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Loafer last won the day on March 15 2016

Loafer had the most liked content!

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193 Good

About Loafer

  • Birthday 04/04/1956

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Continuous Cruiser
  • Interests
    Electrics, Photography, Aviation, Drone flying, Sailing, Narrowboating.

Previous Fields

  • Occupation
    Professional Loafer
  • Boat Location
    Too variable

Recent Profile Visitors

4458 profile views
  1. I think any alternators should be connected to the domestic bank directly, and to the engine battery via a relay, meself!
  2. Are you talking about a vegetable substance suitable for a gentleman's late evening relaxation period, such as the one I'm currently enjoying?
  3. Before we get too squiffy GL, do the cells in your batteries have a slot in them, for unscrewing, say? Don't let this query get in the way of a good glassful, there's always tomorrow!
  4. You're probably right to question it - but by 'sealed' I also mean Gel, AGM and others like them, some of which are 14.4 max. I doubt GL will be too affected here though, and I do agree with your observation.
  5. sub-cellular? Maybe she's referring to her husband or summat!
  6. What does that mean then, GL2?
  7. This post cannot be displayed because it is in a forum which requires at least 10 posts to view.
  8. Keep your cut and paste tool handy - there'll be more tips along soon. Here's another couple: 5. If you have 'sealed' batteries, then they mustn't be charged at more than 14.4V. 6. If you have 'wet cell' batteries (which you probably have) then charge them at 14.8V, but their cells must be topped up with de-ionised water from time to time. (Once a month in my case) Don't let me hog this, you electrical chaps. Feel free to add or correct. GL2 can copy the bits she wants.
  9. Here's the quick version, and I invite amendments, for GL's sake. 1. Don't ever let your batteries get below 12.0V normally. 11.5V exceptionally. 11.0V in dire emergency. 2. 12.2V is a better minimum, measured when nothing is 'running'. 3. Charge once every 2 days at least, notwithstanding the above. When you DO charge, make sure that you get the charge current down to 4A, and preferably 2A. (at 14.6V or so) 4. Get solar panels and an MPPT controller. If money is tight, I'd spend it on the MPPT controller rather than a Smartgauge. GL, cut and paste as required. More adv
  10. They DON'T have a 4 year warranty, GL, unless it relates to a manufacturing fault. The will NOT last 4 years under live aboard charging regimes, NOR will you be able to claim. Unfortunately, the signs of under-charging make themselves obvious in the event of a warranty claim after 18 months. A summary is wot I will give you, if you wish, of good charging recommendations!
  11. Yes the Victron controller will set 100% SOC every time it sees Vc AND It for a certain time, also programmable. Numax batteries will probably see you for 2 years as a live aboard, if you keep them charged as per the many recommendations on here. If you'd like a summary, I'll dream one up for you.
  12. Another thing worth noting, GL2, is the RATE of charge current decay, towards the end of your charge. You won't know how much your battery bank capacity is decreasing with age, but your ammeter will tell you that, if you observe it carefully. Get used to seeing how the charge current reduces, on your Victron gauge. (the 'I' display, just below 'V') As you reach fully charged NO MATTER WHAT the capacity is, you will note that the charging current changes more slowly. It would eventually come to a halt. So as an example, if you see that the charge current hasn't reduced much in the l
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