Jump to content

I need to pay someone to fix my electrics


Featured Posts

20 minutes ago, Boater Sam said:

All those names are already done I'm 'fraid!

 

You must be kidding...!

I've never seen ANY of them out and about on the cut.

Not since about 11am this morning anyway;)

23 minutes ago, Boater Sam said:

Along with SKING, Spending The Kids Inheritance.

 

I don't understand that one. The acronym is STKI.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

update. 

Attached black jump lead to negative battery post and put it on the biggest sticky outest piece of the engine casing,

Carefully put the red jump lead on the starter solenoid pin nearest the starter motor,( NOT THE LIVE FEED IN) 

Touched the positive battery post.

Same result as last night , major sparks at the battery positive pole,

No movement or noises from the starter whatsoever, 

Is it knackered?

Edited by Karen Lea Rainey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

It’s not looking good is it...

i think I’d try taking the starter off I’m assuming that’s relatively easy on a bmc but someone who knows will no doubt comment soon..

once off you can apply the jump leads and see if the motor spins or take it to an auto electrican for testing/rebuilding. A new one might be quite cheap away from ‘Marine’ suppliers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There may be, may be, an inspection band around the rear end of the starter body which covers portals to inspect the brush gear and comutator.  This band will have a screw to secure it, slacken this screw off and the band will slide clear of the portals.  It may have been submerged at some time and needs drying out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, Karen Lea Rainey said:

update. 

Attached black jump lead to negative battery post and put it on the biggest sticky outest piece of the engine casing,

Carefully put the red jump lead on the starter solenoid pin nearest the starter motor,( NOT THE LIVE FEED IN) 

Touched the positive battery post.

Same result as last night , major sparks at the battery positive pole,

No movement or noises from the starter whatsoever, 

Is it knackered?

The sparks and no motor movement tend to counter each other unless there is a hefty short inside the starter motor so I agree it looks bad.

As Biz says there may be an inspection band around the starter but later ones have a cover that pulls off the end once two screws/nuts are undone.  You may be very lucky and find a massive build up of damp brush powder causing a short but I think them motor now has to come off to get decent access so   getting it tested and repaired may be the easiest way forward.

However doing the test you described is not for the faint hearted or you will get enough sparks to scare you. You need to be very positive and determined when you touch the positive battery post.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks to you gents for your knowledge, especially Tony, Bizzard and Boater Sam,

That's it then _ starter motor off, inspection for crud, rust, etc , quick test at home on the floor direct to a spare battery, then off to a 're conditioner,

Nb I have seen a similar starter on ebay for around £140 new, is it worth getting it reconditioned for approx £30 as it may do the same fairly quickly in a damp bilge area. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

9 minutes ago, Karen Lea Rainey said:

Thanks to you gents for your knowledge, especially Tony, Bizzard and Boater Sam,

That's it then _ starter motor off, inspection for crud, rust, etc , quick test at home on the floor direct to a spare battery, then off to a 're conditioner,

Nb I have seen a similar starter on ebay for around £140 new, is it worth getting it reconditioned for approx £30 as it may do the same fairly quickly in a damp bilge area. 

There have been two or three drive end brackets for 1.5s that put the solenoid in different positions. Some hung down below the starter body which is fine for vehicles and access on a ramp but wee an endless cause of problems with bilge water on some boats. I don't know if the 1.8 is the same but if your solenoid hangs under the starter rather than right on top or to the side I would suggest that you investigate if there is a different option.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have only seen the solenoid on top with the 1.8D BMC, but there are 2 different engine back plates, one puts the motor lower than the other. Most  1.8D starter motors are level with the engine mounts, not easy to get at but only 2  long bolts retaining them.

These are very robust common Lucas starters, any reputable reconditioner or auto electrician should have no problem getting spare parts and doing a decent repair/overhaul.

The major players in BMC parts are ASAP and Calcutt. The later 1.8D engines are of Turkish origin but as far as I know all the parts are interchangeable with the British ones.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks , the starter is level with the mounts and I have felt the 2 bolts but only one is visible, the other is directly  underneath, I will need some double jointed wrists and socket sets to get to it.

Asap £200 exchange price, Calcutta nothing on web site from shop,

I think I,'ll  take for refurb!

Edited by Karen Lea Rainey
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi All,

Tried to take the starter motor off today, removed 2 x 15 mm bolts / nuts where it goes through the engine casing,

Problem is there feels like there is an additional  centrering nut at the cable end of the starter,, it feels hexagonal similar to a nut, but i wasnt expecting it,

There is no visible stud on the casing, I wasn't sure whether I needed to prise the starter out of its housing, or hit it with a hammer, but this third nut is fooling me, has anyone got experience of this other nut?

Reminder BMC 1.8 apparently the same as the same as Sherpa vans?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, ditchcrawler said:

If that is a hexagon in the centre of the end, its the end of the starter motor shaft, you can put a spanner on it and turn the shaft if the starter motor jams.

So... does it turn?

If it doesn’t well there’s your problem. 

If you’ve taken off both the fastening bolts it probably now needs a clout with a length of wood and a hammer to release it. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, Sherpa engine.

The terminal end usually had a square end if the shaft sticking out (sometimes with a tin top hat cover over it) for unjamming the motor but I have never seen one secured at that end to anything. If the 2 long 9/16 AF bolts are out, it should come out. Are you sure you have removed the right one underneath, its hard to see?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Definitely took the 2 x approx 6" bolts out both with a 15mm spanner (9/16th), I can feel  the holes being top and bottom, its just I was trying to put a  small screwdriver inbetween the meeting faces and it felt like there was a good resistance to come out, then I felt what I thought was another nut.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Clout it with a lump of wood and hammer as Wotever said, on the starter body, not the solenoid.  Being stuck like that is another sign that it's been submerged or rained on at some time.

Edited by bizzard
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most starters are secured in place by two bolts, but once in a while I encounter one secured by three. If there are three, they are always 90 degrees apart. 

Not sure I've ever seen three on a BMC starter though. Others will know better...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.