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Removing moulded wet room tray


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Could anybody advise me on how to remove a moulded wet room tray? It seems like perhaps it's glued to the toilet tank? I've removed all screws and cracked all the sealant around the edges, but it's refusing to budge. Does anybody know how they are generally attached? Thanks!

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3 hours ago, blythecooper said:

Could anybody advise me on how to remove a moulded wet room tray? It seems like perhaps it's glued to the toilet tank? I've removed all screws and cracked all the sealant around the edges, but it's refusing to budge. Does anybody know how they are generally attached? Thanks!

Is it fixed down via the waste/plug hole?

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7 hours ago, Murflynn said:

destructively or conservingly?

Anything to get it out! I was thinking about getting a multi cutter and seeing if I could cut the front edge and try with a chisel from that side. My neighbour looked at it yesterday and said that it was plastic welded so the joins will be strong.

 

@welly It's the bit that the plug and waste water pipe sits in rather than the top shower tray (which seemed to be just lots of small tiles on a flexible membrane) if that makes sense..

 

@Boater Sam Will take a photo and post it!

Edited by blythecooper
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41 minutes ago, Boater Sam said:

Never seen one like that. Just smash it up.

 

Looks to me as though it has been fabricated in situ. Very rare.

 

Smashing it up is going to be impossible. I took a fabricated shower tray like this out of one of my boats and it is fantastically strong. Cutting it up will be necessary in my opinion. 

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1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

This seem to be in a GRP boat. Could this be part of the inner hull moulding? If so it will need cutting out because the inner moulding can be almost as large as the hull itself.

Lets hope its the inner then and not the hull

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3 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

This seem to be in a GRP boat. Could this be part of the inner hull moulding? If so it will need cutting out because the inner moulding can be almost as large as the hull itself.

 

It's a regular steel narrow boat, if somewhat quirky in the fitout.

 

(I called in the other day to see if I could help with the calorifier problem.)

 

Edited by Mike the Boilerman
Punctuation!
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Mike, you're my friend. Did we know this? I suppose you are a nice chap.

 

Remove one septic tank and the rest are easy. I've done one now. And, I got an ice lolly. Yum yum!

 

Blythe, you're on your way to a new interior. Nice to meet you, once I'd twigged onto who you are. If I can help let me know. 

  • Greenie 1
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Just now, Nightwatch said:

Mike, you're my friend. Did we know this? I suppose you are a nice chap.

Have I just been transported to an alternative reality...?

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Bilge is now exposed, I've scraped back rust and will vactan and red oxide.. Is there a reason why bilge paint wasn't used on top of the red oxide the first time? Just a cost/time thing? My understanding is that red oxide is porous, so surely it's not ideal to protect against condensation?

 

Also, the plastic tray and toilet tank were sat on a thick rubber mat which was directly on the bilge. I'm sure that didn't help the moisture situation either.. I'm going to put in wooden floor joists. From what I've read, they would ideally sit on raised metal battens, but there is nothing in the room that they can sit on. Does anybody have any advice about how to go about this? Wood straight onto bilge? Should I protect the wood at all?

 

Any advice greatly appreciated!

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3 hours ago, blythecooper said:

Should I protect the wood at all?

Buy tantalised roofing lath from a builders merchant. (It won’t be Tanalith these days for HSE reasons but the result is the same). It’ll outlast any treatment you could apply by hand. 

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