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16csvt

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Gongoozler

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  1. My two pennyworth. The auto off mechanisms seem to rely on ducting a sniff of the steam (as it comes to the boil) down the inside of the handle and using the heat to operate a bi-metal do-dah to flick the switch off. Is it perhaps possible that there is some damp getting between the live parts of the electric switch (which I would expect to be in close proximity to the switch lever) and an earthed point (the body)? It is also technically possible that a similar conductive path from the neutral to the body could be causing the nuisance trips. Is it worth generating load spikes by manually clicking it on and off a few times (prior to boiling) to see if it trips in the absence of any damp / drips? Regards to all 16csvt
  2. Didn't need to remake the joint, just gave the external tarnish a scrub. I used to have access to a set of non hydro lever action BICC crimpers. but sadly no more. Dependant on which way retirement takes me, I might invest in a cheap and cheerful hydro tool with assorted dies, but not yet. Regards 16csvt
  3. There does not seem to be any appetite to 'play the game' . I had hoped to create a tail to the thread which would have consisted of the combined wisdom of the many interested bodies, which may well have been of use to a less electrically savy person in the future. Never mind. To the chase. Laurries problem was a corroded crimp connector. Not one of the little 'squash it on yourself with pliers' type, a proper 25 sq mm to M6 / M8 lug. To be fair, it didn't look that bad from a distance. Once diagnosed, on dissasembly there was hardly anything to be seen, a tiny bit of brown between the hole and the threaded stud, and a slight coat of white powder. Rubbed it off with a green kitchen scouring pad. It was in the 0V return from the block back to the neg battery straps. The other two proper lug ends on the battery post adaptor were a tad oily, but were making to the post adaptor. The crimp from the 0V return was up at +6V or so, while still sandwiched in the stack, but only when trying to pass start current. That is why he only saw +4 or so when turning the key. I would have half expected white, blue or perhaps green powdery corrosion on a battery connection. Can't be sure where the brown came from, but the header tank is almost directly above the joint There did not however, seem to have been a flood of brown oily water onto the cables. That would have suggested another , greater, problem. I do not recall a strap to the hull. It is almost as if the installer was trying to achieve an insulated return arrangement while using a chassis return starter. Unless of course it used to be insulated return and the starter has been changed at some time in the dim and distant past for a chassis return one. Laurries account of the events is fairly accurate from a laymans perception, but the events were technically slightly different. All voltages measured w.r.t. Start battery neg post, Start batt +ve Well up, 12 /13V ish. Work the starter, only drops perhaps 0.5v. Starter solenoid input. Same as observed at the Batt +ve The retun came from deep down under the engine rear end, via a red key isolator, backto the negative straps on the batteries. Difficult to get at. Jump lead from a convenient thick bare metal point on the top of the engine back to the negative batt straps just to check / confirm it was a return issue. Engine started very nicely. Stop engine. Remove jump lead. Work way along return path, dab on the point to be tested and work the starter. Anything more than perhaps 0.25, 0.5V means I hadn't got to the fault yet. Getting typically 6V or so all the way along the path. All the way to the crimp back at the neg straps. Adjacent crimps at 0V wrt start batt neg post. Strip clean reassemble. Starts grand. Cup of tea, prove it again (Sod's law detect and prevent). The End. Mike, your confusion probably derives from the fact the engine return presents itself onto the post connected to Domestic1, but tis of little effective consequence as all the negs are strapped together with good cable and proper ends. Regards to all 16csvt
  4. I didn't even say which year! Got it sorted. Re-proved the eating of the pudding before I left him yesterday. He should now be able to make his forthcoming trip hopefully without further ado. Indeed, I think he would now be able to make Plymouth (if so ordered). Been doing family stuff Monday PM, then a move north. then work....etc. Need to retire. Can't do with work getting in the way any more. Do the forumeers want to conduct a Q&A to trace the cause (which may perhaps be of use to someone in the future with a similar issue), or do folks just want the bottom line? (If you really can't wait, PM for the bottom line). Although I've only done hire boating so far, so have not previously attended such a problem on a boat, I've seen this fault a number of times on all manner of equipments, devices and vehicles. I confess it did catch me out the very first time (many years ago). Some of the previous posts were not far away, one was bang on, but it's also the finding out WHERE it is occuring. Now, it was resolved fairly promptly, on a bank holiday afternoon. From that, one can conclude we / I / he did not need to go shopping. Laurrie had measured the batt volts, and the Fluke agreed with his readings (or thereabouts). We are both still walking and talking, so did not do ourselves a mischief having to wheel any batteries to a charge point. Dare we assume that anyone chasing such a problem would have access to an inexpensive battery powered voltmeter (Beg, Borrow, Buy, St..). Carrie has three batteries, START, DOM1 and DOM2. The negatives are all strapped together with good thick wires, with proper ends on. DOM1 & 2 have a good thick strap with proper ends on putting them in parallel. All the nuts / bolts are nipped up just nicely, none slack, none on the verge of stripping. Domestic did not show any noticeable problems or symptoms. ALL the cables were / are in the right place. Turn the key, and the (pre engaged type) starter goes CLUNK, normally just the once, letting go (KNULC??) when the key is released. No WHIRR. not a sniff. Occasionally clunk a clunck a clunk a cl.... untill the key is released. With the negative (black) test lead wedged in the START batt negative connector, and the positive lead firmly touching the START batt +ve terminal, make a long arm and operate the start switch. CLUNK. An observed of 11.8 would be typical for this fault. Release the key. Leaving the black probe still wedged in the -ve post, which connection point would the assembled hordes wish to check / test next. I did not say where do you want me to put it next. The replies might differ from the answer sought REgards 16csvt.
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  7. Mirrored scales, shunts and multipliers. Takes me back more years than I care to remember! Now, I've used a mirror galvo, where the pointer is a reflected beam of light, so the pointer could be as long or as short as one wished, with nil mass / inertia to boot. I don't recall a ballistic galvo. I'm intrigued. Regards Kevin
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  9. Speaking as one who (foolishly?) put one in an old land-rover, I can say the 4.203 is fiendishly heavy, and is all torque and no revs.The engine crane (not a cheap one) was straining and bending and was argueably 'in excess of rated capacity'. There was so much torque that the use of first gear or reverse, led, on more than one occasion, to what may be described as silver plated plastercine fragments in the gear box. IIRC it hit the govenor at 2750 rpm (42mph on standard diffs). The engine number is usually stamped in the block above the flywheel housing, (but not high enough to be on the head). Perkins permitted others to manufacture under licence. UK engines have a 'U' in the serial no. Spannish engines have an 'E' in the s/n. Beware non UK engines. Mine was Spannish, and finding a water pump to fit was a nightmare. Apart from the above, not a bad design if used in the right application. Dry liners, beware option of chromed liner / iron rings against iron liner / chromed rings. Get it wrong, you'll be looking at replacing all the vertical moving bits. Lucas / CAV dpa pump. Indirect injection with external removable chambers. Timing was all gears, no belt or chain. OHV with pushrods and rockers. Option for aux hydraulic pump driven off timing gears. No glow plugs, used a cav thermostart thing which let a waft of flame down the inlet to cold start. If fitted with the CAV 'coaxial??' (CA45??) starter then the starter can be expensive to sort out. In the few years I ran mine, it never failed to start even on the coldest days even though the thermostart was not connected up!. The opinion of others may well differ, but thats my three penneth. regards Kevin
  10. If I ever have to look at a switched mode power supply that is blowing fuses, putting a bulb in series is a useful way of being able to find what is short, while keeping the current 'within limits'. One can also use different sized bulbs to give a different 'current limit'. It is still worrying when you think you've sorted it, and switch the bulb out of cct. Expect a bang, and if there isn't, bonus. I've also used this technique on the van, when one cable went solid to ground over a sharp edge along its length. Putting a 12V bulb instead of a fuse enabled alot of cable wriggling to show where the short was (when the bulb went out) Regards all Kevin
  11. I also went for a look at lock 34 on Sunday. Very interesting. I didn't realise the extent of the fresh water mussel problem. Put a couple of quid in the tin as the paid employees were not able to be overly productive due to having to shepherd the public round. Lots of public about, the cafe further up must have done a roaring trade. The only thing that spoilt it / annoyed me was getting professionally 'chugged' on the way from lock34 to the cafe. It wouldn't have been quite so bad if only the chugger had some knowledge of the canals. Regards to all Kevin Now then Big BobW, about these dogs, and the 8 acre problem
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  13. Might it be possible to convert to a 'poly-Vee' belt? A conventional belt will surely not drive particularly well on the periphery of a flywheel. Is the flywheel crowned at all (to take an old fashioned flat canvas belt)? A polyvee might ride a crown quite well. Just my two pennyworth. Regards to all Kevin
  14. Dear OM I think over the years we have all put strange antenna arrangements on the car, the house, the boat, the dog's kennel and all sorts of places. Soon you'll want an antenna available for any band, a yagi available (but flat on the roof for storage), and a converted satelite dish for 'long range' free wifi. The harder the bug bites, the worse / better (dependant on one's perspective) it gets. We've all done it to a greater or lesser extent. Please forgive me if I am getting a vision of what used to be known as a Russian 'Spy Trawler' Good luck with the exam.....is it still C+G 765 parts A and B ???? 73 de G8NTJ
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