shot/quill blasting - is DIY possible?

[magnetman]

My barge is getting a bit overly scruffy. I really need to have the cabin top and the sides from gunnels down shotblasted and repainted at some stage. In theory.

 

I don't mind getting down and doing the dirty work myself with a lot of boat maintenance activities. I prefer the DIM approach wherever possible

There are limits to this as I realise some activities need specific training.

 

So can I do shot blasting myself or do I need to get a man/woman in to sort it.

[dave moore]

It's a vile job requiring specialist protective clothing, an air supply to the helmet. I've seen many done, I'd happily pay someone to do it for me. The Norton Canes website used to have a photo of this in action, may still be there.

 

Dave

[davidg]

Short answer: Yes.

 

Talk to Rex Wain at Brinklow Boat Services. He's just done his barge with kit hired from a company at Melbourne (?) near Derby.

[Robbo]

You can use other methods as well such as a rotary scabbler or surface blaster which may be more suitable.

 

http://www.brandontoolhire.co.uk/en/surface-preparation-tool-hire/143-rotary-scabbler.html

 

The scabbler is really good at removing the paint to the metal, you will need to sand the metal afterwards to key.

 

This video shows the scabbler in use - https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=xuWiAeifCw8

 

http://www.brandontoolhire.co.uk/en/surface-preparation-tool-hire/536-surface-blaster.html

 

This is good at removing paint like bitumen as it doesn't heat the surface or get clogged up.

 

Video - https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Lg5jQlfZXjA

 

Both of these methods will be less messy than shot blasting but you'll end up with the same result.

Edited August 3, 2016 by Robbo

[tree monkey]

It's a vile job requiring specialist protective clothing, an air supply to the helmet. I've seen many done, I'd happily pay someone to do it for me. The Norton Canes website used to have a photo of this in action, may still be there.

Dave

I second this, I grit blasted a house and it's a vile horrible job but I'm sure it's possible to do yourself, seal every thing up and then double seal it again and still expect to spend weeks finding the dust and rubbish everywhere

One of the biggest problems is removing the debris from the site afterwards

[BWM]

You can use other methods as well such as a rotary scabbler or surface blaster which may be more suitable.

 

http://www.brandontoolhire.co.uk/en/surface-preparation-tool-hire/143-rotary-scabbler.html

 

The scabbler is really good at removing the paint to the metal, you will need to sand the metal afterwards to key.

 

This video shows the scabbler in use -

 

http://www.brandontoolhire.co.uk/en/surface-preparation-tool-hire/536-surface-blaster.html

 

This is good at removing paint like bitumen as it doesn't heat the surface or get clogged up.

 

Video -

 

Both of these methods will be less messy than shot blasting but you'll end up with the same result.

Is the surface blaster usable for stripping paint, or just bitumen or would it be too coarse? Looks easier to wield than the other one.

[Robbo]

Is the surface blaster usable for stripping paint, or just bitumen or would it be too coarse? Looks easier to wield than the other one.

Yes it can be used for stripping paint, the rubber bits can be purchased for a normal drill if you have small bits to do, but for large areas the tool has 8 of these rubber hammer things!

 

I've not used any of the tools personally, but people here on CWDF have and they both come recommended highly. I think the rotary scabbler is quicker but I'm not sure if it can handle bitumen paint.

[WotEver]

Tip for using the Tercoo Blaster - use virtually no pressure. Just tickle the steel with it and the results are just as fast and you won't lose the tips.

[FadeToScarlet]

Tip for using the Tercoo Blaster - use virtually no pressure. Just tickle the steel with it and the results are just as fast and you won't lose the tips.

And a further tip, don't go near any edges or crevices, leave them for the grinder.

[David Mack]

Some years ago at the Crick show there was a company exhibiting who were demonstrating wet blasting on a BW work flat on the bank. The whole process was very quick, shifted all the paint and rust, and left a surface suitable for painting. They were also recommending a primer that could be applied directly to the damp steel, after you had allowed the free water to drain off, but before it had started to rust again. This primer was apparently suitable for use under hull blacking and topside paint.

 

I can't now remember the name of the blasting company or the primer, but I do remember thinking at the time that the whole process was so much quicker than DIY, that it would surely be worth paying for. Basically you could get the whole boat blasted back to bare metal and primed in 1-2 days.

[Old Son]

Surely if you were going to the trouble of removing paint back to the metal you would use epoxy to repaint not a water tolerant primer and blacking?

[magnetman]

Some years ago at the Crick show there was a company exhibiting who were demonstrating wet blasting on a BW work flat on the bank. The whole process was very quick, shifted all the paint and rust, and left a surface suitable for painting. They were also recommending a primer that could be applied directly to the damp steel, after you had allowed the free water to drain off, but before it had started to rust again. This primer was apparently suitable for use under hull blacking and topside paint.

 

I can't now remember the name of the blasting company or the primer, but I do remember thinking at the time that the whole process was so much quicker than DIY, that it would surely be worth paying for. Basically you could get the whole boat blasted back to bare metal and primed in 1-2 days.

I saw a geyser pressure washing a narrow boat hull with some sort of grit added to the water stream. It was very effective. I think it was called quill blasting but not certain. It was wet which hopefully meant less debris problems.

Surely if you were going to the trouble of removing paint back to the metal you would use epoxy to repaint not a water tolerant primer and blacking?

I'm sceptical about the value of technical paint systems on canal boats which frequently rub the side of locks and canal banks - seems a waste. I'd like to completely clean the hull and repaint with bitumen then completely clean it again at some point in the future etc

[ditchcrawler]

I saw a geyser pressure washing a narrow boat hull with some sort of grit added to the water stream. It was very effective. I think it was called quill blasting but not certain. It was wet which hopefully meant less debris problems.

 

I'm sceptical about the value of technical paint systems on canal boats which frequently rub the side of locks and canal banks - seems a waste. I'd like to completely clean the hull and repaint with bitumen then completely clean it again at some point in the future etc

I do a fare few miles and locks in a year, and when my boat comes out for blacking there is very little paint damage below the water line, above the rubbing stark to the gunwale is a different story

[dave moore]

Which is why painting that area in gloss is a complete waste of time and wrong, to my eyes. Where did the " gloss top bend " thing come from? It wasn't there in the 60s, I think, but was well established by the 80s. Curious....

 

Dave

[RLWP]

Which is why painting that area in gloss is a complete waste of time and wrong, to my eyes. Where did the " gloss top bend " thing come from? It wasn't there in the 60s, I think, but was well established by the 80s. Curious....

 

Dave

 

We blacked over our gloss painted top bend

 

Richard

[dave moore]

Thank you. Common sense prevails!

[Guest]

I did ours in semi-gloss, thereby offending both camps.

[FadeToScarlet]

Where did the " gloss top bend " thing come from?

I blame Waterways...

 

[davidg]

I saw a geyser pressure washing a narrow boat hull with some sort of grit added to the water stream. It was very effective. I think it was called quill blasting but not certain. It was wet which hopefully meant less debris problems.

 

That was the Quill system which is what Rex has just used on his barge as I said. Uses ground glass and is very effective by all accounts

[dave moore]

He was obviously spouting off! Dave

[bargemast]

Here is something I wrote in a previous post about water-blasting.


bargemast, on 25 June 2011 - 10:26 PM,said


Grit (and/or Sand) blasting makes a terrible mess and get everywhere, but it will get rid of all the unwanted paint layers.

I wrote a while ago on another post about what I saw on a yard not far from where I am based, which is much to far for the O.P. I know, but the same procedure may exist in the UK too.

It works with very high water pressure, much higher then a Karcher, at about 2500 Bar, which is 35.000 Lbs, this strips off all the paint without making dust, it's a very clean way of doing a serious job.

Here's one photograph to show what the boat looked like after this treatment.






Peter.

[WotEver]

If these guys can't do it for you I bet they know who can...

http://www.hydroblast.co.uk/

 

Tony

[RLWP]

at about 2500 Bar, which is 35.000 Lbs, this strips off all the paint

 

 

 

It also strips concrete off steel reinforcement - this is what they are using on the elevated motorways in Brum.

 

It will also easily strip clothing and flesh from bone

 

Richard

[WotEver]

These guys appear to be experts on paint stripping: http://www.totalsolutionscleaning.co.uk/Paint-removal

[bargemast]

 

It also strips concrete off steel reinforcement - this is what they are using on the elevated motorways in Brum.

 

It will also easily strip clothing and flesh from bone

 

Richard

 

You are (as usual) absolutely right, the guy that does this water blasting normally earn his living doing concrete demolition jobs, and has lots of work on the airports.

 

He knows how to use his gear without stripping clothing and flesh.

 

I am always most impressed to see how quick the blasting job is done by a professional like him.

 

If I ever want to strip all the paint off, I would prefer to pay to get it done quickly, than fooling around for ages (or longer) trying to do it myself.

 

Peter.