Nailers

[pearley]

Any recommendations for a low price electric nailer that will go through 5 mm oak trim?

[mrsmelly]

Saves on lectric 

[Ryeland]

Veneer pins, pin hammer, then punch below surface and fill holes. The filler will never be the same colour, but with veneer pins the holes are so small it doesn't notice.

 

Richard

[pearley]

Thanks, but I know that. A hammer is not always easy, especially when working cackhanded and close to another surface.

 

So, nailers?

Edited May 1, 2020 by pearley

[WotEver]

I have one that looks just like this Draper, and it works just fine for this kind of work.  Occasionally, if it hits a knot or something you might have to finish off with a pin punch but 90% of the pins go in flush.

https://www.toolstation.com/draper-21034-nailer-and-stapler/p91686

[Jen-in-Wellies]

2 hours ago, mrsmelly said:

 

Saves on lectric 

Fixed that for you.

[dor]

I’ve got a Tacwise which is good, but will not work off my 1800 PSW inverter or my 2.2KW generator.  I assume they take a very high current for a very short period, as the rating is well below the inverter’s rating.

 

 What I did use when fitting out (in 2007) was a cordless one from Wickes.  It had a very substantial NiCad battery.

once fired, just treat like a panel pin, I.e. punch in and cover with filler.

 I imagine there is a much better choice now for cordless ones.

[WotEver]

23 minutes ago, dor said:

 I imagine there is a much better choice now for cordless ones.

My recent Google found loads.  Sensible prices too.

[Slim]

2 hours ago, pearley said:

Thanks, but I know that. A hammer is not always easy, especially when working cackhanded and close to another surface.

 

So, nailers?

STAINLESS STEEL veneer pins and a pin push tool  finished off with a thin pin punch . Whatever you do do not use mild steel nails of any description in oak. Another, and neater way, is to glue all the trim on with wood glue with the trim held in place with veneer pins until the glue is dry then pins pulled out . The resulting holes are much smaller than punched in pins and the holes easier to fill. I used the glue method throughout when fitting out, much neater. 

[nbfiresprite]

5 hours ago, Ryeland said:

Veneer pins, pin hammer, then punch below surface and fill holes. The filler will never be the same colour, but with veneer pins the holes are so small it doesn't notice.

 

Richard

Make your own filler, Take a offcut and make a pile of sawdust add a drop of pva, Mix together into a thick paste. Then fill the holes, once dry, sand flat with 240 sandpaper. Add finsh of your choice.      

[WotEver]

On 01/05/2020 at 18:05, pearley said:

Any recommendations for a low price electric nailer that will go through 5 mm oak trim?

Lo and behold, an offer dropped through my mailbox today:

https://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+power-tools-nailing-electric-nailers-staplers-electric-18g-nailer-and-stapler-rutlands+rw1007

[pearley]

1 hour ago, WotEver said:

Lo and behold, an offer dropped through my mailbox today:

https://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+power-tools-nailing-electric-nailers-staplers-electric-18g-nailer-and-stapler-rutlands+rw1007

Thanks for that. I have been reading various reviews done of which state that the current when firing, albeit very brief is quite high which is no problem with a household ring main but might be on a boat with sockets, in my case, fused at 16A. I've emailed one of the major manufacturers to ask.

[David Schweizer]

On 01/05/2020 at 20:19, pearley said:

Thanks, but I know that. A hammer is not always easy, especially when working cackhanded and close to another surface.

 

So, nailers?

I would suggest using a push pin tool to fit small panel pins rather than fuss about trying to hold the pin straight whist deploying a hammer which can result in the pin being bent. The tool holds the pin in the tubular recess at the end, the pin point is then located into the correct position and the tool pressed so that the pin is forced into the panel, The tool is spring loaded, so when the pressure is taken off most of the pin will be fixed, requiring only a light tap with a pin hammer to push it home, use a pin punch if you wsh to recess it and fill as suggested by others above.

 

I have an old traditional push pin tool  almost identical to this one, but modern plastic handled ones are still available.

 

                     

 

 

Edited May 4, 2020 by David Schweizer

[Jen-in-Wellies]

51 minutes ago, pearley said:

Thanks for that. I have been reading various reviews done of which state that the current when firing, albeit very brief is quite high which is no problem with a household ring main but might be on a boat with sockets, in my case, fused at 16A. I've emailed one of the major manufacturers to ask.

So it sounds like on a boat you need a battery powered one, rather than a mains one.Fortunately, it has already been invented.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e39nFQrTsXg

 

 

[ditchcrawler]

2 hours ago, pearley said:

Thanks for that. I have been reading various reviews done of which state that the current when firing, albeit very brief is quite high which is no problem with a household ring main but might be on a boat with sockets, in my case, fused at 16A. I've emailed one of the major manufacturers to ask.

If its fitted with a 13 amp plug top it should be OK on a 16 amp supply 

[pearley]

13 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

If its fitted with a 13 amp plug top it should be OK on a 16 amp supply 

You might think that but would a very quick high current spike trip a 16A MCB rather that a relatively slow blow 13A fuse?

1 hour ago, Jen-in-Wellies said:

So it sounds like on a boat you need a battery powered one, rather than a mains one.Fortunately, it has already been invented.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e39nFQrTsXg

 

 

There are also gas powered ones but both very expensive.

[dor]

2 hours ago, pearley said:

Thanks for that. I have been reading various reviews done of which state that the current when firing, albeit very brief is quite high which is no problem with a household ring main but might be on a boat with sockets, in my case, fused at 16A. I've emailed one of the major manufacturers to ask.

See my post above and my personal experience of this issue.

 

ETA: most boat yards and similar use one on an airline from a compressor.

Edited May 4, 2020 by dor

[cuthound]

3 hours ago, pearley said:

You might think that but would a very quick high current spike trip a 16A MCB rather that a relatively slow blow 13A fuse?

There are also gas powered ones but both very expensive.

 

It's the other way around.

 

Mains plug top fuses blow instantaneously at twice the rated current. Typical MCB's trip at 3-5 times therated current.

 

Fuses are much more sensitive to overloads, unless of the "slow blow" or "motor rated" types.

[nbfiresprite]

5 hours ago, pearley said:

Thanks for that. I have been reading various reviews done of which state that the current when firing, albeit very brief is quite high which is no problem with a household ring main but might be on a boat with sockets, in my case, fused at 16A. I've emailed one of the major manufacturers to ask.

Most electric nail guns push the nail in using a high power spring to drive the hammer. An electric motor is used to compress the spring. When you pull the trigger, the spring is suddenly released, creating the force needed to drive the nail into wood. The motor that compresses the spring is rated between 800 and 1000watts

[jddevel]

Hire a Paslode from your hire shop. I`ve a couple (was in the trade) and wouldn`t be without even though retired. A framing nailer is probably your best bet. Or predrill and then hammer and punch. Saves the pins bending. Regarding filling I`ve successfully used a powdered filler (sandable) which although white if you get a darker coloured wood filler and then gradually mix the two together until the right shade is obtained.