Dave .Morialta Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 So as we are not going anywhere soon i am thinking of removing windows and re-sealing them we a couple of small leaks what sealer do i use ????? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Hurley Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 Use Butyl tape that way you can get the frames out again if you need to. Sikaflex or similar will need to be cut out. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kendorr Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marine-Neoprene-Seal-Hatch-Tape-Black/222972080318?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144 Width of 15mm, thickness of 6mm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quattrodave Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 For hull to frame seal I've used both Butyl tape and closed cell foam tape, personally I found the closed cell foam tape to work better... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Onewheeler Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 5 hours ago, Kendorr said: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Marine-Neoprene-Seal-Hatch-Tape-Black/222972080318?_trksid=p2485497.m4902.l9144 Width of 15mm, thickness of 6mm 12 mm x 3 mm for channelglaze according to their helpful lady. Looks about right. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kendorr Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 26 minutes ago, Onewheeler said: 12 mm x 3 mm for channelglaze according to their helpful lady. Looks about right. Fitted my new windows on a new shell with 15 x 3, but when I re-fitted old windows on Halcyon I used 6mm which helped take up the undulations in both the frames and the sides. The only problem I had was getting long enough rivets to compress the tape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy D'arth Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 I shy away from rivets, prefer stainless machine screws into tapped holes. I find pulling rivets compresses the seal too much locally, screws can be progressively tightened. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave .Morialta Posted April 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 I have been told to use arborsyl as it doesn't stick or set hard anyone used it before? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicknorman Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 I re-sealed some of our windows with arboseal. It is very tacky, very black and slightly water soluble. And very messy. Didn’t get on well with it, partly because it never sets at all and thus gets squeezed out over time. I switched to 3mm closed cell foam, with a lick of sikaflex on the outside edge just for neatness. Much better! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave .Morialta Posted April 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 Did you stick foam to aperture or window frame ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy D'arth Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 13 minutes ago, Dave .Morialta said: I have been told to use arborsyl as it doesn't stick or set hard anyone used it before? I used it when fitting Houdinis, it came with the hatches. Its very messy, ultra sticky and stringy. It takes years to set so you have to be careful tightening down to avoid squeezing it all out everywhere. Having said all that, it does not leak so suppose its good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicknorman Posted April 11, 2020 Report Share Posted April 11, 2020 29 minutes ago, Dave .Morialta said: Did you stick foam to aperture or window frame ? Foam to aperture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave .Morialta Posted April 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 So when using the Neoprene did you use any type of sealant or just the tape . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicknorman Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 10 minutes ago, Dave .Morialta said: So when using the Neoprene did you use any type of sealant or just the tape . No sealant on the tape, but I did put some sealant round the very outside (I had the tape inset a bit). Mostly because I though having exposed tape wasn’t the best idea, would collect dirt and growths etc. The small amount of sealant around the outside presents a nice looking edge. But my tip for doing that is to mask it off both on the hull and the window, before you add the sealant, otherwise it can get very messy! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 9 minutes ago, nicknorman said: No sealant on the tape, but I did put some sealant round the very outside (I had the tape inset a bit). Mostly because I though having exposed tape wasn’t the best idea, would collect dirt and growths etc. The small amount of sealant around the outside presents a nice looking edge. But my tip for doing that is to mask it off both on the hull and the window, before you add the sealant, otherwise it can get very messy! I need to do that as well but it will probably be full of moss by the time I get back 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
canals are us? Posted April 27, 2020 Report Share Posted April 27, 2020 Thanks, for the product link.? Ordered 6mm x 15mm to reseal my bedroom and kitchen window! Bedroom window terrible. Currently got gorilla clear tape to stop my mattress getting wet! Hope the 20 year old Channel Glaze windows come out in one piece! Mine are screwed in. James. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 My 14 x 15" portholes were sealed by the builder with a PU sealant, but I guess it's difficult to use tape for round windows? I think they used Marineflex. Since they've been leak free for 15 years I'd reseal them with the same stuff if they ever did develop leaks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jen-in-Wellies Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 1 hour ago, blackrose said: I guess it's difficult to use tape for round windows? Pipers used tape for all the windows, including portholes on my boat, so it can be done. No leaks so far in 13 years. Jen Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicknorman Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 3 hours ago, blackrose said: My 14 x 15" portholes were sealed by the builder with a PU sealant, but I guess it's difficult to use tape for round windows? I think they used Marineflex. Since they've been leak free for 15 years I'd reseal them with the same stuff if they ever did develop leaks. I’ve used foam tape for our portholes, it is reasonable easy to take round corners, especially the thin (3mm) stuff. But in your case if it ain’t broke... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
W+T Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 After over 5 years my windows i fitted have been fine with Neoprene tape stuck down with adhesive. these https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=1#14 And the 2 part water proof adhesive in this l;inkj. https://www.sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=1#14 With a little Sikaflex 291i to trim it off. Sikalfex joints in windows, if you use it alone can be removed in the future using a Multitool. Just gaffer tape around the window so not to damage the paint work and cut away. Captain Faffer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave .Morialta Posted April 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 So having read all the advise and watched a lot of videos i am going with Neoprene tape 12mmx3mm and applied to aperture and a small bead of sikalflex around outer edge of window frame applied to the frame before fitting . Does this sound ok everyone ???? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryeland Posted April 28, 2020 Report Share Posted April 28, 2020 I just used tape that was a bit too wide, then ran a knife around the edges before fitting to give a clean edge. No problems in 10 years, and no need to mess around with sealant. I don't have any issue with moss etc growing on it. Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Movin' on Posted April 29, 2020 Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 On 11/04/2020 at 20:12, Dave .Morialta said: it doesn't stick or set hard I have used it very successfully with portholes and prisms - the above is true but both a benefit and a curse - doesn't leak though! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicknorman Posted April 29, 2020 Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 (edited) 10 hours ago, Dave .Morialta said: So having read all the advise and watched a lot of videos i am going with Neoprene tape 12mmx3mm and applied to aperture and a small bead of sikalflex around outer edge of window frame applied to the frame before fitting . Does this sound ok everyone ???? I would put the sikaflex on after fitting. I think it could get very messy doing it before. You can fit the window but not fully tighten the screws so that there is a decent gap to squirt in the sikaflex, using the nozzle uncut or barely cut. Then tighten the screws to compress the foam, sikaflex oozes out and you remove the excess. Edited April 29, 2020 by nicknorman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted April 29, 2020 Report Share Posted April 29, 2020 (edited) If you're having to use sikaflex with the tape wouldn't that indicate that the tape doesn't work? ? Seriously though, doesn't using sikaflex with the tape negate the benefit of using tape (the benefit being not having to use sikaflex!) Edited April 29, 2020 by blackrose Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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