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Lino / Vinyl flooring


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I'm weighing up flooring options at the moment.

Forecabin (sleeping area)  has a hexagrip floor, 6'x8' boards running lengthwise in the centre, 16" wide boards either side which are removable for inspection of the bilge. 

I'm thinking of vinyl sheet, which would be floating, not glued down (possibly stapled around the edges. 

Should be durable and easily maintained, I reckon.

 

Anybody have any experience of vinyl or even lino?

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I'm thinking replacing my carpet tiles with those woodgrain vinyl planks you can get from B&Q as my subfloor is uneven and I think they'd cope with that better than real wood. Also they wouldn't be as cold underfoot as I'd lay them over 12mm celotex and 6mm ply. But they can't be laid floating, they have to be stuck down. I have a few inspection hatches on one side of the boat so I suppose in those areas the celotex and ply could float and the vinyl planks could be stuck onto that.

Edited by blackrose
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4 minutes ago, MoominPapa said:

We have (proper) linseed lino on the kitchen and bathroom, glued down to ply floors. 

 

Glued down, it's great, but I imagine it would be rather fragile if not so installed.

 

MP.

 

We have the same - renewed a couple of years ago. Fitted carpet on Cloud 9 underlay in the lounge and bedroom.

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Just now, blackrose said:

Is that an advantage in itself or does it just give one a feel-good effect?

Haven't read of anything - in fact, I think there's maintenance involved with lino (which might just be a wipe of Linseed oil)

 

 

20 minutes ago, MoominPapa said:

We have (proper) linseed lino on the kitchen and bathroom, glued down to ply floors. 

 

Glued down, it's great, but I imagine it would be rather fragile if not so installed.

 

MP.

 

You mean it doesn't take well to flexing?

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2 hours ago, blackrose said:

I'm thinking replacing my carpet tiles with those woodgrain vinyl planks you can get from B&Q as my subfloor is uneven and I think they'd cope with that better than real wood. Also they wouldn't be as cold underfoot as I'd lay them over 12mm celotex and 6mm ply. But they can't be laid floating, they have to be stuck down. I have a few inspection hatches on one side of the boat so I suppose in those areas the celotex and ply could float and the vinyl planks could be stuck onto that.

I wouldn't . Half my boat has woodgrain vinyl 'planks' and half 18mm solid oak flooring. The oak has stood up to thew wear and tear of grit etc well. The vinyl badly. The imitation wood graining has worn through exposing the white vinyl underneth. Also over time the adhesive fails and edges lift. Dirt/ grip then gets stuck to the adhesive residue and re-sticking the tiles properly impossible. I would love to replace the vinyl with wood but there isn't enough clearance under work surfaces for fridge, freezer, washing machine etc .T & g solid wood is the way to go , expensive , time consuming but a proper job.

Edited by Slim
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9 minutes ago, Slim said:

I wouldn't . Half my boat has woodgrain vinyl 'planks' and half 18mm solid oak flooring. The oak has stood up to thew wear and tear of grit etc well. The vinyl badly. The imitation wood graining has worn through exposing the white vinyl undernieth. Also over time the adhesive fails and edges lift. Dirt/ grip then gets stuck to the adhesive residue and re-sticking the tiles properly impossible. I would love to replace the vinyl with wood but there isn't enough clearance under work surfaces for fridge, freezer, washing machine etc .T & g solid wood is the way to go , expensive , time consuming but a proper job.

@blackrose - that seems to be one advantage of lino over vinyl: durability

 

@Slim - thanks for the tip-off

Edited by Sir Percy
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1 hour ago, blackrose said:

What's the advantage of linseed lino over PVC lino?

Rather more durable. Subjectively better aethetics.

 

MP.

1 hour ago, Sir Percy said:

 

You mean it doesn't take well to flexing?

It doesn't like flexing at all and will crack if bent too far.

 

Installing it around complex shapes in a nightmare, as it tends to tear at internal corners which act a stress-raisers.

 

MP.

 

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42 minutes ago, MoominPapa said:

 

It doesn't like flexing at all and will crack if bent too far.

 

Installing it around complex shapes in a nightmare, as it tends to tear at internal corners which act a stress-raisers.

 

MP.

 

I see, thanks

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13 hours ago, blackrose said:

I'm thinking replacing my carpet tiles with those woodgrain vinyl planks you can get from B&Q as my subfloor is uneven and I think they'd cope with that better than real wood. Also they wouldn't be as cold underfoot as I'd lay them over 12mm celotex and 6mm ply. But they can't be laid floating, they have to be stuck down. I have a few inspection hatches on one side of the boat so I suppose in those areas the celotex and ply could float and the vinyl planks could be stuck onto that.

Where did you get the idea that they have to be stuck down. Karndean di a range called looselay which you do not glue down. I have them installed in my boat and have been down 4 to 5 years now. Never had a problem. If you do a search on karndean on this site there are some photos of them.

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19 hours ago, blackrose said:

I'm thinking replacing my carpet tiles with those woodgrain vinyl planks you can get from B&Q as my subfloor is uneven and I think they'd cope with that better than real wood. Also they wouldn't be as cold underfoot as I'd lay them over 12mm celotex and 6mm ply. But they can't be laid floating, they have to be stuck down.

I've done 3 bathrooms in vinyl plank flooring, the most recent being last Friday. The instructions specifically say that they should be free floating with a 5-10mm expansion gap around the edges, depending on length of run. You may find an alternative, glue-free source if you look elsewhere than B&Q.  As Tonka says above, Karndean may be such an option.

 

However, this info may be more use to others as I think uneven sub floor issues are likely to show through.

Edited by Sea Dog
Karndean
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17 hours ago, Slim said:

I wouldn't . Half my boat has woodgrain vinyl 'planks' and half 18mm solid oak flooring. The oak has stood up to thew wear and tear of grit etc well. The vinyl badly. The imitation wood graining has worn through exposing the white vinyl underneth. Also over time the adhesive fails and edges lift. Dirt/ grip then gets stuck to the adhesive residue and re-sticking the tiles properly impossible. I would love to replace the vinyl with wood but there isn't enough clearance under work surfaces for fridge, freezer, washing machine etc .T & g solid wood is the way to go , expensive , time consuming but a proper job.

Our experience the opposite. We had solid oak flooring in our kitchen for 9 years but got fed up with the wear marks and the running down and revarnishing. Then had Karndean, the glued down variety. No problems at all, just wipe clean.

 

A warning to those wanting glued down Karndean. They will want to lay a screed first but don't realise that boats tend to slope to the stern and move from side to side!

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1 hour ago, pearley said:

A warning to those wanting glued down Karndean. They will want to lay a screed first but don't realise that boats tend to slope to the stern and move from side to side!

It may look pretty good along the centreline up forward, but that's just the thin end of the wedge!

Edited by Sea Dog
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7 hours ago, Sea Dog said:

I've done 3 bathrooms in vinyl plank flooring, the most recent being last Friday. The instructions specifically say that they should be free floating with a 5-10mm expansion gap around the edges, depending on length of run. You may find an alternative, glue-free source if you look elsewhere than B&Q.  As Tonka says above, Karndean may be such an option.

 

However, this info may be more use to others as I think uneven sub floor issues are likely to show through.

I've used vinyl planking from B&Q at home in the bathroom. It click latches, but should be left floating. At home, I've not put expansion gaps in and it does not seem to have affected it. How uneven is the floor? My plywood bathroom floor was not perfectly flat, maybe 2-3 mm in parts and it has not shown through. I don't know whether there are options, but what I bought last year was not cheap,  about £35 per sq mtr, but the only one that was suitable for damp environments.

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On 21/06/2020 at 22:15, Slim said:

I wouldn't . Half my boat has woodgrain vinyl 'planks' and half 18mm solid oak flooring. The oak has stood up to thew wear and tear of grit etc well. The vinyl badly. The imitation wood graining has worn through exposing the white vinyl underneth. Also over time the adhesive fails and edges lift. Dirt/ grip then gets stuck to the adhesive residue and re-sticking the tiles properly impossible. I would love to replace the vinyl with wood but there isn't enough clearance under work surfaces for fridge, freezer, washing machine etc .T & g solid wood is the way to go , expensive , time consuming but a proper job.

 

Ok thanks, but I take my shoes off when I enter my home anyway so there would be no grit and no wear. I lived in Asia for many years so it became second nature. For me the English way feels quite dirty, walking into someone's home with one's shoes on, especially on boats when you don't know what you might have been walking in on the towpath (dog shite, etc). 

 

Solid wood is nice but far too cold for my floor. It's all about the specific heat capacity of a material which is related to its density.

On 22/06/2020 at 09:56, Tonka said:

Where did you get the idea that they have to be stuck down. Karndean di a range called looselay which you do not glue down. I have them installed in my boat and have been down 4 to 5 years now. Never had a problem. If you do a search on karndean on this site there are some photos of them.

 

I got that idea from the fact that the ones I'd mentioned from B&Q are self adhesive.

Edited by blackrose
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On 22/06/2020 at 23:31, Ex Brummie said:

I've used vinyl planking from B&Q at home in the bathroom. It click latches, but should be left floating. At home, I've not put expansion gaps in and it does not seem to have affected it. How uneven is the floor? My plywood bathroom floor was not perfectly flat, maybe 2-3 mm in parts and it has not shown through. I don't know whether there are options, but what I bought last year was not cheap,  about £35 per sq mtr, but the only one that was suitable for damp environments.

 

If it click latches then possibly you're talking about a different MDF vinyl faced flooring product? I've used the same stuff in my bathroom too. I can't see how the 3mm thick vinyl planks I was originally talking about could click latch but I might be wrong?

Edited by blackrose
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29 minutes ago, blackrose said:

 

Ok thanks, but I take my shoes off when I enter my home anyway so there would be no grit and no wear. I lived in Asia for many years so it became second nature. For me the English way feels quite dirty, walking into someone's home with one's shoes on, especially on boats when you don't know what you might have been walking in on the towpath (dog shite, etc). 

 

 

If I need to get from the tiller to the bows, like, NOW, then I go and any mess is cleared up afterwards 

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48 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

If I need to get from the tiller to the bows, like, NOW, then I go and any mess is cleared up afterwards 

Sure, you're free to do whatever you want on your own boat. If I need to get from the tiller to the bow in a hurry I just walk down the gunwale. That's just as quick for me.

 

I could run though the boat if I want and that wouldn't be a problem. I wouldn't bother talking my shoes off in an emergency if that's what you meant. In all the years I've had this boat I've only had to do it once so it's not really an issue.

Edited by blackrose
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12 hours ago, blackrose said:

 

If it click latches then possibly you're talking about a different MDF vinyl faced flooring product? I've used the same stuff in my bathroom too. I can't see how the 3mm thick vinyl planks I was originally talking about could click latch but I might be wrong?

Not MDF backed, totally vinyl product. There are castellations on each edge that interlock. The consequence of this is that you get more wastage as you have to line them up. A bit like matching pattern on wallpaper.

Its not soft, but I suppose grit could damage it, but the sheet vinyl on my boat has lasted well over 20 years with no significant damage and I would consider this is much more durable.

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I might go for this Karndean looselay product. It's meant to be very hardwearing with a 15 year warranty if used commercially (shops/offices, etc).

 

The only thing is that my subfloor is quite uneven so what's the best way to level it? I can't easily get the floorboards up so is a plane and belt sander the way to go?

 

 

 

 

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