Weed hatch Rubber to metal adhesive

[reg]

Need to replace 7 year old weed hatch Rubber seal. Will be using a cut Aldi rubber mat, which I used last time to great effect, but can't remember what adhesive I used. So.. 

Any recommendations for a water proof, long life, rubber to metal adhesive? Preferably one that you may have experience with. 

Many thanks

[WotEver]

Evostick contact adhesive?  Marineflex?

[reg]

Just to add I am looking at Sikaflex 291i marine (Iunderstand the "i" is important for this usage) as the main contender. Anyone have experience with this? 

Thanks

[Drayke]

Do you need to stick it down, just cut to size then weed hatch should hold it in place when you clamp it down.

[ditchcrawler]

I haven't stuck mine down at all, it seems to cling to the plate quite well

[reg]

Need, and prefer,  to stick it down as it more of a thick gasket which goes around the edge of the plate. 

Having had a failure many years ok, disaster narrowly averted, prefer to do it the way I am comfortable with. Last one has lasted about 11 years without a problem. 

Only needs replacing because I am derusting and Vactanning it. 

Only seeking advice because whilst I think the Sika 291i marine stuff appears, going by the specs,  to be what I need it somewhat hurts to pay full wack for a tube that will only be used to seal, essentially, a gasket I. E nearly a full tube will be wasted. Basically I'm being tight fisted 

Might look into the contact adhesive suggested above , as long as the specs meet my requirements,  because I could then at least retain the adhesive for another day. 

Was really looking for any previous real live uses and recommendations. 

 

 

 

[Timx]

Evostick hard and fast is good stuff , sets like metal, available from halfords, probably a good glue to keep aboard.

[koukouvagia]

I used Puraflex 40 from Toolstation.  Only about four quid and worked perfectly.  Just as good as Sikaflex for this application.

 

[David Schweizer]

I bought a couple of metres of self adhesive weedhatch rubber from Midland Chandlers. It stuck well and I only replaced it once when i decided to repaint the weedhatch.

[Chewbacka]

I went for self adhesive foam strip as when it needs changing a hot air gun should be enough to get it to let go from the flange.  Use a really good adhesive and there is going to be lots of scrapping and swearing to get the surface clean.  I also put a smear of silicone grease on top of the rubber to encourage it not to stick to the lid.  It works better than nothing.

[X Alan W]

32 minutes ago, David Schweizer said:

I bought a couple of metres of self adhesive weedhatch rubber from Midland Chandlers. It stuck well and I only replaced it once when i decided to repaint the weedhatch.

Don't know if "Seals Direct" would have a better range & price

[David Schweizer]

1 hour ago, Chewbacka said:

I went for self adhesive foam strip as when it needs changing a hot air gun should be enough to get it to let go from the flange.  Use a really good adhesive and there is going to be lots of scrapping and swearing to get the surface clean.  I also put a smear of silicone grease on top of the rubber to encourage it not to stick to the lid.  It works better than nothing.

I used talcum powder, a bit messy, but it worked

[David Schweizer]

1 hour ago, X Alan W said:

Don't know if "Seals Direct" would have a better range & price

I have used them in the past, but when I tried them for something suitable for the weed hatch they had some, but would ony sell me a 6 metre roll plus postage, which would have cost about for times as much as a couple of metres from the Chandlers.

[ditchcrawler]

11 hours ago, reg said:

Need, and prefer,  to stick it down as it more of a thick gasket which goes around the edge of the plate. 

Having had a failure many years ok, disaster narrowly averted, prefer to do it the way I am comfortable with. Last one has lasted about 11 years without a problem. 

Only needs replacing because I am derusting and Vactanning it. 

Only seeking advice because whilst I think the Sika 291i marine stuff appears, going by the specs,  to be what I need it somewhat hurts to pay full wack for a tube that will only be used to seal, essentially, a gasket I. E nearly a full tube will be wasted. Basically I'm being tight fisted 

Might look into the contact adhesive suggested above , as long as the specs meet my requirements,  because I could then at least retain the adhesive for another day. 

Was really looking for any previous real live uses and recommendations. 

 

 

 

Why not use a sheet and cover the underside of the lid, then its impossible for it to blow out without splitting the material.

[dmr]

The white self adhesive weed hatch seal that the chandlers sell works very well. I replaced mine last year, just to check for any rust below it. It had been on for at least 9 years, probably more, and was still doing a good job.

I like the idea of a bit of lubricant or powder as it does stick a little bit if not opened for some time.

................Dave

[reg]

OK many thanks for all of the replies. 

I am coming around to using the self adhesive weed hatch seal as it seems to have a few real life recommendations. 

I'm also thinking, because I also need to replace my deck board soon, that I may well run some of the tape around the deck board underside so that it sits over the rim of the drain channel. 

Again thanks for the input, appreciated as always. 

N. B. I'm in search of the semi trad holy grail the dry bilge. 

[wandering snail]

About to use Gorilla Glue on ours. Will report back in a few more years.

[dmr]

1 hour ago, reg said:

OK many thanks for all of the replies. 

I am coming around to using the self adhesive weed hatch seal as it seems to have a few real life recommendations. 

I'm also thinking, because I also need to replace my deck board soon, that I may well run some of the tape around the deck board underside so that it sits over the rim of the drain channel. 

Again thanks for the input, appreciated as always. 

N. B. I'm in search of the semi trad holy grail the dry bilge. 

A little pot under the stern gland to catch any drips, assuming it does not have its own mini-bilge.

But I suspect its water round the deck boards that's your trouble. I know nuffin about semi trads, Im one of those tedious trad stern/back cabin/engine room types, but I did put some thought into getting the front deck lockers dry.

Keeping the drainage channels and tubes clear is essential. My problem was that some water ran round the edge of the boards (lids) and hung on by surface tension or whatever. I got a local sheet metal worker to make up "skins" for the plywood boards from  aluminium sheet. These are folded on the edges and welded on the corners and a little deeper than the wood itself so all water has to fall into the drainage channels. The only issue will be if it rains so hard that water gets in quicker than it can drain out. Minimising the width of the gap should help a bit.

If you have a board that you only lift once in a while then gaffer tape over the gap, it is available in various colours.

...................Dave

[David Schweizer]

11 minutes ago, wandering snail said:

About to use Gorilla Glue on ours. Will report back in a few more years.

Gorilla glue, does just what says on the box, the problem may come when you (or someone else) tries to remove it.

 

[Chewbacka]

7 minutes ago, David Schweizer said:

Gorilla glue, does just what says on the box, the problem may come when you (or someone else) tries to remove it.

 

You will need something like a flap disc in an angle grinder.  

Remember the foam gives the water seal the adhesive is only there to keep it in place when you take the lid off so the tape does not get torn or creased etc.  Hence in my opinion you don't need a high performance adhesive.

Edited July 15, 2017 by Chewbacka

[blackrose]

Marineflex or Stixall. They go off like rubber.

Most contact adhesives lack flexibility.

[PeterDHS]

Bought 2 metres of self adhesive from Seals Direct, probably cheaper than a tube of Sika. Also bought some 'U' section rubber for around the engine hole (cruiser stern)...amazed how much noise and rattle this has eliminated.

[jddevel]

Just reading this and not sure how mine in the sailaway is constructed so this might be a stupid idea/suggestion however is there any reason why a "U shaped lip" round the lid could not be included with a seal in the recess.

[WotEver]

2 hours ago, jddevel said:

Just reading this and not sure how mine in the sailaway is constructed so this might be a stupid idea/suggestion however is there any reason why a "U shaped lip" round the lid could not be included with a seal in the recess.

No reason other than it's a lot more engineering. Usually the lid is nothing more than a sheet of steel. 

[jddevel]

13 minutes ago, WotEver said:

No reason other than it's a lot more engineering. Usually the lid is nothing more than a sheet of steel. 

I was thinking more of a wooden frame attached/fixed to the steel plate. As I said though not at the boat at the moment to look at the possibilities. Realize more maintenance but then that`s what narrowboating is all about from what I see-and money!!!!!!