Paint stripper that actually works?

[David Mack]

Not for the boat in this case, but I have just removed several layers of paint from a Victorian pine door at home, using a hot air gun and scapers. I would now like to remove the remaining traces of paint residue from the wood grain and the less accessible bits of the mouldings, getting the wood sufficiently clean it can be varnished, rather than just repainted.

Years ago this was a straightforward, if laborious task using proper Nitomors (with methylene chloride?) and wire wool while wearing rubber gloves, because the stuff would sting on bare flesh. But my recent experience of paint strippers is that the products currently on sale won't touch the skin of a rice pudding.

Anyone got any suggestions for something that works?

[TheBiscuits]

 

Get it dipped commercially.  I'd be very surprised if there isn't one or more firms near you.

[BEngo]

Sodium hydroxide is effective on alkyd paints.  There are drain cleaners based on it if you cannot find the pellets to dissolve.  You need to wash down with water and then distilled vinegar after use.

 

If the paint is Victorian  or even pre 1980 ish take precautions against ingesting the lead it likely contains.

 

N

 

[Sir Nibble]

Put "Paramose" into eBay search.

The good thing about modern paint stripper is economy. You can refill the empty tin from the tap and no-one can tell the difference.

[David Mack]

7 minutes ago, TheBiscuits said:

 

Get it dipped commercially.  I'd be very surprised if there isn't one or more firms near you.

I've yet to find a dipping company that can leave the lovely painted graining on the other side of the door untouched.

[TheBiscuits]

1 minute ago, David Mack said:

I've yet to find a dipping company that can leave the lovely painted graining on the other side of the door untouched.

 

Pick one with a very shallow tank! 

 

More sensibly I think there's a place on the wharf at Sowerby that do hand restoration of antiques.  You could ask them what they recommend.

 

[Tracy D'arth]

Dipping constructed joinery will cause it to fall apart, all glue is ruined. But it is then easier to reassemble it . Often it is better to disassemble the piece at the outset.

 

Drain cleaner does work but is seriously dangerous to use. You can make a gelatinous stripper with drain cleaner and wallpaper past.

 

Multiple applications of the modern health & safety imposed rubbish will eventually work.

[Sir Nibble]

9 minutes ago, Tracy D'arth said:

 

 

Multiple applications of the modern health & safety imposed rubbish will eventually work.

I've only tried a couple of dozen applications over several days, I don't have time to wait for eventually.

[dmr]

Living on a boat I thought all this stuff was behind me, but now the children are restoring a Victorian house and expect me to help.

 

I always found it almost impossible to get all the bits of paint out of moulding corners etc, but a bit of paint remnant can be quite attractive if one is going for a "restored old door" look rather than an "as original" appearance. Oldness is part of the Victorian appeal for me. I had some doors done by a commercial dipper and it did them no good at all, they ended up looking like pretty wrecked modern doors.

 

As you are into old boats why not just paint them in cream undercoat and do a scumble grain ? ?

 

..............Dave

[Tracy D'arth]

These old pine panelled doors were always intended to be painted, they have knots, warts, pieces let in and filler from new. If you want pristine varnishable wood doors, buy new.

If you want bleached, cracked, cocked up with holes for old locks and handles, loose panels and opened joints;  doors then strip the old ones. Personally I think they look awful even when finished.

[Detling]

1 hour ago, Tracy D'arth said:

These old pine panelled doors were always intended to be painted, they have knots, warts, pieces let in and filler from new. If you want pristine varnishable wood doors, buy new.

If you want bleached, cracked, cocked up with holes for old locks and handles, loose panels and opened joints;  doors then strip the old ones. Personally I think they look awful even when finished.

Exactly, if they were intended to be varnished they would be mahogany or walnut. Occasionally teakp but mainly mahogany.  One thing I love about our old doors is the hall side of the door to the kitchen, and scullery has nice mouldings etc on the posh hall side and no mouldings on the other, also the posh rooms have rebated door latches and locks on the servants rooms that are all surface mount.I same upstairs on the doors to the servants bedrooms. Interestingly it would also seem that the owner and his lady never went to the toilet as that is in the servants area and cheap thinner doors, the new facilities are better placed. 

[Mike Tee]

13 hours ago, Detling said:

Exactly, if they were intended to be varnished they would be mahogany or walnut. Occasionally teakp but mainly mahogany.  One thing I love about our old doors is the hall side of the door to the kitchen, and scullery has nice mouldings etc on the posh hall side and no mouldings on the other, also the posh rooms have rebated door latches and locks on the servants rooms that are all surface mount.I same upstairs on the doors to the servants bedrooms. Interestingly it would also seem that the owner and his lady never went to the toilet as that is in the servants area and cheap thinner doors, the new facilities are better placed. 

Exactly - the Queen has been on the throne for almost 70 years and according to rumour hasn't 'been' yet. Mind you, after all that time, I don't want to be around when she does!

[Manxcat]

To reply to the OP's question;

 

At work we use Starchem Synstryp, (with suitable PPE)

It takes most paints off.

It is only sold for "Professional Use Only"...

 

 

(I presume you have a profession ?)

[dave moore]

I’ve used it too....it actually works, unlike the average stuff available which wouldn’t pull the skin off a rice pudding!

 

[Slim]

1 hour ago, Manxcat said:

To reply to the OP's question;

 

At work we use Starchem Synstryp, (with suitable PPE)

It takes most paints off.

It is only sold for "Professional Use Only"...

 

 

(I presume you have a profession ?)

 

52 minutes ago, dave moore said:

I’ve used it too....it actually works, unlike the average stuff available which wouldn’t pull the skin off a rice pudding!

 

I've also used it. I got it off e bay a few years ago.

 

Of course I'm a 'professional' Seriously, I used gloves, safety glasses etc. Mind you, I didn't know it was called PPE I thought it was just common sense.

Edited March 18, 2021 by Slim

[MrsM]

Old Nitromors contained dichloromethane (DCM). This was banned from sale to the general public in 2012 (as I recall). It is still available in paint stripper for use by a professional or within an industrial setting (eg workshop). As a property restorer I had to register with the HSE and prove my competence in order to get a certificate to enable me to buy it. I generally use Langlow Strip Away Pro and it really works, but is nasty stuff. I buy it from my local motor factors supplier. I have seen DCM stripper available for sale at autojumbles but this is not permitted and I believe the sellers are at risk of committing an offense. I expect most/all furniture restorers and perhaps some decorators will be certified to use DCM. 

Edited March 18, 2021 by MrsM
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