dianamay Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 OK so having thought agood idea was buying a finished hull including engine installed, batteries, spray foamed, ballasted,floored, and basic DC wiring ( use to AC mains but DC`s different!!) we`re about to take delivery to a local spot (following previous advice). Now we`re getting nervous. We`ve decided on the layout read as much as our aged brains will absorb regarding fittout but would like some advice regarding the actual practical point to start. Whilst new build house builders we`ve a good deal of hands on skills (well we think so!!!) but this is a canal boat and not the same. Where did you start and if doing it again would you start differently. I realize this is a big "ask" and some might think a bit cheeky but we`re not that proud not to listen to experience. Basic list would help so that we can get our heads around that before asking for more help on a particular point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 When we fitted out the Thames hire cruisers the one thing we did that was "different" to most was to plan for but not install the plumbing and wiring until the majors parts of the fit out were complete. This ensured that we could always get at and if needed remove/replace those items. However it sounds as if its about late for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
manxmike Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 I agree with Tony, make sure you can access the wiring and plumbing. Mine is an old boat and neither are accessible without stripping out sections of the fittings - nightmare! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul C Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Is it painted? If not, I'd start with that - the primer is probably porous and the longer its left without a topcoat, the worse it will get. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 (edited) If fitting out 'on land' level the boat to the 'angle' it will be when afloat, then fit out as if you were on the water. If fitting out on the water - DO NOT attempt to use a spirit level, what is straight with a spirit level will look hopelessly 'out' when viewed by the Mk1 Eyeball. Fit out in accordance with what 'looks about right' and remember that on a boat the 'levels' change every few minutes and every day as you move from side to side, move from kitchen to lounge and as the water from your forward water tank becomes waste in your rear holding tank. As your diesel tank empties - more changes. Ensure that you can easily get under the major parts of the floor to move / add ballast - when you have installed your kitchen units, cooker, fridge etc then you will need to be able to lift the floor to re-trim the boat. You may think that a few degrees of 'unlevelness' is not important but wait until you feel as if you are being tipped out of bed or the last of the water won't run down into the plug-hole. Not life threatening, just, 'not right'. Edited February 27, 2016 by Alan de Enfield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Smith Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 I also build new houses and I have almost finished fitting out a 58 footer from a bare shell with just the engine fitted, I have enjoyed doing it and just modified my house building skills to suit, if you need to know things as you go along just ask the many knowledgeable people on here for advice or PM me if you want. Neil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bee Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Is it painted? If not, I'd start with that - the primer is probably porous and the longer its left without a topcoat, the worse it will get. That is good advice, even if you just get a big tin of undercoat then another big tin of gloss and CAREFULLY paint the whole thing to get a good base that will save you lots of work later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaysider Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 (edited) That is good advice, even if you just get a big tin of undercoat then another big tin of gloss and CAREFULLY paint the whole thing to get a good base that will save you lots of work later. This is our plan too - as soon as we get hold of the boat, We're either going to bite the bullet to it fully or get a good undercoat on it. I hate seeing half fitted out boats for years on end - in my mind, the steel is the biggest investment and to leave it in primer - which practically absorbs water, is bonkers... Edited February 27, 2016 by Quaysider Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BargeeSpud Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Is it painted? If not, I'd start with that - the primer is probably porous and the longer its left without a topcoat, the worse it will get. That will depend on the primer, if its something like a 2 pack, it will last much longer than a standard primer as it doesn't break down for a laugh like an ordinary primer. My Colecraft sailaway was painted with a Hempledur 2 pack primer which will not break down for a long time, not sure of the guarantee period, but I believe there is one. I'd suggest trying to find out what type of primer is on this boat & if it is a 2 pack product, then depending on the manufacturer's specs, painting it now might not be a priority & be one thing less to worry about. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Off-the-wall suggestion Get some big, old cardboard boxes. Fold them out flat and use them to mock up where the bulkheads will go in the boat. You will get a better idea of how big/small a space you are creating with each wall Richard 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Athy Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Off-the-wall suggestion Get some big, old cardboard boxes. Fold them out flat and use them to mock up where the bulkheads will go in the boat. You will get a better idea of how big/small a space you are creating with each wall Richard My first thought when I read this was "thinking outside the box", and believe it or not I did NOT mean it as a pun. It sounds an excellent idea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaysider Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Off-the-wall suggestion Get some big, old cardboard boxes. Fold them out flat and use them to mock up where the bulkheads will go in the boat. You will get a better idea of how big/small a space you are creating with each wall Richard We've done that too Richard... we mocked up the saloon and galley in our lounge with boxes and "practised" sitting in place to watch telly - the cats thought we'd gone bonkers lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 the cats thought we'd gone bonkers I don't believe that for a moment. There's nothing a cat likes more than a cardboard box Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quaysider Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 lol - they enjoyed the experience and hid in the boxes I grant you but for the first 5 mins or so, they just watched from the top of their scratching post looking bemused. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smileypete Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 (edited) Plenty of technical knowledge on here, people can be a little opinionated on choices (eg pumpout vs cassette ) Maybe try sending a PM to 'Ally' who has some very good commercial boat building/fitting experience, she may be able give extensive design help - for a reasonable fee. cheers, Pete. ~smpt~ Edited February 27, 2016 by smileypete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 The small bit of advice I'd offer is make sure there is still good and easy access to all the technical stuff when the fit-out is finished. Water pump, accumulator, batteries, wiring centres, inverter, battery charger etc all need occasional maintenance access. If they are in the back of cupboards, under floors etc the maintenance turns into a right bind. Even having to empty all the stuff from the cupboard under the sink to get at, say, the gas system pressure test nipple is a drag. Make sure everything like that is at the FRONT of cupboards, not behind everything and certainly not behind panels fixed with screws. Oh, and fit a Smartgauge so you know the condition of your batteries, can look after them and not knacker them immediately for lack of knowing their charge status. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob-M Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 (edited) Definitely agree with the comments about having access to everything, I have a set of batteries that are a pain to access as there isn't physical space so I replaced them with sealed batteries when they needed replacing. I also have a shower pump that is under the floor and very difficult to access so currently paying to have that relocated in a more accessible place. Sometimes you might think that it will be just a couple of things that require moving to access something but when you have to empty a complete cupboard to get to your water pump so suddenly realise how little space there is to put things when emptying the cupboard and how a little job becomes a major pain in the arse. Edit: Correct typo as highlighted by MTB. Edited February 27, 2016 by Rob-M Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MtB Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Defiantly agree with the comments about having access to everything, I have a set of batteries that are a pain to access as there isn't physical space so I replaced them with sealed batteries when they needed replacing. I also have a shower pump that is under the floor and very difficult to access so currently paying to have that relocated in a more accessible place. Sometimes you might think that it will be just a couple of things that require moving to access something but when you have to empty a complete cupboard to get to your water pump so suddenly realise how little space there is to put things when emptying the cupboard and how a little job becomes a major pain in the arse. Swerving off topic a sec, did you mean to type "defiantly" or is it a mis-type for "definitely"? I see "defiantly" used so often these days in situations when I'd write "definitely", Im beginning to wonder if this is an example of a word's meaning changing from common usage. Totally agree with you about the shower waster pump. Prone to failure and often fitted under fixed-down floors. Daft! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob-M Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Swerving off topic a sec, did you mean to type "defiantly" or is it a mis-type for "definitely"? I see "defiantly" used so often these days in situations when I'd write "definitely", Im beginning to wonder if this is an example of a word's meaning changing from common usage. Totally agree with you about the shower waster pump. Prone to failure and often fitted under fixed-down floors. Daft! It was a typo, now corrected. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 I saw a chap fitting out his shell a while back. He was using tongue and groove cherry at a 45 degree angle on the walls above the gunwales. He entirely lined the sides from back to front and THEN decided where to put the bulkheads. Because he had uninterrupted sides he could put them anywhere. Seemed like a good idea to me but of course no help if you're intending slab sides (veneered ply, paint, whatever). Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BargeeSpud Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 I saw a chap fitting out his shell a while back. He was using tongue and groove cherry at a 45 degree angle on the walls above the gunwales. He entirely lined the sides from back to front and THEN decided where to put the bulkheads. Because he had uninterrupted sides he could put them anywhere. Seemed like a good idea to me but of course no help if you're intending slab sides (veneered ply, paint, whatever). Tony With all due respect, your last sentence is complete cobra's mate. I fitted out my shell with "slab sides" & it made no difference to my ability to place bulkheads where ever I liked. If you know how to fit bulkheads, what you fit them up against is irrelevant, I fitted solid & hollow bulkheads with no issues at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joe Bourke Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 OK so having thought agood idea was buying a finished hull including engine installed, batteries, spray foamed, ballasted,floored, and basic DC wiring ( use to AC mains but DC`s different!!) we`re about to take delivery to a local spot (following previous advice). Now we`re getting nervous. We`ve decided on the layout read as much as our aged brains will absorb regarding fittout but would like some advice regarding the actual practical point to start. Whilst new build house builders we`ve a good deal of hands on skills (well we think so!!!) but this is a canal boat and not the same. Where did you start and if doing it again would you start differently. I realize this is a big "ask" and some might think a bit cheeky but we`re not that proud not to listen to experience. Basic list would help so that we can get our heads around that before asking for more help on a particular point. Messaged you Dianamay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 With all due respect, your last sentence is complete cobra's mate. I fitted out my shell with "slab sides" & it made no difference to my ability to place bulkheads where ever I liked. If you know how to fit bulkheads, what you fit them up against is irrelevant, I fitted solid & hollow bulkheads with no issues at all. What happens when you want to fit a bulkhead say 4" away from a join? That'd look 'orrible. Tony Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dianamay Posted February 27, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Once again you`ve come up trumps with some excellent advice-especially accessibility. To expand further with more information the boat is only wired with DC tails awaiting our lining out. It has been spray foamed and sits in the yards workshop where it was due by the yard to complete as a finished vessel for sale. It is due to be 2 pack sprayed next weekend. The engine, prop, bow thruster, ballasting and basic flooring was installed at my request as I felt that was better left to the experts. We have decided on a pump out toilet. Please keep the advice coming no matter how trivial it may seem to others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bod Posted February 27, 2016 Report Share Posted February 27, 2016 Start fitting out at the end of boat furthest from the biggest door. Bod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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