Bromleyxphil Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Hi guys after viewing the sailaway the other night and visiting Crick the windows didn't work for me. I have started to put my first thoughts onto paper so would appriciate your "constructive criticism" i am looking at a 57foot semi trad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGoat Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 To me - an ignorant southerner - two single beds - even if foldaway, is asking for trouble if tight up against the forward bulkhead. Methinks if the wardrobes were there instead of against the bathroom wall, it might be better. If the weather comes in (open door, rain in - folks in wet weather gear etc) - then the beds could get wet. Again, having the beds a bit further back gives 'you' more chance to get down and shake off some of the moisture. The 'companion way' will be narrow and visually unappealing. We have a wardrobe and two small CoDs up forward then a fixed double - and that works well... A fire mounted centrally is somewhat unusual.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robbo Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 You might want a side hatch where the table is for gazing out of, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matty40s Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Two single beds seriously compromises your resale chances. I have moved quite a few to brokers and they always sit there a lot longer than boats with a conventional bed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromleyxphil Posted June 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 The idea with the beds is they slide out to make a double at night but slide back for walkway in the day. Breakfast bar when just two of us but fold up table to make room for 4. Like I said this is my first thoughts so any advice is welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 (edited) 8 minutes ago, Bromleyxphil said: The idea with the beds is they slide out to make a double at night but slide back for walkway in the day. How do the cushions work in day and night mode? Where does the bedding go during the day? And why side doors in the bathroom? Having side doors right opposite the breakfast bar doesn't give much room for steps. Might be better to move them down into the main saloon. Having portholes all down one side and a combination of portholes and windows on the other is an unusual approach. Edited June 2, 2017 by David Mack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
efanton Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 (edited) why the walk-through bathroom when there is bags of space? Personally, I would put the toilet where the bedroom door is and move the bedroom door to where the toilet is. that would then allow you to partition off the bathroom completely and still have enough space for a corridor. Nice to have a bit of privacy while you are in the bathroom and possibly going to prevent a embarrassing moment when you have guests aboard. Because you will have moved the door the two separate wardrobes wont work. I would replace them with a large double wardrobe. Space is premium on a boat and I will bet you will get far more clothes into a double wardrobe than you will in two small singles. Old Goat has a point about the bed being against the bow door. Personally I would have a double bed against the bathroom wall and instead of central bow doors have them to one side so that a large double wardrobe and possibly a chest of drawers against the bow wall. What do you gain by two single beds? all I can see is more hassle setting them up, more laundry, and the inevitable falling into the crack if the two beds are joined to form a double. Edited June 2, 2017 by efanton Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyG Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 I watch lots of the Rugby Boats videos, on youtube, there are loads of great ideas, especially when they are professionally fitted out, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Similar layout in this vid that I just stumbled across: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromleyxphil Posted June 2, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 Thanks guys for taking time to comment, I will work through all comments and suggestions and come up with version 2,3,4 and more. I will then try to justify my choices on some final design, with a bit of luck you will all still be with me by then. thanks again Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RLWP Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 I think in the same space we have a fixed double bed, a shower room, two six seat tables (convertible to double beds) and a galley. We took out four bunks to fit the fixed double bed Richard Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jess-- Posted June 2, 2017 Report Share Posted June 2, 2017 (edited) with regard to the bathroom.... the layout you have may work with a cassette type toilet but if using a pump-out system then you will have to go down the macerator route and squeeze the tank in under one of the beds. for contrast below is the layout of the rear of my boat (which you could easily reverse to suit your boat) the bathroom layout works well with the whole room acting as a wet room (with a shower curtain shielding the sink & toilet) the toilet is a dump-thru pump out with the tank underneath the whole of the toilet, sink and cupboard at the foot of the bed (the cupboard is actually a wardrobe). the tiny square missing from the bathroom (top left) is where the alde heating system is fitted on my boat Edited June 2, 2017 by Jess-- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LadyG Posted June 3, 2017 Report Share Posted June 3, 2017 I watch lots of the Rugby Boats videos, on youtube, there are loads of great ideas, especially when they are professionally fitted out, In this boat, the woodwork has darkwood detail, which is a modern look but reflects the traditional red paint detailing on working boats. It is worth spending cash on the basics, the basic problem withall owner fitouts. is that they went to B^Q rather than making everything with real wood. See narrowboathelen for some building tips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromleyxphil Posted June 5, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 Still refining my plans, do the following measurements look like a realistic starting point for the internal measurements to work with? I can then fine tune when I find my builder. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted June 5, 2017 Report Share Posted June 5, 2017 Your widths look slightly on the mean side to me, so a good safe starting point I'd say. Height entirely depends on the builder, but I'd have thought that 6' 8" seems somewhat optimistic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg Posted June 19, 2017 Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 STOVE POSITION (I am presuming you mean fire/heater not cooking stove) Not sure what sort of fire/heater you intend to install but 2 possible problems Position flush with shower room door means you will be brushing against the fire when you go from lounge to bathroom. For my quadrant shower I used a double bulkhead separated with 2x2 this gave me a void to run the shower head pipe work in. If you were to do this and then installed the fire then you would have no way of accessing the pipe work if and when you had a problem. Also where do you intend placing the shower pump (whale gulper?) for ease of access I would suggest where you have the storage next to the fire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg Posted June 19, 2017 Report Share Posted June 19, 2017 WASHER POSITION to use the washer in its current position you will not be able to sit it on the floor due to the steps being in the way. You would have to raise it about 3ft which would you leave your with an awkward to use cubby hole beneath it. BETTER USE OF THAT SPACE? Currently you have no place to hang your coats, wet weather gear etc and also no place to keep your ironmongery and cruising essential e.g windlass, keys, tourch, maps etc. I have a open cupboard for these in the position where your washer is with a shelf approx 18inch from the top for keeping touring essentials to hand. Outdoor wear is hung beneath this shelf. Not sure where you can place the washer maybe on top of or below the fridge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 2 more thoughts CALORIFIER where do you intend installing your calorifier? Will it be vertical or horizontal? (if I was to do mine again I would install it vertically) Just had another thought that it could be installed under the washer in the position you have drawn. This does leave you with the problem, as mentioned previously of no cupboard for outdoor clothes and touring gear SIMPLIFIED PLUMBING It is easier to install plumbing if all plumbed devices are on one side, this makes for an easy pipe install. Simple way to achieve this would be to either reverse the shower room layout or the kitchen layout I. E have the shower on the same side as the bathroom basin, kitchen sink, washer and calorifier. If you are doing the work yourself this makes life a lot easier. If you find this aesthetically unpleasant then I am sure others can give you tips on the best way to run pipe work on both sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuthound Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 We had a horizontal calorifier in the engine compartment of our last shareboat. Never again, whenever the system was drained and refilled the horizontal calorifier got airlocks which were a bug**r to bleed, and because it located outside of the main cabin of the boat it lost quite a lot of heat overnight, compared to a vertical calorifier located within the cabin. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reg Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 42 minutes ago, cuthound said: We had a horizontal calorifier in the engine compartment of our last shareboat. Never again, whenever the system was drained and refilled the horizontal calorifier got airlocks which were a bug**r to bleed, and because it located outside of the main cabin of the boat it lost quite a lot of heat overnight, compared to a vertical calorifier located within the cabin. Fully endorse the "never again" sentiment. I made a double error in that with my boat being slightly nose up the "bottom" of the calorifier is higher than the end with all the gubbins and fittings. Never really held the heat very well overnight. First rule of calorifier installation The Top should be at the Top and the Bottom should be at the Bottom. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 51 minutes ago, reg said: First rule of calorifier installation The Top should be at the Top and the Bottom should be at the Bottom. Second rule - it should be in the cabin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OldGoat Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 1 hour ago, reg said: Fully endorse the "never again" sentiment. I made a double error in that with my boat being slightly nose up the "bottom" of the calorifier is higher than the end with all the gubbins and fittings. Never really held the heat very well overnight. First rule of calorifier installation The Top should be at the Top and the Bottom should be at the Bottom. Yes 31 minutes ago, WotEver said: Second rule - it should be in the cabin HaHa No - belay that - unless you mean in the body of the boat. Best of all in its own cupboard with shelves and gaps around so that you can dry all your wet weather gear (and somewhere to defrost tonight's food....) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WotEver Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 1 hour ago, OldGoat said: HaHa No - belay that - unless you mean in the body of the boat. Yes. I meant 'somewhere warm' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cuthound Posted June 20, 2017 Report Share Posted June 20, 2017 2 hours ago, reg said: Fully endorse the "never again" sentiment. I made a double error in that with my boat being slightly nose First rule of calorifier installation The Top should be at the Top and the Bottom should be at the Bottom. Completely agree. As any fule know's if you mount it upside down instead of providing hot water you will get chilled water out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bromleyxphil Posted October 22, 2020 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2020 Don’t know if I should resurrect this post or start a new one, what is the protocol? Health issues over the last few years have both delayed and changed our plans. We were going to live aboard for a few years and then buy a house again. We now have now bought our forever home and it is going to have to be a holiday boat. I have reduced it to a 55’ and changed to a cruiser stern which I recon will give me 39’ internal? Port holes or windows in the bedroom? 10’6” big enough living space with a wood burner? Still thinking of another hatch in the bathroom to easily air out after a shower. Thoughts guys? I am talking to shell builders and they all seem booked up forever, anyone know different. cheers Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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