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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble

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Stephen Jeavons

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  1. Maybe 150mA. Tain't that much. What does your fan draw?
  2. Half an Amp isn't much. Good plan to connect a relay and switch the fans through that then you can have as many fans as you like
  3. Don't be deceived into thinking the vendor is in the UK either. It says item location "London". That's just to make it more attractive to UK buyers. At that price it will come from China possibly via a devious route. I ordered something supposedly from Leicester last Friday due for delivery on Monday. It's now Wednesday and I'm getting courier emails from Germany. They lie to attract business. In all things, you get what you pay for. Try Vehicle Wiring Products (www.vehicleproducts.co.uk), they have a range.
  4. I hear you, I just wasn't keen on the cylinder getting scorchingly hot and then reheating the engine once moored up. How do you stop that from happening?
  5. This is the sort of thing I was thinking of controlled from say a domestic style cylinder-stat? https://www.solidrop.net/product/12v-motorised-ball-valve-brass-2-way-3-4-dn20-electric-shut-off-valve-3-wires-cr03-wiring-for-water-control.html Anyone done this or is there an easier way? Thoughts? Stephen
  6. Hmm! I was thinking more of something to stop the engine heating the calorifier once the latter reaches a temp of say 50C
  7. On a slightly different topic. Can someone recommend a thermostatic valve that I can use on the engine-heating coil of the calorifier to prevent the latter from getting too hot when cruising? I assume it would be an electrical device (12V) to shut off when a desired water temp is reached in the calorifier? Stephen
  8. Understood Tony. My NRV is very close to the inlet of the calorifier hence my reason for fitting the EV off of the original drain plug point rather than on the inlet or outlet of the calorifier. The reason I asked the question was... In an open vented system, pressure is higher at the bottom due to the head of water. However, I figured that in a pressurized vessel the EV can be fitted anywhere. (so long as it's downstream of the NRV)
  9. Confirms my thinking. Thanks a lot. Stephen
  10. I'm about to fit a EV to my calorifier but due to the positioning of the NRV and supply shut-off valve on the inlet, do not have space to install a Tee for the EV. I figured on replacing the drain cock with a Tee piece, screwing the drain into one side of that and having the EV connected to the other. Same difference right?? (Water in a pressurized cylinder etc..) Stephen
  11. Now you know. The Regs are open to interpretation like so many things
  12. Fair enough. I have to confess, all my arctic-blue ring main cable terminates without ferrules at each double socket as well as the MCCB. Has anyone actually failed a BSS test for this omission? Do they check? Stephen
  13. When I read this, I take it to mean that rather than wrap wires around a stud and tighten down with a nut or wrap around a screw, one should crimp the wire in a tag and screw this down with the screw or nut (as you would on a battery terminal). This is different to shoving a wire in a hole and tightening a screw down on the wire or ferrule (like you would do with a 3-pin plug or chocolate block). I don't see the latter as being anywhere near as dodgy or error prone as the former. The wording is vague but in my opinion refers to wrapping wires around screws or studs. Otherwise nearly every 3-pin plug on your boat is non-compliant. Stephen
  14. Here's a photo of the broken studs. One broke flush with the clamp, the other broke further in. Both are Negative terminals. The good Pos one is in the photo for comparison
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