springy

IIRC the gyroscopic effects of the rotating mass of the barrels and pistons meant that if you had to turn just after take off and "chose" the wrong direction it could bring you back down to earth sideways. springy

I thought that too, but a quick google found this video on you tube (somewhat smaller prop - I'd guess about 8 - 10 inches and smaller blade area), but its actually relatively straightforward for a skilled foundryman. Still needs a lot of careful work. And then you've still got to machine and balance it.

If the manufacturer has specified a 15A fuse then there may be INTERNAL cables only rated to 15A, I would be wary of exceeding this by much. Would something like this allow you to connect to your breaker :- https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/copper-tube-pins------reduction-terminals----to-suit-10mm2---70mm2-cables-13992-p.asp or these https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/non-insulated-pins--to-suit-10mm2---70mm2-cables-15645-p.asp springy

AES link for 12V https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/129 springy

one of these perhaps (can often be found second hand much cheaper) https://www.richmondkettlecompany.com/our-collection/richmond-heritage-no-1/ springy

Ohms law relates Voltage, Current and Resistance, I'm using power calculation, Power (Watts) = Volts x Amps, rearranged as Power / Volts = Amps springy

First check the physical size - usually 20mm (long by 5mm diameter), or 1/4 inch (diameter by 1 1/4 inch long) - often referred to by first quoted dimension hence the reversal. To determine the current rating you need to consider/investigate what they are feeding - water pumps are often marked with the fuse rating on the body of the pump, Tunnel lights are often 55W halogen bulbs and will theoretically require 55 (W) / 12 (V) = fuse rating 4.6 (A) and then add a little bit to get to the nearest available rating HOWEVER this assumes that the cable runs are suitably sized for the length - I would not be surprised to find a 5A fuse would not be sufficient for the tunnel light due to voltage drop over a long run even with suitably sized cable. Cabin lights - add the wattage of ALL the lights protected by the fuse together and calculate as above - eg 8 x 2W LEDs = 16 W - a 2A fuse would be sufficient, for 8 x 5W LEDs = 40W you would need 5A etc. Remember the fuse is to protect the cable. As Tony said 10A should be OK for the lighting, the pumps you need to check individually, The horn is a high current device, and a long cable run BUT is only used for relatively short periods (5 - 10 seconds ?) - would probably need 15A assuming suitably sized cable. Undersized cable increases the current to compensate for voltage drop. The existing fuses should be marked on the metal cap with their rating though it can be difficult to read - I often need a lens and good lighting to read it - oblique lighting may help. springy

An 'oss on the towpath is very effective at clearing the anglers. springy

I presumed "Livestock", I started with this page https://www.gov.uk/government/statistical-data-sets/livestock-prices-finished-and-store which leads to a table giving 593.2 p/kg average price for sheep in January, and this page (n. Ireland) https://www.lmcni.com/market-information/market-update/ gives an average price 550 - 560 p/kg for march. However a bit more digging lead me to this page (you need to select a market to view prices) https://ahdb.org.uk/beef-lamb/individual-finished-auction-markets which gives prices in the range 220 - 300 p/kg for livestock markets and this page https://ahdb.org.uk/gb-deadweight-sheep-prices gives prices ex abattoirs in the range 450 - 580 p/kg, which seems to be more in line with the .gov.uk prices, but the gov.uk is listed as "livestock". I'm confused, though I probably just don't understand some of the details. All the same given the tendency of sheep to just die for any old reason as has already been mentioned, most farmers would probably make at least some effort to discourage/prevent loss of their stock for economic reasons. springy

Current market values of £100 + for a 20kg lamb would suggest otherwise - you wouldn't want to loose many. springy

The Red cap is your Pressure Relief Valve (PRV), as the water in the calorifier heats up it expands - this could burst it if it rises too high so the PRV should vent any excess. They are notorious for dribbling - sometimes it is just crud on the seat and rotating the red cap a few times will cause the valve to open and clear the crud. If the domestic water pump has been changed it could be running at a higher pressure then it would also cause the PRV to vent. If there is no Expansion Vessel fitted (not to be confused with an Accumulator - which may be identical in appearance) then this could also cause the PRV to vent. The top of the red cap should be marked with its set pressure - often 3.5 bar, but it should be matched to the calorifier design pressure. springy

It probably depends on the brand of the gauge - IIRC European and American manufacturers use different designs and using the wrong one will give inaccurate readings. springy beaten to it by Tony

If the water pump (presumably domestic water pump) is kicking in every so often then it is most likely you have a leak somewhere in the system (it could be the pump non return valve but this would not show up in the bilge). If you don't have a calorifier with a PRV then almost certainly you have a leak some where. Check EVERY joint with with tissue - I find the stuff on large blue rolls shows the damp patches easier. springy

The instructions suggest that it is a low voltage warning - check your batteries https://www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/images/Documents/Shoreline_Installation_Instructions_2020.pdf springy