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I am taking my ceiling down this weekend and need to replace it. I am torn between tongue and groove and ply... so I was wondering what those of you that have done it have done, why you chose that, how easy/difficult it was and what you would do different given the chance.

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Hi,

I've done both and recommend t+g for easy handling. Shifting big sheets of ply around can be very frustrating.

Good luck,

Cris

 

 

Did you get the wood from a wood yard or a DIY shop? My mate did his with t+g from the diy shop and said it was fine, but I thought it would be too dry. Did you just bung yours up, or did you have to leave gaps (other than the edge)?

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I am taking my ceiling down this weekend and need to replace it. I am torn between tongue and groove and ply... so I was wondering what those of you that have done it have done, why you chose that, how easy/difficult it was and what you would do different given the chance.

I used waterproof MDF which I routed out to look like T&G and then painted it white.

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Did you get the wood from a wood yard or a DIY shop? My mate did his with t+g from the diy shop and said it was fine, but I thought it would be too dry. Did you just bung yours up, or did you have to leave gaps (other than the edge)?

If uising t+g, wherever you buy it and whichever route you take it's going to expand and contract a fair bit, so do yourself a favour and finish it before fixing it. That way, when it shrinks you won't see ugly unfinished bits of tongue.

 

Tony

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I've got 4mm veneered ply sheets on my ceiling, and they're a piece of proverbial to take down and up. One edge in beading strip on the cabin side, and the other tacked to ceiling batons (gap in centre covered by separate channel). This is standard LB config, though, and given the arch on the roof I can't have T&G. Even B&Qs wood isn't that warped.

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Even B&Qs wood isn't that warped.

 

I am suprised, every time I have had to buy wood from their (due to poor planning) it has been either warped or damaged by the fork lift.

 

I have oak faced ply and whilst it looks nice it has to be sealed rather well to stop that black tanin stain.

 

Tim

Edited by Tim Doran
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I am taking my ceiling down this weekend and need to replace it. I am torn between tongue and groove and ply... so I was wondering what those of you that have done it have done, why you chose that, how easy/difficult it was and what you would do different given the chance.

 

Haven't actually done it myself but two boats that I've had built for me were done with some ply sheet first and then that was covered with some white melamine faced either hardboard or ply (can't remember which now). It's a wipe clean surface and doesn't ever need redecorating but doesn't perhaps have the character of T&G planking.

Roger

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I think I am erring on the side of ply.

 

Haven't actually done it myself but two boats that I've had built for me were done with some ply sheet first and then that was covered with some white melamine faced either hardboard or ply (can't remember which now). It's a wipe clean surface and doesn't ever need redecorating but doesn't perhaps have the character of T&G planking.

Roger

 

 

why did you have to two coverings? Just for the wipe down ability? I was wondering, breifly, whether I could get away with adding that onto the t&g ceiling I have, but I can't... the current ceiling seems to want to be the floor.

Edited by Bones
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I think I am erring on the side of ply.

 

 

 

 

why did you have to two coverings? Just for the wipe down ability? I was wondering, breifly, whether I could get away with adding that onto the t&g ceiling I have, but I can't... the current ceiling seems to want to be the floor.

Turn the boat upside down then

Job sorted

Simples

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Or put the ceiling on the outside of the roof. Save the crane hire

 

Richard

Couldn't you use an inverse wired flux capacitator powered by an out of phase Alcubierre drive to create a localised gravity inversion?

 

Or is that just silly?

 

Tony

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Couldn't you use an inverse wired flux capacitator powered by an out of phase Alcubierre drive to create a localised gravity inversion?

 

Or is that just silly?

 

Tony

 

Of course it's silly. How are you going to get a narrowboat up to 88 miles an hour?

 

Richard

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Couldn't you use an inverse wired flux capacitator powered by an out of phase Alcubierre drive to create a localised gravity inversion?

 

Or is that just silly?

 

Tony

 

To play with a quote from Red Dwarf..

 

A superlative suggestion, sir, with just two minor flaws. One, we don't have an inverse wired flux capacitator , and two, we don't have an inverse wired flux capacitator . Now I realise that, technically speaking, that's only one flaw but I thought it was such a big one it was worth mentioning twice. :lol:

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To play with a quote from Red Dwarf..

 

A superlative suggestion, sir, with just two minor flaws. One, we don't have an inverse wired flux capacitator , and two, we don't have an inverse wired flux capacitator . Now I realise that, technically speaking, that's only one flaw but I thought it was such a big one it was worth mentioning twice. :lol:

:lol::lol::lol:

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We've just done ours with tongue and groove, with a service void down the centre, covered with reverse tongue and groove:

 

 

 

PC

 

 

was it easy? Where did you get the wood from?

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Hi Bones

 

I did mine with wait for it............ Floor laminate. I made it up on the floor having determined and cutting it to length to fit when arched. I made it upside down, glued the joints, then along the outer edges i stuck 2 x 1 (1"high) When it was all dry i lifted it up into place onto the pre glued old roof. Then used some props to hold it in place while the glue set. It worked a treat.

 

I used the same on the walls. The ceiling pretty much held its self in place as the curve made it spring against the side.

 

Photo of my NB ceiling

 

NB%20ceiling.jpg

 

Biggles

Edited by Biggles
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We used 9mm far eastern ply in 8 x 4 sheets. There is a strip each side of 18mm which has the lights and wiring underneath. A strip of moulding finishes the joins. We then brushed on a weak solution of polyfiller, to get a smooth finish, rubbing it down with all the windows open. This got painted with kitchen paint. A quick paint every few years (done 3 times in 20yrs) and it washes down a treat. We made T pieces to hold the sheets up whilst they were fixed.

You are welcome to look we should be down the Oxford June/July

Sue

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