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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Stephen Jeavons

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  1. I have a lock-up full of the stuff. Waiting to build my new Meccano-shed in the Spring 😉
  2. So, no hot water from engine because it's air cooled and NO ALTERNATOR. The only way to keep 20 batteries charged is with your solar power when you're out and about. Might work in the Sahara, not sure about the UK. I would say an alternator is required? What about a solar water heater (like they stick on the roofs of houses), anyone tried that?
  3. I have recently installed an electric flow boiler. This uses a domestic style mid-position valve, cylinder-stat, room-stat and regular programmer (Danfoss). The flow boiler I'm using is a 6kW unit which I de-tuned to 3kW by disconnecting the second heating element (it has two 3kW elements). I have the hot water heated twice a day whilst the heating is on continuously with 3 radiators + towel rail. Once up to temperature, the boiler automatically cycles on and off to keep the heat flow constant. Works like a charm, basically fit and forget. It is also possible to get a 4kW unit so presumably one could de-tune to say 2kW with that one too. Once winter is over I can just turn the room-stat down and the system will continue to provide hot water. Will post a photo of my install if you're interested. Stephen I would just add that I have a 32A shore supply. Also this system by-passes the inverter as it would kill the batteries if power died. If away from the home mooring then I use the diesel heater or the engine. Unless you used a 2kW heater as I suggested above, you would be pushing it with a 16A shore supply. https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/santon-electric-flow-boiler-6-kw/
  4. ... and as I have done with my valve above. Different solution, same effect. True, but if you need to kill bugs in the hot water tank, chances are you're already drinking them from the cold tank. No house I've ever owned has had the hot water cylinder hotter than about 55-60C. The motive for having a scalding hot water tank in this context is mainly so the hot water will last till the next heating cycle. I don't have that problem as I'm on shore power 99% of the time. My flow boiler does it auto-magically.
  5. I'm using one of these with power from the engine key-switch via a cylinder-stat. Temperature can be set as high as I want. You could wire without the cylinder-stat (although you'll probably need a relay to close the valve as it needs to be powered to either open or close). Stops heat transfer back to the engine from the calorifier https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Motorized-Ball-Valve-1-2-3-4-1-Electrical-Valve-3-5Wire-DN15-20-25-145PSI/123299613819?hash=item1cb53acc7b:m:m6Dx1h3PsZm4sbz_DnV-xqA
  6. Hi, Yes, I know off-grid boaters and continuous cruisers like to have stonking hot calorifier water. My boat spends most of its time at a Res mooring with only the occasional cruise so I haven't had the problem of limited hot water. Unfortunately, retrofitting a thermostatic valve is going to be tricky in my installation due to a lack of space in the airing cupboard so I'm going to have to make do unless the requirement becomes critical in the future. My calorifier cupboard already looks like a steam-punk sculpture as I have a 3-port valve on the other coil along with all its pipework. If I ever go for a long cruise anywhere, I may yet have to do the installation of a thermostatic mixer. Thanks for the hint. Stephen
  7. I fitted a 12V shut-off valve to stop this from happening. Opens when engine is started and closes when engine is turned off. It also closes if the calorifier gets too hot (have a domestic style cylinder-stat to limit temp to 60C)
  8. All domestic central heating systems I've ever seen have the 3-port valve going in at the top of the hot water cylinder (i.e the supply from the boiler via the pump) with the return at the bottom. Why should a boat's calorifier (different name, same thing) be any different?
  9. OP has said he isn't keen on free standing radiators
  10. Well, you could just anchor the top of the oil rad with a loop of cord/string to a simple eye on the wall to stop any possibility of it tipping over. At just £15, it's worth trying one out. It can always be used elsewhere if you aren't happy
  11. Until I installed central heating, I used a couple of these. Takes the chill off and very economical. They have their own thermostat. Just 650W https://www.dunelm.com/product/650w-5-fin-oil-filled-radiator-1000153083?defaultSkuId=30650998
  12. Does anyone make a smaller marine heater, say 3 or 4kW? (water not air) Another question: Is the water pump built in to the Webasto or does it require an external one like the Eberspacher? Edit: Just noticed the pump in the above kit so my question is answered
  13. Yes, I could run an extra cable if I needed to and did consider doing so at one point when I was installing the flow boiler as it was a 6kW unit. However the Isolation transformer is rated at 7kW and I didn't want to gobble up all its capacity with the central heating or have to by-pass the IT. Instead I de-tuned the boiler (it has two heating elements so I disconnected one making it a 3kW unit). This left more than enough capacity for the rest of the boat (4kW). I find 3kW adequately heats the 3 radiators as well as the calorifier. 😉
  14. So long as I don't exceed 60A I can draw as little current as I need. 32A more than covers my needs. Most marinas only over 16A which limits your usage to around 3kW
  15. Three moorings here, each has a cabinet with smart meter and usual domestic power board with double pole master switch, RCD and MCB's. Pay for electricity directly to utility company. Same setup as in any house. (Each boat has a street address and mailbox)
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