Jump to content

Anyone used Jenolite before?


Featured Posts

I'm clearing out a rusty bow locker and having wire brushed it and cleaned it I'm using Jenolite to help de-rust it. I've never used it before, only Vactan (but I couldn't get Vactan delivered to my local Click & Collect place, unfortunately). I've followed the destructions on the bottle which says it should start turning the rust grey while you're working it in to the surface and that's when you know to stop working it in.

 

However I've been working it in loads and nothing seems to be changing. I had to rest eventually and left it for an hour - still wet but still no change. So worked in another liberal coat of the stuff (it's the liquid so very runny).

 

It's been three hours now and it still looks kinda the same to me. Anyone used it before and know if it's going to work eventually?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree, rubbish stuff, vactan all the time for me, i used Jenolite on a car panel, it bloody rusted worse for some reason.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've found that all these rust converters work best with as thin as coat as you can do. Just a dab on a brush and work it in well then repeat. It's also a right pain to get it to dry on a cold or damp surface like a bilge or hull side below the water line.

 

Cheers

 

Gareth

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure that most of these products have been 'watered down' since they were originally introduced.

 

probably elfin safety fanatics have decided that phosphoric acid is not suitable for the irresponsible members of the present society.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have used Jenolite on cars i restored in the past - i remember the rust going black shortly after use?

 

I suspect you used the clear liquid stuff (phosphoric acid) which was very effective and simple to use

 

They made a Gel some time ago which I found to be pretty useless. I'm not sure which kind the clanger is using

 

Richard

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I find the thixotropic Jenolite excellent on smallish rusty scabs, 'it always works for me' as you don't rinse it off with water as I believe you do with the watery kind.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

I suspect you used the clear liquid stuff (phosphoric acid) which was very effective and simple to use

 

They made a Gel some time ago which I found to be pretty useless. I'm not sure which kind the clanger is using

 

Richard

 

it was about 20 yrs ago - it worked well but as said maybe now its not made the same - i think it was clear liquid.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm sure that most of these products have been 'watered down' since they were originally introduced.

 

probably elfin safety fanatics have decided that phosphoric acid is not suitable for the irresponsible members of the present society.

 

You are almost correct. All these products are based on an acid reacting with the iron oxide, the post office and many (most?) courier firms won't ship strong acid so manufacturers dilute it. A product that can't be mailed is harder to sell!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have decanted the Jenolite, into a glass or plastic container, before using, and not put any unused back into the bottle.

Any small amount of rust getting into the bottle will turn the whole bottle useless. 1 tiny speck is said to be enough.

 

Try a fresh new bottle.

 

Bod

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You say that as a statement rather than a question. But you're wrong, I'm afraid.

 

I used it direct from the bottle. And the bottle was new, I broke the seal when I used it yesterday. There's no way any rust could have got in it

 

I've decided it's just a bit cr*p.

 

Rubbed it down this morning and used my last dribble of Vactan on it instead. Only got enough for the base of the locker but it's better than leaving it like that and expecting primer to cling to it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've used it in the past on car body work and got good results although I think the modern stuff is not as effective.

 

Something I've noticed about any rust converters is that they rarely work on seriously rusty metal - the chemicals don't penetrate very far.It really important that as much rust as possible is removed mechanically before applying the converter to neutralise the rust hiding in the pits.

 

Another tip is to warm the metal thoroughly to drive out any moisture hiding in the remaining rust. then repaint in the usual way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You have decanted the Jenolite, into a glass or plastic container, before using, and not put any unused back into the bottle.

Any small amount of rust getting into the bottle will turn the whole bottle useless. 1 tiny speck is said to be enough.

 

Try a fresh new bottle.

 

Bod

 

 

You say that as a statement rather than a question. But you're wrong, I'm afraid.

 

I used it direct from the bottle. And the bottle was new, I broke the seal when I used it yesterday. There's no way any rust could have got in it

 

I've decided it's just a bit cr*p.

 

Rubbed it down this morning and used my last dribble of Vactan on it instead. Only got enough for the base of the locker but it's better than leaving it like that and expecting primer to cling to it.

 

Yes, apologies, I missed off the ?

It does seem from your answer, there was a problem with the product.

 

Bod

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Haven't used this stuff since about 1965 - if it's still the same then I'm sure technology must have come up with something better by now!

unfortunately not, because the chemicals used then are no longer considered user-friendly.

 

I remember Jenolite from 1962 and Trustan 40 from 1974, both oily liquids. They were excellent, but the (non-)equivalent products available today are not half as good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

unfortunately not, because the chemicals used then are no longer considered user-friendly.

 

I remember Jenolite from 1962 and Trustan 40 from 1974, both oily liquids. They were excellent, but the (non-)equivalent products available today are not half as good.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

just been researching and came across this: http://www.series2club.co.uk/forum/forum/index.php?action=printpage;topic=75335.0

 

the best critique of rust products I have ever read.


 

unfortunately not, because the chemicals used then are no longer considered user-friendly.

I remember Jenolite from 1962 and Trustan 40 from 1974, both oily liquids. They were excellent, but the (non-)equivalent products available today are not half as good.

 

and ?????

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You say that as a statement rather than a question. But you're wrong, I'm afraid.

 

I used it direct from the bottle. And the bottle was new, I broke the seal when I used it yesterday. There's no way any rust could have got in it

 

I've decided it's just a bit cr*p.

 

Rubbed it down this morning and used my last dribble of Vactan on it instead. Only got enough for the base of the locker but it's better than leaving it like that and expecting primer to cling to it.

I must admit I wondered that as well, sorry.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.