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mayalld

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Nobody's really directed you to the real issue - and that was you 'need' a cogged / toothed belt. The Z section sis a thinner section entirely

Your secondary question was whether you needed an A or B section belt. My favourite site Bearing Boys calls them spAx or spBx -

 

http://www.bearingboys.co.uk/Wedge_Belts-3292-c

 

For a 'normal fan belt' SPAX would be normal - fan belt = waterpump and base engine alternator. If you've got an additional high power alternator then it ought to be a B section - depends on who marinised your engine and what power the alternator had.

Anywhichway the above site gives you the dimensions of the belts.

 

BBs do a postal service at not much cost - if that's of use (no good for CCers...)

 

Did that help?

 

You didn't follow my Simply Bearings link then? I used to use BB but prefer Simply these days

 

Richard

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Lambda sensors can also cause a missfire, particularly if the car is only used for short runs and the engine doesn't warm through thoroughly. Soot builds up on the sensor. A good thrashing in an intermediate gear will often clean it up.

The car doesn't get chance to "soot up"

 

It does a 22 mile round trip every day to get to work and back and then a good run/thrash to Lincoln and back every week.

 

My favourite is a dodgy spark plug or coil pack. They are the original coil packs so hardly surprising when they have done almost 125k miles.

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The wife of one of my work colleagues took her car there for a new battery.

She was told her car needed a "special battery" at a cost of some £130.00.

Luckily she had the presence of mind to call her partner before parting with her cash.

The car that required the "special battery"?

1.6 Ford Mondeo. Rare as hen's teeth, those.....

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Just looked online on the Halford's website and found the same thing.

 

Thought I'd enter the reg of my Triumph Spitfire...

 

"Sorry we can't find this registration"

 

Pick Triumph from the drop down list and Spitfire is not an option. judge.gif

 

They don't know MG BGTs either. They do however sell the oil, filters, an plug etc but you need to know the part reference to find them.

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The car doesn't get chance to "soot up"

 

It does a 22 mile round trip every day to get to work and back and then a good run/thrash to Lincoln and back every week.

 

My favourite is a dodgy spark plug or coil pack. They are the original coil packs so hardly surprising when they have done almost 125k miles.

Quite so. If you watch the engine running with the bonnet up in the pitch blackness dead of night time at 70mph, St Elmo's fire ''HT tracking'' around the naughty plug top and coil maybe observed.

  • Greenie 1
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1. To be fair, it's not just Halfords. Euro Car Parts couldn't supply an air-filter for my BMC 1.8 without a car reg. Sadly, little independant car spares places are becoming very rare. The only one near me now doesn't open to the public, sells online but will open for me if I call ahead.

 

2. The Midget kicks the Spitfire's ass. Always has, always will :-)

 

3. I'm going to Halfords later to buy camping stuff with a voucher.

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Sometimes it isn't a case of being scared but not having the equipment to do the repair.

 

My Nissan has developed an intermitent misfire. The only way to find out what it is a fault is to plug it in!

 

Obviously in your particular case you don't need one, but you can buy code readers quite cheaply - certainly cheaper than most garage visits. The great thing about cars these days is that for at least the basic engine management and emissions, they are all compatible with each other - ie you only need one code reader to cover all cars.

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Top tips:

 

1. Buy two fan belts for the boat. When the one on the engine needs replacing, use the spare you have kept, then you have the luxury of time to find another

2. Check the fan belt regularly for wear. Change it before it snaps.

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.. Mind you the fault code wasn't much use as it relates to pretty much all of the engines ignition system :banghead:

 

Think we will start with the spark plugs and coil packs.:rolleyes:

Surprising that the code isn't more specific. When Jeff's beetle developed a misfire the code said it was the coil pack. Sure enough when I replaced it the misfire disappeared. Simples!

 

Misfires can also be caused by cam or crank position sensors.

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There are a lot of classic car companies that will supply standard parts for the B series engine. Some parts are common between the petrol and diesel, some are not. Things like filters, drive belts, water pumps, oil pumps, gaskets etc are cheaply and easily available.

 

Leacys http://www.leacyclassics.com/

MGBHive http://mgbhive.co.uk/

Midland Sports and Classics http://www.midlandsportsandclassics.co.uk/

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Obviously in your particular case you don't need one, but you can buy code readers quite cheaply - certainly cheaper than most garage visits. The great thing about cars these days is that for at least the basic engine management and emissions, they are all compatible with each other - ie you only need one code reader to cover all cars.

Is there one for my Citroen 2CV

:)

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Obviously in your particular case you don't need one, but you can buy code readers quite cheaply - certainly cheaper than most garage visits. The great thing about cars these days is that for at least the basic engine management and emissions, they are all compatible with each other - ie you only need one code reader to cover all cars.

 

The problem is the commonality of OBD2 codes really is very basic, its only a subset of the actual fault codes a typical car generates and it will only help in a subset of fault scenarios. You really need a manufacturer-specific code reader/diagnostic computer/software, or a good aftermarket one (good ones exist which are cheaper than the manufacturer official one, cover a number of manufacturers, but are still out of reach of the average DIYer being typically £500-2000). An independent garage probably has one of these, and can read codes (which is charged for).

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The problem is the commonality of OBD2 codes really is very basic, its only a subset of the actual fault codes a typical car generates and it will only help in a subset of fault scenarios. You really need a manufacturer-specific code reader/diagnostic computer/software, or a good aftermarket one (good ones exist which are cheaper than the manufacturer official one, cover a number of manufacturers, but are still out of reach of the average DIYer being typically £500-2000). An independent garage probably has one of these, and can read codes (which is charged for).

Yes it's true that there is limited commonality in the codes, however the actual reading of the code is unaffected by this, it is merely the translation of what the code means that can be the problem. So you thus just need a document that tells you the meaning of the code and what to do about it. eBay seems to provide manufacturer's info for many cars - the in-laws have a Micra and I got a manual for that from eBay for under £5 which lists all the codes and maintenance actions.

 

When Jeff got the (new) Beetle I got a Vag-Com which covers all VW, Audi, Skoda cars. I think it was around £150. We sold it recently having had it for 8 years. The only time it went to the dealers was to have a new lambda probe - getting the old one out was too difficult and awkward.

Edited by nicknorman
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The other reason some people take their cars to garages for servicing/inspecting is in order to maintain the manufacturers warranty (where applicable). Whilst its not stipulated that it's done by a franchise dealer it does have to be done by a 'competent' garage, one that is VAT registered and genuine parts need to be used.

 

I have found by ringing around local FIAT dealers for our last two inspections and oil changes I can get the price close to an indy. Yes £125 for an oil change and filter and an 'inspection' is ridiculously expensive but when set in the context of having an expensive warranty claim running into 4 figures rejected it seems like a sensible option.

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The other reason some people take their cars to garages for servicing/inspecting is in order to maintain the manufacturers warranty (where applicable). Whilst its not stipulated that it's done by a franchise dealer it does have to be done by a 'competent' garage, one that is VAT registered and genuine parts need to be used.

 

I have found by ringing around local FIAT dealers for our last two inspections and oil changes I can get the price close to an indy. Yes £125 for an oil change and filter and an 'inspection' is ridiculously expensive but when set in the context of having an expensive warranty claim running into 4 figures rejected it seems like a sensible option.

True, but only relevant if you blow your money in new or nearly new cars!

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True, but only relevant if you blow your money in new or nearly new cars!

 

Correct. It is an issue of you pays your money and takes your choice.

Edited by MJG
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Or a big ball of string will get you out of trouble. Wound round and around V section pulleys several times tightly and tying off with a reef knot,''left over right and right over left''. Multi-V Polly belts would need the appropriate number per groove of separate strings and knots, don't just wind the string continuously round and around higgledy piggledy on these as it'll all get chopped up and flung off instantly in a big mess. For the string to work and be allowed to grip It is important to relieve the alternator pulley from undue strain by turning most things, or everything off, especially electric fridges.

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<snip>

 

"We don't stock fan belts any more"

 

"That seems rather odd for a car spares shop"

 

"no call for them. if you give me your registration number, I can order one for tomorrow"

 

<snip>

That seems reasonable. I had a car for ten years and never changed the belt once, so I can believe there is little demand. Modern ribbed belts are reliable if correctly tensioned. There's no point in a shop having shelves of stock for which there is little demand and if they can get one for tomorrow, that is good service.

A motor factor should be able to identify the necessary belt(s) for a boat engine. My local one certainly can. Prices are generally cheaper than motorists' shops, though I have bought other items cheaper in Halfords than in the motor factor.

 

Edited by mango
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I think the internet has really revolutionised the car spares industry (amongst others of course).

I've just fitted a catalyst and backbox to my Jeep. They arrived at the mighty cost of £130, next day, inc VAT. As a bonus, they actually fitted and have a 3 year warranty.

A few short years ago, a rattling cat would provoke a mighty round of tooth sucking and a huge bill!

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Half the battle in maintaining/repairing cars is the detective work in tracking down and buying the right part, once you know the part that needs replacing. Just because you know it doesn't mean you can communicate it to the seller etc! VW is well served because there is an online parts catalogue at www.vagcat.com . I know Mercedes needs EPS (paid for). I know Peugeot have a similar electronic online parts catalogue but its a pay for service. Not sure on Fiat or others.

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You didn't follow my Simply Bearings link then? I used to use BB but prefer Simply these days

 

Richard

I did your honour, I did.

But old habits die hard - and I knew my way around BBs site. Bowing to your superior knowledge (tugs forelock), I've now saved that site as well - I'll see how prices compare.

 

Thanks!

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This is why I love my local car spares shop, not only are they much cheaper than Halfords, they are more helpful! I also buy 2 of all filters, belts etc and keep the numbers handy, although I now have real trouble getting anything for my little car. Every time I walk in there, they assume its for the boat.

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