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springy

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Everything posted by springy

  1. Might be worth having a good look around the ring on the nut which retains the copper pipe - if its "wade" brand they are often marked with the size of the compression fitting. springy
  2. Where is the control valve - if it is also inside the reservoir then unfortunately then the PRV will most likely be inside as well, if the control valve is external then as BEngo said it could be part of the control valve but my guess would be on the pump itself so that when the PRV opens oil is just returned to the reservoir. If you remove the filler cap you might, with the aid of a torch (or even an endoscope), be able to see some movement in the oil when the engine is running (it might need some oil removing temporarily to make movement more obvious) which might give a clue. springy
  3. There should be a relief valve somewhere which if stuck or failed open might cause the same symptoms, no idea where it would be located though. springy
  4. I did a similar thing a few years ago. If the replacement alternator has a bigger "frame" you will also need a slightly longer belt (you were going to fit a new one anyway weren't you) - check the dimension between the centre of the pulley and the pair of mounting eyes compared with the existing one. Also, this may not apply but, in my case it moved the outside of the alternator perilously close to the sound deadening on the side cover panel (cured with a bit of work with a stanley knife). Don't be tempted to over tension the belt to make up for the extra load - it will wear out the water pump bearing (DAMHIK). springy
  5. IIRC the gyroscopic effects of the rotating mass of the barrels and pistons meant that if you had to turn just after take off and "chose" the wrong direction it could bring you back down to earth sideways. springy
  6. I thought that too, but a quick google found this video on you tube (somewhat smaller prop - I'd guess about 8 - 10 inches and smaller blade area), but its actually relatively straightforward for a skilled foundryman. Still needs a lot of careful work. And then you've still got to machine and balance it.
  7. If the manufacturer has specified a 15A fuse then there may be INTERNAL cables only rated to 15A, I would be wary of exceeding this by much. Would something like this allow you to connect to your breaker :- https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/copper-tube-pins------reduction-terminals----to-suit-10mm2---70mm2-cables-13992-p.asp or these https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/non-insulated-pins--to-suit-10mm2---70mm2-cables-15645-p.asp springy
  8. AES link for 12V https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/129 springy
  9. one of these perhaps (can often be found second hand much cheaper) https://www.richmondkettlecompany.com/our-collection/richmond-heritage-no-1/ springy
  10. Ohms law relates Voltage, Current and Resistance, I'm using power calculation, Power (Watts) = Volts x Amps, rearranged as Power / Volts = Amps springy
  11. First check the physical size - usually 20mm (long by 5mm diameter), or 1/4 inch (diameter by 1 1/4 inch long) - often referred to by first quoted dimension hence the reversal. To determine the current rating you need to consider/investigate what they are feeding - water pumps are often marked with the fuse rating on the body of the pump, Tunnel lights are often 55W halogen bulbs and will theoretically require 55 (W) / 12 (V) = fuse rating 4.6 (A) and then add a little bit to get to the nearest available rating HOWEVER this assumes that the cable runs are suitably sized for the length - I would not be surprised to find a 5A fuse would not be sufficient for the tunnel light due to voltage drop over a long run even with suitably sized cable. Cabin lights - add the wattage of ALL the lights protected by the fuse together and calculate as above - eg 8 x 2W LEDs = 16 W - a 2A fuse would be sufficient, for 8 x 5W LEDs = 40W you would need 5A etc. Remember the fuse is to protect the cable. As Tony said 10A should be OK for the lighting, the pumps you need to check individually, The horn is a high current device, and a long cable run BUT is only used for relatively short periods (5 - 10 seconds ?) - would probably need 15A assuming suitably sized cable. Undersized cable increases the current to compensate for voltage drop. The existing fuses should be marked on the metal cap with their rating though it can be difficult to read - I often need a lens and good lighting to read it - oblique lighting may help. springy
  12. An 'oss on the towpath is very effective at clearing the anglers. springy
  13. I presumed "Livestock", I started with this page https://www.gov.uk/government/statistical-data-sets/livestock-prices-finished-and-store which leads to a table giving 593.2 p/kg average price for sheep in January, and this page (n. Ireland) https://www.lmcni.com/market-information/market-update/ gives an average price 550 - 560 p/kg for march. However a bit more digging lead me to this page (you need to select a market to view prices) https://ahdb.org.uk/beef-lamb/individual-finished-auction-markets which gives prices in the range 220 - 300 p/kg for livestock markets and this page https://ahdb.org.uk/gb-deadweight-sheep-prices gives prices ex abattoirs in the range 450 - 580 p/kg, which seems to be more in line with the .gov.uk prices, but the gov.uk is listed as "livestock". I'm confused, though I probably just don't understand some of the details. All the same given the tendency of sheep to just die for any old reason as has already been mentioned, most farmers would probably make at least some effort to discourage/prevent loss of their stock for economic reasons. springy
  14. Current market values of £100 + for a 20kg lamb would suggest otherwise - you wouldn't want to loose many. springy
  15. The Red cap is your Pressure Relief Valve (PRV), as the water in the calorifier heats up it expands - this could burst it if it rises too high so the PRV should vent any excess. They are notorious for dribbling - sometimes it is just crud on the seat and rotating the red cap a few times will cause the valve to open and clear the crud. If the domestic water pump has been changed it could be running at a higher pressure then it would also cause the PRV to vent. If there is no Expansion Vessel fitted (not to be confused with an Accumulator - which may be identical in appearance) then this could also cause the PRV to vent. The top of the red cap should be marked with its set pressure - often 3.5 bar, but it should be matched to the calorifier design pressure. springy
  16. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  17. It probably depends on the brand of the gauge - IIRC European and American manufacturers use different designs and using the wrong one will give inaccurate readings. springy beaten to it by Tony
  18. If the water pump (presumably domestic water pump) is kicking in every so often then it is most likely you have a leak somewhere in the system (it could be the pump non return valve but this would not show up in the bilge). If you don't have a calorifier with a PRV then almost certainly you have a leak some where. Check EVERY joint with with tissue - I find the stuff on large blue rolls shows the damp patches easier. springy
  19. The instructions suggest that it is a low voltage warning - check your batteries https://www.shoreline-marine.co.uk/images/Documents/Shoreline_Installation_Instructions_2020.pdf springy
  20. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  21. AWG - American Wire Gauge - there are plenty of conversion tables on the web, 14AWG is just over 2 mm2 CCSA - nearest metric equivalent is 2.5 mm2 CCSA so slightly bigger. This table gives 14AWG a maximum current rating of 32A for "chassis wiring" and 5.9A for "power transmission", they also quote resistance per KILOMETER so presumably the "power transmission" rating is for the (very) long distance stuff. https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm springy
  22. Montech has just been on TV - Abandoned Engineering on "Yesterday" channel, last item in the programme (series 2 episode 6) if anyone wants to find it on their catchup. springy
  23. springy

    Solenoid problem...

    Let a multimeter be your friend, measure the voltage between the solenoid to battery connection and starter body (should be battery voltage), both at rest and while cranking. also the starter input connection and starter body while cranking, also (for reference) the voltage across the battery terminals. This should hopefully pinpoint the problem, or at least indicate where to test next (isolator switch ?). You could also measure the voltage drop (while cranking) across the main solenoid terminals - holding the probes on both the studs first, and then on the cable terminals to check for poor connections. These measurements should only show as small or ideally zero volt drop. springy
  24. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  25. Whilst you might be able to obtain a bubble tester designed to be fitted vertically (and possibly significantly more expensive as they are not a common item), all the ones I've seen MUST be mounted horizontally in order to work. When actually testing the system they need to be reasonably level, though under normal use (not testing) they can be tilted as would be expected if the boat heeled over. springy
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