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Strawberry Orange Banana Lime Leaf Slate Sky Blueberry Grape Watermelon Chocolate Marble
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Karen Lea Rainey

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About Karen Lea Rainey

  • Birthday 04/29/1965

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  • Gender
    Female

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  • Occupation
    housewife

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  1. Hi All, I,m pretty sure I've got an air lock in the coils inside my calorifier, It's an Isuzu engine with just the skin tank and calorifier connected, the boat is new to me but the calorifier was newly installed and not commissioned prior to me purchasing the boat. It is a 55ltr upright sure cal unit. When I run the engine at about 8-900 rpm (just above tickover) I would have expected to have generated at least some Luke warm water through the hot taps. There is no bleed point on the calorifier pipes leading to the engine, there is however a T piece bleed point on the pipe from the skin tank, The skin tank gets pretty warm after 20 mins or so so I know the circulation is good for water cooling of the engine, you can feel the lower pipe entering into the calorifier getting warm but the pipe 3 inches or so above it is nearly cold, hence I dont think the water is circulating in the internal coil. I have blipped the engine to around 3000 rpm for a full minute hoping that the higher pumping pressure will force any air round the system and clear the air lock from the coils but it hasn't worked. There is no ( open valve/close valve) tap upon exiting the calorifier before the sink taps and I do have a full flow of water at the hot tap, it's just not warm. Q. Can I just remove the higher hose pipe coming from the calorifier to where it enters the top of the engine and put a water hose in the heater pipe hence forcing any water around the engine, clearing the air lock and allowing the air to escape through the expansion tank with the cap removed. Ps there appears to be plenty of water in the engine with the expansion tank showing almost full which is also the highest point of the engine and pipeworks.
  2. Sounds like a t cut restorer and a mer type polish is the first effort. Thanks for your replies.
  3. Hi All, the steel sides of my narrowboat have 10 year old paint on them.its still intact with no rust patches or broken flaky paint. The paint has gone lighter from the sun / weather, my darker greeny grey now looks a few shades lighter. The other day I spilt some 3 in 1 oil on it when I was putting a bit of oil on the side hatch hinges. As I wiped it off the colour came shining through and the colours looked rejuvinated in an instant. It's been over a week now and that one patch of oil which was rubbed in/off still looks better than the rest of the boat in my view. Is there a product other than 3 in 1 that will enhance the colour all over again ? Or Will a clear varnish work in the same way, Thank you
  4. Sounds like you left something switched on, ( fridge /lights/pump/alarm) or other. The domestic side battery has died, you may just be able to recover the starter battery if it's pretty new but the likelihood of that happening is quite small. Jump start it with leads from a fully charged battery and let it run for about an hour to get it back to 12.5 v and see how long it lasts. If that's the leisure battery at 3 v bin it, it will never come back past about 7 or 8 v and wont have enough charge to power anything. Experts may give more detailed advice soon
  5. Yes then I have an ammeter, with the pos and neg points to put on the battery terminals, to check voltage I turn it on to 20 volts for a more accurate readout. Sounds like the thing I forgot to do was rev it, instead I expected to see a higher reading when the engine is running.
  6. How do you check the charging current ? I've only ever checked the voltage readings on the battery terminals with my multi tester. Rev it, I will have to do next time I'm at the boat and check to see if the light goes out and see if the voltage goes up through excitement !!!
  7. The engine is running throughout the voltage recordings, the exciter charging light remained on throughout all the readings, thanks
  8. Yes the engine was idling, but the tickover is set quite high at the moment, that is something else I need to address in the coming weeks, I forgot about revving the engine, so have I got it wrong, what should the voltage be around when I,m revving up a bit ?
  9. Hi All, I have a problem with the alternator, I think, To start, I checked voltage at the batteries , it was 12.63 v before starting. (All 3 batteries are pretty new and wired in series). Started the Isuzu 1.2 engine after 10 seconds heating, it started straight away no problem. The charging light comes on and stays on, it is quite bright and constant. Immediately check the voltage at the batteries again, it's now 12.52 v, Wait a couple of minutes, check voltage again, it's now 12.56 v After 10 minutes, check the voltage again, it's now 12.58 v After 30 mins the voltage has now got to 12.68 volts. The charging light is still brightly lit, turned the key to off for a couple of minutes which extinguishers the charging light and checked in another couple of minutes, we've now got 12.70 v, Surely the alternator isn't doing it's job or am I wrong ? The alternator belt is tight with only a tiny bit of slack in it, the smaller cables to the alternator are firmly attached as are the other cables. I,m pretty sure the alternator has given up, the boat is new to me and has spent the last 8 years moored up in a marina being slowly refitted out. I have taken some pictures of the alternator but it is difficult to get a clear picture, from what I can make out it's an Hitachi alternator , but I cannot see any model numbers etc, can anyone tell which one it is and point me in the direction of a replacement please.
  10. Surely, if all taps are closed off and the PRV is good the the pump would not be able to run, the water has to escape from somewhere in the system pipework for it to keep running ! Doesn't it, I can't work out any other fault but the PRV .
  11. The new valve is probably not seating on cylinder properly, I had a similar problem in the summer, if you lift the PRV valve up and down it may after a few good "thwaks" up and down it will clear the scale that may be the culprit , alternatively the PRV valve internal washers/ seal may itself not be closing. (Which then lets water through it, instead of stopping it).
  12. Hi David, was thinking of going to look at the boat given that its priced reasonably, how necessary was the over plating when you had it, was it the sides at water line or uxter  plate etc that needed doing.

    Also the index number doesn't match the year of build , it states 1989 build in advert, but the index no 79666 matches a boat built pre 1980. Do you know any history of why this should be?

    Much appreciated thank you

    1. dor

      dor

      Hi Karen

      The year of manufacture was definitely 1988 or 1989.   BW as it was then were a bit erratic with there numbering back then, and so there are some odd anomalies.  Just realised - the number you give is 79666, Isis (formerly 'Four Winds') was 75666.

      The boat for sale on "Boatsandoutboards" is definitely the Isis I had.

      I had the boat surveyed in 2007 as it was coming up to 20 years old.  The surveyor was a bit over-cautious, and also I suspect was in with the owner of the yard where it was surveyed who ten offered to buy it from me at a very low price!  The bow was very knocked about and was scalloped around the internal ribs leading to points of weakness on the high spots.  It also had some quite significant pitting which was the main reason for recommending over-plating. Much of the pitting that I saw was on the sides of the hull (the hull had been pressure-washed with blacking in mind) but there were also thin patches on the base plate.  I'm quite surprised it has survived another ten or eleven years since I parted with it without being over-plated.  Maybe the pitting has been filled with a squirt of MIG weld - potentially dangerous as the insulation was expanded polystyrene.

      Hope this helps; feel free to contact me if you have any other questions.

       

  13. My BMC smokes a bit on start up, then within 3 or 4 mins it's clear, when I then apply a little acceleration you get another burst of smoke for 3 or 4 seconds then no smoke for the rest of the journey. I thought this was normal for a BMC!!!
  14. Try to take up a 4ft x 2ft floor panel or similar at the back of the boat, you need to check the cross beams that the ply has been screwed down into or nailed into. If they have been sodden for a while they stand a chance of being rotten, they will need replacing , otherwise you may well just 'paper over the cracks' so to speak, sometime in the near future you may well walk over that area and feel spongy flooring, or uneven flooring which you may well regret doing when you had the opportunity.
  15. Just to report back, put the ignition wire, glow plug wire and live wire ignition on the correct poles, checked for a good earthing cleaned all contacts, and it works fine now. Thanks particularly to Tony for making the leads diagram 'black & white.
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