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Morning all,

 

We have recently come across an old boat with history (the good sort) for sale. However, it is a wooden hull and although we know boats we know nothing of these sort. It was rebottomed in oak in 2000. What concerns or advise should we be aware of? Do they need more regular surveys, checks, caution, etc? I know its a bit daft but does the wood make the hull vulnerable when on shallow waters- she's 2ft 9 draught.

 

Finally, at one point along the cabin, beam is 7ft - I know of a few locks where its a squeeze, such as those on the shroppie. Is it limiting?

 

Thank you for your time,

Hannah

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re-bottomed in OAK? trad done in ELM, but more recently (sue to teh Dutch Elm desise) we use Oppepy (I know that not how you speel it!!).

 

if OAK do they mean the Garboard (the bottom plank) or any of the other side planks/knees or Keslon that are normally Oak?

 

 

in terms of boating differcutties (bottoming out) dont worry, no extra wear (significant anyway).

 

 

in terms of maintenance ... wait, is it a "composit" or complete woodend construction, in that, is it a steel (Iron) boat with a wooden bottom, or a complete wooden constructed craft?

 

 

IF its a composite, once a year (every two if your feeling confident) get it out and re-caulk the bottoms,

IF its a complete wooden boat you'llbe wanting it out EVERY year to inspect, caulk and tar if not perform regular re-plankings .. not wanting to scare you, but they are alot of work (not that a steel boat isnt) but you cant just take it to any baot yard, they have to be specialists, or in our case a bunch of nutters who do it all in-house!

 

 

check out MykAskin's you tube video of re-planking/steaming a plank on the NB Spey (uploaded a month or so ago) to see a sped up version of the actual fitting, the vid doesnt show the years of inspections to know which planks to attack, the week (just under) of prep to do that job and the week (just under) to do all the finishing jobs after to make it float-able (sheering, caulking, tarring, Ice plating, cross pinning etc).

 

 

 

 

Owning a wooden boat is a labour of love... and I love it! but its not for all... please do ask questions if you want more info/do go ahead, we're an open and honest group who will give advice till the cows go home "back in my day..." the old boy will go on and on ;-)

 

 

 

 

Jay.

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re-bottomed in OAK? trad done in ELM, but more recently (sue to teh Dutch Elm desise) we use Oppepy (I know that not how you speel it!!).

 

if OAK do they mean the Garboard (the bottom plank) or any of the other side planks/knees or Keslon that are normally Oak?

 

 

in terms of boating differcutties (bottoming out) dont worry, no extra wear (significant anyway).

 

 

in terms of maintenance ... wait, is it a "composit" or complete woodend construction, in that, is it a steel (Iron) boat with a wooden bottom, or a complete wooden constructed craft?

 

 

IF its a composite, once a year (every two if your feeling confident) get it out and re-caulk the bottoms,

IF its a complete wooden boat you'llbe wanting it out EVERY year to inspect, caulk and tar if not perform regular re-plankings .. not wanting to scare you, but they are alot of work (not that a steel boat isnt) but you cant just take it to any baot yard, they have to be specialists, or in our case a bunch of nutters who do it all in-house!

 

 

check out MykAskin's you tube video of re-planking/steaming a plank on the NB Spey (uploaded a month or so ago) to see a sped up version of the actual fitting, the vid doesnt show the years of inspections to know which planks to attack, the week (just under) of prep to do that job and the week (just under) to do all the finishing jobs after to make it float-able (sheering, caulking, tarring, Ice plating, cross pinning etc).

 

 

 

 

Owning a wooden boat is a labour of love... and I love it! but its not for all... please do ask questions if you want more info/do go ahead, we're an open and honest group who will give advice till the cows go home "back in my day..." the old boy will go on and on ;-)

 

 

 

 

Jay.

 

Thank you for your reply, and for the great video. It is 3" thick oak planks to bottom and 2" thick to sides, with a solid oak keelson, original stern and stem posts, and original steel knees. Both hull and cabin are wood.

Is the 7ft beam an issue?

 

Thank you again,

Hannah

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Depends where you wana go!, we're 7'1" at our widest, but we (only this year) know why and we are correcting ourselves, Also dont for get beening wooden you will squeeze through where steel will grind to a halt!!

 

also long as the for and aft are good (where the T stud and rear pins go in) ou can get your self out of most problems with a turfer or winch. ... you will certaintly NOT get up the Welsh one (I'm not even going to attempt to speel it!!!) untill they re-build the first lock, poss the second.

 

Jay.

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Thank you for your reply, and for the great video. It is 3" thick oak planks to bottom and 2" thick to sides, with a solid oak keelson, original stern and stem posts, and original steel knees. Both hull and cabin are wood.

Is the 7ft beam an issue?

 

Thank you again,

Hannah

The 7ft beam will not hinder you. Many old working boats are 7ft plus and get around all the system without issues. Do not listen to those of the 6ft 10" brigade who "think" that that is the maximum. 7ft 1/2" was a common width on working boats, most Grand Union and Fellows Morton & Clayton are to this and slightly above.

However as stated previously a wooden boat is a labour of love and will take more looking after than a metal one, having owned several I can vouch for this being true.

What is the name and origin of this boat?, I may well have history on it.

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The 7ft beam will not hinder you. Many old working boats are 7ft plus and get around all the system without issues. Do not listen to those of the 6ft 10" brigade who "think" that that is the maximum. 7ft 1/2" was a common width on working boats, most Grand Union and Fellows Morton & Clayton are to this and slightly above.

However as stated previously a wooden boat is a labour of love and will take more looking after than a metal one, having owned several I can vouch for this being true.

What is the name and origin of this boat?, I may well have history on it.

More than one old boat has had problems getting up the Napton flight on the S Oxford

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More than one old boat has had problems getting up the Napton flight on the S Oxford

Notably the second one up the flight - which has been rebuilt recently, so I hope that Waterways have now rectified the problem.

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The 7ft beam will not hinder you. Many old working boats are 7ft plus and get around all the system without issues. Do not listen to those of the 6ft 10" brigade who "think" that that is the maximum. 7ft 1/2" was a common width on working boats, most Grand Union and Fellows Morton & Clayton are to this and slightly above.

However as stated previously a wooden boat is a labour of love and will take more looking after than a metal one, having owned several I can vouch for this being true.

What is the name and origin of this boat?, I may well have history on it.

I would hazard a guess at the tug Progress.

 

George ex nb Alton retired

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More than one old boat has had problems getting up the Napton flight on the S Oxford

 

 

Notably the second one up the flight - which has been rebuilt recently, so I hope that Waterways have now rectified the problem.

 

So we have heard, but subsequent investigation usually reveals that the stuck boat had either bulged in the middle, or poor previous work has made it banana shaped. Our boat is 7ft wide and we have never had any problems on the Napton flight,

Edited by David Schweizer
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Morning all,

 

We have recently come across an old boat with history (the good sort) for sale. However, it is a wooden hull and although we know boats we know nothing of these sort. It was rebottomed in oak in 2000. What concerns or advise should we be aware of? Do they need more regular surveys, checks, caution, etc? I know its a bit daft but does the wood make the hull vulnerable when on shallow waters- she's 2ft 9 draught.

 

Finally, at one point along the cabin, beam is 7ft - I know of a few locks where its a squeeze, such as those on the shroppie. Is it limiting?

 

Thank you for your time,

Hannah

Don't worry overmuch about the draught and width. Hundreds of boats on the system have those dimensions and more and we manage OK. If the boat is straight enough it will probably even get up Hurleston.

 

You don't own an historic boat, it owns you.

 

I have never owned a wooden boat(or even one owning me) but I did consider Progress before its last sale and I have looked at others. I have always chickened out, lacking the necessary skills for upkeep myself and not having deep enough pockets to pay others to do it.

 

Hopefully Karl will be along shortly with better advice.

 

If you do buy, be sure to join HNBC!

 

George ex nb Alton retired

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I like people who have historic wooden boats, they make those of us with iron and steel historic boats look sane and normal!

Thank you for liking me. I have a major stake in 3(three!) HWBs, all 70ft, all in good condition. You are the first person to my knowledge to question my sanity even though you have never met me. I would also describe myself as "Normal" or at least as normal as any other boater/canal enthusiast. I "do" steel boats as well- is that normal enough for you?

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Thank you for liking me. I have a major stake in 3(three!) HWBs, all 70ft, all in good condition. You are the first person to my knowledge to question my sanity even though you have never met me. I would also describe myself as "Normal" or at least as normal as any other boater/canal enthusiast. I "do" steel boats as well- is that normal enough for you?

 

I would question the sanity of anyone who owns an old boat......period ninja.gif

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I like people who have historic wooden boats, they make those of us with iron and steel historic boats look sane and normal!

 

Cheers mate :-) glad I can make someone feel better .. theres that song by Ben Folds Five .... "Theres always someone better then you" (migt be the chours words, but still!)

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