Beta Marine control panel light stays on

[rgriffiths]

I have a Beta engine and a control board that looks like this.

 

I have just noticed that the lower battery light is on when the engine is running. I cannot find any manuals but do I assume that this is for the starter battery and that if the light is on the battery is not charging? The other battery light on the panel goes off when the engine starts. We have 2 alternators.

Edited October 18, 2015 by rgriffiths

[Tiggs]

So one of the alternators is not charging a battery. Which one? Without a manual, it needs a voltmeter to tell. Or just wait until one no longer works...

 

Check, fuses and wiring BEFORE paying for a re-con'd alternator.

[nicknorman]

The bottom light is the engine alternator. I think you have the same panel as us which means it has a voltmeter for the engine battery. What is this showing with the engine running? Should be around 14v or a bit more. If it is less than 13v then the engine alternator is not working.

[rgriffiths]

Thanks. Yes we have a voltmeter next to it which reads about 14.2 when the engine is running.

[nicknorman]

Thanks. Yes we have a voltmeter next to it which reads about 14.2 when the engine is running.

Well that's odd, either the light is lying or the meter is not connected to the right battery (highly unlikely!). I think the best idea is to use a digital multimeter to check the voltage on the domestic batteries, and the starter battery, with the engine running.

[rgriffiths]

I have just fitted a digital meter in the domestic circuit which reads about 12.4 at the moment, going up to about 13.8 when the engine is running. All very strange .... I will have to get the voltmeter on it when the sun is shining tomorrow. Just wanted to check that the light on is meant to meant "not charging".

[john6767]

As Nick said, if everything is connected up correctly the bottom light for the alternator charging the engine start battery. That will be the smaller of the 2 alternators.

[BruceinSanity]

So one of the alternators is not charging a battery. Which one? Without a manual, it needs a voltmeter to tell. Or just wait until one no longer works...

 

Check, fuses and wiring BEFORE paying for a re-con'd alternator.

And the belt tensions.

[ditchcrawler]

I have just fitted a digital meter in the domestic circuit which reads about 12.4 at the moment, going up to about 13.8 when the engine is running. All very strange .... I will have to get the voltmeter on it when the sun is shining tomorrow. Just wanted to check that the light on is meant to meant "not charging".

SUN Shine, we are talking alternators charging, not solar panels, There isn't a bit of confusion coming in here is there?

[Saffa]

Check the big multi connector plug ( Main engine loom). Make sure its pushed together properly and its making good contact. There is also a 30A relay behind that panel. My panel was randomly alarming and the lights would come on. There was a bit of corrosion between the terminals causing a short.

[pearley]

As Saffa says. That big multiplug at the back is prone to corrosion and terminals working loose.

 

You can remove each individual terminal with a small screwdriver, clean them up, increase the tension by a little squeeze. Then force some silicone grease into the female terminals before you push the two halves back together. Put a big cable tie around the two to keep them together.

 

Then you find it is something else!

Edited October 18, 2015 by pearley

[trackman]

The big multiplug connectors are a real pain, I agree. I'd like to get rid of ours. I regularly have to mess about with them to clear dodgy connections.

I'd certainly check this before anything more complex.

[Keeping Up]

If the light is dim at tick over but gets brighter when you rev the engine that would indicate a faulty diode in the alternator.

[system 4-50]

As Saffa says. That big multiplug at the back is prone to corrosion and terminals working loose.

 

You can remove each individual terminal with a small screwdriver, clean them up, increase the tension by a little squeeze. Then force some silicone grease into the female terminals before you push the two halves back together. Put a big cable tie around the two to keep them together.

 

Then you find it is something else!

I am totally unable to understand how putting non-conducting grease on electrical parts lets them work properly. I know that it does, as with battery terminals, but it is so contrary to one's instincts!

[sharpness]

That is the engine battery light, the one above it has a "D" for Domestic on the battery symbol.

 

Steve

[Tony Brooks]

I am totally unable to understand how putting non-conducting grease on electrical parts lets them work properly. I know that it does, as with battery terminals, but it is so contrary to one's instincts!

 

Pearley's advice would solve the problem without any grease - for now! But there would still be gaps in the connectors to let moisture in so filling it with grease tends to seal the gaps. When the two parts are pushed together those parts that are going to make good contact just push the grease out of the way.

[Dinz]

I have just fitted a digital meter in the domestic circuit

Did the fault occur just after this event? Edit: Might have mis-read. Is this a permenant meter or test meter?

Edited October 24, 2015 by Dinz

[pearley]

I am totally unable to understand how putting non-conducting grease on electrical parts lets them work properly. I know that it does, as with battery terminals, but it is so contrary to one's instincts!

40 years as an auto electrician. It was something we had to do regularly before the advent of connectors with proper seals. As Tony says it is to keep the moisture out. My own Beta played up after a year but has now gone another 7 with no further problems. The addition of the cable tie is to guard against vibration.

[Sea Dog]

I too have had an issue (twice now) with that multi-plug. It'll be wearing a cable tie very soon! Good tip.