Running under load

[Guest]

Very strong stuff, cobweb

 

Richard

 

Relatively....

[Guest]

Very strong stuff, cobweb

 

Richard

Makes good soundproofing too. I had to remove the boat horn recently as it had got as quiet as a kittens fart. It was packed full of cobweb, which I had to dig out with a screwdriver. It made me cringe doing it 'cause I hate spiders.

[Guest]

Makes good soundproofing too. I had to remove the boat horn recently as it had got as quiet as a kittens fart. It was packed full of cobweb, which I had to dig out with a screwdriver. It made me cringe doing it 'cause I hate spiders.

 

I love spiders, I find them fascinating and they kill flies which makes them OK with me.

 

Jan doesn't share my fascination with them however so I compromise by taking them outside the boat/house in a jar or glass....

[Guest]

I love spiders, I find them fascinating and they kill flies which makes them OK with me.

 

Jan doesn't share my fascination with them however so I compromise by taking them outside the boat/house in a jar or glass....

Rather strange I know, but they fascinate me, yet give me the creeps at the same time. They have some amazing features, and as you say kill flies and suchlike, so I like the work that they do. I just don't trust anything with more than four legs, and am not keen on insects and suchlike.

[Ange]

I love spiders, I find them fascinating and they kill flies which makes them OK with me.

 

Jan doesn't share my fascination with them however so I compromise by taking them outside the boat/house in a jar or glass....

 

I was raised not to hurt spiders ("if you want to live and thrive, let a spider run alive") and can tolerate them up to a certain size. Once they get humungous they have to go though. Dave got fed up with being woken up at night to put them out humanely and bought me one of these

 

spider catcher

 

It works a treat!

[Grace and Favour]

That's the one! After 9 years I finally find out how to increase the revs in neutral!

 

It's all this mechanical stuff. Far too complex, what's needed is software and electronics to simplify it!

 

Thanks

 

See - - - I knew I wasn't 'talking bollo's'

[jonathanA]

Not an option on the morse control fitted to my boat. The only options are tickover out of gear and forward / reverse in gear. There is no other lever to pull out. The gearbox is a prm120 so there may be an issue running it at speed out of gear.

 

Just checked the PRM website. It only says that the engine has to be at idle when changing gearbox direction. There is nothing about engine speed out of gear. It may be a small print item or a cost saving by Liverpool when the built the boat.

 

I'm no expert but I've never seen a morse control on a Nb, speedboat or work boat that didn't have the option to increase revs in neutral (often needed for starting anyway).

 

sometimes the overide is hard to find - you have to push in a button on mine cunningly disguised as a bit of square plastic at the base of my lever, others have to be pulled put and some have some sort of arrnagement on the handles itself...

 

stick a picture on here and someone will advise you for your control.

[bottle]

Jonathan,

 

See post # 43.

[jonathanA]

Jonathan,

 

See post # 43.

Monday morning not engaged brain fully...

 

thanks !

[Proper Job]

That's the one! After 9 years I finally find out how to increase the revs in neutral!

 

It's all this mechanical stuff. Far too complex, what's needed is software and electronics to simplify it!

 

Thanks

Bloody complicated this modern stuff

 

I'll stick with:

Push the lever for forward, pull it back for reverse and neutral is some where in between (although never in the same place as last time. Rotate the wheel clockwise for more farty bang bang. Anti clockwise for less.

 

Sorted

[David Mack]

Monday morning not engaged brain fully...

 

thanks !

You mean you found the button that let's you operate mouth/keyboard fingers without the brain engaged!

[swift1894]

Main prob with tickover is the time it takes to reach max operating temp,higher revs are needed in the early stages to reach this temp, running at tickover from cold will take ages (if at all, especially in cold weather) for rings to expand sufficiently to prevent bore glaze, once full operating temp has been rapidly attained and thermostat is working ok engine can then maintain this temp.

 

So is it good practice to run an engine at fast speed IMMEDIATELY from starting, to get it up to temperature before engaging gear?

Or is that a bit of a shock to a cold engine?

So what would be a good warmup speed for a Gardner 4LW for example?

[nb Innisfree]

So is it good practice to run an engine at fast speed IMMEDIATELY from starting, to get it up to temperature before engaging gear?

Or is that a bit of a shock to a cold engine?

So what would be a good warmup speed for a Gardner 4LW for example?

 

I don't know rev range of your engine but any modern engine should idle for several secs when started from cold to get oil circulating then gradually increase revs up to about half speed with some load on, this lets engine reach operating temp quickly without putting too much strain on cold bearing surfaces.

 

Ideal way is to preheat engine, we do this with our Mikuni, temp almost reaches operating temp, after starting full temp is reached in minutes instead of the usual 1hour.

[ditchcrawler]

I don't know rev range of your engine but any modern engine should idle for several secs when started from cold to get oil circulating then gradually increase revs up to about half speed with some load on, this lets engine reach operating temp quickly without putting too much strain on cold bearing surfaces.

 

Ideal way is to preheat engine, we do this with our Mikuni, temp almost reaches operating temp, after starting full temp is reached in minutes instead of the usual 1hour.

I agree with what you say, but I think you will find that a lot of boat manuals say, select neutral and set the throtal to half before starting the engine

[nb Innisfree]

I agree with what you say, but I think you will find that a lot of boat manuals say, select neutral and set the throtal to half before starting the engine

 

I would think that is just for starting, as soon as engine fires then throttle should be reduced?

[BruceinSanity]

I would think that is just for starting, as soon as engine fires then throttle should be reduced?

 

Sam Matts at Foxton once told me you should aim to start with the throttle set for around 1500 rpm, then throttle back immediately. Reduces stress on the drive belts, according to him.

[RLWP]

Now, I wouldn't give a damn about drive belts, they're consumables. I would care very much about getting oil to the main bearings as engine rebuilds are expensive

 

Anyway, our BMC won't start with the speed set at idle

 

Richard

[bizzard]

I only run fast under load when i'm off to the toilet after eating plums.

Ps. That's a relief.

Edited July 7, 2012 by bizzard

[Albion]

Sam Matts at Foxton once told me you should aim to start with the throttle set for around 1500 rpm, then throttle back immediately. Reduces stress on the drive belts, according to him.

I would think that that advice was given on the basis of reducing the more exaggerated torsional vibration that can occur during start up (particularly if there is some misfire during start up) bearing in mind that the belts are loaded with the inertia of alternators possibly delivering high load. Frankly, as Richard has said, I don't think it is a serious consideration but most engines will require some open throttle to fire them up. As long as you don't rev the whatsits off them when starting then I wouldn't worry too much about it and, in modern engines, the oil pressure will soon reach working pressures.

Roger

[nb Innisfree]

Now, I wouldn't give a damn about drive belts, they're consumables. I would care very much about getting oil to the main bearings as engine rebuilds are expensive

 

Anyway, our BMC won't start with the speed set at idle

 

Richard

 

You could crank the engine with stop lever actuated for a few seconds before releasing and letting engine start, would pre-lube bearings. Better still if you have a decompressor mechanism as it would give starter battery an easier time.

 

ETA: After an oil change and before starting up I always crank engine until oil light goes out.

Edited July 7, 2012 by nb Innisfree

[bizzard]

You could crank the engine with stop lever actuated for a few seconds before releasing and letting engine start, would pre-lube bearings. Better still if you have a decompressor mechanism as it would give starter battery an easier time.

 

ETA: After an oil change and before starting up I always crank engine until oil light goes out.

I don't think there's any need to, The BMC has plenty of built in starting delay especially in the winter, plenty long enough to build oil pressure.

[RLWP]

<snip>

 

built in starting delay

 

<snap>

 

 

Richard

[Albion]

I don't think there's any need to, The BMC has plenty of built in starting delay especially in the winter, plenty long enough to build oil pressure.

I agree entirely. How many car engines are cranked over in service garages until the oil light goes out after an oil change during routine servicing and how many car engines run their bearings as a result? I say that as an ex-garage owner with some experience.

Roger

[bizzard]

I agree entirely. How many car engines are cranked over in service garages until the oil light goes out after an oil change during routine servicing and how many car engines run their bearings as a result? I say that as an ex-garage owner with some experience.

Roger

Quite so especially with modern oils that leave a film on frictional surfaces.

[nb Innisfree]

We have an LPWS4 which starts instantly (unless, that is, the starter solenoid decides not to co-operate) Same with modern car engines, very nice but I do feel a bit uneasy on a freezing cold morning at the thought of everything instantly racing around at 1000rpm or more without the benefit of a little pre- lubrication, true modern oils are amazing but they still don't perform anywhere near as well cold as when up to operating temp.

 

Majority of engine wear takes place while it is cold.

Edited July 7, 2012 by nb Innisfree