cuthound Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 44 minutes ago, Rickent said: It really is all about the angle of the front and rear ropes, on our mooring we have plenty of boats passing all day and we rarely move, even when people don't slow down. And depth of water and canal bed profile. I moor to 4 bollards (fore and aft springs) on a canal with a shallow edge. When boats go past too fast the boat notably sinks and in summer can be beard scraping the bottom. The is little or no fore and aft movement because of the spring lines. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rickent Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 24 minutes ago, cuthound said: And depth of water and canal bed profile. I moor to 4 bollards (fore and aft springs) on a canal with a shallow edge. When boats go past too fast the boat notably sinks and in summer can be beard scraping the bottom. The is little or no fore and aft movement because of the spring lines. I agree there are many factors, but if people moor their boats in the correct way and tie up properly, movement can be kept to a minimum. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 (edited) There are several boaters here who obviously know how to moor correctly using 'spring lines', but maybe some pictures (Google Images) will help those who are not aware of what 'springs' are. There are a number of methods that all really achieve the same thing, some require a centre cleat on the boat, some will use a central mooring bollard / pin, and yes they do work on NB's although you may have to 'work-around' the angles to avoid the cabin and use separate pins on your springs (picture 2) Note that the fore and aft mooring lines should be at about 45 degrees to the boat bow and stern. How to tie up to a wall - particularly if you expect the water level to change (we dropped over 6 feet yesterday as they let some of the flood water coming off the mountains out thru the Sea-Lock) Edited August 17, 2020 by Alan de Enfield 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightwatch Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 (edited) More often than not I tie a spring line. Madness not to. ’Oh! No. I have inadvertantly contributed to this dreadful and pointless thread. Edited August 17, 2020 by Nightwatch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 21 minutes ago, Nightwatch said: More often than not I tie a spring line. Madness not to. ’Oh! No. I have inadvertantly contributed to this dreadful and pointless thread. It’s okay, it’s moved on from the miserable and petty OP now onto more interesting subjects 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightwatch Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 1 minute ago, WotEver said: It’s okay, it’s moved on from the miserable and petty OP now onto more interesting subjects Phew! And relax! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 34 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said: There are several boaters here who obviously know how to moor correctly using 'spring lines', but maybe some pictures (Google Images) will help those who are not aware of what 'springs' are. There are a number of methods that all really achieve the same thing, some require a centre cleat on the boat, some will use a central mooring bollard / pin, and yes they do work on NB's although you may have to 'work-around' the angles to avoid the cabin and use separate pins on your springs (picture 2) Note that the fore and aft mooring lines should be at about 45 degrees to the boat bow and stern. How to tie up to a wall - particularly if you expect the water level to change (we dropped over 6 feet yesterday as they let some of the flood water coming off the mountains out thru the Sea-Lock) All your illustrations are of boat shaped boats. Why are there no diagrams out there of how to tie a narrow boat up properly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 12 hours ago, MrsM said: Thank you for taking the time to explain that; it makes a lot of sense. I've read so many posts on FB in which people are moaning about boats passing too fast that it has made me a bit paranoid! Some moorers are, they should be in bricks and mortar Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 (edited) 8 minutes ago, David Mack said: All your illustrations are of boat shaped boats. Why are there no diagrams out there of how to tie a narrow boat up properly? The principles are exactly the same though. Its just a bit harder to achieve on a NB due to cleat placement and cabin sides. Edited August 17, 2020 by The Happy Nomad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan de Enfield Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 22 minutes ago, David Mack said: All your illustrations are of boat shaped boats. Why are there no diagrams out there of how to tie a narrow boat up properly? Sorry - I thought my reference to adapting the system to work around the cabin sides would be sufficient, but for those unable to understand the written word, a few pictures of long thin boats. From "Narrowboating for beginners" http://narrowboatingforbeginners.com/wordpress/mooring/3/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicknorman Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 (edited) Bearing in mind that wherever you go and whatever length your boat is, the spacing of mooring rings is always wrong and results in lines at 90degrees, we tend to use Alan’s 3 line solution, typically at the stern we have lines going fore and aft to constrain motion in those directions, and at the bow a line just to hold the bow against the bank. In fact at the back it is just one long line, from boat to ring back to boat and then on to other ring. We also dispensed with those annoying clanking and unreliable piling hooks the first year we got our boat (it came with them) and now only use goat chains, which are massively better. On piling where one can position the attachment points as required, normally just one bow and one stern line are required. Edited August 17, 2020 by nicknorman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy D'arth Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 On 15/08/2020 at 20:30, Goliath said: Don’t forget the Llangollen is a dead end trip, Chances are you will meet again ? and there’s a reminder; we do all keep meeting, so we should careful who we upset How did he get his boat to go uphill, its so steep, must have been going at a fair lick and then some. The return trip will be, erm, interesting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Captain Pegg Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 1 hour ago, Nightwatch said: More often than not I tie a spring line. Madness not to. ’Oh! No. I have inadvertantly contributed to this dreadful and pointless thread. I have never tied a spring line. Do the NHS offer assessments? JP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nightwatch Posted August 17, 2020 Report Share Posted August 17, 2020 15 minutes ago, Captain Pegg said: I have never tied a spring line. Do the NHS offer assessments? JP 16 minutes ago, Captain Pegg said: I have never tied a spring line. Do the NHS offer assessments? JP Only if you ask! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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