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New fuse box


Ploos1
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Help needed once again .......

Just received a new fuse box from Midland Chandlers and a bit of advice needed on how best to attach the battery feed to the live feed on the box. Photo attached which shows the box and the ring connector for “live”.

Also, is the twin 6mm2 cable sold by toolstation (looks multi strand) for household use ok for 12 v on the boat?

 

Thank you in anticipation.

 

109CB02F-E3B5-4BE8-A5DD-2F42460475A3.jpeg

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That is horrible.  The battery feed appears tiny, though it will  be OK for very small currents. What size are the fuses and what is the total load on the input?The absence of any insulation on the feed is also a potential (groan) problem should any one be poking around behind the panel, adding something, say.  Replacing it with something of adequate size and properly insulated would be a good idea.

 

  If forced to use it as is, I would put a ring terminal with the same size hole on the battery feed and bolt them together with a short bolt and a stiff nut then heat shrink on some sleeving over the connection.  Obvs you have to slide the sleeving on before bolting up?.

N

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Don't like to say it, especially with nothing but that photo to go on but to answer the question I wouldn't connect a main supply to it, I'd put it in the bin.

A neat way to do the job is to use double pole switches and put decent inline blade fuse holders on diagonally opposite terminals and supply and load on the other two.

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Thanks for the feedback. Was surprised Midland Chandlers sell these as Itoo thought it abit dodgy. Will be going back! Other boaters beware.

Thanks Jen-in-wellies but not too good with links etc!

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I have tried searching for the cable you refer to and can't see it on the website. Tell us the product number please. Otherwise can't say if its suitable.

 

Insulation wise mains stuff will be fine at 12V.  AS for the multi-core bit no idea unless we can see the specs.

 

6mm Conductor cross sectional area - I rather doubt it on for a modern narrow boat but you need to specify the run length (both legs) and the maximum current it will carry.

 

 

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15 minutes ago, frangar said:

For low voltage stuff you won’t go wrong with either Blue Sea or BEP as a brand. 

MC are between a rock and a hard place. 'Proper' kit is very expensive - but they must offer something for those who only want to do the job inexpensively. Tis one is OK-ish for light current applications and where it can be mounted in an appropriate container - which isn't going to happen.

What's really needed is a proper low voltage switch - fuse panel - you won't find those in MC or any other fresh water chandlers....

 

Whoops - oh yes they do  Swu=itch plus CB panel £30+

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8 minutes ago, Tony Brooks said:

I have tried searching for the cable you refer to and can't see it on the website. Tell us the product number please. Otherwise can't say if its suitable.

 

Insulation wise mains stuff will be fine at 12V.  AS for the multi-core bit no idea unless we can see the specs.

 

6mm Conductor cross sectional area - I rather doubt it on for a modern narrow boat but you need to specify the run length (both legs) and the maximum current it will carry.

 

 

TS  sell some 6mm armoured cable - but which dimension is 6mm need clarification (it may be for cookers) but not really suitable as it's not flexible - more of the old 7/.029 style) not suitable for boat use IM(H)O

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1 minute ago, OldGoat said:

TS  sell some 6mm armoured cable - but which dimension is 6mm need clarification (it may be for cookers) but not really suitable as it's not flexible - more of the old 7/.029 style) not suitable for boat use IM(H)O

That's why we need the part number. I found that but did not believe anyone would even think about using armoured cable inside a narrowboat (maybe a few very specific exceptions).

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Just now, Tony Brooks said:

That's why we need the part number. I found that but did not believe anyone would even think about using armoured cable inside a narrowboat (maybe a few very specific exceptions).

Perhaps the OP was so desparate - he ignored the "armoured"  part of the description! 

What is it - I assume it's 3-phase cable - but TS selling it?? - it's not really for that sort of market,surely.

 

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15 minutes ago, Ploos1 said:

The toolstation number is 87027 ..... definitely 6mm2 and not armoured. Accept probably no good for boats hence question.

That's twin & earth.  No, it's extremely stiff and unsuitable for the job.

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7 hours ago, Sir Nibble said:

Don't like to say it, especially with nothing but that photo to go on but to answer the question I wouldn't connect a main supply to it, I'd put it in the bin.

A neat way to do the job is to use double pole switches and put decent inline blade fuse holders on diagonally opposite terminals and supply and load on the other two.

 

I will also be looking for a new fuse board when I get around to the rewiring Belfast so desparately needs. Any recommendations as to the particular components I should be using if I choose to make up a panel myself?

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3 hours ago, David Mack said:

 

I will also be looking for a new fuse board when I get around to the rewiring Belfast so desparately needs. Any recommendations as to the particular components I should be using if I choose to make up a panel myself?

Yes, as said above. A decent rubber capped blade type fuse holder and double pole switches. It's neat and moisture resistant, uses fuses readily available in a wide range of ratings and the function of each is clearly obvious without labeling.

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17 minutes ago, Greg & Jax said:

Hi .

I currently have a 8 gang fuse board with trip switches on eBay. 

See piccs . 

£20 plus post .

I bought and never used it .

1588426011929.jpg

1588421584927.jpg

1588421602399.jpg

That's not quiet as dire as the OP's but still is rather carp with that looped across feed to all the fuses. I have doubts about that cable size if this is to be fitted to a modern narrowboat with high electrical demands. Certainly no good for a 12V fridge. In my view at least it needs a decent bus bar and a chunky  input terminal so you can do a decent job of fixing adequately sized cable to it.  Still you see loads of this sort of thing at shows etc. but that does not make it right - cheap to make, yes, but not right.

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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

That's not quiet as dire as the OP's but still is rather carp with that looped across feed to all the fuses. I have doubts about that cable size if this is to be fitted to a modern narrowboat with high electrical demands. Certainly no good for a 12V fridge. In my view at least it needs a decent bus bar and a chunky  input terminal so you can do a decent job of fixing adequately sized cable to it.  Still you see loads of this sort of thing at shows etc. but that does not make it right - cheap to make, yes, but not right.

As it happens - you've activated one of my hobby horses.

My boards (two voltages) have circuit breakers instead of switches and fuses and aprt from the one that controls the **splutter (which gets quite warm when starting) the 'do the job'.

No problem with the fridge freezer.

 

Ah, but

It's a 24v system - makes life a lot easier....

 

 

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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

That's not quiet as dire as the OP's but still is rather carp with that looped across feed to all the fuses. I have doubts about that cable size if this is to be fitted to a modern narrowboat with high electrical demands. Certainly no good for a 12V fridge. In my view at least it needs a decent bus bar and a chunky  input terminal so you can do a decent job of fixing adequately sized cable to it.  Still you see loads of this sort of thing at shows etc. but that does not make it right - cheap to make, yes, but not right.

I'm also struggling with the wiring here. I see no output points. There is a positive rail and a thin negative rail (presumably for the lamps) but where are the output tags? Maybe its just the photo not showing everything.

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Hi guys .

The output tags are there just the picc isn't the best .

My breakers are the same as these at the  back no problems in 16 years . 

But just as a thought wouldn't it be better to recommend one to the op rather than just point out the one he has is no good . 

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19 minutes ago, Greg & Jax said:

Hi guys .

The output tags are there just the picc isn't the best .

My breakers are the same as these at the  back no problems in 16 years . 

But just as a thought wouldn't it be better to recommend one to the op rather than just point out the one he has is no good . 

Already done in post #6. Unless the OP gives us the full spec of what he is after like number of "fuses", warning LEDs etc we can only recommend makes known to be reliable, not actual items.

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25 minutes ago, Greg & Jax said:

Cheers tony . 

Just may save him buying another one not quite up to the job .

Yours will in all probability do the job well enough as long a she can make a decent feed connection with the cable size required to feed all his appliances. Certainly better I suspect than the thing originally bought. Yours could probably be easily modified with some heavy copper strip and the soldering of female blades  to it to make it ideal.

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