Quattrodave

I have a 1988 audi 200 quattro with 728000 miles on the clock, original engine and gearbox, ok there has been a few repairs over its life but it still goes like a scaleded cat... fuel consumption is pretty poor tho 😞

Fair point, TBH most of the that sort of work I do is in a workshop not wedged in an engine bay. The less protruding the bolt is, the better. Generally I'd cut it off flush before welding. Never done a brass one, I see no reason why I couldn't braze a brass nut on, done a few aluminium ones over the years tho...

I've never had any luck with easy-outs. Best way I've every found requires a mig welder. Put a nut on top of the broken stud where the inside of the nut closely matches the stud. Fill it with weld, essentially welding the nut to the broken stud, spray with penetrating oil to cool it, then just wind it out. The rapid heating and cooling usually loosens the thread...

I've been mulling this one over for a while, if technology is moving on at the speed it has in the last 20 years I'm rather hoping : 1 solar technology will be more efficient than it is today. 2 battery technology will have higher energy density and faster charge times. 3 thermo electric generators will be more efficient, possibly water temp against air temp? 4 EM Energy harvesting makes it out of the lab (turning radio waves into power). 5 Pezio Electrical harvesting, particularly useful on a boat, especially on a river (turn small movements into power) 6 Electric motor efficiency improvements. 7 wind generators improve in efficiency I'm sort of hoping that most if not all of it pans out and generating a fair amount of free electricity will a pretty simple affair...

Agreed, a damn good move!

1 wire at the fuse panel, but 3 pumps. I'd be looking for a corroded join or splice in the cable, possibly at the pump physically closest to the fuse panel...

Thank you, learn something new every day. And I thought I knew my way around forums 🙄

Err what's VNC? 😊

Have you definitely got more than 1 pump, if so how many? Do you know where they are located, can you get to them? If multiple pumps I would have guessed each one would be fused separately... The reason I ask is most of the setups I've seen, 1 pump providers hot and cold water to multiple taps and / or shower.

Thanks guys, the injectors 'looked' correct, I understand this doesn't really mean much... is there anyone on here able to test them, or any recommendations of who to send them to?

Less holes than most of the skips I've used recently...

IIRC spital means 'hospital'... Don't shoot me down if I'm wrong tho... 🙄

Spent some time on the boat the last few days and got some jobs done. I've checked the valve clearances, set them at 12 thou 0.3mm as per the manual. TBH they were all pretty good, 1 was slightly tight 2 other a little loose. I was going to use the rule of nine, but quickly realised the valve layout was different E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E so wasnt convinced it would work so reverted to the cylinder rocking set the opposite which seemed to work just fine... Re moved the pump top bleed valve cleaned it put it back and re bled, I now have fuel at both pump bleed valves! Engine started easily from cold with 12 to 15 seconds of heat, slightly stumbly At first but after a few mins smoothed out and low sounds pretty good. Still getting white gray smoke. Had a look at the pump timing, the marks are aligned so turned the pump (as you look at the front of the engine) slightly anti clockwise to inject fuel slightly earlier... no difference... Same white / grey smoke I think the camera makes it look far bluer than it is, smells very diesely... I'm beginning to wonder if one of the refurbished injectors isn't right... Anyone able to test them if I send them to you?

Once waterproof I can recomend 'Wet and Forget'. It'll free from moss, mold and mildew.