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Quattrodave

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Hertfordshire
  • Occupation
    IT
  • Boat Name
    Seaquest
  • Boat Location
    Great Ouse

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  1. I'm a little perplexed as to what you're asking?
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  3. Yes, take the brass screws from the brass plate, remove the plate and rhe impeller should pull out. Be careful when installing a new one all the lobes need to be pointing the correct way. Edit. The front plate usually has a pump number on it so you can get rhe correct impeller... Reference the coolant level dropping, you have a leak somewhere. If you can't find a weep check rhe coolant pump shaft... if you have a mitivac you can pressurise the coolant system with out getting it hot!!! It's often easier find a weep when it's cold as it doesn't immediately turn to steam.
  4. I may well be mis understanding this but when you're moving the engine will be either hot or warming up quickly.. the coolant system is a closed loop and should pressurise, you shouldn't really be opening rhe coolant when it's hot....
  5. For sound insulation I use 10mm closed cell foam, on top of that the thickest MLV (mass loaded vinyl) you can afford, then 25mm foil faced foam...
  6. Agree with Tony. Check the raw water pump impler. They wear and fall apart to the point where there is no cooling... I take it you have a wet exhaust, is there plenty of water coming out??
  7. Dependant on the quality of the LED light you may have killed it connecting it up backwards the first time....
  8. LEDs have a positive and a negative... use a test meter to test or in your case just swap the wires around.
  9. It always amazes me how impractical some people are. I seem to have acquired a bit of a name for myself at the marina for repairing things, not that I want to spend my time working on other people's boats but I just can't say no when someone asks for help... a few weeks ago someone came knocking asking if I could help as they're "boat wasn't working". I was a little perplexed by this so asked them to show me. Turned out they meant the engine wouldn't start, to be more accurate it wouldn't turn over. I asked where the isolator was and got a blank look and "I don't know" asked where that battery was, same answer... Got the test meter out, battery dead. Asked where the battery charger was, met with another blank look. Turns out they'd unplugged the shore power as they didn't know what it was and not visited the boat for a few years ?!?!
  10. Perfect, good to know. Yes I'll give them a shout, thank you.
  11. Thank you, I've had a look and yes there does seem to be a bit of a trend! This one has a temp guage the reads accurately, holding about 65 degrees all day long.... Yes, I've seen this before. Had the waterpump refurbished with new impeller, seals and bearings! Ooooh interesting! Where did you source the parts from? Is there anyway of telling if I got a modified head gasket or not? Ah, so they ARE stretch bolts, I did suspect they were...!
  12. Ha! Go you, jammy bugger, I bet your over the moon!!
  13. Thanks guys, Tony: hmmm good thought, might be difficult to seal everything, what sort of pressures would i need to test to? Yes manual specified a sequence first torque setting, second torque setting & final 90 degree. Now here is where its gets a little sketchy, we didn't use new head bolts... The reasoning, genuine suppliers had the top end gasket sets but not head bolts, they we're available to order from Isuzu. The suppliers had them listed as 'head bolts' not 'stretch head bolts' they them selves were surprised at this and couldn't tell me if they were actually stretch bolts or not, they concluded they were not stretch bolts. The last reason was they were asking £28 per bolt!! With a 6 week lead time!!!!! I didn't see any sign of a liner protrusion, unless it's been machined off many years previous. Tracey: yes previous one defiantly did, I do hope this one does too....
  14. The saga continues.... It's done the headgasket again, well I assume it done the headgasket, I have exactly the same symptoms as before huge amounts of air bubbling out of the coolant cap... I'll be taking the head off again in a week or so but any reason it would have failed again so soon?? Genuine gasket set used, head was skimmed, manual removal and tightening sequence follows to the letter, everything was cleaned, checked and double checked on assembly. One thing that's playing on my mind, the manual never mentioned re-torqing the head bolts after x amount of time... many years ago I was taught to torque head bolts, get engine hot, let it cool then re-torque... problem is I can’t remember how you re-torque. Just test the torque on each one, slacken and re-torque, or loosen by a quarter turn and re-torque...??
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