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  1. Bit out of the way for most boaters on here, but Maldon is gorgeous right now.
  2. Yes, the guy fitted it up to match the one I brought in so should be all good to go.
  3. Success - have now traded in the failed one for a shiny new A127.
  4. Thanks for the leads. Have found a similar specialist in Bexley so I'm pulling it out and taking it over there this afternoon.
  5. Our alternator has failed. No markings on it. Design looks like a Lucas ACR but the back cover doesn't exactly match any of the variants of that I'm seeing online. We very badly need to be back underway on Thursday with a working alternator, so I want to find a drop-in replacement for this by the end of tomorrow. We're tied up at Gravesend. There is a Euro Car Parts here but they don't seem to deal in anything that old. I can travel tomorrow to anywhere in or near London to pick one up. Next day delivery could work in theory (we have an address nearby), but
  6. Thanks. Our freeboard is about the same so I'll keep an eye out for the 9 step version.
  7. I like the look of those ladders at the start of the thread, hadn't seen that design before - will have to keep an eye out on ebay for them. @Alan de Enfield or @magnetman, how far apart are the steps on yours? I want to work out how many steps we'd need to get.
  8. Giant

    A tale of two JP3s

    Today's mystery, however, is in the exhaust manifold that came off engine #2. We'd like to use this one, because the troublesome joint to the silencer is in much better shape. But while having a look through the channels in it yesterday, I found this inside the exhaust - a bent rod around 3-4mm in diameter. I could just about reach each end of it with a finger, through the forward two exhaust ports: At first I thought it was just lodged in by being bent around the corner, and tried to free it, but eventually I realised that both ends were free, and that all I was doing was bending it
  9. Giant

    A tale of two JP3s

    Well, I suppose we should start updating this thread again. The bottom end & gearbox of engine #2 have been with @RLWP and @Mrs Tawny Owl for a while now getting a complete strip down & rebuild. The crank has been reground, reinstalled on new main bearings and everything is looking very shiny. Sometime soon, we will be taking the boat into to drydock, and while we're there we'll have engine #1 craned out through the deck, and the newly rebuilt bottom end of engine #2 installed in its place, after taking the opportunity to strip the area under it back to bare me
  10. She was the last built of a set of four, her sister ships are Barnsley, Haddlesey, and Knottingley. All were dumb barges originally, Knottingley and Stanley were motorised later. I think this is her in British Waterways colours - it's a still from 3:41 into this amateur film in the BFI archive from 1960. This might be her too, or one of her sisters: This is her sister ship Knottingley from a recent ad: Look for a Facebook group called "Barges tugs and workboats on Humber" and ask around on there, it's a treasure trove.
  11. Giant

    Lister JK4

    Looking good Simon. Need to find some more time for our JP3M project...
  12. If I had the original in my hand I could give you a rough guess what it is. The proper tool to measure is a durometer, but a useful rough guide to Shore A hardness is: 20 = Rubber Band 40 = Pencil Eraser 60 = Car Tire Tread 70 = Running Shoe Sole 80 = Leather Belt 100 = Shopping Cart Wheel I would go for 85, given that you'll be putting your weight on them when you sit on the seat and presumably they're not that big. Think about a running shoe sole being 70, and you spread your weight across the whole foot on that.
  13. Yeah, a 3D print in Ninjaflex or similar rubbery filament is another option, but I'd hesitate to use a 3D print in this application since the surface will be rough and somewhat porous, which makes it hard to keep clean. And with the flexible filaments you can't really smooth the print with sanding or with solvent vapour in the same way as you can with solid plastic.
  14. If you have an original one as a reference - even if in poor condition - then it's possible to cast a mould from it, clean it up, and use a two-part liquid casting rubber to make new ones. I do a bit of this sort of process for making prototypes of plastic parts etc.
  15. Where you might cause some amusing confusion as there's already one Golden Hind replica in Southwark.
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