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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

Stephen Jeavons

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  1. Tesco at Rickmansworth has also gained permanent boats despite the sign saying they're for shoppers only with no overnight stays. (One such boat is even encroached on the Winding Hole adjacent to the store). As it's not on the tow path, presumably CRT rules don't apply. I believe Tesco rent the land but the canal-side belongs to 3 Rivers District Council who don't seem to care. It's a shame as stopping off to get stuff for CC boaters has become quite difficult
  2. Answers: 1) 10mm cables (both legs) for both appliances and each fed from its own 15A breaker. Machines <6m from batteries 2) Plenty of ventilation below to heat exchanger which is underneath and near the front. Machine's own fan blows in this direction not up the back (These are integrated units). Plenty of ventilation to the rear behind adjacent cupboards. 3) I have this manual. It is general and doesn't include any specific guidance or instruction for units with coils under the front. Specific installation for the integrated units is notably missing. Had I known that an array of extra fans were needed to make up for the way it was designed, I would have included them. I used to fit kitchens in a past life and have never known any integrated fridge or freezer to require special vents in worktops or additional fans. The design of these AMICA appliances is flawed
  3. I made the big mistake of buying (rebadged) Shoreline integrated fridge and integrated freezer when we refitted the kitchen 2 years ago. They have the heat exchanger under the front of the units so rising heat goes straight back into cabinet above. Brilliant Eastern European design (NOT!). Quality of the cabinets is decidedly poor and flimsy. Compressors run for long periods. Documentation is pathetic and no decent installation guidance. Never again! As soon as they die (I can't see them lasting another year) will replace with 240V items and vent them appropriately.
  4. Beats working for a living doesn't it?
  5. We fitted a 3/4 bath with shower over when we re-fitted Consort. We're on a Res mooring with our own water supply. We love our bath and use it 90% of the time. I wouldn't be without one. The key is having plenty of hot water. We have a domestic style 3KW flow boiler which replenishes the Calorifier to full heat in just over an hour. Same system heats the boat's rads. When under way, engine heats the water in the usual way. Before we installed the flow boiler, with only the 1.25KW immersion, it would take 2-3 hours to re-heat the hot water. We fill the water tank roughly once a week (not sure how big it is). If you only have 16A mains available or are cruisers then probably best to stick with a shower
  6. I'm also struggling with the wiring here. I see no output points. There is a positive rail and a thin negative rail (presumably for the lamps) but where are the output tags? Maybe its just the photo not showing everything.
  7. I fitted one of these. They're great. The digital gauge (left hand one in the link) has an LED back light so easy to see if fitted somewhere dark. My problem is the lack of a fuel gauge. Looking to fit one of those at some point
  8. Sometimes we forget how lucky we are to have the NHS. It's overstretched because the country has too many people generally and certainly too many old farts like us in it. Otherwise it's a fantastic service. Poorer people in the States and elsewhere who cannot afford the treatment simply get none.
  9. Another trick to loosen an otherwise tight screw is to give it a jerk in the direction of TIGHTENING it. This often cracks the corrosion (or gunk) making it easier to loosen in the correct direction without damaging the head. However a nice new well-fitting screwdriver is a must.
  10. I have a lock-up full of the stuff. Waiting to build my new Meccano-shed in the Spring 😉
  11. So, no hot water from engine because it's air cooled and NO ALTERNATOR. The only way to keep 20 batteries charged is with your solar power when you're out and about. Might work in the Sahara, not sure about the UK. I would say an alternator is required? What about a solar water heater (like they stick on the roofs of houses), anyone tried that?
  12. I have recently installed an electric flow boiler. This uses a domestic style mid-position valve, cylinder-stat, room-stat and regular programmer (Danfoss). The flow boiler I'm using is a 6kW unit which I de-tuned to 3kW by disconnecting the second heating element (it has two 3kW elements). I have the hot water heated twice a day whilst the heating is on continuously with 3 radiators + towel rail. Once up to temperature, the boiler automatically cycles on and off to keep the heat flow constant. Works like a charm, basically fit and forget. It is also possible to get a 4kW unit so presumably one could de-tune to say 2kW with that one too. Once winter is over I can just turn the room-stat down and the system will continue to provide hot water. Will post a photo of my install if you're interested. Stephen I would just add that I have a 32A shore supply. Also this system by-passes the inverter as it would kill the batteries if power died. If away from the home mooring then I use the diesel heater or the engine. Unless you used a 2kW heater as I suggested above, you would be pushing it with a 16A shore supply. https://www.wolseley.co.uk/product/santon-electric-flow-boiler-6-kw/
  13. ... and as I have done with my valve above. Different solution, same effect. True, but if you need to kill bugs in the hot water tank, chances are you're already drinking them from the cold tank. No house I've ever owned has had the hot water cylinder hotter than about 55-60C. The motive for having a scalding hot water tank in this context is mainly so the hot water will last till the next heating cycle. I don't have that problem as I'm on shore power 99% of the time. My flow boiler does it auto-magically.
  14. I'm using one of these with power from the engine key-switch via a cylinder-stat. Temperature can be set as high as I want. You could wire without the cylinder-stat (although you'll probably need a relay to close the valve as it needs to be powered to either open or close). Stops heat transfer back to the engine from the calorifier https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Motorized-Ball-Valve-1-2-3-4-1-Electrical-Valve-3-5Wire-DN15-20-25-145PSI/123299613819?hash=item1cb53acc7b:m:m6Dx1h3PsZm4sbz_DnV-xqA
  15. Hi, Yes, I know off-grid boaters and continuous cruisers like to have stonking hot calorifier water. My boat spends most of its time at a Res mooring with only the occasional cruise so I haven't had the problem of limited hot water. Unfortunately, retrofitting a thermostatic valve is going to be tricky in my installation due to a lack of space in the airing cupboard so I'm going to have to make do unless the requirement becomes critical in the future. My calorifier cupboard already looks like a steam-punk sculpture as I have a 3-port valve on the other coil along with all its pipework. If I ever go for a long cruise anywhere, I may yet have to do the installation of a thermostatic mixer. Thanks for the hint. Stephen
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