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Kettle trips shore RCD


mross

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I was under the impression that the EU had forbidden any electrical appliances (kettles, hoovers etc) that were above 1600w ?.

 

Having done a search - yes - it was announced in 2014 after the 'Hoover Ban' and draft legislation issued but it is not yet passed

 

A study ordered by the European Commission, currently in draft form, has identified up to 30 electrical appliances including lawn mowers, smart phones and kettles that could be covered by the EU's Ecodesign directive outlawing high-wattage devices.

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....which is an RCBO, NOT an RCD as stated in the title.

I'd suggest a 2kW model if you can find one but obviously this one (perhaps common with that range or make) has a 'dirty' disconnect, so almost any other make is worth trying.

 

Tony

 

As above, now its been shown its (probably) tripping on overcurrent.

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RCDs don't like transients (nasty jagged shaped sparky thingies). Subject to anyone who has resolved this - but some surge protection device might help.

So why doesn't my RCD trip when I turn my Kettle, Toaster.Microwave or cooker on at home, not forgetting the washing machine and tumble dryer, non are fitted with surge suppressors.

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ditchcrawler, on 13 Sept 2016 - 6:43 PM, said:

So why doesn't my RCD trip when I turn my Kettle, Toaster.Microwave or cooker on at home, not forgetting the washing machine and tumble dryer, non are fitted with surge suppressors.

 

As The Management says - "Because"....

It depend on the quality of the equipment etc etc I had no end of trouble with an early 30mA trip so put the offending kit on a board with an 100mA trip...

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If it trips the RCD on your boat supply then it should also trip the RCD in a house, it could be faulty, some new items are.

 

If it's doing it because of spikes, the longer cable runs and greater number of circuits in a house will have more inductance, which could be enough to suppress the spikes.

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My two pennyworth.

 

The auto off mechanisms seem to rely on ducting a sniff of the steam (as it comes to the boil) down the inside of the handle and using the heat to operate a bi-metal do-dah to flick the switch off.

Is it perhaps possible that there is some damp getting between the live parts of the electric switch (which I would expect to be in close proximity to the switch lever) and an earthed point (the body)?

It is also technically possible that a similar conductive path from the neutral to the body could be causing the nuisance trips.

 

Is it worth generating load spikes by manually clicking it on and off a few times (prior to boiling) to see if it trips in the absence of any damp / drips?

 

Regards to all

 

16csvt

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