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Sir Percy

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    Sir Percy

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  1. Dries matt. Adhesion is pretty good, does require maintenance with re-application of oil. Nice to work with.
  2. I'd agree with all the comments on TB's TNBB above. Bear in mind that the subtitle is 'The Complete Guide to fitting out a narrowboat' so it depends on what you mean by renovation as to how relevant it is to the work that you're considering. A good read, but I wouldn't describe it as a reference, particularly on discussion of equipment available where it may be outdated. It's not comprehensive (can't check right now as the cat's on my lap, but I'd be willing to bet e.g., that there's no mention of limber holes iirc) and that may be because it's written from his experience of his boat. Not all boats are the same. Maybe there's a book out there written by someone with many years of experience of working on many different boats. Anyway, that's what makes this forum such a great resource.
  3. Yes, I'm asking anyone who has put in thinner insulation behind a storage unit has had problems with a cold spot there. I see examples of storage utg and can't see how there is enough useful space without compromising on insulation.
  4. At any point along the hull, did you cut back on insulation or omit it altogether, to accommodate storage under the gunwale? How did it turn out - a cold spot, or was it mitigated by the dead space of the storage?
  5. Sir Percy

    K

    In this case (from what I know) it was a private sale, seller was iniitially not interested in having it out of the water. Not really blaming the yard. I should have mentioned that this was in London. Maybe another reason to avoid buying in London.
  6. Sir Percy

    K

    Spoke with someone the other week, who'd viewed a boat, liked it enough to arrange getting it out of the water only for the owner selling it to someone prepared to buy without survey. She managed to get half her money back from the yard.
  7. Windy? No, it's Thursday. Me too. Fancy a pint?
  8. I'm doing some battening below the gunwale. I've started off by making use of the angles which are already welded to the hull - drilled holes in the angles and bolted battens to them. Perhaps that approach would mitigate your movement worries? Would need some tabs welded. Wouldn't have thought an epoxy resin would give you the flexibility. Maybe one of the other sealant/adhesives could do the job.
  9. I've got limber holes, not in the engine room bulkhead, but at either end of the angles welded to the baseplate on either side of the keelson in fore and aft cabins. No ballast in the engine room.
  10. Have you considered Perspex/polycarbonate as an alternative? It would be possible to radius the corners yourself.
  11. The chaps could have at least whetted appetites with teasers of forthcoming episodes. A cruise has already been covered by All Aboard! (although I'm not saying 'if you've seen one...'), so maybe they're still working out different ideas for episodes. Maybe some slow TV ideas could be pitched here, like 'filling a water tank', 'fishing out my keys'...?
  12. My suggestion to you, seeing as would be 1) not to look to buy a tool, and 2) not a tool to do both jobs - what you could do is to see if you can borrow a tool from whoever is around at the time to tackle the first job of removal. That could be a cordless drill or angle grinder. Then all you'd need is either a poly abrasive wheel for a drill or disc for a grinder, a mask and goggles, all of which shouldn't break the bank. Same with sanding, although more people seem to have a cordless drill/grinder than a ROS so then you may have to buy. Hmm. Having written the above, I'm wondering now whether your strategy of means a series of prepping and painting small areas over a year or more. If that's the case, hopefully you have neatly-defined sections so that you can avoid a patchy overall result.
  13. In a pinch, and if the pins have 'eyes', you can slip them behind the lining strip threading the rope through the eye and around the bottom of the pin.
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