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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Stephen Jeavons

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  1. Hi All, My 70ft Roger Fuller has a 2.0 litre marinised Mercedes engine (No, wouldn't have been my choice either). This is cooled by just the skin tank and it's not a pressurized system. It has a plastic header tank tee'd off the return from the skin tank. I suspect the thermostat must open at around 90C as that's where the temp gauge stops rising. The marinising included water cooled manifold and oil cooler. I haven't gone very far in the boat (Ricky to Uxbridge Dry dock and a few trips Ricky to Harefield Marina. Longest trip 4-5 hours in the summer) and whilst the engine room does get pretty warm, the temperature of the engine loiters at 90C all the time. When I asked Roger about the skin tank, he said it was well baffled ensuring that a good cooling flow is ensured throughout its length. Water to the skin tank is very hot and comes back barely lukewarm. Can the skin tank really be cooling that well or is there perhaps a blockage restricting flow? Reading this thread has got me nervous and I'm wondering if the engine should be running cooler. It's never been connected to the calorifier but I intend to do that soon. Thoughts anyone? Stephen
  2. Our back cabin will not be traditional. We intend re-purposing the space and will be altering the existing cupboard installation so we should have enough surrounding space. My worry is that the manufacturers of modern stoves stipulate that they don't work well and are inefficient unless a double skinned flu is installed. I wouldn't be surprised if they would refuse to honour any warranty issues too. I would prefer to keep my iron deck collar as it is already installed. I also take WotEver's point about the heat radiated from the pipe. It's a tricky one as the ceiling is timber and the narrowness of the space means that stove placement will not be too far from the wall. We are planning to fit heat-proof panels and provide an air gap as per the regs. It's this double-skinned flu thing that has me rattled. Stephen
  3. Hi All, Having settled on a small Chilly Penguin stove, I've been looking at the flu system. According to the manufacturer of the stove, new regs require that the deck collar be double skinned on all new installations (health and safety, etc.). The upstand on the stove is 127mm (5 inches). The Penguin flu (if I choose to buy theirs) has a 35mm air gap between the two skins making the overall diameter of the outer pipe in the region of 196mm (a shade under 8 inches). Seems like a very chunky pipe to me. Does anyone know if these sizes are typical or do you get flu system with smaller air gaps? If you do get narrower pipes do they violate some regulation or other? As it is, I cannot use the original iron deck collar in my boatsmans cabin (which has an outer diameter of 6" (150mm) ) as it is not double skinned. Comments/Suggestions? Stephen
  4. Hi, Yes in an ideal world the stove would be in the middle of the boat. Unfortunately, the layout of the boat prevents this. We have a traditional back cabin which once had a tiny cooking stove which was removed (before I bought the boat). This is the only space for a multi-fuel stove on this boat. Also the iron deck collar for the flu is already there so I'd like to use it. We intend converting the back cabin into a cosy lounge area.
  5. Yes, Steve Haywood also had a bit to say about the questionable usefulness of the Ecofan in the latest Canal Boat. I guess I won't be bothering with one after all. Thanks for all the suggestions guys.
  6. Anyone have any feedback about the Chilli Penguin or Hungry Penguin Stoves? https://chillipenguin.co.uk/chilli_products/canal-boat/
  7. The intention was to supplement heating in the main living area rather than totally provide complete heating for the boat. There are also radiators fed from an electrical flow boiler when at our home mooring and via diesel heater when away. It's a 70ft traditional style boat with central walkway all the way down the boat. Layout is largely contemporary. At the moment the back cabin is still traditional. My thinking was that heat from a stove at the back would permeate forward and reduce the need for the radiators to be on except in very severe weather. From what I'm hearing, this can't happen so we'll stick with just warming the back cabin, engine room and possibly take some chill off the bathroom. The main reason for the post was to get a feel for which brands are the best and which to avoid as there is a confusing selection available. I'm not looking to heat the radiators from the back cabin stove so just a simple multi-fuel stove.
  8. Thanks for the suggestions thus far. The stove will provide heating throughout the boat to some extent using an Ecofan but I take your point. It would need to be a small, low output unit if it isn't going to turn the boatsmans cabin into sauna. I like the idea of a small range as it suits the space but I don't see one with a glazed door
  9. Yes, that old chestnut again. I need a multi-fuel stove for my boatsmans cabin. What is the Rolls Royce to have and which is to be avoided (bad after sales service, quality of parts etc) Partner reckons it must have door with glass so flames can be seen etc. It will be fitted in the usual place next to the rear door so preferably not over-tall. Price not important but quality is. Suggestions? Stephen
  10. True, but my mains earth lead is not connected to the hull of the boat (the isolation transformer terminates it) whereas the wet ropes are. When National Rivers Authority did flood prevention improvements at our moorings they built large iron frameworks embedded deep into the ground then covered them in timber cladding. The iron bollards to which we are tied are bolted to the ironwork through the wood so these items I would say are well earthed. Anyway, I'm sure any stray currents across wet ropes to the hull of the boat will be minuscule. The aerial cable is a more serious item I feel especially with an terrestrial TV/FM aerial where the screen might be grounded to the mast which is earthed. (Usually the screen on an aerial array isn't earthed but you never know)
  11. Good information Tony. Another thought I had, more specifically for Residential boaters who may use a land-based satellite dish. Ensure that the screen on the coax cable to the dish is not bared and touching any land-based metal on the way to the dish as this may effectively nullify any galvanic isolation device or isolation transformer by supplying land based earth via the coax and TV to the earth of the boat (the coax jack on the TV grounds the screen to the chassis which also grounds the earth from the 3-pin plug). Maybe worth periodically putting a meter across boat and land-based earth to see that they are still well isolated from one another. What about wet ropes across an iron bollard (a can of worms I suspect) Stephen
  12. Consort No 24 🙂 Would you say that list is complete?
  13. Thanks for the info and extra photo Mark. What is the name and RF number of your boat? Stephen
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