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Karen Lea Rainey

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About Karen Lea Rainey

  • Birthday 04/29/1965

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Midlands
  • Interests
    I use my wife's Facebook page to log in, I dont have one thanks Keith
  • Boat Name
    Hawkeye
  • Boat Location
    Coventry canal

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  1. The anode was bolted on to a fixed hinge inside the water tank, the whole of the anode would have been underwater , not touching the sides of the hull, just fixed mid water.
  2. Have you got an on/off valve closed on the pipe to the calorifier or something similar in the pipework stopping any flow of hot water. If you've only just had the boat, was it all drained down some time ago hence closed valve or air crept into pipes creating a blockage.
  3. Thank you both for your responses, reading the document above, magnesium is an important part of the human nutritional diet. Sadly the potency of the water with this amount of magnesium in it, is almost certainly bad for your health. Tomorrow, empty the water tank, allow to dry, repaint, flush through again and refill with fresh unadulterated tap water. Thanks again.
  4. Unbelievable, or is it me, have I missed some new brainwave idea with anodes. Having recently taken on a new to me, (older boat). When i ran the taps in the galley or bathroom, i got a whiff of pongy eggs coming out of the taps/ sink. I put it down to water that has sat unused in the cold water holding tank, going stale/contaminated etc. I added a small amount of milton and flushed it through the system. Only then did i realise ' what's this bl****y anode doing in the cold water tank ? It's obviously been there a long time as its virtually wasted away and used up, I've never come across this practice before, have i missed something? Obviously this hasn't been used for drinking water or even cooking etc, Personally I wouldn't want to wash in it either and smell of bad eggs all day. Can anyone give me a good reason to put a new anode back in its place.
  5. Sorted now, picked up a brass olive connection, 5/16th I believe from Streethay, Nick there was very good and quickly sorted the size. Fitted in beautifully. Engine now runs at tickover around 44 lbs pressure, under load goes upto 60 lbs and then reduces slowly. Picture of the end piece of the horrible tube, it's incredibly hard, definitely a nylon type tube.
  6. Brainwave over night ! What about a small brass olive it's about 3 or 4 mm and do away with the barb and use a compression fitting nut?
  7. I will call into Streethay tomorrow to see what they have available, oil pipe or threaded barb etc,, My guess is I need approx 5 to 6 metres of pipe, the gauge is at waist height on the back of the trad stern with the other gauges, all Smith's gauges for oil pressure, voltage, etc in the standard 52mm sets. It then travels down the inside of the control panel with the throttle cable and gearbox cable, goes under the floor of the boatmans cabin for approx 8 or 9 feet and into the engine room for another 3 feet or so, reckon on approx 16 feet in total.( 5 metres). It will be a sod to replace the pipe so I'm hopeful we can work around it. I cut a small circular gasket with metal inside it to fit inside the threaded barb today and tightened it up well, knowing the oil pressure is around 45 or 50 lbs I thought that should hold it until properly repaired. Started the engine with no leaks of oil for 20 mins plus running. Thank you all for your input, i am very grateful for your knowledge.
  8. I wonder if I could change the barb/screwed thread, I took the joint off today to get a better grip. Surely I can buy the connection with less ball on the end and clamp it on with a circlip.?
  9. Tried with boiling water for 4 or 5 attempts today, I cannot get any stretch in the nylon tube, boil the kettle again and again with no joy, even tried 2 pairs of soft claw molegrips, to give a bit more shove and push and twist. The nylon tube just will not stretch. As the boat is 40 years old , I suspect that this could be the original oil pressure nylon tube, could it be that due to age and heat over the years that the tube has now lost all elasticity, therefore would I be better to just replace the tube and be safer/ happier knowing it's not gonna split and lose my oil unbekowingly.
  10. Just need a bit of advice, my dense plastic pipe that goes from my oil gauge to the sender and oil filter has a small split across the end of the barb which holds the pipe on. I can cut the pipe at the end of the barb tail and reattach there is plenty of length of spare pipe, it looks incredibly tight on to the barb, Is there a knack or solution to use when refitting the pipe back on once removed. It is a Lister HRW2 with I think a Borg Warner gearbox and Jabsco water pump/ oil cooler unit attached. I dont want to very far to get a repair done for fear of losing a lot of oil and major consequences. Perhaps you could give me some advice on the best way to reattach the pipe and confirm my thoughts on the gearbox make etc. Pictures attached.
  11. Got my mooring pins and spare chimneys, hammers etc in, very useful box it is now.
  12. Karen Lea Rainey

    Karen Lea Rainey

  13. Thought I'd share this picture with you of my "fake Epping stove". Recently took a new boat with an Epping stove, well bits of one! Wooden box built to similar size, screw on the original doors add the collar, paint it black and here it is. Now just need a 4 1/2 inch inside diameter flue pipe to add to the authenticity! About 1 metre long should do it, if any body has a piece I'd be 'grate' full.
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