Home made stove

[NBMike]

Well i wasnt expecting all the good remarks, thanks guys, i have read a little about the BSS and BS standards, not much though but i will look into it more when its done, if i cant use it on my cruiser i can use it in my workshop. Good info there you gave aswell, thanks.

 

Ok as it is at the minute what else do you suggest i do to it, i was thinking of some vetns at the top sides ( 4 six mm holes ) there is going to a adjustble damper on the front as you can see in chalk.

I wanted to fit a top flue but i want a hot plate (brass or copper, cost dependent) of about 4inch/100mm to boil a kettle on top, i dont think there will be room for both as the top is 300mm/12inch x 200mm8inch.I was going to have an oven but it is to small, would of been nice, maybe next time.

 

So is there anything important i have missed out.

 

For testing i am thinking of sitting it on a sheet of chipboard and some near the sides and see how it goes, but as suggested i will check with the BSS/BS standards and do it to there settings.

Thanks Richard .

 

On the BS, the grate size measurments for the cubic cm, do i need to take the area the fire brick takes up?

 

wayne

Why don't you make the top a little larger all round. It would soon get to the same heat all over and you'd maybe have room for a stew-pot too!

Mike

[W+T]

Got a bit more done, been busy on my boat and resting and so on.

I have decided to make my own hinges as i couldnt find any that were reasonable and looked right. I found some old gate hinges in the shed, i was tring to find a thick wall tubing but i gave up, didnt want to buy a full length just for this.

 

So thinges and the extra part i had to make

 

 

 

 

 

Oh and made the ash draw also, not sure about the habdle yet, mite look for something else lying about int shed

 

 

 

I have done this catch, now tell me please if you think it will work as i dont know how tight the door needs to be when closed, i have seen most on a hooked catch which get tighter when you close it.

 

 

 

 

As you can see this is only tacked in place so easy removed.

[springy]

Coming along Nicely - Hinges are just about perfect !

 

Re ash pan handle - doesnt really matter exactly how it looks / works but you need

a separate handle which hooks snugly into the hoop to allow you to lift the ash pan

with one hand, and then is detached when not in use - it means the handle stays

cool, whilst the ashpan itself will get hot.

 

Re the door latch - the "variable tension hook" you describe is usually used as it

easily allows for variation due to the stove body expanding/contracting due to

heat - you only need enough tension to ensure the rope seal maintains contact

all around the door. I fear that the catch as you have made it at the moment

could prove difficult to operate when the whole thing has warmed up a bit - you

will have to line up the holes to drop the peg in - whilst that might be ok when

all is cold - provided that you set it up with the sealing rope installed, the alignment

could change when everthing warms up.

 

The other way of latching has a knob on the outside, a rod through the door & then

a bar which swings down inside the stove body to hold the door shut - on my vilager

this has a pan head bolt in the end which allows me to adjust the pressure on the rope

seal, alternatively you could weld a bit of steel on the inside & use a grinder to refine

it into a "ramp" which gives adjustable pressure.

 

springy

 

edited cos I cant spell propper

Edited March 16, 2010 by springy

[W+T]

Ah never even crossed my mind Springy about the steel expanding with the heat, easy sorted that, also the draw, i can nock up a long handle to fit in when needed.

 

I was going to make a variable tension hook but just being lazy , can easy make one i guess.

[W+T]

Near done, got a temperary grate made and the front air adjuster, the top needs a flue now which ii hope i can find tomorro for a quick trial run this weekend.

 

 

 

 

Oh and the top needs a little finishing off plus a few other wee bits like feet for bolting down and anything else i have missed.

[Liam]

JUst wondering about the ash can setup... at the front, are you able to make sure that there will be no air gap at all, whatsoever, because if there is it'll cause the fire to burn rather warm with the amount of air it gets!

[W+T]

JUst wondering about the ash can setup... at the front, are you able to make sure that there will be no air gap at all, whatsoever, because if there is it'll cause the fire to burn rather warm with the amount of air it gets!

 

 

Hi Liam yes i will be getting some rope behind the edge of the draw as like the door to seal it and will have a catch to keep it shut, only have 8mm rope to hand which mite do but i would prefer a smaller size rope.

I will see if it needs it as soon as i give it a test run, there isnt much gap behind it realy, just need to make a catch for it.

[steelaway]

Hi

Top job

 

Could you not make a hook and pivot latch arrangment for the door (like a garden gate latch)

That should allow for expansion, at least in one direction.

I would have shaped the sides as you have the front, making smaller feet.

So as not to have to much heat transfered to the floor.

 

Still better than I could achieve

 

Alex

[W+T]

Hi

Top job

 

Could you not make a hook and pivot latch arrangment for the door (like a garden gate latch)

That should allow for expansion, at least in one direction.

I would have shaped the sides as you have the front, making smaller feet.

So as not to have to much heat transfered to the floor.

 

Still better than I could achieve

 

Alex

 

Hi Alex, i am going to make a new catch if this one goes a bit tight once in use, mite do it before yet. Just want to get it fired up..like a big kid realy LOL

 

I was going to do the sides and back the same but after cutting the front and door and draw with my angle grinder i got fed up with it, but i will have to if the legs get to hot once fired up, i will be wanting to keep a few bits of wood under there if its ok to do so aswell.

You say better than you could achieve, all i have used is an 4.5 inch angle grinder and small mig and drill. if you think about it all it is is a metal box with a door.

thanks wayne

[NBMike]

Hi Alex, i am going to make a new catch if this one goes a bit tight once in use, mite do it before yet. Just want to get it fired up..like a big kid realy LOL

 

I was going to do the sides and back the same but after cutting the front and door and draw with my angle grinder i got fed up with it, but i will have to if the legs get to hot once fired up, i will be wanting to keep a few bits of wood under there if its ok to do so aswell.

You say better than you could achieve, all i have used is an 4.5 inch angle grinder and small mig and drill. if you think about it all it is is a metal box with a door.

thanks wayne

I didn't know what true joy was till I bought a second-hand plasma cutter from E-Bay. Beats an angle grinder any day ( For cutting anyway!)

Mike

 

Hi Alex, i am going to make a new catch if this one goes a bit tight once in use, mite do it before yet. Just want to get it fired up..like a big kid realy LOL

 

I was going to do the sides and back the same but after cutting the front and door and draw with my angle grinder i got fed up with it, but i will have to if the legs get to hot once fired up, i will be wanting to keep a few bits of wood under there if its ok to do so aswell.

You say better than you could achieve, all i have used is an 4.5 inch angle grinder and small mig and drill. if you think about it all it is is a metal box with a door.

thanks wayne

I didn't know what true joy was till I bought a second-hand plasma cutter from E-Bay. Beats an angle grinder any day ( For cutting anyway!)

Mike

 

I was going to sell it on when boat construction finished but I don't think I could part with it now!

[W+T]

I didn't know what true joy was till I bought a second-hand plasma cutter from E-Bay. Beats an angle grinder any day ( For cutting anyway!)

Mike

 

 

I didn't know what true joy was till I bought a second-hand plasma cutter from E-Bay. Beats an angle grinder any day ( For cutting anyway!)

Mike

 

I was going to sell it on when boat construction finished but I don't think I could part with it now!

 

 

Got one here, great tool, a cheap chinese one but good tool, well the best thing i have got, just i bit of a push to cut 10mm thick stuff, but then i can clean it up a bit. Mite have a go tonite or weekend.

 

It gives a cut similar to oxy cutting on 10mm steel. And very slow to do it.

[stuart]

With your existing pin and hole door catch, what are you going to do with the pin when you take it out to open the door? Its going to be quite hot so you can't put it down on the floor or on surfaces that may burn/mark ?

[Grace and Favour]

With your existing pin and hole door catch, what are you going to do with the pin when you take it out to open the door? Its going to be quite hot so you can't put it down on the floor or on surfaces that may burn/mark ?

 

Just pop it into your shirt pocket - it'll save the floor from getting dusty!

[W+T]

With your existing pin and hole door catch, what are you going to do with the pin when you take it out to open the door? Its going to be quite hot so you can't put it down on the floor or on surfaces that may burn/mark ?

 

Good thinking, i could hang it on a chain or put in on the tiled floor around the stove. I will more than likely make a better catch but tonight i couldnt wait to get it going, i got some pipe for free so i used this for the flue, its 3mm side wall water pipe/steam pipe, bit heafty but for a trial it worked fine.

 

It fired up staright away witha little paper and kindling, within not time i added some 3x2 off cuts, then after 5 mins 4 blocks of anthracite egg, all this with the vents fully open, . The wood didnt last long at all, i added 6 more anthracite with the vents fully open, burned up great, i then moved the vent over to half and after about 20 mins from start untill now its like this.

 

 

 

Well i did have a video but it is taking verrrrry long to load it.

 

I will try again later to find a quick way to do it.

[W+T]

Well after a bit of head banging i have found out how to load a video

 

This is it near fully loaded, it burns with half vent open for about 8hrs, it needs the draw left open half inch to get it roaring, and it does that

I loaded it with 10 coal eggs plus a few bits ofwood for this.

I have had it going 8 times now, the catch as is stand well, dont get stuck and still workable, the grate has not failed yet, so chuffed with that, thought it mite of melted by now.

 

One thing though, the glass keeps getting black, is that because there is a air gap at the top of the door? if so i can get a thicker rope.

 

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[Barry]

Coincidentally I watched a "how it works" on sky tonight and there was a bit on about wood burning stoves.

 

It said that the particular one on show had low down front vents that allowed fresh air into the stove and baffles guided the air across the glass to help prevent it from blackening. Since you have built from scratch it might be worth experimenting, maybe taking some rope off the bottom of the glass to let air in beneath it, and see what happens

Edited March 22, 2010 by Bazza2

[paulcatchpole]

Coincidentally I watched a "how it works" on sky tonight and there was a bit on about wood burning stoves.

 

It said that the particular one on show had low down front vents that allowed fresh air into the stove and baffles guided the air across the glass to help prevent it from blackening. Since you have built from scratch it might be worth experimenting, maybe taking some rope off the bottom of the glass to let air in beneath it, and see what happens

 

Aye, our ickle Boatman was supposed to do that 'airwash' trick, but it never managed it. We used to clean the glass out on a regular basis...

 

PC

[W+T]

Well atleast it dont have a dodgy leak.

I will try the `air wash` thing next time i fire it up, probabley tomoz nite.

 

Oh and forgot to mention, the base doesnet even get to hot, you can just touch it with bare hand about 3 inch up the base.

[soldthehouse]

Well atleast it dont have a dodgy leak.

I will try the `air wash` thing next time i fire it up, probabley tomoz nite.

 

Oh and forgot to mention, the base doesnet even get to hot, you can just touch it with bare hand about 3 inch up the base.

The sooty door will not be helped by the use of timber. Cant wait to see what kind of narrowboat you build when you get to it Wayne keep it up.

[springy]

<snip>

It said that the particular one on show had low down front vents that allowed fresh air into the stove and baffles guided the air across the glass to help prevent it from blackening. <snip>

 

My villager has "airwash" - not stunningly effective at keeping the glass perfectly clear, but I suppose

I haven't really tested it without, but IIRC it is based on the vents being above the glass and quite

tightly baffled so that air flow is forced across the glass.

 

springy

[blackrose]

My villager has "airwash" - not stunningly effective at keeping the glass perfectly clear, but I suppose

I haven't really tested it without, but IIRC it is based on the vents being above the glass and quite

tightly baffled so that air flow is forced across the glass.

 

springy

 

I suspect 'airwash' works better in houses with full size flues.

[WotEver]

Well atleast it dont have a dodgy leak.

I will try the `air wash` thing next time i fire it up, probabley tomoz nite.

 

Oh and forgot to mention, the base doesnet even get to hot, you can just touch it with bare hand about 3 inch up the base.

So when do you weld on the back boiler?

 

T

[W+T]

So when do you weld on the back boiler?

 

T

 

 

That had been in my mnd from start, it come by the idea i have for adding the bilge blower and vent ing air through, i was going to add a small boiler and have it run a small radiator in the rear cabin, nothing to say i still cant is there, but how much power would the water pump take.......did you have to Tony, got me back on that idea again

 

I think i will drill have a dozen 8mm holes along th top edge above the door to see if that helps at all. If it doesnt alter anything i can weld them back up.

[W+T]

Ok i am at it again, Tonys fault .

 

I am going to make a back boiler for the stove, it will run just one small rad of about 24 inch x 18 inch, the boiler will be around 10x8x4 inch.

I have priced up fitting already at the local plumbers, inlet and outlet plus a fill for the tank, around £18, switched thermostat at £20 which kicks in at either the low temp one 35c-45c or heavey duty 55c-65c. Not sure which to go for.

A water pump i need help with as which size i need, i am not sure but i dont need a high pressure or high flow one, please advice on that. Seen a few on ebay either a 3Lm which has a low amp draw of 2.5 or a higher one at 10Lm which draw 4.5amp, i think the lower amp the better.

My Plan

 

As said back boiler with an outlet to the thermo/switch a few inch along inline switched to the pump, then to the rad in the rear cabin, maybe one in the cockpit to be posh , then put the pump on the return to the boiler.

I will need to remopve the raer fire bricks i think, i will see when its running how hot it gets without it.

 

 

Sounds to easy so please tell me what i am missing....maybe the plot

 

 

wayne

 

 

editing as keep forgetting bits

Edited March 23, 2010 by W+T

[W+T]

Would this pump suit, its high amp draw but as it will be running just a short run will it use less amps?

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