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Enclosed bow


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5 hours ago, ditchcrawler said:

Use the pole at the bows when the bow thruster battery is flat 

Given that my BT runs off the main 48V battery that pushes the boat along, if there's no power for the BT this would be the least of my worries... 😉

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20 hours ago, IanD said:

Running along the roof is easy on mine too, since it's not covered with obstructions like dog/pigeon boxes, chimneys, flower baskets, water cans/mops, gangplanks, boathooks, long shafts, coal, wood, wheelbarrow, bicycle, traffic cones... 😉

roof.jpg

May I ask where the top level ventilation is. I know it is now not mandatory for the BSS 

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9 minutes ago, dave moore said:

I loathe cluttered cabin tops. Other than water cans and mop at the stern then moveable plank and long shaft holder, it was entirely clear.


Agreed. That’s about all I have on the roof of Vulpes, minus the water can even.
 

But there’s still not much clear space on top 🤔

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10 hours ago, Captain Pegg said:

As for the handrails though I’ve never had any problem with a ‘box’ section. 

 

I've also never had a problem with my integral handrails, however if one is going to lose grip of a wet handrail and fall in then it has to be said that's the kind one would lose grip of. 

 

I have a ladder at the bow so if I need to get there in a hurry I'd do the old up & over rather than shimmying down the gunwale or going through the boat. On my boat that's the quickest way and potentially saves messing about with doors and the heavy sliding hatch.

 

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30 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

I've also never had a problem with my integral handrails, however if one is going to lose grip of a wet handrail and fall in then it has to be said that's the kind one would lose grip of. 

 

I have a ladder at the bow so if I need to get there in a hurry I'd do the old up & over rather than shimmying down the gunwale or going through the boat. On my boat that's the quickest way and potentially saves messing about with doors and the heavy sliding hatch.

 

 

I've done the same on occasion, it's quick and easy to get onto the roof at the stern by using the seats as a step and get back down at the bows using the bow cabin, no ladder needed.

 

Which is why all these areas -- including the roof where there are no solar panels -- have non-slip paint applied. It might not look as pretty and shiny as gloss but it's a damn sight safer, especially when wet... 😉

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31 minutes ago, IanD said:

 

I've done the same on occasion, it's quick and easy to get onto the roof at the stern by using the seats as a step and get back down at the bows using the bow cabin, no ladder needed.

 

Which is why all these areas -- including the roof where there are no solar panels -- have non-slip paint applied. It might not look as pretty and shiny as gloss but it's a damn sight safer, especially when wet... 😉

Doesn't look much room for none slip paint on the picture posted. How slippy are the solar panels. Do you do a John Cleese silly walk to span them. Just asking for a friend. 😉

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5 minutes ago, Jon57 said:

Doesn't look much room for none slip paint on the picture posted. How slippy are the solar panels. Do you do a John Cleese silly walk to span them. Just asking for a friend. 😉

The solar panels are quite grippy to walk on, the surface is ETFE with small "bobbles" on it, not smooth. You can walk on them just like a normal non-slip roof. Like these:

 

https://www.photonicuniverse.com/en/catalog/full/438-160W-Black-Reinforced-semi-flexible-solar-panel-with-round-rear-junction-box-and-3m-cable-with-durable-ETFE-coating.html

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28 minutes ago, IanD said:

The solar panels are quite grippy to walk on, the surface is ETFE with small "bobbles" on it, not smooth. You can walk on them just like a normal non-slip roof. Like these:

 

https://www.photonicuniverse.com/en/catalog/full/438-160W-Black-Reinforced-semi-flexible-solar-panel-with-round-rear-junction-box-and-3m-cable-with-durable-ETFE-coating.html

Can see from the link that they are less prone to cracking /delamination. But not anything obout anti slip. My experience even on antislip painted surfaces in wet and freezing condition it's still a bit dodgy. Wouldn't want to be on a roof of any discription without a sound clear safe as can be walkway to the bow. Just my opinion others are available. 😉

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20 hours ago, IanD said:

Well I (and other people) have gone along the gunwales plenty of times -- including in the wet -- and managed to hold on to those non-handrails quite easily and securely. Maybe we all had hands adapted from geckoes feet or something similar... 😉

 

Mine have a lip extending over the the inner edge, making it much easier to grip them. This arrangement is a vast improvement over the square profiled ones on the two shareboats that I had.

 

I once witnessed someone slip off the gunwales on a boat fitted with the more traditional raised roof mounted handrails. They broke their wrist on the hard edge between cabin top and side.

 

There is no ideal design. You pays your money and takes your choice.

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4 minutes ago, Jon57 said:

Can see from the link that they are less prone to cracking /delamination. But not anything obout anti slip. My experience even on antislip painted surfaces in wet and freezing condition it's still a bit dodgy. Wouldn't want to be on a roof of any discription without a sound clear safe as can be walkway to the bow. Just my opinion others are available. 😉

Walking on a boat roof isn't the safest thing in the world, but occasionally you need to do it. I've walked on the solar panels (and the antislip paint sections) when wet and they're both fine -- though I nearly came a cropper on the bow locker hatch which is gloss paint, which really showed up the difference... 😞

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Most common reason for me walking on the top is to use the boat as a stepping stone to get from one side of a narrow lock to the other as boat rises or lowers,

 

 

1 hour ago, IanD said:

The solar panels are quite grippy to walk on, the surface is ETFE

 

mine are the same with a hardened surface but because there’s always likely to be stones or grit on the bottom of my boots I avoid walking on the panels

@ £300 a panel Id like them to last. 

 

 

 

49 minutes ago, cuthound said:

There is no ideal design. You pays your money and takes your choice.

 Which ever hand rails one choose, they’re best not polished 🤡

Edited by beerbeerbeerbeerbeer
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1 minute ago, beerbeerbeerbeerbeer said:

Most common reason for me walking on the top is to use the boat as a stepping stone to get from one side of a narrow lock to the other as boat rises or lowers,

 

mine are the same with a hardened surface but because there’s always likely to be stones or grit on the bottom of my boots I avoid walking on the panels

@ £300 a panel Id like them to last. 

 

 Which ever one chooses, they’re best not polished 🤡

 

Like I said, it's not something I'd do as a matter of course, only occasionally when there's no other option -- like in a narrow lock where you need to get to the lock ladder.

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11 minutes ago, magnetman said:

That is a large surface area to drain. Heavy rain must be interesting.

 

 

That's why there's the cross-rail to catch the water as it flows towards the stern (so it doesn't end up on the rear deck), with recesses down the cabin sides to drain the water down to the gunwale so it doesn't stain them 🙂

 

 

drains.jpg

Edited by IanD
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Just now, beerbeerbeerbeerbeer said:

Where possible, I’ve developed the habit of pulling the stern to the foot of the ladder when going down a lock and then simply stepping straight on to where I need to be. 
 

 

Which obviously works if that's where the ladder is, but not if it isn't...

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Just now, IanD said:

 

Which obviously works if that's where the ladder is, but not if it isn't...

Although sometimes quoting you my comments are to people in general and are not a critique aimed at you.  I now avoid getting in to discussion with you because of you’re argumentative nature 

 

 

but if you’d like me to explain?

firstly I said “where possible”

and secondly I said I pull the boat so the stern is at the foot of the ladder, 

don’t know how that’s hard to understand 

 

it’s simply something I do if it’s going to prove an easier solution to walking the roof,

sometimes I’ll pull the boat out the boat of a lock to avoid using a ladder. 
 

my comments will not necessarily apply to yourself for you always have a crew , my comments are more of a ‘tip sharing’ nature, especially for those recently taken up single handing a boat. 

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8 minutes ago, beerbeerbeerbeerbeer said:

Although sometimes quoting you my comments are to people in general and are not a critique aimed at you.  I now avoid getting in to discussion with you because of you’re argumentative nature 

 

 

but if you’d like me to explain?

firstly I said “where possible”

and secondly I said I pull the boat so the stern is at the foot of the ladder, 

don’t know how that’s hard to understand 

 

it’s simply something I do if it’s going to prove an easier solution to walking the roof,

sometimes I’ll pull the boat out the boat of a lock to avoid using a ladder. 
 

my comments will not necessarily apply to yourself for you always have a crew , my comments are more of a ‘tip sharing’ nature, especially for those recently taken up single handing a boat. 


That’s one reason I also sometimes choose not to directly quote. Ultimately all posts are for general consumption.

 

One of the most useful features I have in Vulpes is a foot step inside the hatches. It makes getting to the roof very easy. I’m not a big fan of lock ladders and do prefer to go via the roof simply to reduce the amount of climbing on the ladder.

 

I know other folk will shimmy along the gunwale between the boat and the lock wall. That always looks the least safe option to me.

 

Best of all is to step off (with a line if needed) below the lock and let the boat glide in unattended. Of course that’s not possible everywhere.

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Yes a folding step inside the hatch is a very nice thing to have.

 

As for ladders avoid if possible. Not always easy but bowhauling the boat into the lock is very rewarding. I used to particularly like doing this with the old 72ft horseboat. Long cotton rope. Be the horse.

 

Probably not an option these days with the motorway madness of other boaters in a hurry.

 

Not done any narrow canalling since 2008.

 

 

Edited by magnetman
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23 minutes ago, beerbeerbeerbeerbeer said:

Although sometimes quoting you my comments are to people in general and are not a critique aimed at you.  I now avoid getting in to discussion with you because of you’re argumentative nature 

 

 

but if you’d like me to explain?

firstly I said “where possible”

and secondly I said I pull the boat so the stern is at the foot of the ladder, 

don’t know how that’s hard to understand 

 

it’s simply something I do if it’s going to prove an easier solution to walking the roof,

sometimes I’ll pull the boat out the boat of a lock to avoid using a ladder. 
 

my comments will not necessarily apply to yourself for you always have a crew , my comments are more of a ‘tip sharing’ nature, especially for those recently taken up single handing a boat. 

Sorry, but you're the one spoiling for an argument here -- all I said was that pulling the boat so the stern was next to the ladder only works if that can be done, which is not always possible, and if not then walking along the roof is safer in a narrow lock than walking along the gunwale. What's your beef with that?

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22 hours ago, Captain Pegg said:

In what circumstances do folk need to access the bow other than when the boat is alongside?

 

The only time I do that is to operate a swing bridge single handed. I know some folk like to put the boat into the jaws of a lock when descending.

Very rarely.  Far more common for me is when I approach a low bridge and realise quite late that I need to remove the chimney.  My chimney is in the middle of the boat, so going down the gunwales is the sensible option.

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49 minutes ago, IanD said:

 

That's why there's the cross-rail to catch the water as it flows towards the stern (so it doesn't end up on the rear deck), with recesses down the cabin sides to drain the water down to the gunwale so it doesn't stain them 🙂

 

 

drains.jpg

Is that Epoxy 2 pack paint on the cabin sides.

I am just wondering if it is not then in a few years time where the paint will lift and rust will form is going to be in the corners of that vertical run off. Which is going to be hard to rub down and repaint 

Didn't know J Wilson used them, I knew Barry Hawkins did and R W Davies

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1 minute ago, Tonka said:

Is that Epoxy 2 pack paint on the cabin sides.

I am just wondering if it is not then in a few years time where the paint will lift and rust will form is going to be in the corners of that vertical run off. Which is going to be hard to rub down and repaint 

Didn't know J Wilson used them, I knew Barry Hawkins did and R W Davies

Yes 🙂

 

(and it was Tim Tyler who built the hull, not JW...)

Edited by IanD
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