Seeking Llangollen Canal Itinerary Advice

[VisitingFromCalifornia]

 

My husband and I will be traveling in Wales and England for about three weeks this summer, and toward the beginning of the trip we are hiring a narrowboat on the Llangollen canal for 7 days at the end of June. We are both active and in our early 40’s. We have some sailing experience but no powerboat (much less narrowboat) experience. At least the tiller won’t be foreign to us.

 

I have the Nicholson guide and have read everything I can find online. I have also tried to use an oft-recommended route planning site, though it and my computer do not like each other for some reason. Given our lack of experience, I am not sure what a reasonable itinerary would look like for us.

 

We are picking the boat up in Wrenbury and going to Llangollen and back. We pick the boat up on a Monday afternoon (and will probably be on our way by 4:30-5pm), and we have to return it early the following Monday (9am). Given this, I don’t expect to go far the first or (especially) the last day.

 

The most obvious thing I am trying to figure out is where the most reasonable overnight mooring spots would each day. We plan on provisioning and eating on the boat at least some of the time (my husband can’t eat the slightest trace of gluten which can make eating out a bit of a chore), so being by a pub every night isn’t essential… though having a nightcap would certainly be appreciated. I also wonder whether it would be best to do all of the boating in one block (presumably in the morning) or to divide it between morning and evening. I also understand that with the current in our favor, the trip back will be faster than the trip out, though I’m not sure whether or how to account for this in a contingent schedule.

 

The final thing on my mind is how to balance boat travel with off-the-boat exploration. There are some towns that definitely look worth wandering around if we have the time, and there are a few other sites of interest (too many in Llangollen, so we might go back by car on our way to Conwy after we drop the boat off). I wonder how much time we can afford to budget to off-the-boat activities. I’ll say that one in particular that I have logistical doubts about is Chirk Castle (it might be too much of a time investment, particularly given the time it would take us to get there and back). Are there any things I should make a point of seeing when moored? Of course, the main thing we expect to see is the canal and what it passes through, but seeing more on land than the inside of a pub would be welcome (not that I don’t look forward to some pub interiors and the wares therein).

 

Basically, this is an invitation to any advice you are generous enough to part with as I try to go into this adventure with at least a contingent plan.

[Pie Eater]

Welcome to the forum.

Firstly you should have ample time to get to Llangollen basin and back to Wrenbury in the time that you have.

If you go on the Shropshire Union Canal Society website and search for "moorings" you will find a complete list of moorings. The SUCS visitor moorings are usually marked by black marker posts at the start and finish of the mooring site and most of them have mooring rings and sometimes picnic benches and barbeque areas.

As the longest daylight hours are in June you should be able to sail for longer and like you said you could sail in the morning then have a break and then continue in the evening.

More advice will probably follow when forum members wake up.

[Stroudwater1]

Welcome to the forum. It’s a journey we did a few years ago, and was very enjoyable. It’s always hard advising others as what we liked isn’t necessarily what others do. 
its also good to leave contingency time and not plan to the nth degree. Then if say Ellesmere is horribly busy you can do something else instead, or visit on the way back when it could be quieter. It was certainly fill of wildlife and their residue. Theres a nice shop there I believe.
 

Same with mooring, where what seemed good is full there’s always places further on. 
From memory  and a good reason to write a log/blog, we didn’t but do now) We stopped at Llangollen  for a walk to Horseshoe falls and by the hotel to see the river. There folk were coming down in  rubber rings chaotically so we stopped for longer. Theres a horse drawn boat that takes you up there if you fancy it. Theres also a heritage steam railway so you can visit that later on you way to Conway. We walked over Pontcyclte, and walked a short way below, it’s quite a sight from underneath . Then we stopped to get a smooth snake out of the water.  There was a bit of a queue at the locks. It was hot and just below the locks was a serious grass track meet so we sat on the roof and watched that for a long time enjoying lunch. One mooring we did at Frankton junction  - you almost certainly won’t have time to go on it but a walk down a bit of the restored Montgomery canal is interesting. We also moored up by one of the other meres, it was totally deserted as everyone was at Ellesmere. 

So I’ve not been very helpful- unless you really dawdle you will do it, moor where it’s safe and you fancy, stop if something attracts you. Keep going or stop for lunch whatever you fancy. A stop at Chirk to admire the aquaduct is enjoyable too. 
 

We have been to Chirk castle on another occasion. It’s nice but quite costly if not National Trust members. More importantly it is a long way and overall probably not worth the time. It maybe on a bus route, but I’m not sure. Buses run irregularly in rural places, or rather regularly once a day or so. 
 

Open canal map free app will give you some ideas of footpaths on the way. Some of the pubs are nice. IanD will advise. He also wrote a cruise thread which is helpful too. 
 

 

 

[Tracy D'arth]

The current is not going to make much difference in your speed out and back, the canal is busy at that time of year.

[Stroudwater1]

38 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

The current is not going to make much difference in your speed out and back, the canal is busy at that time of year.

Especially in a hire boat. Meant to mention hire boats are shallow draughted so getting to Llangollen shouldn’t be any problem at all. It probably isn’t for most boats but like the speed of the current it’s largely a navigation affecting myth unless you are a fully loaded working boat. 

[IanD]

21 minutes ago, Stroudwater1 said:

Especially in a hire boat. Meant to mention hire boats are shallow draughted so getting to Llangollen shouldn’t be any problem at all. It probably isn’t for most boats but like the speed of the current it’s largely a navigation affecting myth unless you are a fully loaded working boat. 

Having done this trip a couple of times in hire boats, there is definitely a difference in average speeds going up to Llangollen and coming back -- IIRC Canalplan takes this into account, and the timings it came up with were pretty accurate in both directions.

 

One warning when planning -- queues are likely in summer at the lock flights (especially Grindley Brook), so don't forget to allow for this, we've had to wait anything up to a couple of hours.

 

With a Monday-Monday trip you should miss the worst of the congestion at Llangollen from all the hire boats doing mainly Sat-Sat trips. It's worth planning to have a full day there, there's a lot to do -- much of the rest of the canal is pretty rural with not much to do. Ellesmere is also good overnight stop.

[Tigerr]

You can use 'Canalplan' to manage your route, it is very good. 

Mind you, you can't guarantee to get moorings where you want, in the busy season, after about 1500. It can make sense to start and finish early. 

[VisitingFromCalifornia]

Thanks for your replies. I've gotten some helpful tips from them.

 

I've seen the suggestion for Canalplan before, but it really doesn't like my computer. It goes wonky and gives me off firewall errors in any browser (I have no firewall beyond whatever is native and passive in windows and have never encountered this on another site). 
 

Stroudwater1,

 

Everyone's interests differ, but I like a number of your suggestions and will note them (and you endorsed a few

I already had on my radar which is also helpful). I tend to "plan" heavily before a trip (create an annotated list of things of interest and plot them on a custom Google map - typically more than I would have time for), then I embrace contingency when I arrive. The list and map become sources for ideas and we do whatever appeals at the time whether it's on the lost or not. 

Pie Eater,

 

First of all, great name. I was not

concerned about the specifics of finding moorings, but rather was wondering about a reasonable pace (e.g., stop in the vicinity of x night one and y night to - figuring out a pacing that doesn't have me back late or too early). Your ended up giving me helpful information I didn't know I was looking for. Thanks!

 

Ian,

 

Thanks for the tip about the Grindley Brook locks. 
 

 

[Pie Eater]

I would suggest that you aim to get to Grindley Brook bottom lock on the first night and go through Grindley Brook locks first thing on the second day. (Approx 4 hours sailing). There is a petrol station that sells groceries and also the Horse and Jockey pub which serves food.

 

Obviously whether you can do this depends on what time you set off and if you are later then there are countryside visitor moorings en route and also the Willeymoor pub which is canalside at Willeymoor lock.

[JoeC]

It's not a route planner as such but download an app onto your mobile if you are going to use one in the UK - OpenCanal Map. It gives you a plan of the canals, moorings, water points, pubs etc. I use it all the time.

Open Canal Map | Free UK Canal and River map for Desktop, Android and iPhone / iPad - created through user contribution and Canal and River Trust Map Open Data

 

Enjoy your time over here.

Edited April 4 by JoeC

[David Mack]

5 hours ago, VisitingFromCalifornia said:

I've seen the suggestion for Canalplan before, but it really doesn't like my computer. It goes wonky and gives me off firewall errors in any browser (I have no firewall beyond whatever is native and passive in windows and have never encountered this on another site). 

Worth submitting a bug report - the canalplan owners do respond and try to correct any user problems.

[Hudds Lad]

The Motor Museum in Llangollen is worth a look, but it may not be open when you're there as a quick look at the website says they now only open 1st-7th of the month since Covid  

 

A trip on the steam train from Llangollen is also good, or a walk from the basin up to Horseshoe Falls where the canal begins is a good appetite enhancer before the evening meal (don't expect something like Niagara ).

[IanD]

59 minutes ago, Hudds Lad said:

The Motor Museum in Llangollen is worth a look, but it may not be open when you're there as a quick look at the website says they now only open 1st-7th of the month since Covid  

 

A trip on the steam train from Llangollen is also good, or a walk from the basin up to Horseshoe Falls where the canal begins is a good appetite enhancer before the evening meal (don't expect something like Niagara ).

And you can call in at the chain bridge for a pint on the way back...

 

 

[cowpie]

That beer looks a bit "opaque"

[StephenA]

16 hours ago, VisitingFromCalifornia said:

Thanks for your replies. I've gotten some helpful tips from them.

 

I've seen the suggestion for Canalplan before, but it really doesn't like my computer. It goes wonky and gives me off firewall errors in any browser (I have no firewall beyond whatever is native and passive in windows and have never encountered this on another site). 
 

 

 

 

Firewall errors? Please log a bug and include screen shots and details about what you are doing when it goes wrong. Also detail of O/S and Browser versions plus details of any plugins (JS blockers etc).

Edited April 4 by StephenA

[gabble]

My choice for first night would be just above Willeymoor lock. The pub there has great beer (sometimes even gluten free) and good gluten free menu choices which is approved by my daughter who is Coeliac. It is an old fashioned family run place and worth a look in.

 

The Llangollen is one of those canals where there are plenty of good moorings even when busy (perhaps with the exception of some of the honeypot spots like Ellesmere). I’d encourage not planning too much, take each day as it comes and figure out where to go and stop based on the weather and energy levels. There are some great mooring spots to be found out in the countryside away from other boats. As others have said, the locks can end up with queues, especially Grindley Brook but that is all part of the experience. 

 

Llangollen itself is worth an explore if you have the time, one of the nicest places to moor in the town without really knowing you are moored in a town.

 

Timings wise it is definitely the case that going ‘uphill’ is slower due to the flow. Really noticeable through bridges and narrow sections and especially the tunnels and aqueducts. Bear in mind those coming downhill will be moving faster and take longer to stop.

Lots of rural country, so shopping can be a challenge. Ellesmere has a Tesco at the end of the arm which is very handy. Chirk has good shops, independent butchers etc.

 

Other known good pubs for gluten free food include the Narrowboat Inn at Whittington (also a bit of a blast from the past but in a different way to the Willeymoor) and the Horse and Jockey at Grindley Brook which has an excellent gluten free menu.

[agg221]

Mooring - different canal edges call for different techniques. Mooring rings are easiest but where not present mooring to piling (metal uprights with a horizontal strip) is fairly easy. This uses either 'nappy pins' or 'goat chains' but if the boat is not equipped with either you can pass the rope behind the horizontal bar. Mooring at other places is by driving pins into the bank with a hammer. This is fine, but obviously does not work on hard paved towpaths.

 

Some comments based on a trip last October:

 

Ellesmere was a nice place to moor. The Swan was definitely the right choice of pub. If busy, there is piling to moor against further towards Llangollen so if mooring on the way up you can head past the last boat and stop at the first available opportunity.

 

Many people start relatively late (10am) and finish relatively early (4pm) but you have plenty of daylight so if timings permit it can be useful to pass Grindley Brook either before or after these times.

 

As has been mentioned, there is a short arm at Ellesemere with a supermarket (Tesco) at the end. If you need to nip in then going down the arm and having someone hold the boat against the side at the end is a good option if there is no mooring available.

 

There is another arm - the Prees Branch. It doesn't take very long to go up it and back and if you have the time I would recommend it for a sense of exploring the unknown. There is plenty of room to turn at the end.

 

If you find yourself with extra time, you can always go past Wrenbury and head on down as far towards the Shropshire Union as you have time for, then turn and come back.

 

Alec

Edited April 5 by agg221

[VisitingFromCalifornia]

6 hours ago, StephenA said:

 

Firewall errors? Please log a bug and include screen shots and details about what you are doing when it goes wrong. Also detail of O/S and Browser versions plus details of any plugins (JS blockers etc).

 

Unfortunately I was unable to log a bug report on the site (again because of its wonky behavior for me, but of a novel kind). I logged in using Facebook (so as not to need to set up an account), then the bug reporting page got stuck on a rapid reloading loop. 

 

OS is Windows 10. No JS blockers. Have the issue in Firefox, Chrome, and have had in Edge though it did not replicate when I tried today. Firefox (my primary browser) has an ad blocker (uBlock Origin), and Chrome has no extensions (it is my browser of last resort when a page doesn't play nicely with Firefox). I never use Edge but tried it when I encountered this issue the other day (it replicated then but didn't immediately today - I only tried for a couple minutes). Attached screen caps here for you of Firefox and Chrome (this isn't quite the screen I remember encountering before, but I could simply be misremembering - an error screen nonetheless). 

 

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

 

Thanks all for more great tips and suggestions. I think I have a better notion of how best to try to think about scheduling/pacing, and I appreciate the tips for locations. I've seen the Ellesmere Tesco mentioned in an older thread on here and will definitely make note of it. 

 

Gabble, 

Thank you very much for the gluten free intelligence. 

 

Ian,

Those pints look enticing, and I imagine the setting would enhance them. 

Edited April 5 by VisitingFromCalifornia

[Stroudwater1]

The Chainbridge hotel where Ian’s picture is taken is where you can sit and watch folk come down the river Dee in rubber rings that I mentioned .
 

https://www.beardedmenadventures.com/activities/river-tubing-langollen-north-wales/

 

From there you may also be able to watch a steam locomotive pass by above you. You won’t see them for too much time though, as it’s a tiny length of the railway that’s visible from there. It’s mostly luck. We weren’t there for long and saw both. 

[IanD]

2 hours ago, Stroudwater1 said:

The Chainbridge hotel where Ian’s picture is taken is where you can sit and watch folk come down the river Dee in rubber rings that I mentioned .
 

https://www.beardedmenadventures.com/activities/river-tubing-langollen-north-wales/

 

From there you may also be able to watch a steam locomotive pass by above you. You won’t see them for too much time though, as it’s a tiny length of the railway that’s visible from there. It’s mostly luck. We weren’t there for long and saw both. 

Ditto, IIRC the train stops opposite the chain bridge for passengers to get on off.

 

Recommendation for the Willeymoor Lock Tavern seconded, friendly family-run pub with excellent beer and decent pub grub (but note pub/kitchen opening times) and reasonable prices. We moored below the lock fifty yards or so from the pub both times, the towpath above the lock can be a complete swamp.

 

Would also recommend the Bridge Inn at Chirk Bank (good beer and *very* good value food), and the Corn Mill in Llangollen (pricey but good).

Edited April 5 by IanD

[Ken X]

Second vote for the Corn Mill in Llangollen. As Ian says they don't give it away but we find the foods always good.

 

The Aquaduct Inn at Froncysylite is another we use. Last time we moored at Trefor basin and walked over the Ponty to it. The walk back in the dark was interesting 🙂 Particularly as it was January.

 

We often pop into the short Whitchurch arm overnight to shop and eat if timings are right for us.

[IanD]

15 minutes ago, Ken X said:

Second vote for the Corn Mill in Llangollen. As Ian says they don't give it away but we find the foods always good.

 

The Aquaduct Inn at Froncysylite is another we use. Last time we moored at Trefor basin and walked over the Ponty to it. The walk back in the dark was interesting 🙂 Particularly as it was January.

 

We often pop into the short Whitchurch arm overnight to shop and eat if timings are right for us.

Aqueduct Inn had excellent beer and a fantastic view from the terrace (see below), can't vouch for the food since we didn't eat there. Trefor Inn (next to the basin) is OK at best.

 

[StephenA]

11 hours ago, VisitingFromCalifornia said:

 

Unfortunately I was unable to log a bug report on the site (again because of its wonky behavior for me, but of a novel kind). I logged in using Facebook (so as not to need to set up an account), then the bug reporting page got stuck on a rapid reloading loop. 

 

OS is Windows 10. No JS blockers. Have the issue in Firefox, Chrome, and have had in Edge though it did not replicate when I tried today. Firefox (my primary browser) has an ad blocker (uBlock Origin), and Chrome has no extensions (it is my browser of last resort when a page doesn't play nicely with Firefox). I never use Edge but tried it when I encountered this issue the other day (it replicated then but didn't immediately today - I only tried for a couple minutes). Attached screen caps here for you of Firefox and Chrome (this isn't quite the screen I remember encountering before, but I could simply be misremembering - an error screen nonetheless). 

 

______________________________________________________________________________________________________________

 

 

 

Thanks all for more great tips and suggestions. I think I have a better notion of how best to try to think about scheduling/pacing, and I appreciate the tips for locations. I've seen the Ellesmere Tesco mentioned in an older thread on here and will definitely make note of it. 

 

Gabble, 

Thank you very much for the gluten free intelligence. 

 

Ian,

Those pints look enticing, and I imagine the setting would enhance them. 

 

 

Canalplan is at

 

https://canalplan.uk/

 

and looks like this

 

 

Don't use FB to login as we are removing it in a couple of weeks because we cannot comply with FB's latest requirements to use FB login (You have to be a registered business).

Edited April 5 by StephenA

[VisitingFromCalifornia]

5 hours ago, StephenA said:

Canalplan is at

 

https://canalplan.uk/

This is the site I was on prior to the error pages screen capped. This tends to happen when I hit "confirm" after making changes of any kind (e.g., changes in preferences or setting the trip to number of days instead of 7 hour day default). I'm afraid I am not motivated to create an account for a bug report under the circumstances - I've described the issue to the best of my ability here and under the circumstances don't anticipate that having an account on the site to track the credentials of will serve any purpose for me. 

 

 

[agg221]

7 hours ago, Ken X said:

Second vote for the Corn Mill in Llangollen. As Ian says they don't give it away but we find the foods always good.

 

The Aquaduct Inn at Froncysylite is another we use. Last time we moored at Trefor basin and walked over the Ponty to it. The walk back in the dark was interesting 🙂 Particularly as it was January.

 

We often pop into the short Whitchurch arm overnight to shop and eat if timings are right for us.

Another vote for the Corn Mill and for a trip up the Whitchurch arm.

 

Alec