Window resealing

[PNB116]

Hi all,

 

I have some leaky windows and was wondering if anyone had an idea of what a boatyard might charge me to fix them (two windows removed and resealed)

 

many thanks

 

 

 

 

[Tony Brooks]

55 minutes ago, PNB116 said:

Hi all,

 

I have some leaky windows and was wondering if anyone had an idea of what a boatyard might charge me to fix them (two windows removed and resealed)

 

many thanks

 

 

The first question is where are they leaking, between glass and frame or frame and cabin side? The first will need the window taking out, stripping & rebuilding, any rust that is revealed dealt with and the refitting. In the second case there will be no need to strip the window.

[Jak]

You might try it yourself. Its not that hard to remove a window, tidy the inevitable rust, treat and paint, apply sealant and re-install. Not sure how your window frames are attached?  Mine are riveted on so had to drill out the old ones and rivet back on. Cheapo Homebase tool did the job and now no leaks 👍

 

As Tony says this assumes its not the windows themselves that are the problem…

 

[Tracy D'arth]

An impossible question to answer I am afraid.  Far too many variables and not enough information as to type of window, boat, location of leak, state of steel and paintwork etc.

 

Get a boatyard to look at the job and get a quotation not an estimate.

[Tony Brooks]

Personally, I would try several applications of Captain Tollys Creeping Crack cure (that is not a joke) on a dry day, in the hope it seals enough to get to the summer. Then the temperature will be high enough to do a good paint job (if needed) and dry for long enough to get the window out, the  rust dealt with and the window back in.

 

Note that as rust is about 8 to 10 times larger than the steel it formed from, if any rust under the frame is not dealt with then new rust will just push the frame away from the boat so you get more leaks.

[BEngo]

To re-seal the window after sorting the rust, use either a butyl sealant or  closed cell foam tape.  The butyl sealant will not set hard allowing 

the natural movement between an aluminium frame and the steelwork.

 

Foam tape seals but does not stick.  It is not so good on rough surface.

 

Do not use silicone sealant.  It will be too thin to accommodate the movement and it leaks very quickly.

 

N

[pete.i]

I used closed cell adhesive foam tape on my windows. My frames were screwed in and I had to reseal two windows. They weren't leaking when I got rid of that boat 5 yrears later.

 

[blackrose]

30 minutes ago, BEngo said:

To re-seal the window after sorting the rust, use either a butyl sealant or  closed cell foam tape.  

 

If you go down the sealant route try a clear one rather than black or white. Stixall crystal clear isn't a bad choice available from Screwfix, Toolstation, etc. It just means your cleanup of excess sealant that's squeezed out when you rivet or screw the window back in is much simpler. Also I think any screws or rivets need a tiny blob of sealant before they go in. You might have enough sealant on the underside of the frame to cover the screw thread, but if not there's a potential pathway for water. 

[DaveR]

Burton Boat charged me £260 to remove & reseal 4 x 3 foot wide windows whilst Legacy was in for blacking.

[PNB116]

Thanks to everyone. I will look into Captain Tolley’s crack (so to speak) it looks pretty good stuff. I will also ask at the local boatyard. 

4 hours ago, pete.i said:

I used closed cell adhesive foam tape on my windows. My frames were screwed in and I had to reseal two windows. They weren't leaking when I got rid of that boat 5 yrears later.

 

Did you find that the screws came out ok?  Worried that they will shear …

[rusty69]

26 minutes ago, PNB116 said:

Thanks to everyone. I will look into Captain Tolley’s crack (so to speak) it looks pretty good stuff. I will also ask at the local boatyard. 

Did you find that the screws came out ok?  Worried that they will shear …

A lot will depend on the material and condition of the screw, if steel and rusted, it's likely to shear if screwed into the steel? cabin side more readily than if screwed into a wooden batten beneath. 

 

The resealed window frame will only be as effective as how well the screws can be retightened, and the condition of the wood beneath. 

 

When I first did ours (over 20 years ago now), I used slightly bigger SS screws that had some bite into the cabin. 

 

I have recently done them again due to some leaking and opted for screwing and taping the cabin and using butyl rubber tape. I think if doing it again though in 20 years I will use the neoprene tape. 

 

I have had limited success with captain tolley on another boats leaky window frames. At best, it might buy you a couple of months until the better weather arrives, but is not a permanent solution. 

 

If all else fails, you could try duct tape on the outside. 

Edited January 2 by rusty69

[Tony Brooks]

44 minutes ago, PNB116 said:

Thanks to everyone. I will look into Captain Tolley’s crack (so to speak) it looks pretty good stuff. I will also ask at the local boatyard. 

Did you find that the screws came out ok?  Worried that they will shear …

 

My windows were screwed through the cabin side into the cabin side wooden framing, and I think they were chromed or zinc plated steel. They were philips or posi head. They were also initially a beast to unscrews, I think they had rusted into the cabin side. The screwdrivers just cammed out. My solution was to use a Dremel type tool to cut a slot across the head.  It seems the vibrations and heat produces made them far easier to remove. Do not forget, a few hard blows with a hammer on the screwdriver will often loosen screws. Also, if you can put a tool/grips/spanner onto the screwdriver shank you can put your body against the top of the handle to hold it in the screw and you can get extra twist to  help free it.

[Quattrodave]

55 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

If all else fails, you could try duct tape on the outside. 

 

For a temporary fix I've had really good success with 'greenhouse' repair tape.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264731774250

 

 

[rusty69]

1 minute ago, Quattrodave said:

 

For a temporary fix I've had really good success with 'greenhouse' repair tape.

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264731774250

 

 

Bit thinner than duct tape? 

[Quattrodave]

3 minutes ago, rusty69 said:

Bit thinner than duct tape? 

 

Very similar dimensions I believe, although it is pretty much invisible when stuck on.

Edit

Surprisingly tough stuff, cut it with scissors....

Edited January 2 by Quattrodave

[rusty69]

1 minute ago, Quattrodave said:

 

Very similar dimensions I believe, although it is pretty much invisible when stuck on.

Edit

Surprisingly tough stuff, cut it with scissors....

I'll give it a try. Ta. 

[Ianws]

Captain Tolleys sorted a minor leak around my portholes. Repeated a few times for good measure and still sound 2 years later. 

[David Mack]

3 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

My solution was to use a Dremel type tool to cut a slot across the head. 

Hard to do that though without also marking the aluminium window frame!

[blackrose]

11 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

My windows were screwed through the cabin side into the cabin side wooden framing, and I think they were chromed or zinc plated steel. 

 

Why on earth anyone uses ordinary zinc plated steel screws to go into or even through steel is beyond me. I know they're more expensive but in the grand scheme of boat building it's ridiculous they don't use stainless. It's such a common mistake but it's really unforgivable in my opinion. One of those well-known canopy companies used ordinary steel screws on a neighbour's boat after they'd paid several thousands for bow and stern canopies. After one winter they had all gone rusty along with the holes they'd drilled which they forgot to protect. They had streaks of rust all down their paintwork. Awful. Do these people not understand what happens to mild steel when it gets wet or do they just not care about the quality of their work once they disappear?

Edited January 3 by blackrose

[Tony Brooks]

8 hours ago, David Mack said:

Hard to do that though without also marking the aluminium window frame!

 

Yes, but small diameter "cutting" disks help no end, and as the frames were not coloured the odd over cut did not matter as long as the screw came out and did not snap. I used a lot of disks. It seemed easier than trying to drill each screw out.

 

I think I put two disks on one mandrel t get the required slot thickness.

Edited January 3 by Tony Brooks