RollingFoggy Posted April 13, 2022 Report Share Posted April 13, 2022 Good afternoon all, I hope we are all well and in good health. A quick question, I need to replace the woodwork on one of my hatches, it wood appear that the woodwork is actually MDF, and as you wood expect, utterly shite at keeping damp out. Its blown with the moisture and is in need of replacing. My quick question is how wood it be attached to the steel doors ? This is before I rip it off and then realise I have no way of bolting it shut again. I'll be replacing it with actual wood, varnished and sealed from moisture. Any help, advice very much appreciated. Apologies for the excessive use of wood in the wrong context, however it amuses me so tough. Cheers all. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted April 13, 2022 Report Share Posted April 13, 2022 Possibly glued to the inside of the steel door, or maybe screwed through from the outside with countersunk screws which have been filled and painted over. If you pull the old lining off you will find out! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted April 13, 2022 Report Share Posted April 13, 2022 (edited) If you want to bond the new wooden linings on rather than using screws then use a good polyurethane adhesive/sealant. Sikaflex does a rather confusing range and then there is Marineflex, Stixall, CT-5, etc. Once you've got all the old MDF off and have a good steel surface, key both surfaces and clean with a bit of white spirit, then stick on the new wood. You might need to clamp it into place for 24 hours, but generally large surface areas will have good instant grab and won't move. Depends on the thickness and weight of the wood. Edited April 13, 2022 by blackrose 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PD1964 Posted April 13, 2022 Report Share Posted April 13, 2022 Just as above, I wouldn’t use countersunk screws from the outside, as you would have to drill, prep, fill and repaint, if not done right over time these will show up. If you look at boats that have done it this way on hatches and doors, you can often see the round screw head recesses through the paint. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RollingFoggy Posted April 14, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 14, 2022 Thanks for the help/ advice. So basically , make some nice new ones up, then rip out the old and glue in the new. Cheers. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stroudwater1 Posted April 14, 2022 Report Share Posted April 14, 2022 33 minutes ago, RollingFoggy said: Thanks for the help/ advice. So basically , make some nice new ones up, then rip out the old and glue in the new. Cheers. What wood will you plan to use? I’m wondering if the weight of hardwood could be pretty heavy for the door hinges perhaps? Modern pine is often rubbish with insufficient sap/ resin to help as a preservative and often seems to rot very easily in spite of good prep. Western red cedar would perhaps do well but is costly. Despite its cost good marine ply maybe a thought? Has it always been the cost it is now, or is it a pandemic phenomenon? ☹️ You can get it cut the right size for cheaper. Some of our doors marine ply have lost its paint on the edges but hasn’t blown at all and will repaint just fine. (25 years old) if the old ones were screwed through that’s not such fun to deal with, possibly grind them off (but would that disturb the filler on the outside from heat)or counter drill holes into the new wood where they are? If they are MDF it seems more likely they would have been fixed with some adhesive? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bee Posted April 14, 2022 Report Share Posted April 14, 2022 The difficult bit is the edges of the wood. ordinary exterior ply is fine but it needs edging with hardwood if it is exposed to damp, if it is overlapped by the steel then thats sort of OK but raw edges if endgrain or ply are vulnerable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slim Posted April 14, 2022 Report Share Posted April 14, 2022 What is the design of the doors? All the advice so far has assumed that the doors are flat steel plate. Mine, and ì'm sure many others aren't. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrose Posted April 14, 2022 Report Share Posted April 14, 2022 My advice made no assumption that the doors were flat plate. The same advice is relevant for rebated hatch doors with steel sides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchcrawler Posted April 14, 2022 Report Share Posted April 14, 2022 5 hours ago, blackrose said: My advice made no assumption that the doors were flat plate. The same advice is relevant for rebated hatch doors with steel sides. Same as mine, steel with a 18mm lip all the way round Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeC Posted April 15, 2022 Report Share Posted April 15, 2022 (edited) Take a look here at this YouTube video as this person had same issue. Even if it is not your answer it may give you some tips. Edited April 15, 2022 by JoeC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slow and Steady Posted April 15, 2022 Report Share Posted April 15, 2022 (edited) ^ Excellent example of how not to do it if you want it to last. e.g. Fit boards before painting. Primer is no use as a waterproof sealer. Cheap ply won't last unless it has been properly sealed. Primer will not stop that rust. Random glue will stick it but a continuous bead around the perimeter would have helped keeping the damp from getting around to the back. What it is a good example of is tarting something up for the short term/doing the least possible and hoping for the best against all common sense. When I did my rear doors (same construction) they got about 20 coats of varnish around the edges after filling any voids in the ply and 10 coats front and back. Edited April 15, 2022 by Slow and Steady Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg & Jax Posted April 17, 2022 Report Share Posted April 17, 2022 (edited) Hi guys . I've just replaced my hatch doors and frame . I've used ct1 to stick the doors to the steel its worked a treat . Edited April 17, 2022 by Greg & Jax Picc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffling Posted April 17, 2022 Report Share Posted April 17, 2022 24 minutes ago, Greg & Jax said: Hi guys . I've just replaced my hatch doors and frame . I've used ct1 to stick the doors to the steel its worked a treat . Looks terrific. What sort of wood are we looking at and did it need any prep on the reverse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg & Jax Posted April 17, 2022 Report Share Posted April 17, 2022 (edited) Hi puffling . This is American white oak with a dark oak stain on it varnished all over and glued using ct1 . Sealed all round and as of yet 3 coats of varnish. I do intend a few more coats of varnish . At the moment most available oak is American white oak . These did replace English oak one,s that had split as they where only 10mm thick and water had got behind them . Edited April 17, 2022 by Greg & Jax Spelling Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Puffling Posted April 18, 2022 Report Share Posted April 18, 2022 10 hours ago, Greg & Jax said: Hi puffling . This is American white oak with a dark oak stain on it varnished all over and glued using ct1 . Sealed all round and as of yet 3 coats of varnish. I do intend a few more coats of varnish . At the moment most available oak is American white oak . These did replace English oak one,s that had split as they where only 10mm thick and water had got behind them . Thanks for the information. I need to do my hatches soon and had more or less settled on using painted plywood, mainly due to the availability of solid hardwoods. Have to admit that the solid oak you've used gives a much better appearance of quality and depth. I'll see what the woodyards have; that American white oak seems a good solution. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted April 18, 2022 Report Share Posted April 18, 2022 49 minutes ago, Puffling said: Thanks for the information. I need to do my hatches soon and had more or less settled on using painted plywood, mainly due to the availability of solid hardwoods. Have to admit that the solid oak you've used gives a much better appearance of quality and depth. I'll see what the woodyards have; that American white oak seems a good solution. Oak supplier I have used a few times: https://www.britishhardwoods.co.uk/ 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg & Jax Posted April 18, 2022 Report Share Posted April 18, 2022 I've recently done a bit of a refurbishment of the interior and removed all the cheap oak ( mdf ) architrave and moulding and replaced with the American oak .most of the oak came from a supplier in Leeds and the rest from Atlantic timber. The oak has become expensive recently I'm glad I'm nearly finished . 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RollingFoggy Posted April 18, 2022 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2022 24 minutes ago, Greg & Jax said: I've recently done a bit of a refurbishment of the interior and removed all the cheap oak ( mdf ) architrave and moulding and replaced with the American oak .most of the oak came from a supplier in Leeds and the rest from Atlantic timber. The oak has become expensive recently I'm glad I'm nearly finished . Thank you for your advice, it looks like you've done a really good job there, thanks for posting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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