Rear Deck Boards

[Sarahr]

We have a cruiser stern narrow boat with no rear cover, the rear deck boards were new 2 years ago according to the previous owner (we only purchased the boat last February) The boards are made from marine plywood with a non slip rubber matting stuck over the top. The boards are starting to fall apart already and need replacing. I wanted to know if there is a better material to use when we replace them? Is there a synthetic material available which will not rot, or a wooden alternative which will last better. Any advice will be gratefully received as we do not want to use plywood again.

[Chop!]

They were probably made using a lower grade ply, good quality marine ply boards should last much longer, but it isn't cheap.

Also be careful what you treat them with, solvent based paints, waterproofers and lacquers can weaken the glue bonding the layers.

Finally, if you fit pull rings so that you can lift them easily, be aware that you may need to strengthen the underside of the edge where they are let in.

Good luck

[Kwacker]

I had a new engine cover made of reinforced aluminium checkerplate.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/aluminium-checker-plate-750

It is like a large manhole cover, but quite light .... it cost a few bob, but most importantly, it keeps the rain out, which the original plywood one failed miserably to do.

It is cushioned by a rubber seal, and the underside is covered with sound insulating foam rubber. It has performed faultlessly for 3 years. To access the engine, you lift the cover, then prop it open with the tiller.

Edited January 10, 2014 by Kwacker

[Neil2]

Phenolic resin coated ply is what many seem to use these days - it's the stuff you find lining the floor of trailers, horse boxes etc

 

There are specialists that sell it but a good builders merchant will have it as well.

[Ex- Member]

Ecosheet is what I would use.

 

 

http://ecosheetdirect.co.uk/eco-sheet-products/

[Sarahr]

Ecosheet is what I would use.

 

 

http://ecosheetdirect.co.uk/eco-sheet-products/

I looked at Ecosheet and I think it would flex too much as it is not thick enough.

[Keeping Up]

Hexagrip is a popular choice. It seems to last about 10 years if you seal the edges with varnish or woodstain.

[Ex- Member]

I looked at Ecosheet and I think it would flex too much as it is not thick enough.

 

It was a point brought up previously actually.

 

It would only need a strut though to reinforce it which could be made removable. I would gladly fit a strut knowing I wouldn't have to faff around with the boards, sealing edges as you need to do with Phenolic coated type board, and it isn't going to rot either. I do like the checkerplate though, but I suspect a very costly job

[Kwacker]

The Fabricator charged me £350 all-in, working to my design.

Viewed in the perspective of the overall cost of the boat and running it, not too bad I thought, and It should last as long as the boat does.

[Ex- Member]

The Fabricator charged me £350 all-in, working to my design.

Viewed in the perspective of the overall cost of the boat and running it, not too bad I thought, and It should last as long as the boat does.

 

It does look the business especially with Blue Taking the longevity of it into account also, that's not a bad price.

 

The Ecoboard I mentioned is about £60 a sheet, you would only need half of it though, but probably need to add a centre strut, so you could probably sort it for well under £100 and it would probably last as long as the boat as well.

 

TBH I would probably go for the cheap option, but I would first try to knock down the price of the alloy version as a preference.

[Paul C]

Hexagrip, aka Phenolic Resin coated plywood board, is approx. £45/sheet last time I looked (for 12mm). For 18mm, its about £60

[smileypete]

Decent 'WBP' ply is OK if it's well treated with a wood preserver.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

[blackrose]

I had a new engine cover made of reinforced aluminium checkerplate.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/bhp/aluminium-checker-plate-750

It is like a large manhole cover, but quite light .... it cost a few bob, but most importantly, it keeps the rain out, which the original plywood one failed miserably to do.

It is cushioned by a rubber seal, and the underside is covered with sound insulating foam rubber. It has performed faultlessly for 3 years. To access the engine, you lift the cover, then prop it open with the tiller.

 

Despite appearances, aluminium checkerplate is far too slippery in the wet in my opinion.

Hexagrip, aka Phenolic Resin coated plywood board, is approx. £45/sheet last time I looked (for 12mm). For 18mm, its about £60

 

It does seem to be the industry standard.

[Kwacker]

In my experience, the checkerplate has never been slippery in the wet with any of my footware, but I wouldn't fancy leather soles on it though.

It weights about 1/2 as much as the previous Hexagrip engine cover that had been made a couple of years before I bought the boat and was already showing signs of water damage ... It was heavy, unwieldy and leaked and I hated it.

The gas locker lid is also Hexagrip and showing it's age (5 yrs), and is due for replacement this year ... anyone got a spare 12mm offcut?

[Nightwatch]

Hexagrip, aka Phenolic Resin coated plywood board, is approx. £45/sheet last time I looked (for 12mm). For 18mm, its about £60

also there's Buffalo Board, very similar and less cost. IMO no where near the same quality.

 

Martyn

[mango]

I have used 18 mm HeksaPly phenolic plywood from Arnold Laver: http://www.laver.co.uk/doclib/lavertex-leaflet.pdf

 

It was half the price of some of the products I was offered.

[nebulae]

I seem to remember from early boatbuilding days that we used Thames Marine ply BS1088. This was top quality .So called marine ply still meeting BS1088 that I used 5 years ago was definately not the same quality that we used 50 years ago.The phenolic treated ply on our Ivor Williams trailers is good,but I would have thought,a bit slippery for a boat deck .I replaced the cockpit floor of a 23ft yacht 5 years ago with alluminium treadplate and this seems to work well.

[Stilllearning]

Hexagrip is a popular choice. It seems to last about 10 years if you seal the edges with varnish or woodstain.

Indeed, use hexagrip it works and lasts as well as anything, especially if you take pains to seal the sedges with some paint/sealant/bitumen. Any cut edges etc need extra attention to preserve the waterproofing.

Aluminuim treadplate works, but can rattle and does need soundproofing.

And hello to Petersfield, my Mother has lived there for years, and works in the Physic Garden , a wonderful oasis just off the High Street.

[bag 'o' bones]

Bought new our boat sported the hex grip type boarding which lasted for a couple of years until the edges started delaminating. After trying external ply (twice) and expensive marine ply, we've found ply based material only lasts for a couple of seasons before going tatty.

 

The latest boards are made from cheap as chips shuttering board painted the same colour of the boat. So far lasting well albeit a bit slippery. Planning to repaint and sprinkle with sand when the weather improves.

Edited January 11, 2014 by bag 'o' bones

[kevinl]

Buy or make a cover of some sort, melting snow, really heavy rain, leaves in the drains, too many potential problems if you don't have one if you're not there all the time to keep an eye on things. You can buy something for less than a tenner then even a plywood cover will last for years. If not then the ally checkerboard is the best option IMHO.

K

[Ally]

Hexagrip, but buy the proper stuff not the rip off cheaper rubbish. We either paint the cut edges or use iroko to edge it. We have 10 year old boards going strong still.

Edited January 12, 2014 by Ally

[blackrose]

In my experience, the checkerplate has never been slippery in the wet with any of my footware, but I wouldn't fancy leather soles on it though.

It weights about 1/2 as much as the previous Hexagrip engine cover that had been made a couple of years before I bought the boat and was already showing signs of water damage ... It was heavy, unwieldy and leaked and I hated it.

 

 

Well, that's not my experience or the experience of quite a few contributors on the subject in other threads.

 

Some manufacturers make non-slip aluminium plate which is meant to have much greater traction: http://www.slipnot.com/aluminum-checker-plate/

 

Also aluminium checkerplate may be half the weight of hexagrip (depending on the thickness), but anyone with larger deckboards should also bear in mind that aluminium checkerplate won't be nearly as strong in terms of 3 point bend strength over longer dimensions and will need support.

Hexagrip, but buy the proper stuff not the rip off cheaper rubbish. We either paint the cut edges or use iroko to edge it. We have 10 year old boards going strong still.

 

My boards are nearly 9 years old but I stuck 20mm aluminium angle around the edges a few years ago with marineflex. I painted the boards afterwards with International Interdeck non-slip deck paint.

 

 

Rainwater drains at the corners. I sealed the edges with marineflex.

Edited January 12, 2014 by blackrose

[dmr]

Another option to consider...

I replaced my locker lids with the cheap pretend hexboard and it only lasted a year so I thought I would try something that would last longer...

I made new lids out of exterior grade plywood then had close fitting skins made from aluminium checkerplate. The edges are folder a little deeper than the wood to keep the water out (makes sure it drops into the drainage channel), and the corners welded. A local sheet metal worker did the cutting/folding/welding for about £60.

 

These lids are very solid (they are also the steo on and off the boat), look good, and should last forever.

I used the "propeller" style aluminium plate, its much more costly than the common 5 bar plate but I feel it looks a bit more at home on a trad style boat.

 

...........Dave

[Kwacker]

 

Well, that's not my experience or the experience of quite a few contributors on the subject in other threads.

 

Some manufacturers make non-slip aluminium plate which is meant to have much greater traction: http://www.slipnot.com/aluminum-checker-plate/

 

Also aluminium checkerplate may be half the weight of hexagrip (depending on the thickness), but anyone with larger deckboards should also bear in mind aluminium checkerplate won't be nearly as strong in terms of 3 point bend strength over longer dimensions and will need support.

 

Mine does indeed have strengthening ribs welded in and is more rigid than the old ply boards. The lighter weight enabled me to have it made as a single cover, rather than two seperates or hinged.

Engine access is far better with the single cover.

It's only drawback was that with the summer sun on it, and bare feet .... it got a bit hot!! Easily and comfortably cured though with a plastic-backed picnic rug.

[Zayna]

If you've a lot to pay for all at once, I don't think there's any harm in using less expensive ply and giving it a good varnish or whatever. Ours have lasted a couple of years. We're replacing them shortly, but when we had the initial expense of the boat/survey/everything else, we cut corners on the ply for the deck boards. Not the end of the world, we have stopped beating ourselves up because we can't make things last forever or afford the top of the range.