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Posted

It is I’m new to this boating and I’ve got a complete fit out to do and was wondering ive the wood option is possible as I’ve just brought some for the sub floor and will have plenty leftover 

Posted

I don't see why you shouldn't be able to make a frame out of wood to support the flooring. A photo of the area in question would help.

1 minute ago, David Mack said:

Is this for a cruiser stern deck?

If the metal channels are already there why would you not use them to support the deck panels?

Good point, again, a photo would help

Posted

This thread seems to be going off at a tangent regarding spelling, grammar and punctuation, none of which really helps to answer the OP's original question.

I still say a photo of the area would help.

Posted
44 minutes ago, Flipflop said:

Meaning 

Well give us a clue what you are trying to achieve. Are you trying to put a deck over an engine inside a cabin, build something on a cruiser stern or what, is it a narrowboat, plastic cruiser, duch barge?

Posted
2 minutes ago, Flipflop said:

Cruiser stern I believe old springer

10673c02-776a-41cd-ace9-b07cb5c0584c.jpeg

Have you had the hull fully surveyed before spending money and time on the interior ? 

Posted

Yer it’s been surveyed had some plating done on it already most of the holes on the side been plated over and the holes below the waterline in the old gas locker been covered now 

IMG_1190.jpeg

Posted

To answer the original Q.

Wooden deck supports are entirely feasible, but, even if made of treated timber are liable to rot, particularly at joints.  They will also not channel water overboard, so the bilge will be wet when it rains

 

Steel channel, with good sized drain holes is a better bet.

 

N

Posted

Crikey, you've taken on a project, good luck with that, I'd be getting full personal protection kit, and start de rusting the hull next spring, cupped wire brushes are useful. Can you remove the windows and all the bits that could be worked on in a workshop, with proper tools, dry and warm.

Posted
12 hours ago, IanM said:

Maybe check your post for spelling and grammar before pressing submit. 

How ignorant! Rather than admitting your erroneous assumption, you become defensive. It's both laughable and pathetic.

  • Unimpressed 1
Posted

Cor, that's a job, well done for tackling it. In my opinion (frequently wrong) you will, as you say, have to keep the steel channel just to drain water away but tanalised wood - that's the greenish stuff - will be OK for a sub frame but it will eventually rot anywhere that the deck boards join over the wood.  "Cruiser sterns" do tend to suffer from problems with drainage and rot/rust unless they are carefully designed and built.

Posted

Coming on nicely mate.  
Out of interest have you taken timber out from the floor structure?  I’ve only taken out the first couple of feet at the bow so far and the 18mm ply floor seems to be just laid onto the steel bearers, and a bit like yours has no support around the hull perimeter (might all change once I get past the toilet and shower area).  I’m assuming I’ll need to add some supports around the hull for the new floor.  Even at 18mm I’d  expect a bit of flex without.  Either well protected timber or angle iron. 
 

what are your plans?  

11 minutes ago, Bee said:

Cor, that's a job, well done for tackling it. In my opinion (frequently wrong) you will, as you say, have to keep the steel channel just to drain water away but tanalised wood - that's the greenish stuff - will be OK for a sub frame but it will eventually rot anywhere that the deck boards join over the wood.  "Cruiser sterns" do tend to suffer from problems with drainage and rot/rust unless they are carefully designed and built.


In my day job I see 4” tantalised posts that can rot through in a couple of years if not allowed to dry out.  I’d be concerned about airflow where the floor is sat against them.  Will be fine if spaced off or well protected with bitumen or similar, though heat in the engine bay might mean there’s a better product for that location.  

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