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Sir Percy

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  1. Sorry it's taken so long to get back to you; 1) about a good half an hour to go touch dry / stiff 2) yes, it'll stick, but the trick is to get it to stay in place initially while it cures. Careful, slow, progressive application might get you there.
  2. I wonder if vinyl tape might be an effective solution.
  3. The Soudal foam that you're referring to ('Genius' - isn't that the name of the gun system?) appears to be 'resistant to water', according to their website. Having just used an expanding foam (a different Soudal product), I think that you'll definitely be better off with a gun rather than a tube applicator. You'll likely need to modulate the flow in order to get it to fill the gap and not just shoot down to the bottom of the void. Not sure how you'd tackle the top of the porthole, though. May be tricky.
  4. What licences, insurances, etc. would you need to operate a tug (construction, general towing services) on the inland waterways? Appreciate insight if you've relevant experience, TIA
  5. Okay folks, I'll try a light misting. Cheers
  6. Varnish is the obvious choice, but thinking about maintenance: waxoil might need to be more frequent, but I imagine that it would be easier than varnish, and touch-ups could be done on spots without having to redo the whole surface. Apologies for not mentioning this before: the cladding is going underneath the gunwales where it might pick up scuffs and dings.
  7. Umming and ahhing over what finish to use on internal Larch TGV cladding. Currently thinking I'll use hard wax oil like Osmo Polyx. Water-repellency, stain-resistance, tint, and durability is what I'm after. Also would like a matt/satin finish, not gloss. Good choice, or is varnish/other more suitable?
  8. Ta. What sort of experiments do you have in mind? I bought a kit of 5 cans so may have a little spare. p.s. on the internet, about half the price of similar Soudal kit from Screwstation.
  9. Another way - possibly quieter and cleaner - of constructing this fixing for a light-duty 'floating shelf' could be to make it up from three horizontal sections, 18x45mm / 18x18 / 18x35, screwed and glued. Use a block plane to bevel the 18x45, or make the depth less than 45mm, or, just bring it forward a little to meet the side of the cabin at the desired angle. Then finish at either end with a cap. edit: you could use the shelf in place when clamping the three sections.
  10. Question for anyone who's used expanding foam: I've just bought some cans of Soudal expanding foam (gun grade) for filling in gaps around Celotex slabs fitted for hull insulation. The directions on the can say to spray water on surfaces to help it cure. Not sure that I really want to do that in case excess water gets trapped. Am I worrying about nothing?
  11. Is it wood, or MDF? I'm installing softwood TGV cladding. It'll get paint/stain, and oil/wax both sides.
  12. and is it metal construction? you could try adding sides with drip strips
  13. sliding hatch. runners could be wood on metal, or metal on metal. rubber wouldn't slide. the hatch cover should...cover. sounds like yours doesn't. post a photo? photo of mine: see where the runners go under?
  14. Just a recommendation for a couple of things which I've found handy in fitting slabs of Celotex recently: a double suction pad - good for handling large slabs (esp. if you've a short wingspan), and also for taking out of the space into which you've fitted it, if you've got to rectify a cockup like I did (see previous post re additional battens) a hacksaw handle - extend the blade from the handle and use the free end to cut through the insulation with minimal dust creation.
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