Home made stove

[W+T]

Hi all, thought i would share this with you, i am not into the DIY stoves where a gas cylinder is used as the wall are way to thin for what i want so i did this.Upto now it has cost £20 and when finished around £70, i chose to make my own as i like to make things if at all possible, IMO also this will be better than the cheapo chinese stoves that can be bought.

 

 

The body is 300mmx200mm and 10mm wall, door is 40mmx8mm, i have a top and bottom of 6mm plate, and the ash draw will be of 3mm. Once made i will try it without fire brick and see how it goes, i realy want to burn coal aswell as wood though so more than likle need the brick.

 

If all is well i MITE use this on my cruiser.

 

Willupdate as i go.

[O'Mali]

Nice work and I hope it works.

 

I know what you mean about liking making things yourself. You will have a beer tonight planning what to do next eh?

 

Only thing I can see that you might want to think about is the legs and getting rid of the heat going down to the floor. I would have thought longish and skinny would be best.

 

Thanks for sharing.

[Nightwatch]

Can you get BBC2 on it?

 

 

Looks like a substantial jobby.

 

Will look good when completed I recon.

 

Martyn

[W+T]

Nice work and I hope it works.

 

I know what you mean about liking making things yourself. You will have a beer tonight planning what to do next eh?

 

Only thing I can see that you might want to think about is the legs and getting rid of the heat going down to the floor. I would have thought longish and skinny would be best.

 

Thanks for sharing.

 

Some say i do it the hard way, and why not just buy instead, now theres no fun in that is there.

 

I will be cutting the back and sides the same as the front to sort out a bit of the heat issues

 

Thanks Martyn, can only get sky, you want to see the dish i built

 

wayne

[casper ghost]

It looks like it's made from a giant sized length of box section. An oven in it would have been a nice addition while your starting from scratch.

Heat from the bottom shouldn't be much of an issue, I can put my hand on the bottom of my stove when it's alight, the heat tends to go up.

[Guest]

Well done, I hope it is a success. The world needs more people like you.

[W+T]

It looks like it's made from a giant sized length of box section. An oven in it would have been a nice addition while your starting from scratch.

Heat from the bottom shouldn't be much of an issue, I can put my hand on the bottom of my stove when it's alight, the heat tends to go up.

 

 

It is mate, i was going to get steel pate and weld them together,this saves a lot of time and welding, plus you get nice round corners, i was lucky to get an off cut from a place i deliver to.

 

 

Hi Stan, these little things keep me going kida, get fed up to quick

[Pluto]

Hi all, thought i would share this with you, i am not into the DIY stoves where a gas cylinder is used as the wall are way to thin for what i want so i did this.Upto now it has cost £20 and when finished around £70, i chose to make my own as i like to make things if at all possible, IMO also this will be better than the cheapo chinese stoves that can be bought.

 

 

 

The body is 300mmx200mm and 10mm wall, door is 40mmx8mm, i have a top and bottom of 6mm plate, and the ash draw will be of 3mm. Once made i will try it without fire brick and see how it goes, i realy want to burn coal aswell as wood though so more than likle need the brick.

 

If all is well i MITE use this on my cruiser.

 

Willupdate as i go.

It looks very similar to the traditional Leeds & Liverpool boat stoves, though they were made from cast iron. You need a hole above the fire so that you can use a baffle. Two sizes were usually available; a full one for starting the fire, and a half one which could be useful when windy and smoke got blown back down the chimney. You also need a trivet to clip on to the top of the front fire bars so you can have a kettle on the boil all the time. The L&LC ones often had designs cast into the front plate. In Lancashire, the stove pipes were round, while in Yorkshire they used square wooden chimneys lined with thin steel plate. I am, as part of the L&LC Society, thinking of producing castings for the grate, front and top plates so that replicas could be fabricated a little more easily than yours - which I think is excellent.

[alan_fincher]

It looks to have more than a passing resemblance to the Villager Heron and Puffin stoves.

 

These are all welded, other than the legs and the front doors.

 

They obviously don't use as thick steel, as you have though.

 

I'd have though a reason for DIY, if you are up to it, is that you'll not find anything as good commercially made at that much under £400.

 

I'd not give the various Chinese and Pot-belly stoves house room - yours looks heaps better.

 

One thing I wonder about, but don't know is the BSS, where I think they record all stoves and appliances, then calculate cabin ventilation requirements based on looking up their specification. Obviously yours will not be listed, (!), so perhaps one of the examiners on the forum could explain how this would work ?

 

I presume those new regs might prevent you showing such ingenuity in future, (but I've not studied them!).

[rjasmith]

Your stove looks good to me too!

 

With those fairly long legs it shouldn't be capable of heating its "hearth" surface up too much either. As Alan says, the difficulty might be in proving that.

 

Many, but by no means all commercial stoves these days are approved to BS 13240 and this means testing by the likes of TUV etc to find out what their rated output is and the safe distances to adjacent combustible stuff can be.

 

The current BSS ventilation formula is based on a standard for gas appliances (PD 5482) but this could be changed slightly. The new BS 8511 has a slightly different formula so that a tiny bit more ventilation is recommended now for a SF stove.

 

BS 8511 definitely recommends that stoves should EITHER be officially approved to BS 13240 OR it suggests that some of the tests from BS 13240 are done to show how it can be safely installed.

 

I've had a very quick look at BS 13240 and the tests don't seem to be too much like rocket science. (Basically you light the stove in a test rig using a defined amount of fuel with a defined length of flue and draught regulator settings. After temps have stabilised you start measuring and recording adjacent surface temps and see what you get.) It might be possible to do something like this when you've finished your stove. Try to have a read of BS 13240 and see what you think perhaps?

 

Maybe the BSS won't insist on BS 13240 approved stoves in the future but if you had a few test results to show the inspector one day it might help.

 

Another thing would be to calculate the firebox vol and grate area of your stove - if they are less than 0.01m³ and 0.05m² respectively your stove will be exempt from BS 8511 anyway!

 

Just a few thoughts!

 

Richard

[W+T]

Well i wasnt expecting all the good remarks, thanks guys, i have read a little about the BSS and BS standards, not much though but i will look into it more when its done, if i cant use it on my cruiser i can use it in my workshop. Good info there you gave aswell, thanks.

 

Ok as it is at the minute what else do you suggest i do to it, i was thinking of some vetns at the top sides ( 4 six mm holes ) there is going to a adjustble damper on the front as you can see in chalk.

I wanted to fit a top flue but i want a hot plate (brass or copper, cost dependent) of about 4inch/100mm to boil a kettle on top, i dont think there will be room for both as the top is 300mm/12inch x 200mm8inch.

I was going to have an oven but it is to small, would of been nice, maybe next time.

 

So is there anything important i have missed out.

 

For testing i am thinking of sitting it on a sheet of chipboard and some near the sides and see how it goes, but as suggested i will check with the BSS/BS standards and do it to there settings.

Thanks Richard .

 

On the BS, the grate size measurments for the cubic cm, do i need to take the area the fire brick takes up?

 

wayne

Edited March 1, 2010 by W+T

[Guest wanted]

I looks fantastic, I reckon a bloke with you expertise could easily weld a couple of Morso logo's in the right place's, they'd never know!

 

post more photo's soon eh?

 

 

edited for spelling

Edited March 1, 2010 by wanted

[W+T]

I looks fantastic, I reckon a bloke with you expertise could easily weld a couple of Morso logo's in the right place's, they'd never know!

 

post more photo's soon eh?

 

 

edited for spelling

 

 

LOL, i have been looking for something a bit more decorative to put on, no luck though.

[rjasmith]

On the BS, the grate size measurments for the cubic cm, do i need to take the area the fire brick takes up?

 

wayne

 

(snipped)

 

BS 8511 lets the reader interpret how they should measure the vol/area. (I do like it when a spec leaves things imprecise!!!)

 

I would take it to mean that you measure with all the usual bits that are supposed to be in there, in place. So I would measure yours with firebricks in place. 0.01m³ and 0.05m² are a bit difficult to visualise (well for me anyway). They work out as a cube approx 8.5" x 8.5" x 8.5" and an area approx 9" x 9" (or variations on those themes).

 

Surprisingly big really and I suspect many small stoves will end up being exempt. that's not to say there isn't some good guidance in BS 8511 though.

 

Richard

[PhilR]

Wayne

 

Your stove looks excellent - well done. In order to comply with the BSS, and for your own safety, have you considered how you will fix it down to the hearth? It should be an easy job for someone with your talents to weld a plate to the bottom of each leg.

 

Phil

[W+T]

(snipped)

 

BS 8511 lets the reader interpret how they should measure the vol/area. (I do like it when a spec leaves things imprecise!!!)

 

I would take it to mean that you measure with all the usual bits that are supposed to be in there, in place. So I would measure yours with firebricks in place. 0.01m³ and 0.05m² are a bit difficult to visualise (well for me anyway). They work out as a cube approx 8.5" x 8.5" x 8.5" and an area approx 9" x 9" (or variations on those themes).

 

Surprisingly big really and I suspect many small stoves will end up being exempt. that's not to say there isn't some good guidance in BS 8511 though.

 

Richard

 

 

MMMM, this measures 11" high x 11" wide x 7" deep but without fire bricks, so with fire bricks, 11 h x 10 w x 6 d, but thats just 6 1/2 inch up as thats how high the brick is. Doesnt look like it will get away with it, i hate maths, i will work it out tonight when i get in, just skivin at the miunte so better dash..

 

 

 

Oh and Phil, thanks mate and yes i have some plate to cut up to make some feet to bolt down to a tiled and back hearth.

 

Quick one, whats the board called that you line the area with...is it rock board?

 

wayne

[mayalld]

MMMM, this measures 11" high x 11" wide x 7" deep but without fire bricks, so with fire bricks, 11 h x 10 w x 6 d, but thats just 6 1/2 inch up as thats how high the brick is. Doesnt look like it will get away with it, i hate maths, i will work it out tonight when i get in, just skivin at the miunte so better dash..

 

OK, grate area;

 

10" = .254m

6" = .1524m

 

so the grate area is 0.254 x 0.1524 = 0.0387m²

No problem there!

 

For the volume, we need to consider it as 2 volumes added together;

 

lined section 6" deep x 10" wide x 6.5" high

0.1524 x 0.254 x 0.1651 = 0.006391 m³

 

unlined section 7" deep x 11" wide x 4.5" high

0.1788 x 0.2794 x 0.1143 = 0.005710 m³

 

Total volume is 0.0121 m³

 

So, it fails on total volume

[W+T]

OK, grate area;

 

10" = .254m

6" = .1524m

 

so the grate area is 0.254 x 0.1524 = 0.0387m²

No problem there!

 

For the volume, we need to consider it as 2 volumes added together;

 

lined section 6" deep x 10" wide x 6.5" high

0.1524 x 0.254 x 0.1651 = 0.006391 m³

 

unlined section 7" deep x 11" wide x 4.5" high

0.1788 x 0.2794 x 0.1143 = 0.005710 m³

 

Total volume is 0.0121 m³

 

 

 

So, it fails on total volume

 

 

Thanks for that Richard was about to try and work it out.

Well thats peed on my chips, i could make the brick double the height, should do the job.

Edited March 2, 2010 by W+T

[colin stone]

Looks a bit like a Charnwood Cove 1 !!

[W+T]

Gettting there, got the door near made, just need a set of new glass frame bolts and hinges, not sure on what type of catch yet to do.

 

As you can see i got the ceramic sealing rope for the door and made a recess for it to sit in, will be glued inplace when all is done.

 

 

The front frame holds the glass inplace woth 4 allen bolts, the glass is set in U channel to keep snug. You cant see it in the pics, well for the pics i didnt fit it as its a bit fiddly to do.

 

 

I will get on with the hinges tomorro, that will be that untill next week as weekends are for fitting my boat out.

[soldthehouse]

Gettting there, got the door near made, just need a set of new glass frame bolts and hinges, not sure on what type of catch yet to do.

 

As you can see i got the ceramic sealing rope for the door and made a recess for it to sit in, will be glued inplace when all is done.

 

 

The front frame holds the glass inplace woth 4 allen bolts, the glass is set in U channel to keep snug. You cant see it in the pics, well for the pics i didnt fit it as its a bit fiddly to do.

 

 

I will get on with the hinges tomorro, that will be that untill next week as weekends are for fitting my boat out.

Glued in place are you sure...

[casper ghost]

Glued in place are you sure...

 

I'm sure he is, the rope is always glued in.

[W+T]

You need to use a high heat resistent glue, most stove shops sell it, just stops it falling out.

[soldthehouse]

You need to use a high heat resistent glue, most stove shops sell it, just stops it falling out.

You live and learn

[Guest wanted]

lookin good, keep us posted