Home made stove

[Justme]

Dont think either of those will take the hot water.

 

You might want to round off the corners on the top a bit.

 

The airwash still needs a high burn temperature to work.

 

Thats why most still get black glass, well that & unseasoned wood.

 

 

Burn it hot & the glass will clean itself.

 

Put a baffle in the top to make the flue gasses travel further before then can leave the stove.

[W+T]

Dont think either of those will take the hot water.

 

You might want to round off the corners on the top a bit.

 

The airwash still needs a high burn temperature to work.

 

Thats why most still get black glass, well that & unseasoned wood.

 

 

Burn it hot & the glass will clean itself.

 

Put a baffle in the top to make the flue gasses travel further before then can leave the stove.

 

Which type of pump then should i try?

 

The top is not finished yet, a bit to do yet to that and a few bits, ned to make a gate to stop ash fallin gout when you open the door.

 

The air wash is on the back burner for now, no pun intended LOL

 

Where do you mean a baffle, from say the top of the back fire brick going up at 45 degrees to the front. If so will this work witht he holes above the door for airwash?

 

 

thanks for the post

 

wayne

Edited March 23, 2010 by W+T

[WotEver]

... Tonys fault

How many times in my life have I heard that...

[BEngo]

For circulation you want a Bollin pump- expensive, but very low current draw and dead quiet- remember it's going to be on a lot if the fire is going well and it will need to be if you're relying on the back boiler. Alternatively Johnson do a nice circulation pump, draws more than the Bollin but is cheaper and noisier. I have had one of these for 20 years now with a cylinder stat on the boiler outlet pipe to switch it on and off.

 

I have also seen a Grundfoss domestic CH pump wired to a small inverter.

 

Try to get a brushless motor as they last longer ( brushes can be as little as 1000 hours) and make sure it's rated at least at 90C- the cold water ones don't like hot water and the motor overheats.

 

N

[Justme]

For long pump life & cost use a mains powers grundfos alpha II. You can set the flow rate (and the power used to really low levels).

 

Yes the baffle goes from the back just below the flue outlet If its a rear flue or about 4" doen if its not) to the front at a shallow angle (1 in 6 or 7) leaving a gap at the front of about 3". The air was will still work. Take a trip to a stove shop & check out the designs.

 

Oh & pop over to http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/ and register & post your stuff there too. Full of good advice.

[W+T]

Ok so i needs to be spending over £100 on a pump, bit more than i hoped for but if needs must.

 

I have found i need to use a vented system with a header tank, i think i will need a small one, or one cut down from a plumbers as they are big , even the small ones.

 

I can find out but i will ask here for other folk to read,

 

Do i have the the feed from the pressure relief valve going to the header then a feed from the header to the system ring?

But just thought, what will feed the header, maybe a small pump from the main water tank tom keep it toped up.

 

Maybe it would be easyer to just make a pressurised setup, no header needed then? but when the pressure gets to high and its released what tops the system up.

 

my god it only central heating LOL.

 

hang on ill be back

[paulcatchpole]

For long pump life & cost use a mains powers grundfos alpha II. You can set the flow rate (and the power used to really low levels).

 

Yes the baffle goes from the back just below the flue outlet If its a rear flue or about 4" doen if its not) to the front at a shallow angle (1 in 6 or 7) leaving a gap at the front of about 3". The air was will still work. Take a trip to a stove shop & check out the designs.

 

Oh & pop over to http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/ and register & post your stuff there too. Full of good advice.

 

It should perhaps be noted that if you're going down the mains pump route, that it's worth using something like what Justme suggests, despite the cost - it's a variable speed pump that is quite economic. Our normal central heating pump ( a cheapish Peggler one) uses 30,60,90W on its three settings, which is quite a bit...

 

PC

[casper ghost]

What about a Bosch 12 volt coolant pump from a Vauxhall car. I've got one from a scrappy, they are rated for 20,000 hours but not sure what temperature they will cope with but must be fairly hot. Mine cost 1 pound I'm going to use mine to pump the coolant for my engine.

[W+T]

Ok if i use a mains pump i guees it wont run fron the 12v batteries?

 

I have been looking into a closed/ pressurised system, this looks doable , all it seams is that the boiler and stove need to be able to take the pressure, asweel as the pipe work so decent fittings need to be used to prevent against leaks. Obviousle use a pressure relief valve and a way to top it up with a low water level cut out.

I cant see why i cant set it up as a pressure system with trual runs at home then if it doesnt work go to a vented system. I an set it up at home in the workshop.

 

Worth a try.

 

Casper, nice idea, but i like the adjustable idea.

[paulcatchpole]

What about a Bosch 12 volt coolant pump from a Vauxhall car. I've got one from a scrappy, they are rated for 20,000 hours but not sure what temperature they will cope with but must be fairly hot. Mine cost 1 pound I'm going to use mine to pump the coolant for my engine.

 

How loud is it Casper?

 

We've got a Bosch VW one and it makes a high pitched whine that's really annoying, and doesn't pump that much.

 

Bosch also make 6" long tubular ones which I've replaced on 7-series BMWs before, which I'd imagine are more powerful - they look similar to the Jaguar and BMW ones on ebay, usually about £25 second hand.

 

Temp wise, I created a steam engine out of the Aga ages back and it's survived that, even though the plastic auto-air-vent melted inside.

 

PC

[steelaway]

Ok if i use a mains pump i guees it wont run fron the 12v batteries?

 

I have been looking into a closed/ pressurised system, this looks doable , all it seams is that the boiler and stove need to be able to take the pressure, asweel as the pipe work so decent fittings need to be used to prevent against leaks. Obviousle use a pressure relief valve and a way to top it up with a low water level cut out.

I cant see why i cant set it up as a pressure system with trual runs at home then if it doesnt work go to a vented system. I an set it up at home in the workshop.

 

Worth a try.

 

Casper, nice idea, but i like the adjustable idea.

 

 

Hi

 

I use one of these to pump engine heated water around my C/H - works perfectly.................Clicky

 

Alex

[W+T]

Hi

 

I use one of these to pump engine heated water around my C/H - works perfectly.................Clicky

 

Alex

 

 

Ah i was looking at that at first, thoguht it wouldnt work, but you have shown it does so theres another one to look at.

So how many rads you run with it? and size of system?

Not sure if it would work in a pressurised system though, what system is yours ? Is it a noisey one also?

[W+T]

For those who dont know, i have phoned a BSS examiner today about the newe regs for fitting stoves to our boats, he said that a date hasnt been set but when it will be in it is to do with ther new ISO regs and the masin part is to do with the fitting only, air cavity is needed besides fire board and a double insulated flue to go through the roof, but when it does come in they cant do anything about it as nobody makes the items needed to comply and nobody at the minute has plans to make them, it is only for new fitouts when being fitted.

Hope this helps a little.

 

wayne

[W+T]

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