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eberspacher electrical misery


chubby

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Oh Chubby !.

 

Go to Halfords via the Pub, We love a Tryer !.

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Yes, got to be honest Bizzard, the thought did cross my mind much earlier as posted above !.

But let's keep our fingers crossed for him, & lets be fair it's good to cheak all the easy bits first anyway.

 

& glad to see you've recovered from your terrible Electric Shock, Thoes 3v Door bells can really leave your ears ringing !.

I bet he doesn't by a blade fuse holder though, Halfords would sell them. Torpedo run Chubby, or Chubby the blade runner which is it gonna be. unsure.png

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Hmmm, tough call,

But I think it's going to be Torpedo !, purely based on convenients,he has spent so much on it at the mo, he just wants it up and running,

 

I think he is a bit demoralized, I even thought of sending him a Donut to lift his spirits, but it is my last one, so No chance of that happening.

Edited by Paul's Nulife4-2
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Aha

 

i see that theres been some fuse speculation going on . Well the upshot is i ve just wasted two hours . Having bought torpedo types for exactly the reason you stated Paul ... pure necessity , i ve got back , tried to fit them and now the holder is fecked .

So i m going to do now that which i intended to do at a later date - to change the crappy fuseholders to those which Bizzard & others recommend .

It s just that i m out of my depth with boat electrics & so i ' m a bit hesitant but now it must be done .

So i shall return to Halfords tomorrow to buy the necessary fuse holders & fuses . I might even re site the fuse box because the tosser who fitted it in the first place put it in the least accessible place but i expect this is standard procedure with boatbuilders because , of course , its never going to go wrong in future is it ?

 

Thing is i really don t understand what goes on with this fusebox . I ll explain as simply as i can .

 

three fuses : white , yellow , red from left to right .

A " main " thick red wire enters the fusebox at top left side , with a spade connector .

It connects to the fuses above the yellow fuse at the centre .

Then beneath the three fuses are further spade connections running off to god alone knows where .

So , to my eyes , this looks like one " fuseboard " with 1 spade connection at the top - above the middle fuse ( yellow ) & 3 spade connections at the bottom - 1 below each fuse .

 

Now IF this makes any sense or if you re familiar with the eber fusebox can anyone suggest WHAT i am to buy at Halfords . OR do i need to order a part on tinternet which involve annoying delays .

 

cheers guys

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PM me an postal address and I will send you three marine grade waterproof blade holders with little LED indicators that glow when the fuse blows, just pop a couple of quid in the next RNLI tin you see.

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Aha

 

i see that theres been some fuse speculation going on . Well the upshot is i ve just wasted two hours . Having bought torpedo types for exactly the reason you stated Paul ... pure necessity , i ve got back , tried to fit them and now the holder is fecked .

So i m going to do now that which i intended to do at a later date - to change the crappy fuseholders to those which Bizzard & others recommend .

It s just that i m out of my depth with boat electrics & so i ' m a bit hesitant but now it must be done .

So i shall return to Halfords tomorrow to buy the necessary fuse holders & fuses . I might even re site the fuse box because the tosser who fitted it in the first place put it in the least accessible place but i expect this is standard procedure with boatbuilders because , of course , its never going to go wrong in future is it ?

 

Thing is i really don t understand what goes on with this fusebox . I ll explain as simply as i can .

 

three fuses : white , yellow , red from left to right .

A " main " thick red wire enters the fusebox at top left side , with a spade connector .

It connects to the fuses above the yellow fuse at the centre .

Then beneath the three fuses are further spade connections running off to god alone knows where .

So , to my eyes , this looks like one " fuseboard " with 1 spade connection at the top - above the middle fuse ( yellow ) & 3 spade connections at the bottom - 1 below each fuse .

 

Now IF this makes any sense or if you re familiar with the eber fusebox can anyone suggest WHAT i am to buy at Halfords . OR do i need to order a part on tinternet which involve annoying delays .

 

cheers guys

Photo might help? Does it look like mine?

 

20140217_164640_zps5da9e60c.jpg

 

It was only I few months ago I was tinkering with mine so I have this photo to hand - if it's any help

Edited by BlueStringPudding
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BSP

 

You re an absolute star . Thats the same as mine but i have a red wire connected above the middle fuse .

NMEA - thats a very kind offer indeed . If they are suitable to replace whats on BSP s photo then i ll be happy to take you up on your offer & i ll stick a tenner in the RNLI box . More than Halfords but worth every penny .

 

cheers

  • Greenie 1
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They are not the same, that's the whole point, they are superior. You would need to connect all three tails to the main cable (the single one at the top) and then the tails individually to the other three cables, the fuse block in there would be put where it belongs, the bin. Alittle work to do it but the results are reliable.

 

Here's a link to the type I offer (and use myself as the default choice for inline fuses) http://www.force4.co.uk/10559/Force-4-Blade-Fuse-Holder-With-LED-Indicator.html?referrer=froogle&gclid=CjkKEQjw-uubBRDs6rqExIXy7ZsBEiQACq4FqYfQj1_I4ZOeMpvtnJYN4Qwont4lM2CHrg_CUSQOKf7w_wcB

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I use those of varying sizes, for all the new wiring I've done on the boat (bilge pump, solar etc). The LED indicator is very handy. Not bought them from Force 4 before though.


They are not the same, that's the whole point, they are superior.

 

I think Chubby means the continental fuses and wiring configuration photographed is the same as his current set up

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cheers NMEA

 

Ok . I think i maybe expressed myself poorly . I ve no doubt at all that the equipment you mention is of much higher quality & after looking at the link they do look more substantial .

I think my question as to thier " suitability " was due to my inexperience but i think i now understand .

Are you saying that the wires from the 3 new fuseholders would be twisted together , crimped with a connector to marry up to the thick red wire that comes into the eber fusebox & currently connects to the centre fuse ( as on BSP s photo - but on this photo the relevant wire is yellow ) .

Then crimp suitable connectors to the wires after the fuse to marry up to the connectors as at the bottom of BSP s photo , which look exactly the same as mine .

 

if ive understood , and the above is correct then i ll definately use the ones you recommend and it probably won t be that difficult ..... i think .

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. Not bought them from Force 4 before though.

Me either, I buy them in bulk and would make about 400% mark up if I sold them at Force 4 pricesbiggrin.png

cheers NMEA

 

Ok . I think i maybe expressed myself poorly . I ve no doubt at all that the equipment you mention is of much higher quality & after looking at the link they do look more substantial .

I think my question as to thier " suitability " was due to my inexperience but i think i now understand .

Are you saying that the wires from the 3 new fuseholders would be twisted together , crimped with a connector to marry up to the thick red wire that comes into the eber fusebox & currently connects to the centre fuse ( as on BSP s photo - but on this photo the relevant wire is yellow ) .

Then crimp suitable connectors to the wires after the fuse to marry up to the connectors as at the bottom of BSP s photo , which look exactly the same as mine .

 

if ive understood , and the above is correct then i ll definately use the ones you recommend and it probably won t be that difficult ..... i think .

The connections are correct, I would provide you with a large adhesive lined heat shrink crimp and three small ones to complete the job

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NMEA

 

You re a legend . I sent a PM to you .... if u don t receive it let me know . i bet it ll turn out to be a fuel problem !!

However , even if it is then these wiring upgrades need doing anyway . I m likely to be pretty reliant on this eber , for hot water mainly as i hate running the engine just for that . I hate running the engine fir battery charging too so i fitted solar .

 

Regarding Bizzards recommendations for altering the fuel supply . Is there any scope for fitting a seperate diesel tank ? Not very big , but there are two on ebay , one of which claims to be a genuine eberspacher part . But if it involves major work to install then id probably not do it .

I read of BSP s troubles with low standard & expensive workmanship recently which left me mortified and astonished that boatyards can deliver such shocking work . I ' d be more than happy to consider Bizzards recommendations but would have to find out the costs involved .

Bizzard - would you be able to suggest what kind of money i 'd need to make the alterations uou suggest . I realise you cannot do so accurately but a general idea - maybe a minimum of ? and possibly as much as ? sort of thing .

 

cheers again folks

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NMEA

 

You re a legend . I sent a PM to you .... if u don t receive it let me know . i bet it ll turn out to be a fuel problem !!

However , even if it is then these wiring upgrades need doing anyway . I m likely to be pretty reliant on this eber , for hot water mainly as i hate running the engine just for that . I hate running the engine fir battery charging too so i fitted solar .

 

Regarding Bizzards recommendations for altering the fuel supply . Is there any scope for fitting a seperate diesel tank ? Not very big , but there are two on ebay , one of which claims to be a genuine eberspacher part . But if it involves major work to install then id probably not do it .

I read of BSP s troubles with low standard & expensive workmanship recently which left me mortified and astonished that boatyards can deliver such shocking work . I ' d be more than happy to consider Bizzards recommendations but would have to find out the costs involved .

Bizzard - would you be able to suggest what kind of money i 'd need to make the alterations uou suggest . I realise you cannot do so accurately but a general idea - maybe a minimum of ? and possibly as much as ? sort of thing .

 

cheers again folks

Don't know your layout but if you were to obtain perhaps off ebay the same or equivalent fuel filter unit complete as the engines, that's the one that the Eber pipe connects to on your engine. It will contain a spare blanking plug bolt too to stop off the Weber pipe port on your engine filter. You will need a length of copper tubing to reach from the new filter unit to the stern end to wherever your going to connect it to. If the main engine fuel cock tap is close to the tank, then Tee into the outlet side of that tap, then the Ebers tap into the Tee's branch, the new pipe from the new filter unit fit into the new Eber taps outlet. You will need the odd adapter and reducer ect to connect up with to different size fittings. The online company B.E.S is the one to peruse for the pipe and fittings I've not looked up any prices but I'd guess at say around £70 including filter unit.

Edited by bizzard
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Chubby...

 

PM me..

 

Remind me again...location...?

Is it Southall ?

 

If I came out to you...do you have :

 

parking for my one car..?

 

Accomodation for me in a sleeping bag...?

 

the ability to buy me some beer..?

 

Bob

  • Greenie 1
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Hello again

 

ok . A few days back i met Mr NMEA , David & he put together the bits needed for replacing the crappy fuses . Much more substantial equipment so at least these are now sorted and were one of the strong recommendations so i ve done as i m told & replaced them .

Alas - it would appear this isn t an electrical problem so it must be fuel related and has most probably been caused by accident during the engine service .

 

NMEA mentioned that due to the fuel filter replacement there may be an airlock in the fuel line between the fuel pump & the heater so the dosing pump inside the eber cannot draw fuel thru .

Is there a way of checking this thats easy ? It would seem i m going to have to take this thing apart again and get to that poxy little thimble type filter and its beginning to crush my resolve .

I think the ebers winning !

If the good folk on here think its time to strip it down again then i ll do so but cannot for a few days due to work .

 

cheers again

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Ok

 

Can someone answer this question as part of testing my fuel line from engine fuel pump to eber possibly please .

On the fuel pump theres a " tap " .

IF crap got down the fuel line during the filter change then my guess would be that this twisty turney tap would be the first thing to check ?

 

If i shut the fuel cock off at the diesel tank , would this be a sensible first check ? ie - take it off , give it a clean out etc & replace & re coonect the 4mm fuel line .

 

Any thoughts gratefully received

cheers

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No need to pull it apart, if as you said when we met, the pump is ticking just disconnect the fuel line and arrange for some kind of suction to see if there is fuel there. If someone you know has a Pela for changing their oil they are ideal for the purpose, if not then a simple plastic tube long enough so you can see any diesel before you start drinking it and just suck.

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Cheers again NMEA

 

Theres no noise at all from the eber . The pumps doesn t click . I press the start button on the controller , the eber buzzes for 10 seconds max & shuts down .

 

All very dispiriting .

 

So if its a fuel problem then i'll use this piece of kit you mentioned . I disconnect the fuel line at the eber and .... well .... suck .

 

IF i fail to partake of the sweet taste of diesel then theres a blockage and at THAT point i 'd perhaps think of removing the " tap " at the fuel pump ?

 

Cheers again

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No, if the pump ain't ticking it's something electrical or internal, or even the pump, it would still tick if there was no fuel or a fuel blockage, unless a complete hydraulic lock on the pump output side.

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Cheers

 

i m beginning to get deflated now . Its beginning to sound expensive .

So , theres no way of checking now whats failing to work because its all internal parts - any of which may or may not be faulty .

Grim

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Well if you are deflated there's little hope for us less patient types. In the "electrical" possibilities there could be a poor connection in the loom somewhere so it is not certain yet there is an internal fault.

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