Centre line fixings

[SamKingfisher]

Hi there.

 

I am thinking I'll move my centre line fixings so I have one at each side rather than one central welded hoop (Liverpool boat).

 

Thinking M10 eye bolts screwed into handrail (not an actual rail, square thing) is this best?

 

Am not welding owt.

 

Cheers

 

Sam

Ps. Reason is extra solar.

[matty40s]

I have added an extra solar panel this year which just covers the centre line fixing.

I have installed two fairleads, fastened with M8 bolts and purchased a second centre line.

[GoodGurl]

we have a centreline each side drilled through the plank rack and fastened on with stainless steel D-links

[Bones]

Hi there.

I am thinking I'll move my centre line fixings so I have one at each side rather than one central welded hoop (Liverpool boat).

Thinking M10 eye bolts screwed into handrail (not an actual rail, square thing) is this best?

Am not welding owt.

Cheers

SamPs. Reason is extra solar.

Is the handrail thick enough? Mine is about 3mm I think and if I were to put M10 in only one, possibly two, threads catch it. Or were you thinking of having a backing plate?

 

 

I have added an extra solar panel this year which just covers the centre line fixing.

I have installed two fairleads, fastened with M8 bolts and purchased a second centre line.

 

Fairleads guide it though don't they? Did you still use the same central eye fixing?

[Ryeland]

Another vote for two lines on the central fixing, then fairleads on both sides. This gives all options, some times it's useful to be able to pull from the centre. My lines are different lengths as well, I can swop them when it's needed.

 

Fairleads only need 3 x M5 screws into the handrails.

 

Richard

[Jerra]

Another vote for two lines on the central fixing, then fairleads on both sides. This gives all options, some times it's useful to be able to pull from the centre. My lines are different lengths as well, I can swop them when it's needed.

 

Fairleads only need 3 x M5 screws into the handrails.

 

Richard

We have the setup as described above.

[sueb]

We just tied a rope to the handrails each side.

[mark99]

We have the setup as described above.

 

 

Same here.

[SamKingfisher]

Ta all.

 

I'm not sure fairleads will work with the way I have attached the other two panels, and I want this one the same for neatness. Otherwise an excellent idea.

 

Maybe I'll fabricate a plate so I can fix with 4 bolts, I was hoping for 4mm on the rail but 3mm wouldn't surprise me.

 

They don't need to take more force than I can exert by pulling (I don't think?) and if anyone tied her off in a lock I would rather the fitting pulled out obviously.

[ditchcrawler]

Ta all.

 

I'm not sure fairleads will work with the way I have attached the other two panels, and I want this one the same for neatness. Otherwise an excellent idea.

 

Maybe I'll fabricate a plate so I can fix with 4 bolts, I was hoping for 4mm on the rail but 3mm wouldn't surprise me.

 

They don't need to take more force than I can exert by pulling (I don't think?) and if anyone tied her off in a lock I would rather the fitting pulled out obviously.

I have know people lose fairleads from handrails trying to stop the boat hit the lock gates using the center line on a bollard.

[mark99]

I have know people lose fairleads from handrails trying to stop the boat hit the lock gates using the center line on a bollard.

If they are brass they can bend assuming the fixtures and rope dia are big enough.

Edited December 3, 2013 by mark99

[Naughty Cal]

Another vote for two lines on the central fixing, then fairleads on both sides. This gives all options, some times it's useful to be able to pull from the centre. My lines are different lengths as well, I can swop them when it's needed.

 

Fairleads only need 3 x M5 screws into the handrails.

 

Richard

That very much depends on what fairleads you use.

 

If you use proper ones that are up to the job then they need a bit more than a few screws to keep them in place.

[Athy]

 

Is the handrail thick enough? Mine is about 3mm I think eye fixing?

 

Miss Bones, your DIY skills are not in doubt, but I wonder if they extend to accurate measuring. That sounds like a very slimline handrail indeed.

[SamKingfisher]

I think she means the sheet used to fabricate the (square) handrail.

 

Does it have another name when not actually a rail?

[Guest]

 

 

 

Miss Bones, your DIY skills are not in doubt, but I wonder if they extend to accurate measuring. That sounds like a very slimline handrail indeed.

I don't think Bones is far off. When I drilled tapped ours on top of the square handrail, it was in the region of 3-4 mm. Certainly not 6mm like the cabin sides.

[Bones]

 

 

 

Miss Bones, your DIY skills are not in doubt, but I wonder if they extend to accurate measuring. That sounds like a very slimline handrail indeed.

 

not slim line - it is a box - well, angle that joinst he cabin side and roof.

 

I think she means the sheet used to fabricate the (square) handrail.

 

Does it have another name when not actually a rail?

 

I do!

[trackman]

Square handrail/gutter seems likely to be made from the same sheet thickness as the roof.

Beware of what may be inside this though. I drilled into the same on a previous boat to fit a fixing for a centre line and found there was some sort of steelwork inside it! Couldn't really tell what it was, but it seemed like some vertical element and it made hole drilling quite a struggle.

I think I used 10mm bolts on this iirc tapped into the gutter steel and they are still there with no problems 10 years later afaik.

[SamKingfisher]

Mr Weasel, what did you use and are you happy with them?

 

I had another look this morning and fairleads are probably going to be grand.

One more thing.

 

How will my lines lie nicely along the roof to the side of the back hatch? Won't the fairlead make them droop down the cabin side? Hmm

[Jerra]

How will my lines lie nicely along the roof to the side of the back hatch? Won't the fairlead make them droop down the cabin side? Hmm

Our go through the fairlead and then just curve back over the "handrail" (square section gutter type thing) and lie against it back to the "blunt end" of the boat..

[Pykebird]

I tried to pull my friends new, shiny Collingswood boat onto her mooring by the centre line. It had been put through the fairline and popped straight off and fell in the cut! Luckily our friendship has lasted much longer!

[Guest]

Never had problems with fairleads on the roof (yet) though the T stud came off at the sharp end when the weld failed. I have seen a centre eye fail spectacularly in the same way. I made a new T stud out of box section with a heavy plate on the bottom which is held down by two M16 bolts. Always intended to do same at blunt end, but haven't got around to it.

[Athy]

 

not slim line - it is a box - well, angle that joinst he cabin side and roof.

 

 

I do!

Ah, the thickness of the steel, not the diameter of the rail. I had not understood that part.

[ditchcrawler]

 

 

I had another look this morning and fairleads are probably going to be grand.

 

They shouldn't cost that much

[David Mack]

Square handrail/gutter seems likely to be made from the same sheet thickness as the roof.

They are usually formed by welding an unequal leg angle section between the cabin side (extended above the roof line) and the roof plate. So typically 3-4mm thick on the top and inside face, whatever thickness is used for the cabin side and roof plates.

[blackrose]

Hi there.

 

I am thinking I'll move my centre line fixings so I have one at each side rather than one central welded hoop (Liverpool boat).

 

Thinking M10 eye bolts screwed into handrail (not an actual rail, square thing) is this best?

 

Am not welding owt.

 

Cheers

 

Sam

Ps. Reason is extra solar.

 

I wouldn't screw them into the handrails. They're only about 3mm wall thickness.

 

I put 2 x M24 eyebolts into my 5mm thick roof - drilled holes, put nuts and big washers underneath and then welded them in! Belt & braces!

 

 

I also screwed some big fairleads into the handrails for the centreropes to go through with M10 stainless machine screws. But because the integral handrails are thin I pumped some two-part construction resin through the threaded holes I'd drilled and into the hollow rails to give the threads of the screws something to grip on.

Edited December 3, 2013 by blackrose