Moving a sink...

[Doodlebug]

In order to make more room in the boat its been decided that we should switch the location of the lounge and the kitchen, so the living areas are all together.

 

Most of it will be a simple job, the areas are the same size, so (in theory anyway) it should be simply a case of lifting it out, and putting it in a different place.

 

The only problem I have is the sink. I'm fine with moving the plumbing, but the drainage needs to go through the side of the hull, obviously.

 

Does anyone know of any easy way to drill the hole though the side of the boat, using only a battery operated drill. I dont have a generator at the moment so cant use a power drill.

 

The only other idea I had, is that the shower bilge pipe exits where the kitchen will be, so if I could have a T junction they would drain out the same hole, but I imagine when the shower bilge is switched on, the sink will fill up with shower water before it drains away.

 

There also needs to be a washing machine in the kitchen. What about putting in some sort of grey water tank and a float switch and bilge pump, and then the T junction to the same hole as the shower. That way I should get around the problem...

 

...Shouldn't I?

 

Thanks for any opinions!

[RLWP]

Don't forget you need to weld up the hole you are no longer using

 

Richard

[Doodlebug]

Why, can't I just cap it off?

[RLWP]

I'm going on what our surveyor said about our hull and our disused shower outlet, which was weld a patch on

 

Caps are vulnerable to being knocked off in bridge holes and locks

 

Richard

[bag 'o' bones]

we cut our holes for the drainage fitting with a 12 quid hole cutter set from Aldi using a battery powered drill. The hole cutter set may have been cheap but not certainly not cheap and nasty. Interestingly Wickes sells a set which looks suspiciously similar.

 

As for sharing holes, you'll probally have problems with water back up as you have already pointed out. If you can cut one hole easily you might as well cut another and separate them.

[alan_fincher]

I'm going on what our surveyor said about our hull and our disused shower outlet, which was weld a patch on

 

Caps are vulnerable to being knocked off in bridge holes and locks

 

Richard

Most boats tend to have skin fittings that are equally vulnerable though I would say. Probably more so, because they are often in a softer metal.

 

(Although I accept that hire boats may well be engineered in a way that avoids this).

 

Provided you have access, and it is not to close to the waterline, is it really a great problem if you did manage to knock a cap off - just replace it with another one.

[bizzard]

Capping it off with a threaded cap or plug should be ok. Assuming the hole you need to drill is lets say 3/4'' and depending on your drill, a very low speed high torque one is really needed. You can get single hole cutters from say Screwfix with a plain spindle to fit ordinary key or keyless chucks. If your battery drill won't go dead slow push hard to make it go slow using lots of lubricating oil on the cutter or could be instantly blunted. You could drill a hole as big as the the drill bit that your drill chuck takes and file it out to size, this doesn't take as long as it sounds.

[Doodlebug]

To be honest I noticed that on the outside of the boat, there are three holes near where the shower is. I have no idea which is the shower, nor whether the others are welded up. They are about 20cm above the waterline though.

 

The kitchen one doesn't even have a fitting on the outside, its just a hole.

 

I meant I would cap it off on the inside btw so it wouldn't get knocked off.

Capping it off with a threaded cap or plug should be ok. Assuming the hole you need to drill is lets say 3/4'' and depending on your drill, a very low speed high torque one is really needed. You can get single hole cutters from say Screwfix with a plain spindle to fit ordinary key or keyless chucks. If your battery drill won't go dead slow push hard to make it go slow using lots of lubricating oil on the cutter or could be instantly blunted. You could drill a hole as big as the the drill bit that your drill chuck takes and file it out to size, this doesn't take as long as it sounds.

 

Ok i'll have a go at this.

 

How do people plumb in their washing machines. I assume this needs a grey water bilge tank thingy?

[Robbo]

How do people plumb in their washing machines. I assume this needs a grey water bilge tank thingy?

Straight to a skin fitting is best.

[AndrewIC]

Get a bi-metal hole saw (and appropriate arbor) from Starrett (they sell direct online). Go slowly, and it's surprisingly easy.

 

Personally I'd get the old hole welded up especially if you are are not going to be able to get at the inside of it when you have finished the refit, but in the interim I'd put a threaded cap on it and get it sorted out properly next time the boat was out of the water.

[Phoenix_V]

one way valves?

[Doodlebug]

Ok thanks, I will get down to wickes today.

 

I'm not sure a one way valve will work, because the water wont be 100% clear, if its from the sink it could have all kinda of bits in it that I imagine would easily block it up.

[BEngo]

Ok thanks, I will get down to wickes today.

 

I'm not sure a one way valve will work, because the water wont be 100% clear, if its from the sink it could have all kinda of bits in it that I imagine would easily block it up.

There's a special fitting for putting a washing machine or dishwasher outlet into a sink drain which prevents back-up into the sink. If you reverse your arrangement and have the sink go direct to the current shower outlet hole you could fit one of those in the sink drain for the shower water which (probably)won't have lumps in it.

 

N

[koukouvagia]

There also needs to be a washing machine in the kitchen. What about putting in some sort of grey water tank and a float switch and bilge pump, and then the T junction to the same hole as the shower. That way I should get around the problem...

 

.

 

 

I've got this arrangement with one of these grey water tanks and a Gulper pump. - works a treat. Just make sure you can get to the inspection hatch easily because they do need cleaning periodically.

[PaulD]

 

 

I've got this arrangement with one of these grey water tanks and a Gulper pump. - works a treat. Just make sure you can get to the inspection hatch easily because they do need cleaning periodically.

I have one of these with a Johnson Ultima level switch. Need to remove and dry out the switch every year because the cable entry leaks. Crap and wouldn't recommend to my worst enemy.

 

Paul

[nicknorman]

I have one of these with a Johnson Ultima level switch. Need to remove and dry out the switch every year because the cable entry leaks. Crap and wouldn't recommend to my worst enemy.

 

Paul

Quite agree - they have to be ventilated to allow the water to flow in and out without pressuring, and a vent = a way for water to escape into the bilges when the pump or float switch fails. Our boat came with one for the shower but I have replaced it with a gulper direct from the shower drain. Much safer!

 

I think BEngo's idea has a problem in that washing machine outlets are pumped, whereas sink outlets aren't and rely on gravity, therefore I don't think it would work. Why not just cap off internally the existing fitting and add one in the right place - its not too hard to drill a hole in 6mm steel with the right hole cutter, just use plenty of water to keep the cutter cool and a bit of patience. Putting it just above or below a rubbing strake helps to protect the outside of the fitting against scrapes, though you may not have a strake at the right height.

Edited April 22, 2013 by nicknorman

[Grace and Favour]

Use a Starrett hole cutter, it may be a couple of pounds dearer than a Wickes model, but they are excellent

 

Cut slowly - and please, lubricate the job with a cutting oil!

[nicknorman]

Use a Starrett hole cutter, it may be a couple of pounds dearer than a Wickes model, but they are excellent

 

Cut slowly - and please, lubricate the job with a cutting oil!

Well I was careful not to say cutting oil because it will end up in the canal. Water is a reasonable Eco alternative.

[magnetman]

I used a carbide holesaw for 6mm steel it went through it in no time

 

locksmiths use them to drill out locks

[smileypete]

Quite agree - they have to be ventilated to allow the water to flow in and out without pressuring, and a vent = a way for water to escape into the bilges when the pump or float switch fails. Our boat came with one for the shower but I have replaced it with a gulper direct from the shower drain. Much safer!

 

The vent should be plumbed to a length of tubing! And of course the tubing should end above the level of basin/shower/bath/whatever to prevent just that problem.

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited April 23, 2013 by smileypete