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eberspacher electrical misery


chubby

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Cheers Pquinn,

 

The guy who serviced my engine is a reliable chap so i ' m sure he didn t damage anything , but the coincidence that the eber doesn t work now when it did before the service has crossed my mind .

I ' m 90 % sure this is an electrical problem and will recheck everything later today .

The worst bit is the frustration after getting it working a few weeks ago .

 

cheers

 

 

Chubby...(Oh boy here I go again !!)

 

Maybe a couple of 'relight' attempts have either locked it out...or caused voltage drop due to glowplug load.

 

Your Eber fuel supply comes off a little black tap..that is 'T' junctioned into the engine fuel supply...near the fuel filter..

 

If I was the 'guy servicing your engine'..I would have turned that off before changing the engine filter as the Ebber fuel would have flowed back toward it...

 

so is it turned back on FULLY again.??

 

Secondly..the Eber fuel supply tap is so close to the engine filter..that any 'crud' dislodged while servicing would easily flow into your Eber..

Clean the little thimble Eber filter again.

 

Bob

Edited by Bobbybass
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Cheers folks ,

 

Ok . i m in my way back to the boat after work now and I will check every single connection & have a mooch along the fuel lines . If i can do anything to avoid pulling it to pieces again i ll do that as getting to the little dosing pump filter is a proper chore as the pump is inside the heater unit .

If i have to take it apart then so be it . I did also have concerns about the fuel line as the fuel filters were changed during the service . This was the first time it has been serviced since i bought it and the mechanic did say the filters were full of dirt .

I don t know what the procedure of changing this filter involves ( engine stuff will be my next learning curve on some engine srvicing course .... eventually ) but if the filters were in bad shape its possible maybe some crud got into the eber fuel line which is a slim 4mm pipe .

 

Any way i can check if the fuel line has a blockage that would require me to disconnect it from the eber BUT without removing the eber from the bulkhead ??

 

As i say , i ll first go right thru all the connections and will look into replacing the 3 torpedo fuses with spade type ones but as a novice at electrics i will have to be certain of what to do so i ll be checking on tinternet . I m sure its a doddle really .

 

Back soon ish

 

cheers again all

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OPEN LETTER HERE...

 

Re : Chubby's problem.

 

In light of the fact that (Chubby's) Eber filter is such a pain to get to...is there an 'inline' filter he could add to stop this happening ?

 

Any knowledgable people out there..?

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http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBERSPACHER-HEATER-INLINE-FILTER-NON-RETURN-VALVE-KIT-FREEPOST-/181109174665?pt=UK_Campervan_Caravan_Accessories&hash=item2a2af2b189

 

OPEN LETTER HERE...

 

Re : Chubby's problem.

 

In light of the fact that (Chubby's) Eber filter is such a pain to get to...is there an 'inline' filter he could add to stop this happening ?

 

Any knowledgable people out there..?

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cheers

 

ok back from work ..... kettles on . I need a fortifying cuppa before facing my eberspacher . Thanks again for all the help and suggestions .

 

I m not yet at the stage where iconduct my own engine servicing but surely the fuel filters job is to " filter " the " fuel " , hence the name ??? So surely the fuel after the filter is clean of debris and other unwanted stuff ?

Having said that , a belts & braces approach to keeping fuel lines clear could be a worthwhile approach providing it meets with BSS rules .

I ve got a BSS test in two weeks time so i ' ll ask then if such filters meet the requirements .

 

Cheers again & thanks for your patience

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Good idea,but not sure if fitting that would pass the BSC if it's applicable on your boat,

So be mindful !

I guarantee it wouldn't pass a BSS, I fit these http://www.directheatingsupplies.co.uk/pid_34187/435420/Oil-Filter-18489-.25-Bsp-Crosland.aspx?agid=586&gclid=CjkKEQjw-uubBRDs6rqExIXy7ZsBEiQACq4FqZx5AfK9RBdJHJge6k7CK3bUF_ggj3GmsT1QYDUHAArw_wcB unless fitting a new Webo where the kit includes a new BSS complian filter but they are expensive as an add on part. The picture seems to be upside down in the link for some wierd reason so don't be put off by that. You would also need 2 off 1/4" BSP to 3/16" hose tails and a couple of short bits of BS7840 hose to fit it to the copper fuel tube, that is the simple way, I also use 1/4 BSP compression reducers direct to the copper pipe but check the dia carefully first.

cheers

 

ok back from work ..... kettles on . I need a fortifying cuppa before facing my eberspacher . Thanks again for all the help and suggestions .

 

I m not yet at the stage where iconduct my own engine servicing but surely the fuel filters job is to " filter " the " fuel " , hence the name ??? So surely the fuel after the filter is clean of debris and other unwanted stuff ?

Having said that , a belts & braces approach to keeping fuel lines clear could be a worthwhile approach providing it meets with BSS rules .

I ve got a BSS test in two weeks time so i ' ll ask then if such filters meet the requirements .

 

Cheers again & thanks for your patience

The fuel should not be taken from the engine feed, either before or after the filter, it should be a separate dip tube so the engine's or any pre filter should not come in to the equation. Don't bother asking a BSS examiner if the plastic filter is compliant, it absolutely is not suitable for anything but road vehicles, they come with after market car and van kits.

Edited by NMEA
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Cheers NMEA ,

 

I must have posted at the same time . But , i completely agree with you & that too is exactly as i would do it. using exactly the same parts you mention .

 

Either that or

 

Thats too technical for me and i haven t a scooby doo what all that means , but i won t be fitting one i guess !!

 

Ok , quick cuppa & back to eber misery . Most folk come home happy after work but not me , today. at least . .... onwards !

 

cheers

Edited by chubby
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I guarantee it wouldn't pass a BSS, I fit these http://www.directheatingsupplies.co.uk/pid_34187/435420/Oil-Filter-18489-.25-Bsp-Crosland.aspx?agid=586&gclid=CjkKEQjw-uubBRDs6rqExIXy7ZsBEiQACq4FqZx5AfK9RBdJHJge6k7CK3bUF_ggj3GmsT1QYDUHAArw_wcB unless fitting a new Webo where the kit includes a new BSS complian filter but they are expensive as an add on part. The picture seems to be upside down in the link for some wierd reason so don't be put off by that. You would also need 2 off 1/4" BSP to 3/16" hose tails and a couple of short bits of BS7840 hose to fit it to the copper fuel tube, that is the simple way, I also use 1/4 BSP compression reducers direct to the copper pipe but check the dia carefully first.

The fuel should not be taken from the engine feed, either before or after the filter, it should be a separate dip tube so the engine's or any pre filter should not come in to the equation.

 

That's what I thought..Mr NMEA...

 

It can't be plastic..?..correct...?

 

As I recall ?...(??) the photo I saw of Chubby's setup has the large diameter fuel pipe near the top of the engine..with a 'T' joint feeding a small black shutoff tap...and then the smaller diameter Eber fuel pipe...from his shutoff tap.

 

A bit 'Heath Robinson' I thought...

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Good luck Chubby. I am sure with the advice given you will sort it out.

 

If it is at all any consolation, I am far far more clueless on ow't electrical than you ! My current problem is the car style radio, got wires all over and have not a clue other than trial and error, how to sort it .

 

Like you, I will not be beaten. May blow the lot up, but hey ho......

 

Chin up Chubby. :)

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I guarantee it wouldn't pass a BSS, I fit these http://www.directheatingsupplies.co.uk/pid_34187/435420/Oil-Filter-18489-.25-Bsp-Crosland.aspx?agid=586&gclid=CjkKEQjw-uubBRDs6rqExIXy7ZsBEiQACq4FqZx5AfK9RBdJHJge6k7CK3bUF_ggj3GmsT1QYDUHAArw_wcB unless fitting a new Webo where the kit includes a new BSS complian filter but they are expensive as an add on part. The picture seems to be upside down in the link for some wierd reason so don't be put off by that. You would also need 2 off 1/4" BSP to 3/16" hose tails and a couple of short bits of BS7840 hose to fit it to the copper fuel tube, that is the simple way, I also use 1/4 BSP compression reducers direct to the copper pipe but check the dia carefully first.

 

The fuel should not be taken from the engine feed, either before or after the filter, it should be a separate dip tube so the engine's or any pre filter should not come in to the equation. Don't bother asking a BSS examiner if the plastic filter is compliant, it absolutely is not suitable for anything but road vehicles, they come with after market car and van kits.

 

Sorry Guys, Totally forgot about the pesky BSS requirements for non plastic filters.

 

Rob

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Diesel fuel for the eber should be a separate feed and a separate tank means that you can add a little (10%~ ) kerosene to the fuel which reduces the rate at which they coke up considerably.

 

That's the snag you see...

 

Chubby doesn't have a seperate feed...somebody has just thought "I'll add an Eber"..

Then they have just 'T' junctioned it into the existing engine fuel pipe with a reduction and tap...or tap and reduction..?

That leaves it succeptable ..that when you service Eber...you can get dirt and air into the engine feed and vise versa..

 

Would need quite a rework..(Sorry... but beyond Chubby) to get the seperate supply feed.

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Cheers folks

 

So

 

My fuel system goes like this . From diesel tank a pipe runs to a " thing " made by Lucas . It has 4 numbered inlets / outlets . The diesel goes in one side at inlet 3 & exits from outlets 1 & 2 . Outlet two goes to the eber via a " twisty turney tap " with + & - presumably indication open or closed . Exiting this tap is a 4 mm copper pipe that runs to the eber .

Sorry for my embarassing descriptions but i am a novice .

 

I m going to examine the electrics first ,& re check each connection at the battery terminals & the 3 fuses inside the box .

The strange thing is that yo my mind the symptoms say " electrical fault " but the coincidence of it breaking down after a service suggest " fuel delivery " fault .

Ho hum .... i ll be back , sorry guys & cheers again

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Cheers folks

 

So

 

My fuel system goes like this . From diesel tank a pipe runs to a " thing " made by Lucas . It has 4 numbered inlets / outlets . The diesel goes in one side at inlet 3 & exits from outlets 1 & 2 . Outlet two goes to the eber via a " twisty turney tap " with + & - presumably indication open or closed . Exiting this tap is a 4 mm copper pipe that runs to the eber .

Sorry for my embarassing descriptions but i am a novice .

 

I m going to examine the electrics first ,& re check each connection at the battery terminals & the 3 fuses inside the box .

The strange thing is that yo my mind the symptoms say " electrical fault " but the coincidence of it breaking down after a service suggest " fuel delivery " fault .

Ho hum .... i ll be back , sorry guys & cheers again

 

Chubby...

 

When you check the fuses in the box....check the (centre ??...red...?.16 amp...?...) fuse.

 

I have said this before.

Common fault : The springs holding it at each get hot..and they loose their 'springy'.

make sure they are gripping the fuse tightly.

 

bob

 

PS...you're doing it again aren't you ?

I've started a nervous twitch again !..

Edited by Bobbybass
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Chubby dear chap, you have the tenacity of a Tasmanian Devil and the patience of a saint, when and if you develop the skill set you will be a force to be reckoned with.clapping.gif

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Diesel fuel for the eber should be a separate feed and a separate tank means that you can add a little (10%~ ) kerosene to the fuel which reduces the rate at which they coke up considerably.

Chubby's set up is similar to how Black Prince installed Ebers right across their fleet too.

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Chubby dear chap, you have the tenacity of a Tasmanian Devil and the patience of a saint, when and if you develop the skill set you will be a force to be reckoned with.clapping.gif

 

In the mean time...I'm back on the booze again....

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Chubby's set up is similar to how Black Prince installed Ebers right across their fleet too.

Boat builders should stick to what they know best, which in the case of narrowboat builders is welding.

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If this set up was mine I would remove that Eber fuel feed pipe from that filter and plug the port up. Run a new pipe with its own filter and tap back to and tee into the main fuel line near or at the tank . This will ensure that most of the Ebers fuel line is not interfered with when the engines filters are serviced like not letting air into the Webers pipeline. Secondly I'd change those fuses and holders to the Midi blade type. Thirdly I'd pull all the inline plugs and sockets and terminals apart, Squirt contact cleaner (industrial spirit) into and onto all the connections, clean and even perhaps tighten the contacts a touch by slightly squeezing the female sockets a touch ''if they're not brittle plastic holders that is'' with a pair of grips. I would then test the Eber. If ok, I would finally bind all the inline plug and socket connectors up tightly with self amalgamating tape.

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IBobby ,

 

Pm an address & i ll send. a case of meths .

c

I ve just blown the last red torpedo fuse i had spare . Off to Halfords .

 

It s fun this boating lark isnt it ! ...... isn t it ?

 

cheers

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If this set up was mine I would remove that Eber fuel feed pipe from that filter and plug the port up. Run a new pipe with its own filter and tap back to and tee into the main fuel line near or at the tank . This will ensure that most of the Ebers fuel line is not interfered with when the engines filters are serviced like not letting air into the Webers pipeline. Secondly I'd change those fuses and holders to the Midi blade type. Thirdly I'd pull all the inline plugs and sockets and terminals apart, Squirt contact cleaner (industrial spirit) into and onto all the connections, clean and even perhaps tighten the contacts a touch by slightly squeezing the female sockets a touch ''if they're not brittle plastic holders that is'' with a pair of grips. I would then test the Eber. If ok, I would finally bind all the inline plug and socket connectors up tightly with self amalgamating tape.

in this case would it not be better to start the other way round or the man could be foostering with this contraption for a year before he gets some heat?

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in this case would it not be better to start the other way round or the man could be foostering with this contraption for a year before he gets some heat?

Not sure, this could be fuel, being as it was serviced and the filter was interfered with, or electrical being as Chubby had a result by shoving together connectors, or both. One thing is certain though, that fuse that blew must have had power and must have been making good contact.

Edited by bizzard
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IBobby ,

 

Pm an address & i ll send. a case of meths .

c

I ve just blown the last red torpedo fuse i had spare . Off to Halfords .

 

It s fun this boating lark isnt it ! ...... isn t it ?

 

cheers

clapping.gif

Oh Chubby !.

 

Go to Halfords via the Pub, We love a Tryer !.

clapping.gif

My understanding of thease are,

When you switch it ON, the 'Brain' of the unit does like an on board diagnostic, EG Have I got Power, Fuel, Air, Exhaust, Something to Circulate ect, this takes a few seconds, if any one thing is missing, then it just stops.

I could be completely wrong, (I have the D5) and in my simple brain, that's how I see it anyway.so if you re-Check all the above our present, then the only other thing it might be is the Brain it's self, & lets not go there.

Yes, got to be honest Bizzard, the thought did cross my mind much earlier as posted above !.

But let's keep our fingers crossed for him, & lets be fair it's good to cheak all the easy bits first anyway.

 

& glad to see you've recovered from your terrible Electric Shock, Thoes 3v Door bells can really leave your ears ringing !.

Edited by Paul's Nulife4-2
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