Newbie...Trojan t105

[Col_T]

A couple of comments:-

 

1:- 97% on the Smartgauge is clearly not fully charged, however one defines fully charged;

2:- 97 - 84 = 13 so your 23Ah is about 175Ah current capacity from the 675Ah bank - not quite as disastrous as you feared;

3:- Wotever's post suggests fully charged voltage is 12.65v, so had the batteries been charged at some point during the day e.g. the 12.85v you saw when you got home included surface charge;

 

All the above is largely academic though as, however one looks at it, the batteries show the signs of being sulphated, and therefore need to be fully charged and then subject to equalisation charges which, I'm pretty sure, has already been said.

 

NB - I am still trying to learn and understand the dark arts of battery management, so probably best to wait for others to confirm the points I've made!

[WotEver]

Simply put, at this time of year OP should be charging his T105s at somewhere around 15V and should continue doing so until the charge current hasn't dropped over a period of about 45 minutes. This might take very many hours. Once at this point he should top up the electrolyte and then equalise at around 16V for 3 hours. Then top up the electrolyte again.

 

He will then have his bank at 100% for probably the first time ever.

 

The procedure will probably need to be repeated a couple of times to exercise the batteries and get the best out of them.

 

Tony

[mrsmelly]

Having digested this and other threads about batteries and especialy " Trojans " I am now even more convinced than ever I was before that as a liveaboard off grid boat the only way to go is cheap open wet. It appears to be near impossible to adhere to such battery regime as is properly necessary for " Posh " batteries which will fail as quickly as cheapies if abused it would seem. The cost is very considerably more which I doubt would be recooped in longevity for such a boater in my position. It is nice to get proper information from such as Tony ( wotever ) though as much speculation is normaly what is typed so thankyou.

[dmr]

Having digested this and other threads about batteries and especialy " Trojans " I am now even more convinced than ever I was before that as a liveaboard off grid boat the only way to go is cheap open wet. It appears to be near impossible to adhere to such battery regime as is properly necessary for " Posh " batteries which will fail as quickly as cheapies if abused it would seem. The cost is very considerably more which I doubt would be recooped in longevity for such a boater in my position. It is nice to get proper information from such as Tony ( wotever ) though as much speculation is normaly what is typed so thankyou.

 

But then we only get posts here from people who are having problems and often from people who are very new to looking after batteries, so we get an unrealistically negative view of things.

 

So, my Trojans do fine, I just top them up a few times every year and if I feel the capacity is dropping off a bit I give them a couple of hours at 15.5 volts. Its no big deal, I don't usually bother to measure specific gravities and the like (stopped doing that after the holes in the new trousers episode) unless something is obviously wrong. They last much more than twice as long as cheapos so are cost effective and they look nicer too.

 

...........Dave

[MtB]

My Batteries are series parralled with three strings connecting the batteries

 

This will be part of the problem then. You need to replace the string with some nice fat copper cables.

 

 

 

Would sulphation be so aggressive and leave only that amount of amp hours or could it be a wiring or a dodgy smartgauge............ any suggestions please.

 

I'd say both are the case, and rhymes with my own experience.

 

About November I bought a set of four Trojan clones. Charged them on a mains charger for a couple of days then installed them in the boat. I charged them weekly to 100% on the Smartgauge and never let them fall below 50%. All was good for a few cycles but capacity seemed to be falling already.

 

After a few weeks I bought a refractometer and was rather taken aback to find my batteries when fully charged on the Smartgauge were nothing of the sort. There is a thread about it. Turns out that Smartgauge is lying when it says 100% SoC and simply can't be relied upon. My batteries were well sulphated and down to about 50% of new capacity after just a few weeks of charging to 'only 100%' on the Smartgauge.

 

It turns out the Smartgauge simply can't be relied upon at high charge percentages. I think the Smargauge display should change to "Indeterminate" or something like that to prevent people like me taking the display at face value when it is known not to be necessarily correct.

 

So in summary I'd imagine your batteries have had the same inadvertent abuse as mine. Mine have mostly recovered after six hours+ of desulphation at about 31.6v (24v bank and charger), and a further six+ hours at 32v. THey could still do with some more though as the SG is strill not as high as it is supposed to be in about half of the cells when I run out of time for desluphating.

 

The hard bit about desulphating is it takes 8 hours+ to charge to the point where the tail current stops falling. In fact I've NEVER achieved total stability, it just falls more and more slowly the longer I charge. I find. After the eight hours+ of charging it's best to just stop, and to start the three hour desulpahtion cycle.

 

In reality what I do now is spend a day charging, then next day top up the charge for an hour or two THEN start the three hours of desulphation. I also have a little voltage step-up PCB which lets me desulphate in silence after 8pm, using a gash pair of old demestic batteries.

Edited February 8, 2017 by Mike the Boilerman

[dmr]

Simply put, at this time of year OP should be charging his T105s at somewhere around 15V and should continue doing so until the charge current hasn't dropped over a period of about 45 minutes. This might take very many hours. Once at this point he should top up the electrolyte and then equalise at around 16V for 3 hours. Then top up the electrolyte again.

 

He will then have his bank at 100% for probably the first time ever.

 

The procedure will probably need to be repeated a couple of times to exercise the batteries and get the best out of them.

 

Tony

 

Not sure about all this topping up. In my experience Trojans don't loose much water during equalisation so unless they are really low before starting I would just continue to top them up a few times each year as required.

I have noticed that they go a bit odd after topping up and appear to loose capacity for a few days, not sure if this is a real effect (stratification?) or a Smartgage thing. They also go odd (reduced capacity) after equalisation and I suspect this is the Smartgage.

 

So after equalisation or topping up do wait a few cycles before re-evaluating the capacity.

 

Equalisation is not such a big deal as its often made out to be. I believe some chargers even do it autonomously without the owner even realising (not such a good thing in my opinion)

 

..............Dave

[MtB]

 

But then we only get posts here from people who are having problems and often from people who are very new to looking after batteries, so we get an unrealistically negative view of things.

 

So, my Trojans do fine, I just top them up a few times every year and if I feel the capacity is dropping off a bit I give them a couple of hours at 15.5 volts. Its no big deal, I don't usually bother to measure specific gravities and the like (stopped doing that after the holes in the new trousers episode) unless something is obviously wrong. They last much more than twice as long as cheapos so are cost effective and they look nicer too.

 

...........Dave

 

 

Ah but you have a customised Adverc alternator controller which allows you to fiddle with the charge voltage whilst cruising...

 

I want one!

[WotEver]

 

Not sure about all this topping up. In my experience Trojans don't loose much water during equalisation so unless they are really low before starting I would just continue to top them up a few times each year as required.

I have noticed that they go a bit odd after topping up and appear to loose capacity for a few days, not sure if this is a real effect (stratification?) or a Smartgage thing. They also go odd (reduced capacity) after equalisation and I suspect this is the Smartgage.

 

So after equalisation or topping up do wait a few cycles before re-evaluating the capacity.

 

Equalisation is not such a big deal as its often made out to be. I believe some chargers even do it autonomously without the owner even realising (not such a good thing in my opinion)

 

..............Dave

If they don't need topping up then don't top them up

 

T.

[dmr]

 

This will be part of the problem then. You need to replace the string with some nice fat copper cables.

 

 

 

 

I'd say both are the case, and rhymes with my own experience.

 

About November I bought a set of four Trojan clones. Charged them on a mains charger for a couple of days then installed them in the boat. I charged them weekly to 100% on the Smartgauge and never let them fall below 50%. All was good for a few cycles but capacity seemed to be falling already.

 

After a few weeks I bought a refractometer and was rather taken aback to find my batteries when fully charged on the Smartgauge were nothing of the sort. There is a thread about it. Turns out that Smartgauge is lying when it says 100% SoC and simply can't be relied upon. My batteries were well sulphated and down to about 50% of new capacity after just a few weeks of charging to 'only 100%' on the Smartgauge.

 

It turns out the Smartgauge simply can't be relied upon at high charge percentages. I think the Smargauge display should change to "Indeterminate" or something like that to prevent people like me taking the display at face value when it is known not to be necessarily correct.

 

So in summary I'd imagine your batteries have had the same inadvertent abuse as mine. Mine have mostly recovered after six hours+ of desulphation at about 31.6v (24v bank and charger), and a further six+ hours at 32v. THey could still do with some more though as the SG is strill not as high as it is supposed to be in about half of the cells when I run out of time for desluphating.

 

The hard bit about desulphating is it takes 8 hours+ to charge to the point where the tail current stops falling. In fact I've NEVER achieved total stability, it just falls more and more slowly the longer I charge. I find. After the eight hours+ of charging it's best to just stop, and to start the three hour desulpahtion cycle.

 

In reality what I do now is spend a day charging, then next day top up the charge for an hour or two THEN start the three hours of desulphation. I also have a little voltage step-up PCB which lets me desulphate in silence after 8pm, using a gash pair of old demestic batteries.

 

I am surprised about this as I have found (from laziness and forgetfulness) that the Trojans can take a lot of stick and go quite a while without an equalisation or even a real 100% charge and still come back with a good equalisation or lots of good charging. I wonder if your clones are significantly inferior?

 

As for the Smartgage, I feel that its indication during charging is its only real weakness, its aimed in part at non technical users so giving misleading information is doubly bad. During charge I believe its just a clever but linear timer. It would be better if the timing was non linear and slowed down at higher states of charge and so took several hours to get from 90 to 100% or whatever.

 

..............Dave

[nicknorman]

I am surprised about this as I have found (from laziness and forgetfulness) that the Trojans can take a lot of stick and go quite a while without an equalisation or even a real 100% charge and still come back with a good equalisation or lots of good charging. I wonder if your clones are significantly inferior?

 

As for the Smartgage, I feel that its indication during charging is its only real weakness, its aimed in part at non technical users so giving misleading information is doubly bad. During charge I believe its just a clever but linear timer. It would be better if the timing was non linear and slowed down at higher states of charge and so took several hours to get from 90 to 100% or whatever.

 

..............Dave

Yes it does seem to be linear, for no good reason since as we know accumulation of SoC during charging is far from linear. I think it's accuracy depends on how fast the charging is - with our big alternator I find it is not too far away from "compromise fully charged" ie around 2 to 3% tail current. It is possible to adjust the count up rate if you know how, but I've found it to be adequately set up for my needs.

[Leon 12]

As a novice boater, the smartgauge is an accurate piece of equipment to a degree but its flaws can be detrimental somewhat when you act regarding what it says. Unless you join a forum and discover the true workings you could be always undercharging. From what I have gathered in these last few days there is more to charging than looking at 100% on a readout. My first point of call is a full charge followed by Equalisation of four hours at 15.5 volts........Sterling inverter charger. Then I will replace the inverter charger with the pro ultra 60 amp to which I can input my Trojan settings,it has temp adjustment and an equalisation setting......Also replace the cross leads with 70mmSQ cable to match the rest and hopefully I will have amore acceptable amp hours to work with............ maybe I will use a candle instead to read with.

[mrsmelly]

 

But then we only get posts here from people who are having problems and often from people who are very new to looking after batteries, so we get an unrealistically negative view of things.

 

So, my Trojans do fine, I just top them up a few times every year and if I feel the capacity is dropping off a bit I give them a couple of hours at 15.5 volts. Its no big deal, I don't usually bother to measure specific gravities and the like (stopped doing that after the holes in the new trousers episode) unless something is obviously wrong. They last much more than twice as long as cheapos so are cost effective and they look nicer too.

 

...........Dave

 

Aaaarrrrgggghhhhhhhh more spanners in the works So if you say they last twice as long as cheapos how long do your cheapos last? If I buy Trojans they are twice as much as cheapos so need to last at least twice as long as cheapos or it aint worth it. Also I buy maint free cheapos so non of that faffing about. These batteries have been on 108 weeks so far and are losing some capacity so will need changing soon but they have only cost me £2.75 per week so far. I would also have to rewire battery compartment and I am a Yorkie we dont like spending unecesary money unless its on a necesity such as beer. Maaaam what do I do?

[dmr]

 

Aaaarrrrgggghhhhhhhh more spanners in the works So if you say they last twice as long as cheapos how long do your cheapos last? If I buy Trojans they are twice as much as cheapos so need to last at least twice as long as cheapos or it aint worth it. Also I buy maint free cheapos so non of that faffing about. These batteries have been on 108 weeks so far and are losing some capacity so will need changing soon but they have only cost me £2.75 per week so far. I would also have to rewire battery compartment and I am a Yorkie we dont like spending unecesary money unless its on a necesity such as beer. Maaaam what do I do?

 

Yorkshire! right, stick to the cheap ones.

I think really its just not clear cut and depends on many factors including the personality of the owner. For different boaters el cheapo, Trojan and Full Traction can all make sense. I can also see that those sealed gel things have a place.

 

I had a set of Elecsols (expensive cheapos) which did well but then died (very dead) very quickly. I got some proper cheapos and they lasted a week, I reckon they were already 50% sulphated when I got them, got some more cheapos that did a reasonable job for a year. It can be a pain getting batteries to and from the boat so after these experiences I thought I would give Trojans a go and they work for me, but I quite enjoy measuring amps and volts and stuff. I would also be quite happy with full tractions but it would be to hard to find space to fit them in.

 

and the cost....last year a T105 would cost £100 so it was hardly worth messing about with cheapos. Now its hard to get a T105 for less than £130 so the pendulum has swung a little back towards the cheapos.

 

Sadly at 71feet long Yorkshire is out of bounds so have to console myself with a Timothy Taylor or two.

 

..............Dave

[mrsmelly]

 

Yorkshire! right, stick to the cheap ones.

I think really its just not clear cut and depends on many factors including the personality of the owner. For different boaters el cheapo, Trojan and Full Traction can all make sense. I can also see that those sealed gel things have a place.

 

I had a set of Elecsols (expensive cheapos) which did well but then died (very dead) very quickly. I got some proper cheapos and they lasted a week, I reckon they were already 50% sulphated when I got them, got some more cheapos that did a reasonable job for a year. It can be a pain getting batteries to and from the boat so after these experiences I thought I would give Trojans a go and they work for me, but I quite enjoy measuring amps and volts and stuff. I would also be quite happy with full tractions but it would be to hard to find space to fit them in.

 

and the cost....last year a T105 would cost £100 so it was hardly worth messing about with cheapos. Now its hard to get a T105 for less than £130 so the pendulum has swung a little back towards the cheapos.

 

Sadly at 71feet long Yorkshire is out of bounds so have to console myself with a Timothy Taylor or two.

 

..............Dave

 

Thanks Dave. Twill be goodish cheapos again I think. 71 feet is a piddly little boat oop North and its a nice trip upt Trent and round Trent falls in at Goole to get there

[dmr]

 

Thanks Dave. Twill be goodish cheapos again I think. 71 feet is a piddly little boat oop North and its a nice trip upt Trent and round Trent falls in at Goole to get there

 

Looked at all this before we got the boat. Trent Falls conjures up a picture of a pretty waterfall that you have to go past and might get yer hair a bit splashed, but no, this is that funny northern sense of humour, the map clearly shows:......

 

Trent Falls = The North Sea!!!!

 

.................Dave

[mrsmelly]

 

Looked at all this before we got the boat. Trent Falls conjures up a picture of a pretty waterfall that you have to go past and might get yer hair a bit splashed, but no, this is that funny northern sense of humour, the map clearly shows:......

 

Trent Falls = The North Sea!!!!

 

.................Dave

 

Naaaaah thats only if ya turns right, if ya turns left its a breeze. Its only about a mile wide at that point, nowt to it...........similar to the Grand union

[David Mack]

My Batteries are series parralled with three strings connecting the batteries 70mmSq cable from inverter charger also 70mm cable connecting the positives/negs on the strings and 35mm sq cable connecting the cross positive to negative. The shunt is in place and the smartgauge is connected on the furthest negative. So wiring is in place correctly. Would sulphation be so aggressive and leave only that amount of amp hours or could it be a wiring or a dodgy smartgauge............ any suggestions please.

A diagram would help to understand how the batteries are wired, and whether that can be improved.

[MtB]

A diagram would help to understand how the batteries are wired, and whether that can be improved.

 

 

Once you have whopping fat interconnects, fiddling with the exact configuration is equivalent to arguing about angels dancing on the head of a pin.

 

It makes no difference in practice.

[David Mack]

 

 

Once you have whopping fat interconnects, fiddling with the exact configuration is equivalent to arguing about angels dancing on the head of a pin.

 

It makes no difference in practice.

Maybe so, but from the OP's description can you work out how the batteries are wired and exactly where the smartgauge is connected?

[MtB]

As a novice boater, the smartgauge is an accurate piece of equipment to a degree but its flaws can be detrimental somewhat when you act regarding what it says. Unless you join a forum and discover the true workings you could be always undercharging.

 

 

This certainly seems to be the case now we know it justs times how long the charger is on for before declaring 100% charged.

 

If this is the full story Gibbo should be ashamed of himself for knowingly designing and marketing a product that only does half what it says on the tin.

 

That Graham.m was almost right in his determination to denigrate the SG at every opportunity.

[system 4-50]

What it says on the tin:

 

During discharge, SmartGauge can very accurately track the state of charge of the batteries. During this phase of battery usage it is possible, at certain times, for SmartGauge to actually measure the state of charge of the batteries. SmartGauge continually monitors for an opportunity to do so. When the opportunity arises, SmartGauge does so, then uses the results of this measurement to compare with its calculated figures for charge status. SmartGauge then uses this information to adjust its battery model and the SmartGauge algorithm so that future discharge cycles become more and more accurate. This is one of the ways in which SmartGauge automatically adjusts itself to compensate for battery ageing and the consequent reduced battery capacity as they get older. This is also one of the ways in which SmartGauge is so superior to a meter based on the amp hours counting principle. This is a continual process that continues throughout the life of the batteries so that SmartGauge always shows the percentage power remaining as a fraction of the actual currently available battery capacity as opposed to a percentage of what used to be available when the batteries were new.

This is the important phase, this is when one really needs to know the state of charge.

During charging this is not possible due to the presence of the charger preventing SmartGauge ever getting an opportunity to actually measure the charge status. In effect, if it tried, it would be attempting to measure the charge status of the charger. During charging, SmartGauge only shows the calculated charge status as does an amp hours counter however SmartGauge, because it operates on a different principle, calculates a charge status that is much more accurate. For this reason, it is possible that, during the charge cycle, the charge status displayed may not be totally accurate. It will be within 10% of the actual battery charge status. This may seem like nothing (and is infinitely more accurate than an amp hours counter may show which could be literally hundreds of amp hours adrift), but it can have certain consequences.

(Note that once discharging commences, SmartGauge will automatically re-synchronise itself within the first few minutes of discharge or within the first 10 minutes of resting if no load is present. SmartGauge, again, uses this information to modify its battery models and algorithm to increase the accuracy of future calculations.)

For this reason it may not be wise to place too much faith in the charge status during charging. SmartGauge will certainly give a very good indication (certainly better than an amp hours counter – and certainly better than a volt meter [which will tell you nothing more than that the batteries are charging]) but it could be that SmartGauge shows the charge status to have reached (as a worst case example) 100% when in actual fact the batteries have only reached 90%.

Not charging to 100% charge state is one of the most common reasons for premature battery failure. Not charging to 100% (or occasionally well in excess of 100%) causes sulfation of the plates which is the main cause of early battery death.

Therefore, as when using any form of charge status meter, if using an intelligent charger, do not shut the charger down when charge status meter indicates 100% charge status. Instead, rely upon the charger, which can reach a much more accurate measurement of when the batteries are actually fully charged.

Also consider the possible results of using the Primary Alarm set to operate on charge status. If this is being used to operate an auto start generator and charger, and the generator is regularly shut down before reaching 100% charge status this, again, will cause the plates to sulphate up.

This is the reason for the option to set the low status alarm to operate for a fixed period of time instead of until reaching a certain charge status. In some installations it may be better to use this option to ensure that the generator is run for a sufficient period of time.

Either way, rest assured that, once discharging commences, SmartGauge will resynchronise itself (whatever the final true charge status that was reached – i.e. it will not simply assume 100% charge status, as many amp hours counters do) and then give a true indication of the charge status throughout the discharge cycle.

Conversely, it may be the case that SmartGauge only reaches 90% charge status during the charge cycle when in actual fact the batteries have reached 100% charge status and the intelligent charger has gone into float charge. If this happens, again SmartGauge will resynchronise itself during the first stage of the discharge cycle.

Whatever happens, whenever SmartGauge “gets it wrong”, SmartGauge realises, corrects itself, and uses the information to modify its battery models and algorithm. An amp hours counter simply “gets it wrong”, does nothing about it, and runs further and further adrift from the true state of charge.

SmartGauge will NOT run out of synchronisation with the batteries.

Taken from the Smartgauge site (their copyright)

Edited February 8, 2017 by system 4-50

[MtB]

So why doesn't it say any that on the display, instead of an authoritative "100%"?

 

I don't really buy that though anyway because when my batts are 100% according to the SG, and still charging at 11A and falling (indicating nothing like 100% charged), if I stop charging the display doesn't self-correct. It continues to display 99%, 98%, 97% over the ensuing hours or day.

Edited February 8, 2017 by Mike the Boilerman

[nicknorman]

This certainly seems to be the case now we know it justs times how long the charger is on for before declaring 100% charged.

 

If this is the full story Gibbo should be ashamed of himself for knowingly designing and marketing a product that only does half what it says on the tin.

 

That Graham.m was almost right in his determination to denigrate the SG at every opportunity.

I think you are being a little unfair. It is not possible for a device that only measure voltage to be very accurate during charge, since it only "sees" the charger, not the battery voltage. Everything is a compromise and the compromise of having a cheap device with simple install and simple interpretation and usage, is that the charging SoC is not very good. As I've said before, it's not that bad either.

 

Perhaps it helps to remember that Gibbo was of the opinion that battery charging was a compromise between a perfect battery-preserving charging regime and hours and hours of engine/genny running with concomitant fuel consumption and nuisance. IIRC he thought that charging to 4% tail current was that compromise, and in my experience the SG pretty much achieves that. Yes as we mentioned, it would have been better if the SoC count-up was less linear but the primary effect of that on our installation is that it tends to under-read significantly mid-charge, and catches up towards the end of the charge such that it is at a reasonable compromise tail current as 100% is reached.

So why doesn't it say any that on the display, instead of an authoritative "100%"?

 

I don't really buy that though anyway because when my batts are 100% according to the SG, and still charging at 11A and falling (indicating nothing like 100% charged), if I stop charging the display doesn't self-correct. It continues to display 99%, 98%, 97% over the ensuing hours or day.

100% means 100% of a reasonable compromise between charging time and actually fully charged - the latter of course only being asymptotically approached. When folk say "...tail current stabilised over 45 minutes" or whatever, it is of course only stabilised in the context of the resolution of their measuring equipment and impatience. In reality, the current continues to fall for a very long time, or (if truly asymptotic) for ever or at least until quantum effects prevail.

 

On the indication remaining near 100% after charging is stopped I think the SG struggles with surface charge effects. But it's great strength over other devices is that once discharge proper starts, it will rapidly indicate the correct SoC, say once it gets into the low 90s. Of course one would like super accuracy but being realistic, does it actually matter whether the indicated SoC on discharge is 98% or 92%?

Edited February 8, 2017 by nicknorman

[Leon 12]

Hello, my batteries are wired in a stereotypical series/parallel configuration with 35mm sq interconnect cables. My history with these batteries is as follows. After purchase they were stored for 2 months. After installation they were connected to shoreline via the inverter charger on float. Also connected via two 100 watt solar panels connected to a tracer 30 amp. My belief is that trojan batteries are at 70% capacity when new and over the next how many cycles they steadily increase to 100% capacity......since moving to my mooring I have only cycled maybe 20 or so times. So they wouldn't even have achieved full capacity.

 

Now the smartgauge must use resistance of some sort to determine capacity and voltage. But how can it not see that Trojans no matter what the voltage is at full return that in capacity. A trojan will develop capacity from new in its own time ie..125 cycles.

 

The Trojans were 100 % and dropped to 79% very quickly...only 23 ah. Then from 79% to 69% it was 60 ah so in that 10% of drop there was a 37 ah drop. Maybe it's my weird logic but if say after 20 cycles I had built a further 9% of capacity that would then tie in with the 79% capacity what the smartgauge was saying. You could throw any amount of charging and equalization but until full capacity is achieved via cycles Trojans will only ever show the capacity they are at at that given point.

 

I performed a 3 hour charge to which the tail ended at 7.34 amps then a 3 hour equalization charge.

 

8.15 am 42 amps going in at 13.7 volts

8.25 am 48 amps going in at 14.02 v

8.34 am 46 amps going in at 14.4 v

9.15 am 26 amps going in at 14.5 v

9.32 am 19 amps going in at 14.6 v

9.56 am 13.4 going in 14.61 volts

10.15 am 11.4 amps going in at 14.67 v

10.19 am 10.8 amps going in at 14.65 v

10.45 am 8.4 amps going in at 14.70

11.30 am 7.34 amps going in at 14.70 volts

 

Both smartgauge and victron at 100%

 

Equalization performed at 15.5 volts at 10.5 amps

 

Gravity readings at 12.75-80 across batteries.

 

So let me know what you think.

[Phil.]

Hello, my batteries are wired in a stereotypical series/parallel configuration with 35mm sq interconnect cables. My history with these batteries is as follows. After purchase they were stored for 2 months. After installation they were connected to shoreline via the inverter charger on float. Also connected via two 100 watt solar panels connected to a tracer 30 amp. My belief is that trojan batteries are at 70% capacity when new and over the next how many cycles they steadily increase to 100% capacity......since moving to my mooring I have only cycled maybe 20 or so times. So they wouldn't even have achieved full capacity.

Now the smartgauge must use resistance of some sort to determine capacity and voltage. But how can it not see that Trojans no matter what the voltage is at full return that in capacity. A trojan will develop capacity from new in its own time ie..125 cycles.

The Trojans were 100 % and dropped to 79% very quickly...only 23 ah. Then from 79% to 69% it was 60 ah so in that 10% of drop there was a 37 ah drop. Maybe it's my weird logic but if say after 20 cycles I had built a further 9% of capacity that would then tie in with the 79% capacity what the smartgauge was saying. You could throw any amount of charging and equalization but until full capacity is achieved via cycles Trojans will only ever show the capacity they are at at that given point.

I performed a 3 hour charge to which the tail ended at 7.34 amps then a 3 hour equalization charge.

8.15 am 42 amps going in at 13.7 volts

8.25 am 48 amps going in at 14.02 v

8.34 am 46 amps going in at 14.4 v

9.15 am 26 amps going in at 14.5 v

9.32 am 19 amps going in at 14.6 v

9.56 am 13.4 going in 14.61 volts

10.15 am 11.4 amps going in at 14.67 v

10.19 am 10.8 amps going in at 14.65 v

10.45 am 8.4 amps going in at 14.70

11.30 am 7.34 amps going in at 14.70 volts

Both smartgauge and victron at 100%

Equalization performed at 15.5 volts at 10.5 amps

Gravity readings at 12.75-80 across batteries.

So let me know what you think.

The equalisation at 15.5v and SG at 1.275 - 1.280 might not be that good depending on the temperature. If very cold both are a bit low I believe.