Battery headache

[Flocal]

Need some new batteries and have had a shop around, so many people recommend the Numax sealed 110ah but I'm swaying toward the Vartar wet 110ah battery. Some good reviews.. Bit pricey but I want them too last..

 

Any recommendations?

[bottle]

If you want them to last, treat them with TLC.

 

The possible difference(s) between the two are the type, one is sealed and the other is not, they are both 'wet lead acid'.

 

The other difference is the internals (lead), check their weights, the heavier one will probably have more lead and be more robust and possibly take more abuse.

 

See the first line of this post.

ps. I had Numax and they lasted two and a half years, on an 'all electric' boat but they were treated humanely, never allowed below 50% SOC and always charged to at least 95% SOC with regular charges to 100% SOC .

[Flocal]

My current batteries are Numax 110ah sealed and have lasted me three years. Put them in Boat and haven't looked at them since. They have never been taken out and charged properly, only charged via one alternator and daily engine running.

I was all for the Vartar ones but my budget has been severely strangled so might have to go Numax

[bottle]

So all being equal, you know they will need replacing in three years, start saving now.

[Flocal]

http://www.tayna.co.uk/Numax-CXV31MF-P3694.html

[Naughty Cal]

My current batteries are Numax 110ah sealed and have lasted me three years. Put them in Boat and haven't looked at them since. They have never been taken out and charged properly, only charged via one alternator and daily engine running.

I was all for the Vartar ones but my budget has been severely strangled so might have to go Numax

Just go with the same again.

 

Unless you can be very strict with your charging regime there is little point in buying the more expensive batteries.

[steelaway]

Hi

I have great service from Varta battery's but make sure they are not sealed. If you charge them hard they will need to be topped up.

Have a look at 6V T 105, or US Battery's equivalent, I think these are the best.

 

Alex

[mango]

If you want them to last, treat them with TLC.

 

The possible difference(s) between the two are the type, one is sealed and the other is not, they are both 'wet lead acid'.

 

The other difference is the internals (lead), check their weights, the heavier one will probably have more lead and be more robust and possibly take more abuse.

 

See the first line of this post.

ps. I had Numax and they lasted two and a half years, on an 'all electric' boat but they were treated humanely, never allowed below 50% SOC and always charged to at least 95% SOC with regular charges to 100% SOC .

That is better than most manage, but high discharge rates are another way of shortening the life of batteries.

[Flocal]

I've ordered the Numax ones, not my favourite choice but funds kind of dictated that.

Will have 2x 165w panels on them so should be topped up better tHan my last ones!

Cheers

[Higgs]

I'm working with a fairly basic setup and have only two 110 Ah leisure batteries. These two have each been fitted with Sterling desulphation units. The units have a led light to tell when they're active, and they only switch on at 12.8v. It does give me some indication of the batteries state of charge. Interestingly, over night, the batteries do manage to recover after an evenings use and give me an idea of the strength and health of the batteries. It is as intelligent as the charging gets on this boat. If there's no light on the units in the morning, I switch on the charger.

Edited January 16, 2014 by Higgs

[ditchcrawler]

I'm working with a fairly basic setup and have only two 110 Ah leisure batteries. These two have each been fitted with Sterling desulphation units. The units have a led light to tell when they're active, and they only switch on at 12.8v. It does give me some indication of the batteries state of charge. Interestingly, over night, the batteries do manage to recover after an evenings use and give me an idea of the strength and health of the batteries. It is as intelligent as the charging gets on this boat. If there's no light on the units in the morning, I switch on the charger.

Aldi had some 12/24 volt battery monitors last week, I would guess they would have been under a fiver.

[Phil Ambrose]

I'm working with a fairly basic setup and have only two 110 Ah leisure batteries. These two have each been fitted with Sterling desulphation units. The units have a led light to tell when they're active, and they only switch on at 12.8v. It does give me some indication of the batteries state of charge. Interestingly, over night, the batteries do manage to recover after an evenings use and give me an idea of the strength and health of the batteries. It is as intelligent as the charging gets on this boat. If there's no light on the units in the morning, I switch on the charger.

You say you turn the charger on in the morning, does that mean you have shore power? If so why not leave the charger on, if it is a decent 4/5 stage marine charger it will keep them sweet and be in float mode most of the time.

Phil

[Staarek]

How many are you looking into getting? I've got a really good experience with Trojan batteries, will definitely recommend them on expense of any other brands. Some companies will do you a discount if you are buying 4+ units.

[dmr]

I propose two general rules for battery selection.

 

1 If you REALLY have the knowledge and motivation to look after batteries, and have the technology to do an equalisation charge, then get Trojan type batteries, otherwise get the cheapest you can find.

 

2 If your batteries are incredibly difficult to get at then consider sealed batteries, otherwise get standard open batteries and check the levels from time to time.

 

...............Dave

[trackman]

I propose two general rules for battery selection.

 

1 If you REALLY have the knowledge and motivation to look after batteries, and have the technology to do an equalisation charge, then get Trojan type batteries, otherwise get the cheapest you can find.

 

2 If your batteries are incredibly difficult to get at then consider sealed batteries, otherwise get standard open batteries and check the levels from time to time.

 

I would support these comments.

Edited January 24, 2014 by trackman

[wirren]

Our Numax lasted for 6 years ! We are not live aboard & they were served by solar panels.

Our bow thruster battery also stopped working at 6 years after I half slipped into the canal whilst climbing off the boat whilst carrying it.

Batteries don't like being thrown onto the ground, they crack & leak :0(

 

Mark.

[David Schweizer]

I propose two general rules for battery selection.

 

1 If you REALLY have the knowledge and motivation to look after batteries, and have the technology to do an equalisation charge, then get Trojan type batteries, otherwise get the cheapest you can find.

 

2 If your batteries are incredibly difficult to get at then consider sealed batteries, otherwise get standard open batteries and check the levels from time to time.

 

...............Dave

 

This advice is regulary offered but I have never really understood exactly what it means. We have two 6volt US 125 deep cycle batteries on our boat (similar to Trojans), which have been installed for nearly nine years and they still hold a full charge without any special treatment other than the (very) occassional checking of electrolyte levels. The last lot lasted more than 13 years before being passed on to another boater who could charge them more frequently than we could.

 

Could someone please explain what Equalization actually entails, perhaps we are equalizing the batteries without knowing it, or is the need to equalize batteries just another "urban myth"?

[Tony Brooks]

snip

 

Could someone please explain what Equalization actually entails, perhaps we are equalizing the batteries without knowing it, or is the need to equalize batteries just another "urban myth"?

 

I am sure that in the days of GIBBO he said that its stand by batteries that are permanently on float charge that NEED equalization charging. I also think he said t was because the acid stratified and equalization mixed it up again. I am also sure he said that batteries in boats that are subject to "normal" usage patterns do not need equalization. However I think (not know) that many people use the equalization cycle for a different reason and do gain a benefit.

 

I am also convinced that unless the boat is on shore power then the batteries will very rarely, if ever, be fully charged. This includes solar charge boats because they do not charge 24/7. Therefore sulphation will take place so a period of charging at higher voltage will convert more of that sulphate back to lead oxide and extend the life of the battery - providing the battery design allows for and can stand up to such charging.

 

Now, one could argue that this is equalization as it uses an equalisation charge procedure but I think of it as simply a period of charging at a higher than normal voltage.

[pistnbroke]

Most of the so called sealed batteries have a row of stoppers under the label..easily checked by rubbing your thumb over it or looking for the indentations ..if not then of course buy a drill.

[furnessvale]

 

This advice is regulary offered but I have never really understood exactly what it means. We have two 6volt US 125 deep cycle batteries on our boat (similar to Trojans), which have been installed for nearly nine years and they still hold a full charge without any special treatment other than the (very) occassional checking of electrolyte levels. The last lot lasted more than 13 years before being passed on to another boater who could charge them more frequently than we could.

 

Could someone please explain what Equalization actually entails, perhaps we are equalizing the batteries without knowing it, or is the need to equalize batteries just another "urban myth"?

I am due for new batteries and I am considering using larger 6 volt ones. If I fit 4 x 12v at 110Ah I believe I get 440Ah. If I fit 2 x 6v at 240Ah do I get 240Ah or 480Ah? My gut instinct is saying 240.

 

If it is the lower figure, do you find 2 x 6v Trojans sufficient for everyday use?

 

George ex nb Alton retired

[Keeping Up]

This advice is regulary offered but I have never really understood exactly what it means. We have two 6volt US 125 deep cycle batteries on our boat (similar to Trojans), which have been installed for nearly nine years and they still hold a full charge without any special treatment other than the (very) occassional checking of electrolyte levels. The last lot lasted more than 13 years before being passed on to another boater who could charge them more frequently than we could.

 

Could someone please explain what Equalization actually entails, perhaps we are equalizing the batteries without knowing it, or is the need to equalize batteries just another "urban myth"?

 

Have a look at Trojan's own site http://www.trojanbattery.com/tech-support/battery-maintenance/#Equalizing

 

I am due for new batteries and I am considering using larger 6 volt ones. If I fit 4 x 12v at 110Ah I believe I get 440Ah. If I fit 2 x 6v at 240Ah do I get 240Ah or 480Ah? My gut instinct is saying 240.

 

If it is the lower figure, do you find 2 x 6v Trojans sufficient for everyday use?

 

George ex nb Alton retired

If you connect 2x6v at 240Ah in series that will give you 12v at 240Ah. Your gut instinct is right.

[nb Innisfree]

 

This advice is regulary offered but I have never really understood exactly what it means. We have two 6volt US 125 deep cycle batteries on our boat (similar to Trojans), which have been installed for nearly nine years and they still hold a full charge without any special treatment other than the (very) occassional checking of electrolyte levels. The last lot lasted more than 13 years before being passed on to another boater who could charge them more frequently than we could.

 

Could someone please explain what Equalization actually entails, perhaps we are equalizing the batteries without knowing it, or is the need to equalize batteries just another "urban myth"?

Over a period of time battery cells get out of balance, I.e. because they are not identical each perforns slightly different to each other. When a battery has been charged for a couple of hours or so it's considered to be fully charged but in fact some of the cells are only partly charged. To counteract this the battery needs to be kept on charge until the last cell has caught up with the others, when a cell reaches a state of full charge it starts to produce hydrogen gas in the form of bubbles so as each cell catches up it starts to gas off which is unavoidable but has the added benefit of mixing the electrolyte to avoid stratification.

 

So a gassing charge and an equalisation charge are two different things, it's just that gassing is a by-product of equalising (or vice versa)

Edited January 24, 2014 by nb Innisfree

[David Schweizer]

I am due for new batteries and I am considering using larger 6 volt ones. If I fit 4 x 12v at 110Ah I believe I get 440Ah. If I fit 2 x 6v at 240Ah do I get 240Ah or 480Ah? My gut instinct is saying 240.

 

If it is the lower figure, do you find 2 x 6v Trojans sufficient for everyday use?

 

George ex nb Alton retired

 

If you connect two 6volt 240Ah batteries in series (negative to positive) you will get 12volts 240Ah.

 

We have two 6volt US 125 deep cycle batteries which are very similar to the Trojans. We have a fairly modest electricity demand, running just lights, radio, TV, and fridge (on 24 all hours), and find the two batteries to be more than adequate. We never have to run the engine to top the batteries up whlist out cruising, which is usually for between five and eight hours a day.

 

For your information this is where you can get the US batteries ( i have never found anyone cheaper) :- http://www.tayna.co.uk/US-125-Deep-Cycle-Monobloc-Battery-P4121.html

[furnessvale]

 

If you connect two 6volt 240Ah batteries in series (negative to positive) you will get 12volts 240Ah.

 

We have two 6volt US 125 deep cycle batteries which are very similar to the Trojans. We have a fairly modest electricity demand, running just lights, radio, TV, and fridge (on 24 all hours), and find the two batteries to be more than adequate. We never have to run the engine to top the batteries up whlist out cruising, which is usually for between five and eight hours a day.

 

For your information this is where you can get the US batteries ( i have never found anyone cheaper) :- http://www.tayna.co.uk/US-125-Deep-Cycle-Monobloc-Battery-P4121.html

Thanks for that.

 

Yes, I have been looking at tayna for my new batteries but I am holding off until Spring.

 

I like your idea that your battery usage is fairly modest. At that rate I too should be OK with a pair of Trojans or US's.

 

George ex nb Alton retired