Test for the electro wizards!

[Dave Payne]

Not music related...

 

I have one crappy spot light at the front of the boat, operated as usual from a switch on the panel at the rear.

 

Now i want to change this for an LED one and add another but with both being on separate switches and pointing at different angles also maybe different strengths, so that i can turn one off when passing boats at night or passing a boat in a tunnel.

 

Here is the problem, whilst i can get the cable from the switch to three quarters of the way down the boat (inside) the remaining quarter is tricky.

 

So, is there a magic thing that i can fit to maybe a four way switch that picks up what i select on the switch, off/spot one/spot two/both spots.

 

Im sure there is right?

[Paul C]

Not music related...

 

I have one crappy spot light at the front of the boat, operated as usual from a switch on the panel at the rear.

 

Now i want to change this for an LED one and add another but with both being on separate switches and pointing at different angles also maybe different strengths, so that i can turn one off when passing boats at night or passing a boat in a tunnel.

 

Here is the problem, whilst i can get the cable from the switch to three quarters of the way down the boat (inside) the remaining quarter is tricky.

 

So, is there a magic thing that i can fit to maybe a four way switch that picks up what i select on the switch, off/spot one/spot two/both spots.

 

Im sure there is right?

 

The normal thing you'd do is fit the wires to the switch, ie no "magic thing". I think for simplicity, if you want to do this then you really need to find a route for the wires, or find an alternate route. Otherwise you're into some kind of multiplex - demultiplex thing etc. I guess the issue is the wires have been installed in the boat, then the stove and hearth fitted? What's the other side of the boat like?

[mross]

You could get a remote controlled LED spotlight that runs from one 12V supply. This can be turned off and steered from a little key fob.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Topppower-Controll-Wireless-Offroad-Tractor/dp/B01HEVFDMC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1483556242&sr=8-5&keywords=remote+searchlight

 

Available for £70 if you shop around.

 

Here's one for £60

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Elite-EC401-Smart-Wireless-Spot-Search-Light-for-Boat-Truck-Car-Van-12v-Bright/282257994105?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D38661%26meid%3D36144fd5445846c1b2b7f18729e8df74%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D272365398821

Edited January 4, 2017 by mross

[RLWP]

How about something clever with diodes and reversing the polarity of the wires to the front?

 

Richard

[MoominPapa]

How about something clever with diodes and reversing the polarity of the wires to the front?

 

Richard

That gives you three options off/one on/both on or off/one on/other on. OP wants to be able to have either light on as well as both, which is much more difficult.

 

MP.

Edited January 4, 2017 by MoominPapa

[Dave Payne]

You could get a remote controlled LED spotlight that runs from one 12V supply. This can be turned off and steered from a little key fob.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Topppower-Controll-Wireless-Offroad-Tractor/dp/B01HEVFDMC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1483556242&sr=8-5&keywords=remote+searchlight

 

Available for £70 if you shop around.

Ahh yes, a much more simple approach, could hook it up to the power already in place, just replace the main light or have two remote controlled lights!

 

I knew the forum wouldn't let me down.

 

Thanks

[mross]

see update to post 3

[WotEver]

I wonder what the chances are of buying two both on the same remote code...

[nicknorman]

If you want to use a remote control, i think you would do better with a remote control module powering your own lamps, that way there is just one remote with 2 buttons. Something like http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/quasar-two-channel-wireless-remote-control-kit-l27bk

Can be set to toggle on and off with each press of the appropriate button. I've got the 4 channel version on our boat that allows me to turn on various lights from the towpath, and turn on the heating from anywhere in the boat (e.g. whilst in bed!).

[reg]

You could get a remote controlled LED spotlight that runs from one 12V supply. This can be turned off and steered from a little key fob.

 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Topppower-Controll-Wireless-Offroad-Tractor/dp/B01HEVFDMC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1483556242&sr=8-5&keywords=remote+searchlight

 

Available for £70 if you shop around.

 

 

 

Just checked the spec for the above and it states a 50w cree bulb giving 6500 lumens. My current halogen 50w gives approx 600 lumens and is powerful enough for tunnels. So, unless I have missed something, I would not like to meet something 11 times more powerful coming the other way.

 

Having said the above I am interested in the OP's question and any answers as I need to convert my single spotlight to led.

 

Note to Mr Ross please stop spending my money with your Links, just purchased my liquid extractor and now have a dry Bilge much thanks for the info on that in the other thread

[tonyt40]

Try this. 4 way. It says it will handle 10amps so should be OK for Led spots.

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-4CH-Channel-200M-Wireless-Remote-Control-Relay-Switch-Transceiver-Receiver-/131730091890?hash=item1eabb9af72:g:SzIAAOSwFNZWxEu0

[mross]

Note to Mr Ross please stop spending my money with your Links, just purchased my liquid extractor and now have a dry Bilge much thanks for the info on that in the other thread

Here's one that's 55W HID so not as bright. You can angle it away from oncoming boats.

 

http://www.workshopping.co.uk/product/durite-12volt-hid-xenon-55-watt-powerful-searchlight-with-remote-control/DUR053772/

Edited January 4, 2017 by mross

[Guest]

Fit a dimmer switch and have them both on at once. Just turn them down when necessary. Ah wait, I now notice you want LED ones...

I was thinking along thelines of "dim dip" as once fitted to cars.

Edited January 4, 2017 by Guest

[Jak]

Hmmm. I've just fitted a 4500 lumens led and now I'm worried. The bracket does allow it to be tilted so at least I can 'dip' it I suppose...

[Giant]

Ohhh, I have a good answer to this. You can even do dimmer control, of two separate lights, down the one pair of wires!

 

You need an full H-bridge IC that will carry enough current for either light, and a little circuit to generate the control signals for it.

 

The H-bridge will let you connect the supply to the wire pair one way round, or the other, or neither.

 

At the other end you connect one light one way, and one the other, with diodes so each only comes on for one polarity. So far the same as RLWP's idea.

 

The trick is, to get both lights on you feed alternating control signals to the H-bridge so that it rapidly switches between the two.

 

By tweaking the duty cycles you could get dimming control of both.

 

I bet you could do it with just a 555, an H-bridge and some passives.

[Guest]

Hmmm. I've just fitted a 4500 lumens led and now I'm worried. The bracket does allow it to be tilted so at least I can 'dip' it I suppose...

Put some tape over it and leave a little slit like they did in WW2

[bizzard]

Why LED? An old car headlamp unit which has main and dip facility and has a wide angle beam which is ideal. The lamp can be fitted either way up, normal way up to dip the light when approaching an on coming boat, or upside down so that it dips upwards for tunnels. Three wires would be needed, two for the Pos+ main and dip and one for the neg-. If wired to the engines battery the alternator should cope very easily with it, after all the lamp will only be used when the engines running. Cars use-used two of them plus side and tail and coped well, even in dynamo days. Sealed beam main and dip car headlamp units are still available. The pleasing and curvy shaped front wing complete with one of these lamps from a Morris Minor 1000 would look splendid mounted upon the roof of a boat.

[Jak]

Put some tape over it and leave a little slit like they did in WW2

Love it!

[Guest]

Why LED? An old car headlamp unit which has main and dip facility and has a wide angle beam which is ideal. The lamp can be fitted either way up, normal way up to dip the light when approaching an on coming boat, or upside down so that it dips upwards for tunnels. Three wires would be needed, two for the Pos+ main and dip and one for the neg-. If wired to the engines battery the alternator should cope very easily with it, after all the lamp will only be used when the engines running. Cars use-used two of them plus side and tail and coped well, even in dynamo days. Sealed beam main and dip car headlamp units are still available. The pleasing and curvy shaped front wing complete with one of these lamps from a Morris Minor 1000 would look splendid mounted upon the roof of a boat.

I think a frog eyed sprite would look nicer?

Joking aside, what is the problem with a good old fashioned incandescent fog lamp? Plenty of light in my experience, and don't dazzle oncoming boaters quite as much (when set up correctly.)

Edited January 4, 2017 by Guest

[bizzard]

I think a frog eyed sprite would look nicer?

Yes, any old pre 1980 British car would do.

[Jak]

Or a TR7 pop up headlight for some real 80s style? I do have an 80s NB!

[bizzard]

I think a frog eyed sprite would look nicer?

Joking aside, what is the problem with a good old fashioned incandescent fog lamp? Plenty of light in my experience, and don't dazzle oncoming boaters quite as much (when set up correctly.)

That's what I've got. Just a rectangular wide beam driving lamp off a Rover STI police car. But a singe car sealed beam headlamp unit gives the best overall performance, good depth of field and wide angle, plus dip. A great many boats had them years ago built into the front bulkhead. Dip,Dip,Dip my little ship, sails on the ocean, I'm not IT.

[Guest]

That's what I've got. Just a rectangular wide beam driving lamp off a Rover STI police car. But a singe car sealed beam headlamp unit gives the best overall performance, good depth of field and wide angle, plus dip. A great many boats had them years ago built into the front bulkhead. Dip,Dip,Dip my little ship, sails on the ocean, I'm not IT.

Did you have to put those little stickers on the glass when outside of the UK?

[cereal tiller]

Or a TR7 pop up headlight for some real 80s style? I do have an 80s NB!

Or 70's Style with a CitroenSM swivelling head lamp,connect the sensor to the Tiller to see round the corners!

 

CT

[reg]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112166091671

 

Just purchased 2 of these at 12w each which allows me to mount them pointing in different directions.

 

Going back to the OP am I right in understanding that your problem is with running the second cable for your new added Led?

 

If so, because these are only 12w and will only be used for short periods of time I am thinking you could possible use a smaller dedicated rechargeable battery or power pack for the 2nd led ie make it independent of the 1st led, for which you already have a power source.

With this setup:

you can just replace your existing light and retain your current switch system

Add a second led with its own power source for a 12w led

Use one the indicated remote switches, pointed out in this thread, just for the 2nd led

This has the advantage of built in redundancy in case of failure of one light or the other And does not require any additional long wiring runs.

 

 

How big the battery or power source required for the 2nd led is I'll leave to cleverer electrictions than me to work out together with suggestions on most suitable battery or power packs.

 

Just some random thoughts

 

I am seriously considering using a similar set up myself, just got to work out the details