Stopping sinking.

[Arthur Marshall]

Just discovered a (small - about 1/8 inch) hole in the boat in the engine bay (cruiser stern). Checked the other sinking boat thread and see people have recommended "Milliput" epoxy putty - I've used the only stuf I had, which was Plastic Padding Marine Epoxy filler but I'm not convinced it's going to set properly underwater - anyone know if it'll be ok, or should i add some milliput to the mix? It's got to get through the Harecastle without sinking on saturday to get to the yard for mending.

[FadeToScarlet]

Just discovered a (small - about 1/8 inch) hole in the boat in the engine bay (cruiser stern). Checked the other sinking boat thread and see people have recommended "Milliput" epoxy putty - I've used the only stuf I had, which was Plastic Padding Marine Epoxy filler but I'm not convinced it's going to set properly underwater - anyone know if it'll be ok, or should i add some milliput to the mix? It's got to get through the Harecastle without sinking on saturday to get to the yard for mending.

 

I'd be inclined to put something over the top as well, like a plank of wood smeared in stern gland grease, with a 56lb weight or similar on top. And have a bilge pump on hand, and a manual one, for going through the tunnel.

 

Having filled an engine bay up with water level with the propshaft from a leaking weedhatch when transiting a tunnel, I can say it's a very scary experience.

[Jess--]

gut reaction says that if you have stopped water with any sort of epoxy you should be ok for a while.

 

also a 1/8" hole should be well within the capabilities of the majority of bilge pumps

[p6rob]

Good luck. I've heard that filling the hole with epoxy is a good stop gap repair. Just be careful not to scrape the bottom too much.

I had a similar sized hole in my boat although mine was in the cabin bilge. It lasted a week using the bilge pump, luckily there was some ballast covering the hole so, although it did need pumping out more regularly towards the end oft the week, the water remained well below cabin floor level.

If something has managed to puncture the base plate, expect the whole lot to need replating. I had the boat docked and the hole patched over, but it's only a stop gap while I try and raise the funds for re-bottoming.

 

Rob

[Flyboy]

Just discovered a (small - about 1/8 inch) hole in the boat in the engine bay (cruiser stern). Checked the other sinking boat thread and see people have recommended "Milliput" epoxy putty - I've used the only stuf I had, which was Plastic Padding Marine Epoxy filler but I'm not convinced it's going to set properly underwater - anyone know if it'll be ok, or should i add some milliput to the mix? It's got to get through the Harecastle without sinking on saturday to get to the yard for mending.

If you can get to it easily you could put in a sealed Pop rivet or a self tapping screw with a fibre washer under the head. A piece of tapered wood from the towpath hedge knocked in would probably do the trick.

[richardf]

I've seen a surveyor use a self tapper and rawlplug

[RLWP]

If it is a two part epoxy, it will definitely set. This is a chemical reaction between the two parts you mixed together, no air is required and the parts are not soluble

 

Richard

[bizzard]

Round tapered plugs can be made or are made automatically when you forget to cap of the tapered plastic spout on tubes of mastic. Silicon, Marineflex ect and it cures and sets in the spout. This can be gently weedled out ''probed and pushed out from the small end'', and your left with a beautiful universal, rubbery, flexible tapered plug ideal for plugging a variety of sized holes within its capacity. So don't chuck away clogged up mastic tube spouts, save them just in case.

[Arthur Marshall]

Thanks all. Shall only get really depresssed when it's out of the water and we can see how bad the rest of the bottom is...

[Tony Brooks]

Round tapered plugs can be made or are made automatically when you forget to cap of the tapered plastic spout on tubes of mastic. Silicon, Marineflex ect and it cures and sets in the spout. This can be gently weedled out ''probed and pushed out from the small end'', and your left with a beautiful universal, rubbery, flexible tapered plug ideal for plugging a variety of sized holes within its capacity. So don't chuck away clogged up mastic tube spouts, save them just in case.

 

 

Wot - no mention of pot menders

[bizzard]

 

 

Wot - no mention of pot menders

I don't think you can get the Umbrella type anymore, the ones like the crews of WW2 Sunderland flying boats used to plug bullet holes in the hull after they'd been shot up. The mushroom type tubeless tyre puncture repair patches are a possibility though.

[Capt Ahab]

Round tapered plugs can be made or are made automatically when you forget to cap of the tapered plastic spout on tubes of mastic. Silicon, Marineflex ect and it cures and sets in the spout. This can be gently weedled out ''probed and pushed out from the small end'', and your left with a beautiful universal, rubbery, flexible tapered plug ideal for plugging a variety of sized holes within its capacity. So don't chuck away clogged up mastic tube spouts, save them just in case.

What a great idea - what do you suggest for errant rivet heads?

[bizzard]

What a great idea - what do you suggest for errant rivet heads?

Where do these Errant rivet heads hang out, Pop rivet festivals ?

[blackrose]

Thanks all. Shall only get really depresssed when it's out of the water and we can see how bad the rest of the bottom is...

Could be wrong but I'm afraid I can't help thinking if you've got one hole, there'll be plenty of other thin bits.

Edited August 17, 2015 by blackrose

[MtB]

Could be wrong but I'm afraid I can't help thinking if you've got one hole, there'll be plenty of other thin bits.

 

Agreed.

 

There might already be a number of other self-tapping screws etc. bunging up previous holes.

[jenevers]

Round tapered plugs can be made or are made automatically when you forget to cap of the tapered plastic spout on tubes of mastic. Silicon, Marineflex ect and it cures and sets in the spout. This can be gently weedled out ''probed and pushed out from the small end'', and your left with a beautiful universal, rubbery, flexible tapered plug ideal for plugging a variety of sized holes within its capacity. So don't chuck away clogged up mastic tube spouts, save them just in case.

Brilliant suggestion. I'll keep mine in future!

The possible trouble with using a wooden tapered plug on unsound metal is that when you tap it into the hole you can end up dislodging the surrounding thin metal thus creating a bigger hole!!!!!!!!

I'd be inclined to put something over the top as well, like a plank of wood smeared in stern gland grease, with a 56lb weight or similar on top. .

Agreed but I'd place a folded rag plastered with stern grease between the plank and hull to fill/seal any small gap.

[Alan de Enfield]

Every boat should have a tub of this in its tool kit.

 

£25 from any good chandlery

 

Example : http://www.force4.co.uk/force-4-stay-afloat-emergency-sealant.html?gclid=Cj0KEQjwr8uuBRCcg6-s-4TrmIsBEiQAN1TdEecoJ_WriTUFNZ1mkqWC-wIXby4rgc7Hn73rS33FBXgaAmC28P8HAQ#.VdLY6I3H9Ms

 

See the video :-

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvorHXLZbIQ

[bizzard]

 

Agreed.

 

There might already be a number of other self-tapping screws etc. bunging up previous holes.

If there are, they should be audible.

Brilliant suggestion. I'll keep mine in future!

The possible trouble with using a wooden tapered plug on unsound metal is that when you tap it into the hole you can end up dislodging the surrounding thin metal thus creating a bigger hole!!!!!!!!

 

Agreed but I'd place a folded rag plastered with stern grease between the plank and hull to fill/seal any small gap.

Yes the mastic tube spout plugs will key itself softly into the hole without enlarging it.

[Tony Dunkley]

The possible trouble with using a wooden tapered plug on unsound metal is that when you tap it into the hole you can end up dislodging the surrounding thin metal thus creating a bigger hole!!!!!!!!

 

That is frequently what happens when you knock a wooden peg into leak, but in fact it's a good thing when it does happen, because the peg is then in a hole in which the metal on the edge of the hole will be stronger, so the peg, or a bigger one, can be knocked in more firmly.

On occasions when the hole has very thin metal left round the edges and is irregularly shaped, it's necessary to drive a tapered steel punch or bar in to enlarge and thicken the edges of the existing hole before knocking in a peg.

If the peg is made from dry close grained softwood it will rapidly swell and seal off any slight remaining leakage. If repairs cannot be carried out immediately, for instance if the boat must remain in service or a dock isn't available, then a well made cement box of a suitable size over the peg will make a temporary repair that will last for months, or even years, if necessary.

Over the years I've continued operating, and loaded, several different vessels with this type of temporary/emergency repair, from narrowboats to a worn out Sheffield size barge with a bottom like a colander and a 420 ton tanker with a hole in the engineroom getting on for 7' below the LWL and almost big enough to get your finger into.

Edited August 18, 2015 by Tony Dunkley