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Everything posted by stuart

  1. Thanks for the info, looks like a similar replacement device for the AD7280A is the LTC6803-3. Just double the cost and out of stock everywhere!
  2. Sure, I'd be interested in a PDF schema. Thanks.
  3. Thanks for that. Are you only using 4x cells for a 12V style setup? As luck would have it, I'm also part of a project for a pick and place machine 🙂 https://indexmachines.io/
  4. Heres the PDF of the schematic - https://github.com/stuartpittaway/diyBMS-CurrentShunt/blob/master/CurrentShuntCircuit/export/Schematic.pdf I've spent thousands with JLCPCB this year already ! @nicknorman forgot to ask, what was the cell monitoring chip you used? I'd be interested to use that in my next designs.
  5. Yep, thats what I did - RS485/MODBUS based Current Monitor, with electrically isolated data connection. https://github.com/stuartpittaway/diyBMS-CurrentShunt
  6. Good idea, might try that with an acrylic sheet to bolt everything to.
  7. I agree custom chips are the best way for that. I used the INA228 in my current shunt/monitor and that been super accurate (20bit ADC) When monitoring cells, a lot of people have multiple parallel banks, so that's what the 256 monitors allows for, like 5x16 etc.
  8. Ah, but that's cheating!! 🤣 I wanted the flexibility of a unknown number of cells to monitor, my solution can monitor up to 256 cells and provide about 1amp balance current for each.
  9. I use an external 1.25V reference for measuring via the Atmel chip. I'm using attiny devices and the internal reference wasn't good enough.
  10. Take a look at software antialias filters, or over sampling. You can increase the effective resolution without changes in hardware.
  11. Thanks @Jen-in-Wellies it is a greaseless gland. From the comments above, I think a "normal" float style switch is going to be the best option - I'd hoped that the electronic/no moving parts would have been a better option by now, but alas! Next question - mounting the thing, previous float switch (from boat builder 15 years ago) was mounted on a flat steel plate and thrown into the bilge - this eventually rusted, broke up and clogged up the pump! Any other ideas for fixing both the pump and float switch?
  12. Ok, so once the sensor is cleaned up it works normally? That's why I liked the look of the water witch, as it doesn't trigger on oil or fuel, just water. However not rain water!!
  13. The power usage is tiny, 0.003A on the water witch I mentioned. I've got solar so that would easily cover that. Agreed, I just find over a period of years they jam up with dirt and become unreliable. Does it eventually stop or permanently damage the unit?
  14. I'd like to add an automatic switch to my bilge pump. Not keen on manual float switches as they do seem to get stuck over time. I've a Cruiser stern which generally has a dry bilge but if the rain channels block, rain water can enter the bilge. Had about 6" of water in the bilge after about 6 weeks - this isn't normally the case though, looks like build up of mud had blocked the drain. Any recommendations, for electronic style switches? I looked at the water witch one but that has a warning about rain water not being sensitive to the device.
  15. Thats good to know. How thick was the Caldwells tape in the end?
  16. Hi @andybarrett1 how did you get on with the window sealing? I also need to do this. The windows were originally fixed using foam tape which failed after a few years. I replaced with butyl tape, which eventually dried up (a few years later) and cracked! As I've a lot of boat painting to do and need to remove the windows a couple of times, I'm thinking of going back to a tape. Perhaps an EPDM tape like this one. https://www.toolstation.com/stormguard-epdm-weatherstrip-p-profile/p23386
  17. Nice to see something done properly for a change! Embedded micros can rarely cope with high network usage or code written defensively
  18. I like the ingenuity, but would advise against any port forwarding especially to low CPU power potentially "hackable" devices. This device is likely to be receiving thousands of "scans" Could the BMS not push the data to the cloud server instead ?
  19. In between forum posts, I managed to slip a disc in my back so only just got to replace the rubber bushing. My initial impression is that it should work okay, the mini rubber bushings are a little softer than the original parts, but similar size and shape.
  20. Looking at the brochure, the rubbers are about the same size as the washer - thats 33.7mm in my case, so the rubber is likely 32mm. Interestingly, they also appear smooth, without the "top hat" so I think this may just be a side effect/moulding of them being crushed against the bearing!
  21. Thanks Tony. The original parts quote "P30-R: silent rubber blocks should be compressed to 13 mm."
  22. On second thoughts, https://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W31487 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 1981-1991 - LAND CRUISER 60 SERIES HJ TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 1980-1990 - LAND CRUISER 60 SERIES FJ TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 1985-2000 - LAND CRUISER 70 SERIES Appears to be a good match. Bush Type Bush Qty OD A ID B L C FL D FLOD E C/Tube QTY C/Tube Size Similar Bushing Size 7 4 37.5 mm 9.5 mm 16 mm 2.5 mm 14 mm click here
  23. Looks like the mini part is too small, the outside diameter at 32.8m is smaller than the washers on the Pythondrive @ 34mm. The "top hat" is also 18mm vs 14mm. I might give it a go anyway and see what happens! These are the dimensions I got from this site https://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=W81156&sq=280666
  24. For anyone who's shopping online to find heater hose, I found https://www.autosiliconehoses.com/rubber-hose-radiator-heater-epdm-automotive-hoses-black.html to be the most competitive priced, and free delivery if you spend over £40.
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