Jess--

Unfortunately Tom I think you may struggle to find anything. most of the boats with a known history tend to be former working boats where their history can be traced through company records (loading records, tolls paid, health inspections etc) generally newer boats (built as leisure craft) aren't as well known and very few records are kept. the upshot is that unless a boat has a famous (or infamous) owner or somehow gains a reputation (such as the camouflage boat a few years back) nobody really keeps track of where it is / was or who was on it or owned it.

I know of one person that built an open fire surrounded by storage heater bricks (inside a layer of fire bricks) they used to set a small fire that roared away in about 2 hours and then went out but 8 hours later you would still be sweating from the heat coming off the bricks (by the next morning water flicked on the bricks would steam but not hiss)

for normal cruising we have 2 centre lines (one each side to save having to flick over mushroom vents etc) these are long enough to reach the back of the cabin roof so you can step off with a rope in hand (but short enough that they can never reach the prop) for thames locks we have a much longer rope (probably 2 x boat length) that can be put on but in practice we have needed it maybe 4 times in the last 3 years

paddle wheel instead of a prop

I'll up that to £55 if you can deliver it We are in desperate need of some dredging, postcode for delivery is SW1A 0AA

not a new boat, just about 30 years old now so I'm not too worried about a shaft seal failing

I changed the oil on my perfectly working prm150 after completely ignoring it since I bought the boat (about 3 years) of course 6 hours running later it decided to spring a leak (selector shaft) and dumped all the nice fresh oil into the bilge leaving me with no drive.

Don't stick a sack over your tunnel light (apart from looking stupid you could melt the sack), your led lights will give a large enough load If your charger drops into float at 3A and you want it to switch at 1A you only need a constant 2A load (a constant 3A load would prevent the charger from switching at all)

I would argue that council tax is a tax ON property and the occupation of that property. When I had properties in manchester they were charged for as follows... Empty & unfurnished = Full council tax Empty & furnished = half council tax Occupied by one adult = half council tax Occupied by more than one adult (same household) = full council tax Occupied by more than one adult (different household / HMO) = full council tax + 25% per extra household (we had one property that was liable for 200% council tax at times)

I've seen what appear to be identical relays where one was labelled up as 240VAC and the other as 24.0VAC

is there anything connected to the inverter? phone charger, tv turned off, fridge light not turning off with door closed etc etc your biggest power draw will be the inverter (even with nothing running from it) but even something small and overlooked could account for your power usage.

I assumed that you had built it from proper meccano not the rubbish plastic stuff

I use one of these for sneaking into woods (ok not really sneaking) makes short work of most of what I grab, just takes a bit of getting used to with the majority of the cutting being done on the back stroke

does beg the question of how do you charge the battery that runs the motor (or indeed the battery that runs everything else)

you might improve things further in a poor signal area if you used plastic to hang it rather than metal