Cutting 70mm cable......bolt croppers vs junior hacksaw?

[Iain_S]

(snip) ... and then cover the lot in adhesive heat shrink for a professional finish.

 

I have found that heat shrink tends to crack when it ages, which is one reason I use self amalgating tape. (The other reason is that I never seem to have the right size of heat shrink to hand)

 

Heat shrink would probably last a lot longer in a boat than up an antenna mast, though

 

To answer the original question, I confess that I usually use a full size hacksaw with fine blade, clamped between the knees.

[bizzard]

You can buy very fine toothed razor saws fro model shops.

[Paul C]

 

I have found that heat shrink tends to crack when it ages, which is one reason I use self amalgating tape. (The other reason is that I never seem to have the right size of heat shrink to hand)

 

Heat shrink would probably last a lot longer in a boat than up an antenna mast, though

 

To answer the original question, I confess that I usually use a full size hacksaw with fine blade, clamped between the knees.

 

Interesting - how long do you think heatshrink is good for? And amalgamating tape?

[Guest]

Flux is corrosive. At least you crimped first. So adding the solder was not necessary - a waste of your time, solder, flux and heat. Adding the solder was mildly detrimental for the long term, but it will no doubt last many years anyway. Adding the solder will make the terminations look a little messy and amateurish.

 

So adding the solder had zero positive consequences and minor negative consequences. Why did you waste your time and money?

 

A better way is to add a bit of silicone grease to the hole and then cover the lot in adhesive heat shrink for a professional finish.

Very true. Seen the effects of this a couple of times.

Well hopefully it is connected by means of a crimp.

 

Anyway the point is that crimping is the (vastly) better solution when integrity in the face of movement and vibration is important. Funnily enough you also get movement and vibration on a canal boat, though probably at lower energies. So you can do soldering or crimping. Crimping is better. You can't really get away with soldering on an aircraft (failure rate would be too high). You can probably get away with it on a canal boat but why take the risk when doing it properly is so easy?

Sorry I was being a cheeky

Agree and crimping is my first choice on the water or in the air.

[emlclcy]

hold a Stanley knife blade in a pair of mole grips place over wire with a wooden block underneath and hit it hard with a hammer. makes a perfect cut

[John V]

A better way is to add a bit of silicone grease to the hole and then cover the lot in adhesive heat shrink for a professional finish.

 

 

 

I have found that heat shrink tends to crack when it ages, which is one reason I use self amalgating tape.

 

 

 

Interesting - how long do you think heatshrink is good for? And amalgamating tape?

 

The best finish is to use Hellermann sleeves........of course you do need a pair of Hellermann pliers to fit them

[Iain_S]

 

Interesting - how long do you think heatshrink is good for? And amalgamating tape?

 

The antenna pole example lasted about 2 years, although signs of failure were apparent a few months prior to its replacement. This is probably not a fair example, though, as it was exposed to weather, and I think it was probably ultra-violet light that did it in. (To be honest, I've no idea why heat shrink had been used in that example; whoever did it probably ran ot of self amalgamating tape!)

 

I did find some really brittle stuff, which I think was about 10 years old and had been used to "patch" rotted (60 year old) rubber insulation.

 

I've always had to cut self amalgamating tape, which seems to get better with age.

[nigelmercier]

The best finish is to use Hellermann sleeves........of course you do need a pair of Hellermann pliers to fit them

I "stole" a set of these when I left the BBC, I couldn't possibly repeat what we called them.

[John V]

No.....the term is liberated

[Guest]

 

The antenna pole example lasted about 2 years, although signs of failure were apparent a few months prior to its replacement. This is probably not a fair example, though, as it was exposed to weather, and I think it was probably ultra-violet light that did it in. (To be honest, I've no idea why heat shrink had been used in that example; whoever did it probably ran ot of self amalgamating tape!)

 

I did find some really brittle stuff, which I think was about 10 years old and had been used to "patch" rotted (60 year old) rubber insulation.

 

I've always had to cut self amalgamating tape, which seems to get better with age.

Bloody good tack. I always have some in the toolbox.

[cuthound]

I "stole" a set of these when I left the BBC, I couldn't possibly repeat what we called them.

No.....the term is liberated

No I think he simply forgot to return them, as I did with a complete tool kit from a previous employer when I was promoted to management.

[jonesthenuke]

The best finish is to use Hellermann sleeves........of course you do need a pair of Hellermann pliers to fit them

 

Wait until the sleeve plus lubricant combination (both Hellerman) ages and the sleeves become conductive, randomly interconnecting pins on large multiway connectors. All sorts of fun sorting that out....... You probably have to wait 30+ years to see this effect though.

 

I would stick to heat shrink. I have yet to see problems with that.

[John V]

 

Wait until the sleeve plus lubricant combination (both Hellerman) ages and the sleeves become conductive, randomly interconnecting pins on large multiway connectors. All sorts of fun sorting that out....... You probably have to wait 30+ years to see this effect though.

 

I would stick to heat shrink. I have yet to see problems with that.

 

Hellermann lubrication ???.......oh you mean spit

 

30+ years....that's ok I've retired (and if someone complains when I'm a centenarian.......... I should be worried)

[ditchcrawler]

 

 

 

 

 

The best finish is to use Hellermann sleeves........of course you do need a pair of Hellermann pliers to fit them

Back to my apprentice days putting rubber sleeves on cotton covered flex on wash boilers and irons

[bigste]

I once worked at a place that cut lots of big cable. Jubi!ee clip and angle grinder with metal cutting disc.

Edited March 7, 2016 by bigste

[swift1894]

Flux is corrosive. At least you crimped first. So adding the solder was not necessary - a waste of your time, solder, flux and heat. Adding the solder was mildly detrimental for the long term, but it will no doubt last many years anyway. Adding the solder will make the terminations look a little messy and amateurish.

So adding the solder had zero positive consequences and minor negative consequences. Why did you waste your time and money?

A better way is to add a bit of silicone grease to the hole and then cover the lot in adhesive heat shrink for a professional finish.

Oh well it's done now. I just thought adding a little bit of solder through the hole would create extra contact between the end of the cable, which would otherwise not be really touching the inside of the lug. It looks quite neat actually. I'll use self amalgamating tape where the cable meets the lug collar.

[Guest]

Oh well it's done now. I just thought adding a little bit of solder through the hole would create extra contact between the end of the cable, which would otherwise not be really touching the inside of the lug. It looks quite neat actually. I'll use self amalgamating tape where the cable meets the lug collar.

It will probably last a lifetime

[Loafer]

It should certainly last me for mine!