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Unusual tiller handle size


glitterhotdog

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hello there,

 

Hope you're all well, and enjoying the glorious weather we've been having!

 

I've just got a question about my tiller handle. When the boat was sold to me there was no proper tiller tube, just an oversized aluminium tube which doesn't offer much control. I've ordered a 1" tiller tube, but it's a 20th of an inch too small.

 

Does anyone have any experience of weird sized tillers? It's 1 1/20 inch and I'm not sure where I'm going to find a perfectly fitting tiller tube. Can brass be stretched at all, if I could heat it up, or would that weaken it too much?

 

Many thanks,

 

Lucy (Convair)

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Hmmm on checking aquafax.co.uk there are only two sizes, 1 1/4" and 1/1/2" internal diameter.

 

I'd imagine this is why there was no proper brass tiller in the first place!

 

A workshop with a lathe would be able to make a sleeve to adapt a 1 1/4" tiller bar, or machine your 1" bar to fit.

 

I doubt you'd be able to stretch it by heating.

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hello there,

 

Hope you're all well, and enjoying the glorious weather we've been having!

 

I've just got a question about my tiller handle. When the boat was sold to me there was no proper tiller tube, just an oversized aluminium tube which doesn't offer much control. I've ordered a 1" tiller tube, but it's a 20th of an inch too small.

 

Does anyone have any experience of weird sized tillers? It's 1 1/20 inch and I'm not sure where I'm going to find a perfectly fitting tiller tube. Can brass be stretched at all, if I could heat it up, or would that weaken it too much?

 

Many thanks,

 

Lucy (Convair)

Could well be a metric size Would equate to 26/27 mm

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I bought a spare tube which I thought was the same size but discovered the I.D. was slightly smaller. I used a good hole cutting blade in an electric drill to ream out the inside to the right size.

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hello there,

 

Hope you're all well, and enjoying the glorious weather we've been having!

 

I've just got a question about my tiller handle. When the boat was sold to me there was no proper tiller tube, just an oversized aluminium tube which doesn't offer much control. I've ordered a 1" tiller tube, but it's a 20th of an inch too small.

 

Does anyone have any experience of weird sized tillers? It's 1 1/20 inch and I'm not sure where I'm going to find a perfectly fitting tiller tube. Can brass be stretched at all, if I could heat it up, or would that weaken it too much?

 

Many thanks,

 

Lucy (Convair)

Midland Chandlers do 3 diameters and several lengths. http://www.midlandchandlers.co.uk/Catalogue/ProductList/tiller-tubes-handles?catalogueLevelItemID=0ea90058-bde5-457f-bb44-d8f10b276e7d

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Brass tube is manufactured in a relatively linited number of sizes - and even if you can find a stock size close enough, it almost certainly won't be polished. Take the brass tube you have to someone with a decent size lathe and have it bored to fit- if you were in this area I could recommend someone who would do it economically.

 

It's a quite a common problem - brass tube by companies who have never even heard of narrowboats, many boat builders build boats with ram's head diameters to suit themselves and leave it to the fitters or end users to sort out the resulting discrepency (search Somebody Else's Problem).

 

hth

 

Anthony

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Would it be possible to use some abrasive paper to reduce the diameter of the swan neck spigot to the correct size? 1/20th inch is 1.27mm or 0.635mm off the diameter all round.

That seems an awful lot of work to reduce the steel by that much.

 

N

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Would it be possible to use some abrasive paper to reduce the diameter of the swan neck spigot to the correct size? 1/20th inch is 1.27mm or 0.635mm off the diameter all round.

 

Possible but impractical. Several thousand hours' work I'd estimate!

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A big Bastard file would do it quite quickly. Or the most beautiful and exquisite homemade Flail can be made to enlarge the tubes bore. The flail can be made very simply by slipping two strips of emery cloth back to back into the split of a long split pin, slip them up under the pin's head and chuck the pin in an electric drill. The finished article should look like a big Dragonfly with a drill hanging from its tail. Hold the tube still in something and insert your flail into your tubes end, pull the trigger of the drill and away yer go. Won't take long.

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The Swan neck spigot might be galvanized, tubular, 'mine is', if so grinding it down would destroy the galvanizing. If so better to hone out the tube with the flail. Or get a straight length of steel tube for a tiller bar for just a few quid, perhaps from a car exhaust outlet, it comes in many sizes. Paint it chrome yellow and it'll look like sad.png brass from a

distance.

Edited by bizzard
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I reckon I could do it in half an hour with a lapping disc on a mini angle grinder.

 

I was replying to your post suggesting using abrasive paper, not power tools!

 

Besides I predict you'd find it virtually impossible to maintain an accurate cylindrical shape using an angle grinder.

Paint it chrome yellow and it'll look like sad.png brass from a

distance.

 

 

To make it look like my unpolished brass tiller bar, the OP would need to paint it the colour known as 'ship brown'.

 

I think that's what I've heard people call it anyway.

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I was replying to your post suggesting using abrasive paper, not power tools!

 

Besides I predict you'd find it virtually impossible to maintain an accurate cylindrical shape using an angle grinder.

 

 

To make it look like my unpolished brass tiller bar, the OP would need to paint it the colour known as 'ship brown'.

 

I think that's what I've heard people call it anyway.

The Tarnished look.

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My long tiller bar for when I'm alone on the back is steel, painted a nice azure blue. My short bar when I have company on the back is plain aluminium, cut from a road workers Stop-Go board pole handle, both are very precise fits, cos I am a veri presice sort of chap.

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I was replying to your post suggesting using abrasive paper, not power tools!

 

Yes I know Mike, keep your hair on! Having decided you were right I then suggested using a power tool. You really don't need to take such a petty, adversarial attitude.

 

Besides I predict you'd find it virtually impossible to maintain an accurate cylindrical shape using an angle grinder.

 

You don't need to maintain a perfectly cylindrical shape, you just go around slowly and evenly until the tiller handle just fits. A lapping disc will bend slightly around the bar which will help. I've done jobs like that before and its really not as impossible as you think.

Edited by blackrose
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Wouldn't it be easier to get the new tiller bar drilled out to fit the swans neck than reduce the diameter of the swans neck to suit the tiller?

I realise there would be a recurring issue if the tiller had to be replaced.

 

Reduced shank 27mm drill bits are available for 9.99 including delivery on ebay.

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Wouldn't it be easier to get the new tiller bar drilled out to fit the swans neck than reduce the diameter of the swans neck to suit the tiller?

I realise there would be a recurring issue if the tiller had to be replaced.

 

Reduced shank 27mm drill bits are available for 9.99 including delivery on ebay.

 

Opening out holes in brass with a drill can be a nightmare job, even in modest sizes. The drill is likely to grab violently, at that sort of size there would be a risk of damage to someting or somebody if not carefully planned.

Much better to find somebody with a lathe big enough to take the tube up the spout, really simple job for them.

 

Tim

Edited by Timleech
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