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If you're really lucky they'll fix it.

If you're just lucky they'll tell you it's buggered and point you in the direction of their sister company selling refurbished gearboxes.

If you're unlucky they'll tell you the engine is buggered, and sell you a rebuilt engine they've just dug out a hedge. 

Do you know where its leaking from, is it a seal.or the casing itself?

 

Kind regards

 

Dan 

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Can you identify the box maker and model. The smaller and modern PRM hydraulics like the Delta are well known for leaking from the control spindle. Changing the seal is a DIY job for someone who is practical.t

 

Can't advise until we have a photo of the box or the make & model.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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That’s the same as mine. Delta 20

I had a leak a few years back ago and it turned out to be the seal on the selector.


How much oil you leaking?

Shouldn't go bang, but will stop working temporarily til you top up with oil.

Not advising you to run it much before fixing but you should be ok til you get somewhere to fix it if RCR won’t come out.

 


The selector lever is the easiest to fix, so fingers crossed 🤞 

 

 

ETA obviously if it’s an extreme oil leak I’d be careful about using it, but if it’s a gentle ‘weeping’ of oil and you’re loosing little over time then you should be ok to use it to get ‘home’. 

 

Edited by Goliath
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27 minutes ago, stagedamager said:

If you're really lucky they'll fix it.

If you're just lucky they'll tell you it's buggered and point you in the direction of their sister company selling refurbished gearboxes.

If you're unlucky they'll tell you the engine is buggered, and sell you a rebuilt engine they've just dug out a hedge. 

Do you know where its leaking from, is it a seal.or the casing itself?

 

Kind regards

 

Dan 

Refurbished is a strong term…how about poorly repainted?  

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I think RCR are highly likely to start the engine and put the boat in gear, and if the propeller turns they'll declare it isn't a breakdown so you don't need rescuing and to get on your way.

 

It can be a fine line between attending a genuine breakdown and some routine, non-urgent regular maintenance being required resulting from normal usage. Fixing a slow oil leak falls firmly into the second category, in my opinion. 

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Per their book, cover is against cost of a "failure of a specified part and labour following sudden and unforseen breakdown as long as the part is accessible ". It's not covered if it's wear and tear but not a complete failure.

It's a bit ambiguous. I had a massive oil leak which needed an engine rebuild which they didn't pay for and two gearbox failures which they did, but they were both complete failures.

I'd call them out. At least you get an engineer to have a look, and if it doesn't come under RCR and he seems competent you've got someone to fix it privately.

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If you put a container under the gearbox to catch the leaking oil presumably you can then pour it back in with a funnel in the filler. Or just keep adding new oil. 

 

I did hundreds of hours like this with a leaking PRM 160. It didn't leak a lot to be fair, just a small drip from output shaft seal. Just checked regularly and topped up. Never had any problems. 

 

Definitely don't let them swap the gearbox ! 

 

 

 

Edited by magnetman
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1 hour ago, Feeby100 said:

So to get the box out I Disconnect the Oul pipes and linkage and coupling on shaft and it should come out ?

 

That rather depends upon if the OP can push the shaft coupling back far enough for the input shaft to clear the drive plate or has a twin element flexible coupling that can drop the shaft coupling out of the way. If not he may have to jack the back of the engine up. But in any case I don't think the leak has been identified and if it is the selector shaft seal the box can stay in place.

1 minute ago, Feeby100 said:

?

 

Comment on some of the tails we have been told about RCR "engineers", was meant to be funny.

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1 minute ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

That rather depends upon if the OP can push the shaft coupling back far enough for the input shaft to clear the drive plate or has a twin element flexible coupling that can drop the shaft coupling out of the way. If not he may have to jack the back of the engine up. But in any case I don't think the leak has been identified and if it is the selector shaft seal the box can stay in place.

Ok I try take pic when back to boat and post thank you for you help 

 

I cannot see the leak on top anywhere so not sure it can be the selector ?

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5 minutes ago, Feeby100 said:

Ok I try take pic when back to boat and post thank you for you help 

 

 

My post was a warning that the advice on how to remove the gearbox is not applicable in all cases and in some it is more difficult than that,  especially if the gland packing has worn a groove in the shaft so it won't push back.

 

If you have at least four to six inches between the coupling and gland and put the tiller hard over there is every chance it will work as described but that is not always the case.

Edited by Tony Brooks
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If there's oil underneath the selector shaft that's likely the leak. It's an easy fix in-situ but get the correct o-ring. I recall there's a post on here from five or six years ago on how to get the o-ring out easily - if my memory is correct after disconnecting everything from the selector you turn the engine over and the shaft and o-ring pop out.

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3 hours ago, Feeby100 said:

So to get the box out I Disconnect the Oul pipes and linkage and coupling on shaft and it should come out ?

What engine you got?

Because my delta 20 is bolted on from the inside to the bell housing, on my BMC 1800.  That means the bell housing must come off. 
 

But this is why people ask what engine it is you have, and for photos. 
I don’t believe there is such thing as a standard set up on a boat.  
 

Only take the box off as a last resort, I would cancel out the selector first. Sounds like that’s where the leak is from. 
If there’s no rush, don’t rush. Think it through 👍

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2 hours ago, Feeby100 said:

Yes it does

Check the drain plug, its the only place it can leak when not running unless it is overfull or its the output seal. Very unlikely that the vertical joint between the 2 halves will leak.

The output seal can be replaced in situ once the rear flange is off. No need to remove the box. Its a tricky box to remove as the bell housing /flywheel cover is part of he gearbox on the Delta 20.

I have seen one long ago where the flywheel housing bit had fractured through the bearing counterbores. We welded it up and hand scraped the bores to fit new bearings. 

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